author
50Instructables595,672Views5,858CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • I try to explain the battery quality from the little experience I have.All started when I got a pack of 50 "high quality OEM" AA batteries some years ago.If you ever bought standard alkaline batteries in buk then you might have noticed that there is a big difference between brands.And I don't mean the price.Really good alkaline batteries are heavy!Compare a cheap one from the discounter with a brand name one and you know what I mean.Similar story for NiCd rechargeable batteries.But where the alkaline often lack a thick Zink mantle the NiCd ones often come relatively dry.Not enough electrolyte makes them much cheaper and longer lasting but also reduces their output and charging capabilities.If a battery feels light then I just won't buy it ;)As for actual power output:You have ...

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    I try to explain the battery quality from the little experience I have.All started when I got a pack of 50 "high quality OEM" AA batteries some years ago.If you ever bought standard alkaline batteries in buk then you might have noticed that there is a big difference between brands.And I don't mean the price.Really good alkaline batteries are heavy!Compare a cheap one from the discounter with a brand name one and you know what I mean.Similar story for NiCd rechargeable batteries.But where the alkaline often lack a thick Zink mantle the NiCd ones often come relatively dry.Not enough electrolyte makes them much cheaper and longer lasting but also reduces their output and charging capabilities.If a battery feels light then I just won't buy it ;)As for actual power output:You have the outer can, forming the negative of the battery and the inner graphite rod making the connection.Some NiCd batteries just use metel though.Either way, the longer and thicker a battery is the more power it can deliver.See it like a bucket with water - the bigger it is the more can go in and come out when you need it.Replacing the batteries of an old NiCd drill is not really worth it anymore if you ask me.These batteries need to be constantly used to be of any use.Storing them for weeks on end until you need the drill again means they destroy themself by doing nothing.I would consider to invest in a Lithium Ion drill if you really need battery power.Otherwise just use a beefy 12V power supply ;)

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  • Already done in several US harbours and jetties for enviromental reasons.Basically just a big bucket with pump.Water and debris flows in over the rim, the pump gets rid of the water, rubbish is left behind.

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  • A LED headlight goes for 5 bucks over the counter, somehow I bother people will modify their drills...I have one with a LED light but so far had no job in the dark requiring the lights LOL

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  • In case you can't figure it out, the password for the RAR is: Downunder35m

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  • To be honest: I first hated the idea of steel steps.It simply does not mix with cold winters.But when I noticed how great these grated things are in other places I could not resist to try it myself.Does not rot, does not get moss and despite being covered with ice they don't get slippery.As for the snow catchers:If you want a slightly better look after the winter consider using simple hinges and hook.Fold them up and use the hook before winter and once all is over fold them flat on the roof ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on DIYEnPointe's forum topic Embedding YouTube Video Bug8 days ago

    This very old HTML trick should still work as expected, please replace the code for the video only!Leave the youtube.be and all!P2eTb9egUl8 is the only thing you want to replace with the code from your youtube link.Works in Instructables as well as here in the community section.Have similar codes for pictures too so I can have them where I need them inside my text and not out of context.Please click on the pic to see all as it is still impossible to post code on this website in any usable form....

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  • I am now more or less in desert country but grew up with tons of snow every winter, so maybe some of this might help:1. Install snow catchers on your roof if it is sturdy enough to support the weight of the snow.Just two rows with 20 and 60 cm distance from the gutters should keep the snow up there.2. For the winter install a sloping board over the entrance so water runs off to one side.Better still: Add a proper sized gutter over the entrance area.3. Using PVC is better than steel gutters and downpipes!Unlike metal in PVC nothing sticks enough when frozen, you can push most of the snow or ice out or flush it down.The biggest problem is alwys those times when the weather has no clue wich direction to go.Snow comes off the roof, ice build up in the evening and night and if really bad you...

