Tell us about yourself!
I have read the list of uses for vinegar, many years ago. I've tried it for rust and there were no results. I tired it for weeds and results there were lacking also. Maybe the recipe wasn't any good. There seem to be tons of recipes for weed killer that includes vinegar. I know it's good for cleaning windows and especially cleaning soap scum and chlorinated water spots and buildup in and around the water faucets and also in the shower head. The list is available online all the time, but it comes around, and is widely circulated, every generation as a 'money saver' and as a newly found 'discovery' and as an attention getter.
WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed WD-40 back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion -- a task which is done by displacing water.
Here's the video I was referring to:Easiest and most complete way to remove rust. Turnn it on before bed and clean by morning.
I have to wonder why if WD-40 stands for Water Dispersant, how it ever got going that it's a 'rust buster', and penetrant for rusty parts. Worst thing is it evaporsates.JB-80 Is an actual lubricant that never dries. Does the same work as actual oil, but isn't near as thick, so it can penetrate.
That may have been my problem. The person I got the info from amde no distinction.
Here's the video I was referring to: Easiest and most complete way to remove rust. Turnn it on before bed and clean by morning.
Never thought of that. But wouldn't the only chemical reaction be between the vinegar and the soda?
I'll have to stock up soon!!
I tied vinegar as a rust remover a couple of times and it had no affect. No matter how long I soaked it.You can make your own rust remover using a battery charger and a tub of water.It works FANTASTIC! Especially for items like screen and very small parts.Look for it on the web. Maybe youtube would have a video about it.
It also removes silicone seal. It just needs to soak awhile and the silicone will peal right up. When replacing the silicone, be certain the surface is absolutely clean of the WD before putting on new silicone or it will peal up also.
Good idea. I have to get some of that cheaper than the stick on film.
Yes, so do many other things, but with out removing the oxidation, it'll dry too and then the fog returns. Good temp fix though. So is oil. So is toothpaste. Even a liquid designed for the job will dry soon and the fog will return. The only way to make it permanent is to remove the oxidation. Healight lens Restorer by Bluemagice will help after removing the oxidation with 2000 grit sandpaper.
Ha ha ha! Lousy for that job! Use JB-80. It's twice as good because it NEVER dries.
It shows it being used directly on the skin of the hands in one of the above pics. Just wash good with soap and water afterwards.That 'agent' Orange stuff is tough on the skin because the citric acid takes out the oils.
It would eventually dry and you'd be back to square. Just like all the other temporarty fixes that have come down the pike.The trick is to remove all the oxidized plastic causing the 'fogging'.Then it'll stay clear for a MUCH longer time.
There's a clear film, somewhere on the net, that can be used that resists uktra violet too. Just can't remember the name or the URL to their site. DARN!I'll have to look and report back.
No No, not for car batteries. I tried that once and the lead plates dissolved, to a point, and the battery died shortly afterwards.
Me? I'm, doing charcoal filters ONLY!! KISS
Me? I'm doing charcoal filters ONLY!! KISS
Me? I'm, doing charcoal filters ONLY!!
Large doses of vitamin B might cause more harm than good. KEYWORD-MIGHT.