Tell us about yourself!

Complete Your Profile
  • Scrap Cart  From a Single Plywood Sheet (w/ Plans!)

    "Wire lath screws" instead of "Wire lathe screws"?

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on aglepetsos01's instructable Homemade Pontoon Boat5 months ago
    Homemade Pontoon Boat

    If you are looking to make it more modular and easier to breakdown and reassemble, I'd consider learning a few good knots and using rope to fasten the barrels to the frame. Rope or strapping could be more corrosion-resistant and more field serviceable than deck screws.

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on aglepetsos01's instructable Homemade Pontoon Boat5 months ago
    Homemade Pontoon Boat

    If you moved the barrels out to the ends and away from the center, you'd still have the same buoyancy but you'd have a more stability on the ends

    Regarding the miter joints on the corners-- you'd be better off with butt joints. Glued miter joints are a bit stronger than glued butts, but with only screws and not glue, you can get more meat and more screws into a butt joint. Just cut two of your 10-foots 3" shorter and you can still have the same dimensions.If you want to get fancier and a bit stronger, try a half-lap joint.

    View Instructable »
  • Angle Set Up Gauges for Grinders and Belt Sanders

    My tip about trig was really two things: First for fixturing: If you lay out a line parallel to the intended edge and drill a couple 1/4" holes along the line, you could temporarily put a couple 1/4" pins in the holes and run them against a straight edge or fence to cut or finish sand the edge.Second, if you can find a trig table of 'Tan' versus angle, you could multiply tan(angle) * length between holes to get rise between holes. For example, tan(70 degrees) = 2.747477, so you could make an 8" wide 70 degree angle by making a mark, going over 8" and going up 21.98" Or you could do it backwards and divide-- with a 24" carpenter's square, 24"/2.747477 = 8.735" out on the outside of the short leg would be 70 degrees. See https://www.instructabl...

    see more »

    My tip about trig was really two things: First for fixturing: If you lay out a line parallel to the intended edge and drill a couple 1/4" holes along the line, you could temporarily put a couple 1/4" pins in the holes and run them against a straight edge or fence to cut or finish sand the edge.Second, if you can find a trig table of 'Tan' versus angle, you could multiply tan(angle) * length between holes to get rise between holes. For example, tan(70 degrees) = 2.747477, so you could make an 8" wide 70 degree angle by making a mark, going over 8" and going up 21.98" Or you could do it backwards and divide-- with a 24" carpenter's square, 24"/2.747477 = 8.735" out on the outside of the short leg would be 70 degrees. See https://www.instructables.com/id/Get-accurate-angles-without-a-protractor/ for some tangent trig ratios on a carpenter's square.Taken together, if you can work out the trig, and measure over and up, you could drill some fixturing holes in from your corners a bit and be able to cut, check and re-finish your angles very accurately.

    Try some trig to lay out a couple holes at the proper angle, and you can use pins/drill rod through the holes to fixture the part for cutting, trimming and re-finishing extremely accurately. With trig, you can lay out accurate angles with large baselines without even a protractor at hand.

    View Instructable »
  • Sonicare FlexCare - Tighten Metal Shaft

    I didn't figure out the second screw -- I got enough out of sort of bending it and working the first screw.

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on Tiedeken's instructable Radius Cutting on the Lathe - Quick Way7 months ago
    Radius Cutting on the Lathe - Quick Way

    Making & using radiused form tools is pretty cool.I followed the headline to here looking for a 'radius bar' to do larger arcs. I eventually found a cool article in the December 1958 popular mechanics (pages 193-196) which had good pics.Basically, you make a double-pointed bar of the radius you want, (they suggest it works for 3" radius minimum) and use it as a spacer between the cross-slide and the tailstock or headstock. Then you keep light pressure with the feed wheel against the radius bar as you traverse with the cross-slide, letting the radius bar control the path. The pics at PM are good--then ends of the pointed radius bar fit into shallow holes drilled into your cross-slide and tailstock, or they also suggest making a wooden pivot block with a hole to clamp to the be...

    see more »

    Making & using radiused form tools is pretty cool.I followed the headline to here looking for a 'radius bar' to do larger arcs. I eventually found a cool article in the December 1958 popular mechanics (pages 193-196) which had good pics.Basically, you make a double-pointed bar of the radius you want, (they suggest it works for 3" radius minimum) and use it as a spacer between the cross-slide and the tailstock or headstock. Then you keep light pressure with the feed wheel against the radius bar as you traverse with the cross-slide, letting the radius bar control the path. The pics at PM are good--then ends of the pointed radius bar fit into shallow holes drilled into your cross-slide and tailstock, or they also suggest making a wooden pivot block with a hole to clamp to the bed. Also, the compound slide is set parallel to the ways, so you can use the compound slide to take deeper and deeper cuts.

    You could use the same procedure, just pivot your form tool so the center axis of the radius is perpendicular to the ways.

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on Naran's instructable Cheapest Smart Home for $389 months ago
    Cheapest Smart Home for $38

    Visually, the "RF sockets" look like Etekcity devices, available on amazon for $30 for a kit of 5 sockets and 2 handheld transmitters. Over at https://www.samkear.com/hardware/control-power-out... it says you can get a compatible 433MHz transmitter/receiver kit for about $5 ($6.66 SMAKN kit from Amazon). Amazon says the SMAKN thing is ASK/OOK modulation. There looks like a lot of meat on that other blog entry.