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    I am now more or less in desert country but grew up with tons of snow every winter, so maybe some of this might help:1. Install snow catchers on your roof if it is sturdy enough to support the weight of the snow.Just two rows with 20 and 60 cm distance from the gutters should keep the snow up there.2. For the winter install a sloping board over the entrance so water runs off to one side.Better still: Add a proper sized gutter over the entrance area.3. Using PVC is better than steel gutters and downpipes!Unlike metal in PVC nothing sticks enough when frozen, you can push most of the snow or ice out or flush it down.The biggest problem is alwys those times when the weather has no clue wich direction to go.Snow comes off the roof, ice build up in the evening and night and if really bad you end up with a few hundred kg of frozen snow on your roof waiting to hit you when you close the door on your way out.As for your steps: Wood is almost deadly in the winter conditions as ice builds up quickly and in some case stays loose on the wood.Either way, stepping on it can mean a sudden test of gravity followed by the painful confirmation that no fall lasts forever.IMHO the best options is to use galvanised steel for the steps.You know, these grated panels often used in the industry where little "spikes" or triangles poke out the top slightly.Ice on these breaks once you step on it and you will get a firm grip if wearing proper footwear.For the summer just cover them with wooden boards cut to lenght that have a few screws or similar poking through the metal grates to keep it all in place.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic VR gaming parties anyone?16 days ago

    I feel you Rick, I really do...Was fortunate enough to test some VR systems on a show early this year.My first decision was not to buy a PC based one.Just no chance with my tiny rooms here and I hate running around with cables all the time.My PC is still good enough for a lot of havy duty work but I also fail to see the requirement for a new graphics card.As you said it is still al pixelated and to me it makes no sense to use a high end gaming PC just so I get tiny block in front of my eyes.Sadly during these tests it was confirmed that my motion sickness is as bad as on a tiny boat.As I was never really a fan of first person shooters and similar games I opted for the portable way of VR.This way I can watch a nice 3D movie in bed or enjoy playing some games just sitting on my sofa.So fi...

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    I feel you Rick, I really do...Was fortunate enough to test some VR systems on a show early this year.My first decision was not to buy a PC based one.Just no chance with my tiny rooms here and I hate running around with cables all the time.My PC is still good enough for a lot of havy duty work but I also fail to see the requirement for a new graphics card.As you said it is still al pixelated and to me it makes no sense to use a high end gaming PC just so I get tiny block in front of my eyes.Sadly during these tests it was confirmed that my motion sickness is as bad as on a tiny boat.As I was never really a fan of first person shooters and similar games I opted for the portable way of VR.This way I can watch a nice 3D movie in bed or enjoy playing some games just sitting on my sofa.So finding the right place is far easier for me here ;)My main problem is the lack of root access to make things easier.Although I don't have much need yet I found a way to stream PC based games to my headset.Not just steam, basically any DirectX game with moderate hardware requirements compared to the Rift or similar systems - and still without any wires ;)But if you are like me then you are never happy with what you got.There is always something that needs change, an adjustment or in this case rights and access.So lets see if I manage to be the first to root a VR system ROFLA really big concern however is privacy, or better the violation of it.Just so people know what they are for when signing up for a good VR system:Over the past 10 or so years we have been coached to think that we need to share our lifes with basically everyone capable of getting our data.Be it be legal, grey or just illegal means.Smart assistants in our home help us to save time, social media is checked more often than the pantry during a mice infestation.With all consumer VR systems controlled by the big data players it is no surprise that they try their best on us again.Google is well know to provide what you need based on suggestion they make.And what can be tracked and referenced will be.FB goes a step further thanks to their huge social media presence.You want to tell your friends and so on? Just add them to your list.Link your payment options while at it because not much good is available for free anyway.And before you can even begin you need another mobile device to set it all up.I had to go through some trickery to at least try to fool the think into thinking I am not actually placed where I am :(FB gets not just your bank details but also your real address with phone and all.Unless of course you don't want any warranty for your costly toy and get it from unsupported sources and never register it or buy apps.I am starting to hate the US way of thinking we need someone to control what we do and tell us what we need while totally restricting basic privacy rights :(

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  • Goodbye Moshi or How to Run Your Laser Printer on Arduino

    I found this in my comments but think it was deleted already:no misconception, moshidraw doesn't even work with lihuiyu board. i'm not knocking your work, this is a great article. just pointing out that people are seeing this and then coming over to some of the many support groups i help and telling us they have a moshi board when they dont. i can read between the lines and i get the article title. its just confusing to some when moshi is mentioned when the pictured board has absolutely nothing in the world to do with moshi boards or moshidraw. again this is a nice writeup and you do great work. for me, though, the devil is in the details. anyway have a great day :)Just to clearify:After two years you come to complain about my Instructable.Fair enough...But I also sold about 40 Arduino ...

