Dangerously Explosive

If the paint and polyurethane stick, then it will work. I think this method is pretty universal for smoothing just about anything, I used to use a very similar method while staining and finishing wood.

Y'all know that the PLA is "toxic", too, right? In the right quantities, anything can be. The point of the project is to show an easy way to smooth PLA with readily available materials, without the need for anything other than a backing surface (to keep the paint off everything else) and perhaps a fan. It is less labor intensive than sanding, and some would argue that sanding creates toxic PLA micro-particles that could potentially damage your respiratory system if inhaled. So really, toxicity has nothing to do with it (as far as the point goes), but rather this project is about reducing labor and pointing out easily accessible everyday fixes for a common problem so that everyone can get slightly higher quality prints.

Mine flicker as well, and I think that is simply due to the frequency at which the LEDs operate. Even dim-able overhead lighting does it, because it is essentially flashing on and off very quickly, appearing dim, but occasionally our eyes will detect the 'off' cycle, making it appear to flicker. So I don't really think that this is a problem, and I have no idea what I could do to fix it even if it was. As for the rev2.0 I'm still having trouble configuring the interrupts, but I'll post it here as soon as I get it working.

Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful and not too dry!

Cool project, and nice use of 3D printing to add aesthetics as well as function. So many people just make a boring design that fulfills a function, but has no good aesthetic qualities, but you seem to have gone the extra mile. Kudos for that! As the other person said, I really like the Wall-E eyes. Just wondering, but did you intentionally name your robot the same as I named mine? (ROB: The Ultimate R/C NeoPixel/WS2812B LED Display Platform) I don't think you did (nor do I particularly care, it wasn't very original in the first place), but it's just kind of funny to think that my robot now has a twin...

Alright, I published a version of it. It ended up a lot more diesel-punk and a bit less flamboyant than expected, and after some fiddling I rejected the idea of moving gears and switched over to a "tank" design. I might try again in the future when I have a proper welding kit, and do something a bit more coppery and bronze. Here's the link:https://www.instructables.com/id/Recycled-Pocket-S...Oh, and I did credit you as part of my inspiration, I hope you don't mind... :-)

I mention this in Step 3. The first button on Analog pin A1 switches the operating mode. The second button has no function. In the original iteration it changed the color of the lights in Standby Mode, but that function introduced numerous bugs and glitches so I removed it in the final version. You actually only need one button to make this project work. If you want to spend some time on it, you could develop your own bit of code to give the second button a function, but I found that the processor on the Uno can only take so many commands at once and when you start adding more it slows down other functions like distance alerts and tracking.

I found mine in the hardware section of a local shop. It was 75 cents (EUR) for a pack of 8 long sticks, same price per volume as the clear stuff. I never looked for it on Amazon, though. With a quick search for "black hot glue" I came up with these, which I think are decently priced per volume:https://www.amazon.com/Mangocore-11mmx190mm-Sticks...https://www.amazon.com/Sticks-Gliston-Paintless-Re...https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diameter-Crafting-Mo...Black hot glue does seem to be more expensive, but that is to be expected as there are additional compounds in the glue making it black, and if I'm right about it working better, that makes it more proprietary compared to the clear stuff.

Thanks for the comment and tips! The stiffening trick with glue is always good, but I don't use it much so I didn't include it this time around. Yes, waterproofing cardboard is quite tricky, the problem is that over time paints and sealants tend to wear out, and the cardboard will become soggy if even a little leak occurs, which means you have to replace most of it to avoid mold, mildew, and other water-related problems like warping. I mentioned above in the questions about the fiberglass, that's the only method I've consistently seen work over long time periods with little problems.

Amazingly well done. Have you considered making a motorized version? That would definitely be something I would like to make.

Very cool. I really like the LEDs, I'll definitely be making my own version once I get a 3D printer. Thanks for sharing!

Very well done. Nice use of orange LEDs.

I always like these projects with the glowing bits and fluorescence... I should stop torturing myself looking at things I know I don't have the tools to build :-) . But still, very well done.

Oh yeah, the green LEDs definitely do the trick, especially on the brass finish.

