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  • Flush Wall-Mounted Raspberry Pi Touchscreen

    I am *about to* -- meaning that I'm still in the tinkering phase. The project is under-cabinet lighting using 5 SK6812 strips each controlled by a D1-Mini running WLED (that's the plan). There will be at least one wall-mounted remote control based on either an ESP32 or RPi0W. The remotes will have touch screens, probably something like this:https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-240X320-Resolution-...The boxes I found are this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FMVQ30And this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GZ89N0Oh, and this too, with a divider to separate 120V & low-voltage:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001XQ4JFCI assume that a bezel could be printed to mount the display and Pi/ESP that would cover the opening hiding the 120V outlet with USB power supply plugged into it. If the bezel is easily remov…

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    I am *about to* -- meaning that I'm still in the tinkering phase. The project is under-cabinet lighting using 5 SK6812 strips each controlled by a D1-Mini running WLED (that's the plan). There will be at least one wall-mounted remote control based on either an ESP32 or RPi0W. The remotes will have touch screens, probably something like this:https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-240X320-Resolution-...The boxes I found are this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FMVQ30And this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GZ89N0Oh, and this too, with a divider to separate 120V & low-voltage:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001XQ4JFCI assume that a bezel could be printed to mount the display and Pi/ESP that would cover the opening hiding the 120V outlet with USB power supply plugged into it. If the bezel is easily removable, the hidden power wiring is [probably] not a code violation (except in Australia where the Electricians Guild has convinced everyone that nobody but a licensed electrician can wire safely.)Now that I've documented all of this here, maybe I should write my own instructable?

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  • Flush Wall-Mounted Raspberry Pi Touchscreen

    I know it's been 3 years but I am about to do what @peter_3d did but came to a screeching halt with the code compliance aspect. Then you chimed in with the Arlington and Datacomm products and saved the day for me. Now I have a way of recessing my Pi into the wall and powering it safely. Thanks to both of you!

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  • CaptClaude commented on markjweaver's instructable A GARDEN NIGHTLIGHT
    A GARDEN NIGHTLIGHT

    Pressure treated wood contains chemicals which are toxic. Although PT wood no longer contains chromated copper arsenate (CCA), it does contain either copper or chromium. Cutting should be done in a well-ventilated area (dust) and you should always wash your hands after handling PT wood. Always predrill screw holes within ~1” (2.5cm) of the end of a board to prevent splitting (generally a good idea for all screw holes). Be sure to use the right fasteners for PT lumber. Use only screws or nails that are galvanized and designed for use with the newer copper-based pressure-treated wood.PT lumber is great and safe when handled and machined correctly.

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  • Walnut and Copper DIY Speakers

    You speak the truth. There is a reason the Klipsch originals had snap-on covers: protection without diffraction.

    I have been soldering for over half a century without safety glasses. Or an exhaust fan.

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  • Programmable Light Up Matrix Dress

    Boom.I think you have this figured out and are well on your way. Catching the "Everything is Better with LEDs" bug is a good thing. Well done and keep up the good work.Wait: One suggestion -- use an Adafruit dev board and post your project so they see it. They might just Tweet it and you will get some exposure!Also: I have less fear of LiIon batteries (as in "power banks") than others who have previously commented. The incidence of LiIon battery self-ignition is really vanishingly small and as long as you don't drive a nail through them, buy the absolute cheapest you can find in a market in China, or scavenge them from an off-brand hoverboard, you'll be OK. Pouches, not straps is a good idea, no need to choke off the blood to your feet for the Sake of your Art.I have …

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    Boom.I think you have this figured out and are well on your way. Catching the "Everything is Better with LEDs" bug is a good thing. Well done and keep up the good work.Wait: One suggestion -- use an Adafruit dev board and post your project so they see it. They might just Tweet it and you will get some exposure!Also: I have less fear of LiIon batteries (as in "power banks") than others who have previously commented. The incidence of LiIon battery self-ignition is really vanishingly small and as long as you don't drive a nail through them, buy the absolute cheapest you can find in a market in China, or scavenge them from an off-brand hoverboard, you'll be OK. Pouches, not straps is a good idea, no need to choke off the blood to your feet for the Sake of your Art.I have a faux fur coat with LED underlay on the back burner and this might just inspire me to move forward with it. Search for "LED VEST - FIRE ANIMATION" and "LED VEST - GENERATIVE PLASMA" on Vimeo to see what I have in mind.One more thing: check out the FastLED library -- it's a) very fast; b) very well supported; and c) has a huge, highly supportive user base (there is a reddit group you should join for inspiration, as have I). You can get effects like the ones in the videos mentioned above with FastLED.

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  • Using Loops in Tinkercad to Design a Bursting Star

    Very cool. With a little tinkering, I made something I will 3D print for Christmas!