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    I found this in my comments but think it was deleted already:no misconception, moshidraw doesn't even work with lihuiyu board. i'm not knocking your work, this is a great article. just pointing out that people are seeing this and then coming over to some of the many support groups i help and telling us they have a moshi board when they dont. i can read between the lines and i get the article title. its just confusing to some when moshi is mentioned when the pictured board has absolutely nothing in the world to do with moshi boards or moshidraw. again this is a nice writeup and you do great work. for me, though, the devil is in the details. anyway have a great day :)Just to clearify:After two years you come to complain about my Instructable.Fair enough...But I also sold about 40 Arduino controllers with my mod to people running a K40 with Moshi soft.Instead of blamin me for your problems understanding time it would make sense to complain to the Chinese.I still have the original board, software and dongle that came with my cutter, so if I write an Instructable about the controller, software and so on than why do you think I would need to make things up?Already back then the supplied Moshi software was outdated by over a year and no newer would work with the dongle.So unless your work is based on these old models then please consider that even the Chinese scammers move on to never stuff every now and then.Or why do you think so many people followed my instructions here and sent me endless messages to get their cutter work properly? ;)If newer K40 use different boards, dongles or software then it can't be my fault as this Instructable is now quite old...

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  • Things are indeed funny in this ection but we can still hope it will be fixed before we reach retirement age ;)For the search I found two options:1. Let the big spy collect more data about your habbits and use the search engine we all know.2. Use the provided Instructables search functions properly!!For those not so familiar how the Instructables search actually works:Keep in mind that the little robot does it all for us...First you need to feed the little nipple through the lash,then, using the little hand crank you need to turn it all the way up,then it will show a little arrow, press it and the results of your search should appear in the box below.If I now only could find out in which slot the card with the search terms has to go.....

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  • Downunder35m commented on randofo's forum topic Old How-To Books17 days ago

    I had a collection of about 300 magazines.All about electronic circuits and what to do with them.You know, instead of explaining how a LED works they would give you the info in the October release.Just so you can make some scry halloween props.One I really liked was the Kojack siren "kit".Took my (as a little boy) a whole day to solder it together but then another week to make the megaphone like enclosure from cardboard.Times were different back then.If there was a way to make it yourself then you just did it.And those old books are some sort of history lesson too.Skills and knowledge is already lost, so keep those books in a safe place :)Mine old books and magazines somehow managed to escape my shipping container between customs inspection and me being able to get the contain...

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    I had a collection of about 300 magazines.All about electronic circuits and what to do with them.You know, instead of explaining how a LED works they would give you the info in the October release.Just so you can make some scry halloween props.One I really liked was the Kojack siren "kit".Took my (as a little boy) a whole day to solder it together but then another week to make the megaphone like enclosure from cardboard.Times were different back then.If there was a way to make it yourself then you just did it.And those old books are some sort of history lesson too.Skills and knowledge is already lost, so keep those books in a safe place :)Mine old books and magazines somehow managed to escape my shipping container between customs inspection and me being able to get the container.I estimated that 20% of the contents were lost but I never got any back :(Would be nice if people with these old books and magizines would still have time to scan them for the big digital archive...

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  • Goodbye Moshi or How to Run Your Laser Printer on Arduino

    Well, if you would have checked then you might have noticed your misconception ;)The K40 and other dirt cheap Chinese cutters come with this board.The software is called Moshi, same for the required dongle.Wouldn't have made any sense to put the name of the controller board into the title if no one knows what they are used for.Keep in mind that a few years passed now, but it still won't mean these controller boards are any good.

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  • If you struggle to find proper wire then just try to get a suitable spring for the upper end.For the rest use a thin strip of metal.Brass from some "thickness gauge" sheet works fine here and the stuff is dirt cheap.Form a cylinder for the bottom end, add a strip and the spring...

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  • Back in the day the sharing of a draft by URL worked fine.Then only the author could use the link unless he also shared the cookies.And I stopped checking when I noticed nothing works anymore.What Wurx suggested might work but not 1ßß% about the cookie problem as a draft is by default in Edit mode.

