Dangerously Explosive

Amazingly well done. Have you considered making a motorized version? That would definitely be something I would like to make.

Very cool. I really like the LEDs, I'll definitely be making my own version once I get a 3D printer. Thanks for sharing!

Very well done. Nice use of orange LEDs.

I always like these projects with the glowing bits and fluorescence... I should stop torturing myself looking at things I know I don't have the tools to build :-) . But still, very well done.

Oh yeah, the green LEDs definitely do the trick, especially on the brass finish.

I love the lights in the eyes. Very well done!

Darn, now I want one. Very well done, I especially like the green one.

Very nice. Wouldn't it look a bit pure steampunk with a warm white LED, though? Perhaps an orange or yellow? The white is a bit brilliant and looks a little too modern in my opinion.

Very cool. Any idea what each of the bulbs are called? Like, part numbers/types?

Amazing. I always wanted to know how to do the liquid light thing (there are a couple versions on Pinterest) and this is the first good how-to I found. Thanks!

Very nice. It would be very cool if you made the goggles flip-down or slide-down so you could actually use them on windy days.

Amazingly well done, but the description of each step is a bit lacking. Would be cool if you put LED lights and a smoke/fog maker in the engines.

Beautiful. Absolutely beautiful. Would be cool if it auto-adjusted to light levels, maybe with Arduino?

You're welcome. Thank you for the comment. X-Acto knives are pretty cheap, less than $10 for a decent set, but you could also use a box knife or a utility knife if you have either of those.

I've never gotten my CA glue to the point where it will cure, I'm too impatient. Mine supposedly has a 30 second dry time (and an additional 2 hours to full strength) but I gave up trying to get it to stick after about 5 minutes. Works fine for anything else, but not cardboard.

Nice. I did something similar a while back for a presentation. Mine was hot pink and bronze, and had LEDs down the side.

Thanks for the comment and the tips!

The best version for seeing through utilizes Arduino and Neopixel rings, but I agree that the best look is worn on the forehead or on a top hat.

I like the coiled wire on the sides. Too bad making it a tesla coil would destroy the music quality from the speakers...

Beautiful aesthetics. Well done, my friend!

Brilliant. Just brilliant. I'm thinking of doing something similar, except with moving gears and a wire wrapped body.

Thanks! Glad to know there are other cardboard enthusiasts as crazy as I am!

Yup, I've literally got closets and a basement full of the stuff from when I moved, and Amazon doesn't make it easy to run out, either. Thanks for the vote and comment!

Thanks! The trick for bends is to cut on the outside of the bend, through both the top layer and the corrugation but not the bottom layer, and then glue paper of some sort on top of the bend to make it sturdier an more professional looking. Hope that helps, and Happy Making!

You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks! I appreciate your concern, it is well founded. I too have had a few slips, fortunately nothing major. It may seem from the pictures that I use improper caution, but that's because I've got the knife posed (I already finished that cut) and am using my other hand to take a picture.

I just use a cheap $20 iron I got from a local craft store. The quality is decent, but I agree a more expensive iron might work better. The real trick is getting the temp settings right for the glue, if possible. I think that might be part of why the black glue works better, because the thermal properties are more optimal. Hope the sandpaper works as much magic for you as it does for me!

Sure. Just look up 'tin can forge' here on Instructables or on YouTube, and all you really need is a tin can, plaster, sand, and a source of flammable gas. There are lots of ways to make your own DIY forge for a lot less than the price of getting a new one.

Cool idea for a robotic piggy bank! I like the simplicity of this one.

I always loved the look of these tables, but the color mixing in yours takes it to a whole new level. Too bad I don't have the tools or supplies to make one...

Very nice presentation and pictures! I like how the end product turns out!

Oh! That's interesting! I usually think of polyvinyl acetate as those bottles of glue in hardware stores labeled as "PA Glue". None of the stores around where I am have them, and I honestly haven't seen a bottle of the stuff in years.

Yes, I have used it as well. I don't use it very often, though, so I decided to leave it out of this Instructable. I suppose it does have some nice stiffening qualities, and in many ways is just a heavy duty Elmer's glue.

Also, in reply to your tip, I have never tried using a polyvinyl acetate, nor do I have easy access to any, so it would be kind of hard for me to seriously recommend it as a good glue to use. I'll look into it for future projects, though!

Indeed. Unfortunately it is one of the only materials I have available to work with... Needless to say, that has forced me to become a bit more creative with it, and is probably the only reason I ever learned any of these pro tips. Alls well that ends well, I suppose.

Thanks!

Glad I could be of help!

I think a better title might be "Gluten-Free Edible Play-Dough", because I honestly couldn't tell it was edible until I read the Intro. Maybe add that to the thumbnail? Other than that, great 'Ible.

Absolutely, so long as you use the right voltage or change the resistor to avoid frying the LEDs. You could even use an old USB cable to power it if you have one laying about. All you really need is a power source and a corresponding plug that you can attach to the sign. Good luck and happy making!

Thanks!

Yeah, sorry about that. I'm working on creating schematics, I'll have them up as soon as I finish them. As far as the potentiometer, any value should work fine as long as it starts from zero or thereabouts. I tested mine with both a 10k and a 5k trimmer pot, and both worked fine, although the 5k only allowed for half of the available range. The standard pot for use with an Arduino is a 10k rotary pot, and that is what I wrote the code for, but adjustments can be made for any value range. Let me know if you have any questions, and happy making!

Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions when you do!

Nice Project!These would make good piggy banks (no joke intended on the pig's part) because they are hollow. I would have used 1/4 inch MDF though, to make them a bit lighter weight (and increase storage capacity). The creeper design you have is very nicely done, I might think of using it to upgrade the housing on my creeper sentry. All in all, very well done.

Adding hot glue or tape to hold the jar could be a bad idea, as the high heat would melt it. Something like JB Weld or high heat silicone would be a better choice.