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      • The TRUTH About the Nrf24L01 Transceiver
      • RFM69 / Arduino Pro Mini Having Lively Discussion  With JeeLink
      • Digital Photo Picture Frame, WiFi Linked – Raspberry Pi
      • HQ Music Player and Internet Radio With Smartphone Control – Raspberry Pi, PCM5102A, Node-RED
      • Broken Earphones to Your Most Treasured Pair for 99p and Some Easy Soldering
  • Beautiful. Exposed mitered corners of baltic birch ply have always been one of my favorite looks. Been toying with various bike stands but I like this as it's a way to get the bike up off the floor and supported front and rear. As audreyobscura says, the sprocket handles are a great idea, but I can't imagine having to *buy* old chainrings. I have several I can't seem to throw away (although they are worn out) and could get more at my LBS just by asking to go through their trash.

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  • You have done the universe a service by pointing out that previously unknown tool, the Duststopper. It's cheap enough to get one to try and decide how to adapt your idea for a cart. I say adapt because where my Shop vac lives (and i LOVE the eyes) is under the right wing of my table saw and I can't stack like you have. But I can do something else...I've tried other cyclone add-ons and had very mixed success -- mostly because they did not adapt to the top of the bucket well. This was designed to go on the bucket and that's huge.Thank you for doing this. Well done you.

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  • Very nice work! Love the attention to detail. Exact same principle as the one I built for my ghastly relic of a bandsaw (Ryobi BS-50B) but you spent more time making yours than I did. Nevertheless, I learned something here for when I get a PROPER bandsaw (jealous!).

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  • I shall follow your investigations and progress in this new and exciting field with great interest for I agree with you that Galvanic Energy is the One True Future and Best Hope for Mankind. Perhaps I shall also begin to experiment with Luminiferous Aether as well. The possibilities seem endless.Yr Obvt Svt,Capt. Claude Rotier, 2nd U.S. Volunteer Engineers, Retired

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  • Thank the Gods that there are still those who dwell amongst us, possessed as it were, of a sense of humor and the ability to write long and detailed scholarly (albeit experimental) texts with the tongue planted firmly in the cheek. Bless you, Sir, and may the Shenanigans be with you always.

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      • Turning Recycled Skateboards Into a Bluetooth Boombox
      • DIY White Concrete Table W/ Live-Edge Maple Inlay
      • Rings of Saturn LED Music Visualizing Pendant Light
  • For me, the takeaway is not necessarily the thing itself (as cool as it is) but rather 1) the techniques used to make it; and 2) the things that went into it.I had NO IDEA that there was a wireless charging module you could buy. That opens up all kinds of doors for me. Epoxy? Some day I'll do something cool with it too.Most excellent project and wonderfully documented. Keep up the good work.

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  • Boom. Well done, 10 out of 10. And with snow on the ground no less.My next deck is going to use the Titan Deck Foot. No digging, no cement (and I am not affiliated, just impressed -- have a friend who used them).

    Local codes set the depth the posts must go ("frost heave", note snow on the ground) as well as the method of supporting the posts. I was a bit surprised to see only gravel (not cement) but her local codes must allow it. When you consider that the force is all down and there does not seem to be a roof, gravel makes perfect sense OK. When you chisel out (mortise) the post to accept the joists, yes, there is a loss of strength of that post. But you add strength back in when you add the joists and screw them into place.Given her attention to detail (and that the video in out there for everyone to see), my money is on her having checked every requirement twice and built to more than the minimum. She has it right.

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      • Wireless Bicycle Mounted Bluetooth Speaker
      • DIY Bluetooth Boombox Speaker | HOW TO
      • INSANELY Loud 150W Bluetooth Speaker Boombox
  • I really like this -- not so much for the particular design but for the completeness, finishing and attention to detail. I have some experience with bike-mounted speakers (I'm not in the UK so those ridiculous laws don't apply to me) for group rides like Critical Mass.

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  • CaptClaude commented on AllisonC74's instructable Power Loader Cosplay

    Simply Wonderful. Full marks and advance to the next round!!

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  • Beautiful. Your 3D printer is REALLY well dialed-in. Yet another inspiration.

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  • As you correctly point out, IBM regularly changes how their stuff works on a regular basis. As of November 2018, they have a free option that allows you do do some interesting stuff. Having said that, it appears to be up to me to create an update. The attached screenshot shows environmental data from a BME280 sensor connected to a Raspberry Pi Zero W running Node Red pushing data to the Node Red dashboard provided in the IBM Bluemix platform. The next step of course is control. And I will need to make some gold shoes now...

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      • Tweet Your Shoes to Change Colour
      • Connect Your Thing to the Cloud for Less Than £4.
  • Your description of the techniques used was very enlightening. Nice work!

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  • Simply Freaking Awesome. Job well done.

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  • CaptClaude commented on helgrind's instructable CheerLightbridge

    A fantastic example of "Everything I Want To Do Has Already Been Done By Someone Smarter". Been playing with NodeRed and talking to Andy Stanford-Clark on Twitter about moving away from the direct Twitter feed and to other IoT feeds that don't require a Twitter developer account -- which is when I found iot.eclipse.org... I've done Raspberry Pi DMX for a project and thought it would be fun to light the house with LED PAR cans driven by NR & Cheerlights. While searching for something else, I found you'd already done it! Well done. And thanks for sharing.