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  • Have a lot of people call him...."Hello James! I just wanted to let you know we might be a little late due to traffic." Hang up.."Hi James, we are almost there, should we bring anything from the shops or so?" Hang up before he can fully answer..."Hey James, I am about to load the tables and the bbq, sure you don't need the chairs too?"...Continue with calls for John in regards to a big party or similar for a day or two if you dare.Once you notice your friend is getting a bit, well lets say angry, you have some nice, old lady call him:"OH, hello, this is Johns gandma, how are you? I was just wondering if anyone left some messages for John?I have now all the people here and nothing is prepared because you never called us...."

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  • Downunder35m commented on ashakif's forum topic 5v to 12v convert23 days ago

    From what I see you can't.There is a rectifier, transformer and even some capacitors but I have no clue for what voltages they are.

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  • Ok, I had no clue they made it that simple LOLIf I follow you correctly then the positive of the battery just touches one connection and the spring give the other.Your best option would be spring wire or dental wire as it gives enough tension to form a spring.Assuming you have neither:Take some old battery and try to find a long spring made of thin wire that provides a snug fit.A bit too big is bad, a big too small in diameter can be made to work.If you have some cheap flashlight or similar you might even find a suitable replacement.In case you need to make it all from scratch:Take a wire that offers some tension, so not just normal copper wire.Anything nice and stiff like tyre wire will do.Form a few tight loops around something slightly thinner than your batter - the wire will "p...

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    Ok, I had no clue they made it that simple LOLIf I follow you correctly then the positive of the battery just touches one connection and the spring give the other.Your best option would be spring wire or dental wire as it gives enough tension to form a spring.Assuming you have neither:Take some old battery and try to find a long spring made of thin wire that provides a snug fit.A bit too big is bad, a big too small in diameter can be made to work.If you have some cheap flashlight or similar you might even find a suitable replacement.In case you need to make it all from scratch:Take a wire that offers some tension, so not just normal copper wire.Anything nice and stiff like tyre wire will do.Form a few tight loops around something slightly thinner than your batter - the wire will "push back" and increase the diameter a bit when done.Make 3 or 4 turns with a good spacing and then 2 or 3 more that are really tight - these thight one go to the bottom part and form your connection.Check the lenght of the remaining wire and bend it to match the corred one in length.Take a battery spring from some old toy and solder it onto the wire to form the top terminal.If your wire is stiff enough you can try to form a simple coil with it too.

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  • You would have to place a sensor insde the material to get a reading.A small NTC or temp sensor does not require more than 2mm hole and said hole can be filled with some clear resin once the sensor is placed.

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  • $2 Sun Tracker Circuit - Healthy Discussion!

    I quite like the idea of "just use some solar panel to position another" :)And since I like to tinker myself I guess it means I have to come with a working solution one day.Or hope someone is nice enough to post one...I have a 6V panel used for a shed light.Only problem is that I got it for free with a fully smashed housing but fully working.After seeing this Ible I started to sqeeze and twist my neurons a bit.One word of warning: This is only a weird idea and I did not do any tests, so just enjoy!In my case I would charge a battery pack, so a constant power supply would be available for starters.The main panel does the charging of course.Now the idea of small solar panels driving a motor....Solar garden lights come to mind...If switched off they just work as a charger....But ...

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    I quite like the idea of "just use some solar panel to position another" :)And since I like to tinker myself I guess it means I have to come with a working solution one day.Or hope someone is nice enough to post one...I have a 6V panel used for a shed light.Only problem is that I got it for free with a fully smashed housing but fully working.After seeing this Ible I started to sqeeze and twist my neurons a bit.One word of warning: This is only a weird idea and I did not do any tests, so just enjoy!In my case I would charge a battery pack, so a constant power supply would be available for starters.The main panel does the charging of course.Now the idea of small solar panels driving a motor....Solar garden lights come to mind...If switched off they just work as a charger....But they still provide a source for a voltage check...Using a green LED for the actual tracking info might work easier though.Here we could use a Xor chip to get usable values for 4 LED's.Two either side at increasing angles.Sadly this would only give instant tracking, which is quite a drain.With some more transistors, a timer and so on it is possible to established a delayed tracking.Here the system waits until a critical value or timelimit is reached until the motor is activated.Going full scale some UNO and a buck coverter could fully automate this task.Either way, once the motor needs to move the energy comes from the small batteries of the garden lights....