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on BR00KSM3T4L's instructable Sub Centimeter GPS With RTKLIB9 months ago
    Sub Centimeter GPS With RTKLIB

    The RTKLIB program `conv2bin rover.ubx` file can convert files into RINEX files: $ bin/convbin rover_20171211T165315.ubxinput file: rover_20171211T165315.ubx (u-blox)->rinex obs : rover_20171211T165315.obs->rinex nav : rover_20171211T165315.nav->rinex gnav: rover_20171211T165315.gnav->rinex hnav: rover_20171211T165315.hnav->rinex qnav: rover_20171211T165315.qnav->rinex lnav: rover_20171211T165315.lnav->rinex cnav: rover_20171211T165315.cnav->rinex inav: rover_20171211T165315.inav->sbas log: rover_20171211T165315.sbs2017/12/11 16:53:36-12/11 23:54:54: O=25279 N=50 G=102 H=75 L=88 S=13470$

    I've only got one ublox-M8T, and I was eventually able to get it to report some sub-centimeter scale positions referenced to a CORS station, but that was including averaging over a long, stationary time. I liked the http://rtkexplorer.com/ stuff for guidance. I eventually got it working under Wine on OSX, communicating with the M8t and finally getting fixes. The big tricks for me was using the updated 2.4.3 and rtkexplorer demo5 code which actually decoded the M8T messages, then figuring out how to turn on some monitors/logs (tiny box just above the RTKNAVI Start button) and see where it might be having problems.

    View Instructable »
  • Arduino Bathroom Scale With 50 Kg Load Cells and HX711 Amplifier

    The coloring/configuration of the half-bridge cell wires if very important. They are different in several of your pictures. The wires on the cells pictured in step 2 (W-R-B) don't match the cells in the schematic (B-W-R). The wiring on the cells in the different panels of the step 1 pic differ from each other.If you don't drive and sense on the center taps of the half-bridges, the circuit would have half the sensitivity of https://arduino.stackexchange.com/a/18698/6628 configuration since your wheatstone bridge would exist between the cell's center terminals, and then be attenuated from each node of the wheatstone bridge into the HX711 by the variable resistance of the strain gauge.To make sure you get it right, be sure to figure out which two terminals on the load cells have the ...

    see more »

    The coloring/configuration of the half-bridge cell wires if very important. They are different in several of your pictures. The wires on the cells pictured in step 2 (W-R-B) don't match the cells in the schematic (B-W-R). The wiring on the cells in the different panels of the step 1 pic differ from each other.If you don't drive and sense on the center taps of the half-bridges, the circuit would have half the sensitivity of https://arduino.stackexchange.com/a/18698/6628 configuration since your wheatstone bridge would exist between the cell's center terminals, and then be attenuated from each node of the wheatstone bridge into the HX711 by the variable resistance of the strain gauge.To make sure you get it right, be sure to figure out which two terminals on the load cells have the highest resistance between them (E.g. Black and White, to match your schematic), wire them in a big color matching loop, like B-B W-W B-B W-W and then excite (E+/E-) two opposite center taps (R) and sense (A+/A-) on the other pair of center taps.

    View Instructable »
  • Control WeMo Switch With Arduino+Ethernet Shield

    Grrr -- point your browser to the wemoipaddress:port/setup.xml file for its capabilities.

    Thanks,I found http://www.makermusings.com/2015/07/13/amazon-echo... as some info on the discovery and communication protocols used by the Wemo stuff. They use uPnP and SOAP. If you want to see what the switch advertises it can do, try http://www.makermusings.com/2015/07/13/amazon-echo...

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on Wood Yogi's instructable Marking Gauge for Woodworking1 year ago
    Marking Gauge for Woodworking

    Cool. I needed one of these just a couple days ago and I think I'll make this one. I think I'll probably file only the inner edge of the allen wrench, leaving the outer edge at 90 degrees, so I can set and mark flush to an external surface,

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 11 Unusual Uses for Coffee1 year ago
    11 Unusual Uses for Coffee

    Try some ground coffee as an ice cream topping. Yum!

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on timberanew's instructable Portable Benchtop Spring Pole Lathe1 year ago
    Portable Benchtop Spring Pole Lathe

    Awesome project. I was just thinking about a string pole late I saw in Branson Missouri about 35 years ago. I love the use of bungee elastic in lieu of the greenwood sapling.Maybe try a skinnier piece of scrap for the toolrest-crosspiece. The one in the pics looks too wide and would limit the ways you can vary to position and angles the chisels or gouges with respect to the workpiece.

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on carpespasm's instructable Make Your Own Geta Sandles1 year ago
    Make Your Own Geta Sandles

    The archived javascript didn't work for me, but they have a non-java set of percentages at https://web.archive.org/web/20080101130044/http://www.egeorgeonline.com/getapage/nojava.html (the javascript looks like it only does proportions anyway)

    View Instructable »
  • Measure The Moisture Content Of Your Firewood With A Multimeter

    The Forest Service pub is at http://www.treesearch.fs.fed.us/pubs/9823 and the table is on page 4 (or between pages 3 & 4)

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on Kester1's instructable Arduino: CNC Machine / Part 21 year ago
    Arduino: CNC Machine / Part 2

    Looks like the bars would deflect about 0.003" per pound of force in the middle. How much does the belt stretch?

    View Instructable »
  • The Best Dang Butterbeer Outside of Hogsmeade

    So, metric-wise, the drink is 2L cream soda, 75ml butterscotch syrup, and 5ml butter extract, plus a topping of 1L marshmallow fluff, 1L whipping cream, 15ml powdered sugar, and 18ml of rum extract.

    View Instructable »
  • DavidF15 commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer2 years ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    No, endstops are not necessary. You jog to the center of the board, set the nozzle to a paper-thickness above the board, and send a "G92 X0 Y0 Z0.01, you can set the coordinates just fine. If the printer is accurate, and the slicer is set to match the build area, you really don't need them.

    View Instructable »