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  • You are the bomb. I know the joy of teaching what you are good at and love. I do it too. Thanks.

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  • I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that the answer to both of those questions is yes. The RPi would make the code easier because you could to it in Python and debugging is easier. I did an escape room prop with a mag latch and a Zero W. Be sure you isolate the mag latch from the RPi with a relay or something.

    Been wondering that myself!

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  • CaptClaude commented on khinds10's instructable Magic Mirror

    Don't forget the 2-way wrist TV! That's what inspired the Apple watch (sort of).

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  • They have a very nice robot-vibe about them. And I'm curious about how you calculated the volume too...

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  • Boom. Just exactly what I have been wanting to do. I've been playing with Node-Red for other purposes (controlling an RPi) and this is right up that alley. Been wondering about N-R on an iPhone but realize now that I was thinking entirely wrong -- N-R is on the RPi and not on the phone (duh). Thanks for pulling all of this together (although it's kinda too bad that we have to do everything for both Mac & PC -- and I am bilingual in that respect) and making it easy.

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  • Ms. Stern, you are the Bomb and I truly enjoy your work. How do I say this without sounding like a sexist pig? There should be WomanMakers like you (and LadyAda) to inspire our Daughters and Sons (and us). On and off is good, but I want to see Alexa/Echo control Neopixels...

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  • Excellent & inspiring (as usual).I'm curious about the design and construction of your low-height drawers as I've had a need for those for some time. The video makes the design and construction more or less clear (dovetails, wooden slides, etc.), but what material did you use for the drawer bottoms? How thick?Keep up the good work.

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  • Still waiting for your update!I know how busy people can get so we're being patient out here.Thanks!

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      • Super Bright Tunable Led Light Panels
      • DIY Desk Organization System W/ Hutch
      • Concrete 3 Watt LED Light W/ Walnut & Balloons!
  • Not sure why that comment posted twice and even more not sure why it took me so long to see that it had posted twice and delete the second one.

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  • Seek and ye shall find. The Tactix organizers (which Bunnings misspells as "Taxtix" on their website) are available in the US at Cabela's (a hunting-fishing-boating store chain) and other retailers. However, they are much more expensive here (NZD 6.98, about USD 5 to USD 11 - 20, depending where you look).PS: I like your idea, just need to find the right cases!

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  • Wonderful. Caught my eye immediately because I have been looking for something to put over a kitchen counter currently lit (poorly) by a ceiling fluorescent. The lamp shades you showcase here would be perfect for that and your emphasis on a High-CRI LED led me to look for others that are not quite so $$$$. On the subject of wiring, yes, an electrician would cringe and a code inspector probably tell you to pull it down, but your use of hi-temp wire was correct. Did you consider silicon insulated wire? It is flexible, 200C temperature-resistant and has a 300Vac dielectric rating. It comes in assorted gauges -- the 24AWG is rated at 5A.About half way through reading this I thought "why not re-purpose some cymbals??". I could do a pair of hi-hat cymbals and maybe a smaller cra…

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    Wonderful. Caught my eye immediately because I have been looking for something to put over a kitchen counter currently lit (poorly) by a ceiling fluorescent. The lamp shades you showcase here would be perfect for that and your emphasis on a High-CRI LED led me to look for others that are not quite so $$$$. On the subject of wiring, yes, an electrician would cringe and a code inspector probably tell you to pull it down, but your use of hi-temp wire was correct. Did you consider silicon insulated wire? It is flexible, 200C temperature-resistant and has a 300Vac dielectric rating. It comes in assorted gauges -- the 24AWG is rated at 5A.About half way through reading this I thought "why not re-purpose some cymbals??". I could do a pair of hi-hat cymbals and maybe a smaller crash to cover the length of the counter. Well done. (The thing I like most about Instructables is that it's such a great source of ideas, inspiration and jumping off points.)

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  • What kind of cases are you using? I've never seen ones like that.

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  • I like that you note what didn't work as well as what did work. I'm going to try to follow your lead and try this with a more "generic" HM-10 (CC2541 chip) connected to an Arduino nano clone. I failed to do my homework and first bought the HC-06 module but discovered that iOS devices cannot see it. As with all things from China, the trouble is in finding the documentation. Thanks for the great Ible. I wish more were as complete as this.

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  • Hey Naevus: I really like your version of the project, even reading it through google translate. There are parts that are perfectly clear and parts that are very, very funny (not your fault of course). I'm going to see what I can learn from your version. I agree that putting a Nano and an ESP together is overkill considering that the ESP is much more powerful. But maybe it made the project easier?

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  • I bought an ex-ambulance VW bus in Germany in about 1986, converted it to a camper and drove it all over norther Europe for several years before returning to the States. We had to remove the divider between the cab and cargo area (and add seat belt mounting points per German law). The kitchen was built to be removable so we could use it on a daily basis. It was very simple and compact and slept two adults and three small children more-or-less comfortably. Didn't have enough insulation for camping in Norway though...

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  • I did enjoy this and I think your breakdown of the types of strips and pixels is both useful and concise.

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