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  • I am not 100% about the insides of these pens but you certainly need the positive and negative connections for the batteries.Be aware that the stuff corroded and that this corrosion can also affect the circuit board!Before proceeding use an old toothbrush or similar to remove all debris.You can use methylated spirit for additional cleaning and rinsing action.Only if the actual things looks still intact it is worth thinking about fixing the wire.Once cleaned up you will need something to solder anyway, so lets start with a basic test:Locate the positive and negative connection on the circuit board - with a bit of luck it should be obvious.Solder thin and insulated wires onto the corresponding pads.Connect the correct one to positive on one battery, the other to negative on another batter...

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    I am not 100% about the insides of these pens but you certainly need the positive and negative connections for the batteries.Be aware that the stuff corroded and that this corrosion can also affect the circuit board!Before proceeding use an old toothbrush or similar to remove all debris.You can use methylated spirit for additional cleaning and rinsing action.Only if the actual things looks still intact it is worth thinking about fixing the wire.Once cleaned up you will need something to solder anyway, so lets start with a basic test:Locate the positive and negative connection on the circuit board - with a bit of luck it should be obvious.Solder thin and insulated wires onto the corresponding pads.Connect the correct one to positive on one battery, the other to negative on another battery.Once you bring the batteries together you should have power.Check if all works, if not just bin it ;)In case it does work we can work something out for the springs....

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  • IMHO there is not enough space to actually fit what you need.At least not without a massive workload on modifications.A hub motor might fit but then again you have nothing to attach it to.A normal motor on the rea might work too but no room inside anwhere.Only way out I see is to create at least a new frame....

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  • Ok, after about one hour of trying to post a reply, text is finally appearing in the window :)Waste is relative, as relative as your specs on the power supply or current draw.One thing is certain though: If the relay is constantly on then you have a significant drop.A transistor, like a cheap mosfet from the scrap box, a small SSR being creative could help.For the creative part:I assume your light is not really using much juice, maby even just a small LED.You could check on the relay, datasheet or measure the current the relay needs to stay energised.Wouldn't be surprised if your light needs about the same....So with a suitable resistor to get to the voltage the relay you could just replace it with your light.If it needs much more you might need to replace the transistor powering the re...

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    Ok, after about one hour of trying to post a reply, text is finally appearing in the window :)Waste is relative, as relative as your specs on the power supply or current draw.One thing is certain though: If the relay is constantly on then you have a significant drop.A transistor, like a cheap mosfet from the scrap box, a small SSR being creative could help.For the creative part:I assume your light is not really using much juice, maby even just a small LED.You could check on the relay, datasheet or measure the current the relay needs to stay energised.Wouldn't be surprised if your light needs about the same....So with a suitable resistor to get to the voltage the relay you could just replace it with your light.If it needs much more you might need to replace the transistor powering the relay with something bigger.

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  • Oh: In case you wonder what mostly sellers struggle with then check the Ebay section on Reddit.If you though we buyers feel bad then might be surprised by what some seller have to deal with, especially when it comes to dodgy buyers and changes Ebay makes....

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  • As said some normal battery eliminators can be used.They don't care about the output voltage and just cut all off once the set low limit is reached.But they are quite bulky in comparison.That is why I mentioned to use a SSR with the little one - they have no issues operating at 5V or lower.Comes down to what you need just requires an additional part and some additional wiring.

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  • Again: Please check the BT specifications, especially in regards to what your dongle is capable of.If there would be at least anyuse to it then someone in China would have put one on ebay already ;)

    You can't do all this at once over BT.And adding a reader won't work anyways due to the missing hardware support.Apart from that I doubt your retor system support saving over BT.

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  • How about somethinglike this:https://www.pololu.com/product/2868Would give you a regulated output voltage with low voltage protection.Depending on the model even adjustable.The "load" on this could be a relay or better SSR switching the actual load off.But if size is no problem just check for adjustable battery eliminator.Most are fixed for 12V car systems but you can get adjustable ones too.Back in the day there were even electronics kits available for DIY to do just this.But can't find a suitable circuit for high amps right now.