I love the lights in the eyes. Very well done!

Darn, now I want one. Very well done, I especially like the green one.

Very nice. Wouldn't it look a bit pure steampunk with a warm white LED, though? Perhaps an orange or yellow? The white is a bit brilliant and looks a little too modern in my opinion.

Very cool. Any idea what each of the bulbs are called? Like, part numbers/types?

Amazing. I always wanted to know how to do the liquid light thing (there are a couple versions on Pinterest) and this is the first good how-to I found. Thanks!

Very nice. It would be very cool if you made the goggles flip-down or slide-down so you could actually use them on windy days.

Amazingly well done, but the description of each step is a bit lacking. Would be cool if you put LED lights and a smoke/fog maker in the engines.

Beautiful. Absolutely beautiful. Would be cool if it auto-adjusted to light levels, maybe with Arduino?

You're welcome. Thank you for the comment. X-Acto knives are pretty cheap, less than $10 for a decent set, but you could also use a box knife or a utility knife if you have either of those.

I've never gotten my CA glue to the point where it will cure, I'm too impatient. Mine supposedly has a 30 second dry time (and an additional 2 hours to full strength) but I gave up trying to get it to stick after about 5 minutes. Works fine for anything else, but not cardboard.

Nice. I did something similar a while back for a presentation. Mine was hot pink and bronze, and had LEDs down the side.

Thanks for the comment and the tips!

The best version for seeing through utilizes Arduino and Neopixel rings, but I agree that the best look is worn on the forehead or on a top hat.

I like the coiled wire on the sides. Too bad making it a tesla coil would destroy the music quality from the speakers...

Beautiful aesthetics. Well done, my friend!

Brilliant. Just brilliant. I'm thinking of doing something similar, except with moving gears and a wire wrapped body.

Thanks! Glad to know there are other cardboard enthusiasts as crazy as I am!

Yup, I've literally got closets and a basement full of the stuff from when I moved, and Amazon doesn't make it easy to run out, either. Thanks for the vote and comment!

Thanks! The trick for bends is to cut on the outside of the bend, through both the top layer and the corrugation but not the bottom layer, and then glue paper of some sort on top of the bend to make it sturdier an more professional looking. Hope that helps, and Happy Making!

You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks! I appreciate your concern, it is well founded. I too have had a few slips, fortunately nothing major. It may seem from the pictures that I use improper caution, but that's because I've got the knife posed (I already finished that cut) and am using my other hand to take a picture.

I just use a cheap $20 iron I got from a local craft store. The quality is decent, but I agree a more expensive iron might work better. The real trick is getting the temp settings right for the glue, if possible. I think that might be part of why the black glue works better, because the thermal properties are more optimal. Hope the sandpaper works as much magic for you as it does for me!

Sure. Just look up 'tin can forge' here on Instructables or on YouTube, and all you really need is a tin can, plaster, sand, and a source of flammable gas. There are lots of ways to make your own DIY forge for a lot less than the price of getting a new one.

Cool idea for a robotic piggy bank! I like the simplicity of this one.

I always loved the look of these tables, but the color mixing in yours takes it to a whole new level. Too bad I don't have the tools or supplies to make one...

Very nice presentation and pictures! I like how the end product turns out!

Oh! That's interesting! I usually think of polyvinyl acetate as those bottles of glue in hardware stores labeled as "PA Glue". None of the stores around where I am have them, and I honestly haven't seen a bottle of the stuff in years.

Yes, I have used it as well. I don't use it very often, though, so I decided to leave it out of this Instructable. I suppose it does have some nice stiffening qualities, and in many ways is just a heavy duty Elmer's glue.

Also, in reply to your tip, I have never tried using a polyvinyl acetate, nor do I have easy access to any, so it would be kind of hard for me to seriously recommend it as a good glue to use. I'll look into it for future projects, though!

Indeed. Unfortunately it is one of the only materials I have available to work with... Needless to say, that has forced me to become a bit more creative with it, and is probably the only reason I ever learned any of these pro tips. Alls well that ends well, I suppose.

Thanks!

Glad I could be of help!