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  • Well, then once again I will see it as a hopeful start and wait what happens.Hopefully we are getting to something that both sides can work with ;)

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  • I love to tinker with thinks that should not be tinkered with, and I had a very similar problem.For me it was living in a flat that had one half under ground, so limited ventilation of dry air possible.And the weather was too bad for drying all my work clothes most of the time.I found a clothes dryer with condenser.Unlike the cheap standard ones that just blow out all humid and hot air these use two fans.One blows the room air into the heated rum, the other blows fresh over one side of the evaporator plates.The hot and humid air will then condense on the other side of the plate and can be drained off.But you want to go at least one step further than just building something similar to add to your dryer I guess...If you suffer from both long term wet weather and the need to dry a lot of c...

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    I love to tinker with thinks that should not be tinkered with, and I had a very similar problem.For me it was living in a flat that had one half under ground, so limited ventilation of dry air possible.And the weather was too bad for drying all my work clothes most of the time.I found a clothes dryer with condenser.Unlike the cheap standard ones that just blow out all humid and hot air these use two fans.One blows the room air into the heated rum, the other blows fresh over one side of the evaporator plates.The hot and humid air will then condense on the other side of the plate and can be drained off.But you want to go at least one step further than just building something similar to add to your dryer I guess...If you suffer from both long term wet weather and the need to dry a lot of clothes then using a portable split aircon system might be the way out.Just to be clear: there are two types!I don't mean those single tower ones with the axhaust pipe going out the window.I do mean a real split system with seperate "indoor" and "outdoor" unit.Here is how I currently use it: To cool my bedroom...Here is how I use it the cold winter times:The indoor part is in my laundry and the outdoor unit sits in the hallway with the door closed as much as possible.All clothes are on a rack right in the outgoing airstream of the indoor unit.I use the dehumidifying setting on the aircon...Within about an hour my clothes are dry, although on a very cold day I have to assist with a little heater to speed things up.And the produce heat from the unit is not wasted as it warms my house while drying my clothes.Being a quite small device my aircon does not use more than 1000W under full load.Best of all is that the humidity in the house is kept low to prevent mould building up in cold spots.Keep in mind though that you would need to elevate the oudoor unit so you can use a bucket or so to catch the water.No point drying your laundry if you soak your carpet as a result ;)

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  • No offence but soldering is the most rugged way to attach a resistor.I am assuming soldering is not really your best skill and you need a way out?Giving us much more details would certainly help here.Pull resistors usually go between ground/positive and an input on a microcontroller.The only other reason to use them is in arrays.And if you have the problem that you need to connect a sensor to a controller AND have pull resistor inuse then again soldering is the best option.You can get scre terminals for this task too that you just push on the pins and then screw the resistor toit without soldering - but it gets big, does not always fit (size for a case, shields and so on) and also can casue additional problems with bad connections.

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  • Now I am slowly starting to see the Instrubles logic behind it.Back in my big forum days we had a similar fight, just "in reverse" so to speak.Old topics suddenly appeared again because someone found it through a search in relation to his problem.What you guys see as a positive was a big struggle for us as most of these old topics would never see anything from a related person.We solved this by adding an archive section.All topics older than xxx months would go in there automatically.People could still read them but if they wanted to reply a new topic was created with a link to the archive for reference.This way a user knew right away it is an old topic.In most cases the person then decided it really is better to check for something newer or to indeed create a maningful new re...

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    Now I am slowly starting to see the Instrubles logic behind it.Back in my big forum days we had a similar fight, just "in reverse" so to speak.Old topics suddenly appeared again because someone found it through a search in relation to his problem.What you guys see as a positive was a big struggle for us as most of these old topics would never see anything from a related person.We solved this by adding an archive section.All topics older than xxx months would go in there automatically.People could still read them but if they wanted to reply a new topic was created with a link to the archive for reference.This way a user knew right away it is an old topic.In most cases the person then decided it really is better to check for something newer or to indeed create a maningful new request.When it comes to engaging people, trust me, nothing beast active people.It does not really matter if you have 5 or 50 new questions a day if no one finds them or can be bothered to give a useful reply.I mean check "Most polular...?"7 yers old!!! and if you would dare to find the last reply you would waste a lot of time and most likely find a new reply that is of no interest to anyone anymore.When things were still normal here in the community section we had days were the "team" here answered questions within a few minutes at the best of times but usually never later than a few hours.Someone would always spot a new topic or question.And as you noticed, right now basically no one can be bothered anymore....There are not too many users active every day, keeping those here to act should be the main goal.What is the use of collecting 20 or more questions and topics a day if no one answers them ?Sure it looks good on paper but not so good for the userexperience as at least I would expect to see a reply if I check my question the next day or so.Linking questions from or about Instructables here in their own section might be a good idea but it is also confusing.Same for questions and tips.From what I see they are more or less Instructables with some real stuff mixed between them.If I have a question then I post one but not a picture story with Instructions on to build something - that would be an Instructable.Same for an endless collection of tips with no sorting at all.Google helps to find stuff if you know how to use it, the internal search here is still miles away from getting even close.Let me try to explain it with a back to the future trip:When I started to post here years ago the section was a mess.But more in terms of being user friendly for options how to edit and create posts.There was no lack in new questions or topics at all.In fact we guys here were quite busy and at times even enjoyed making jokes about all the scam postings.Then the support decided on some unannounced changes.We creid, we complained, we got promised a fix.A bit was turned back, other things slightly adjusted but never to the extend a lot of people hoped for.Things slowed down.If you need to provide code but get it into your reply in any usable form then it sucks.If you need to embed a picture in a specific spot to explain it with corresponding text but can't then it sucks again.And this list went on for miles at the time.All while we still had tons of new postings coming.Then came the big breakthrough of a totally revamped community section.Instructables was so proud of it that for weeks any complaints were just played down or totally ignored with the ongoing statement that all is better now.To top it off the oftenused funtion to highlight a topic as a bug report or feature request was just removed.So our complaints were either lost or just not seen/acknowledged.NOW Instructables noticed that the activity is far below anything acceptable but still fails to see how it started and "WHAT CAUSED IT" .A community section like this survives on the users posting there.A new user posting and unable to even find his newly created topic will just move on.Face it: As always a lot just register to post their sooo important question but some never come back to check. Now even less come back as they think they being ignored.Stats, counters and all that are not important as in a good section you really only need those for stats as the activity speaks for itself.I could give you a long list of support forums that all are bad for the same reasons.And funny enough the reasons are the same as for this one.1. No user friendly search and sorting options.This includes topics as well as the replies within - no point knowing there is a new reply if I can't find it...2. Lack of actual support.If someone asks a question and the first 5 replies are all meaningless then the system failed.Same for not getting a response in an acceptable timeframe.Trust me users these days often think they have to see an answer within a few hours but not days.3. Advanced options!!!Once a user has enough reputation, postings, postive feedback, he must be given proper posting and editing options.Again take a look at Vbulletin for the many options that make posting not only more fun but also much more competent.Embedding code, hiding long texts, properly embedding images and if required attachments are just plain basics.Same for using highlighting text to make a selective quote with reference to the user.4. Sections, sections, sections....No matter what you do any forum will sooner or later reach its limit in terms of how cludded it looks.So being able to provide sections makes it easier.This does not have to affect the sorting either if there is an option to show all new topics and replies from all sections in one go ;)In terms of new topics a user should be required to specify where he thinks it should land.For example question on how power a stepper motor could be in the electronics section.While some question like "How to remove a coffe stain from my wooden table?" could be in woodworking, cleaning or such.Even with just icons as markers like right now "topic" and different colors a basic section order would be easy.Again, you can leave the current all in one list system, just double the view ;)Add the sections like for questions and tipss or in a more modern and graphical selection form for all those who just love to browse through interesting things.5. Rating, feedback, bugs.Whether you like to admit it or not, these three things are most vital.A user should be able to rate all replies to his question or at least select the best one as we had a long time ago.If I see that just "somone" gave me an answer I might be happy, but if I see that someone with a really high reputation answered instead of a newbie I could be tempted to think I get real help really fast.Feedback is vital for ever developer, without all his work is just guesswork.So far the feedback record for this site is not really that good.Problems that are ignored forever or played down with explanations that just make no sense for a forum are one example.Often going totally against what the most active people here suggest or ask for is just bad.So removing a feedback and bug reporting option by just a poseted topic about changes can't be enough.You guys want the number to go up, we guys want to be able to help the user in the possible and quickest way.So why constantly work against each other if both sides in essence want the same thing??? ;)Let us users deal with the newbies and normal users.Give us the tools we need for it.Listen and maybe sometimes fix things a bit differently.Can't make any promises but I am almost certain that all YOUR problems and concerns will disappear around the same OUR problems disappear.Changes will cause chaos again but if these changes are made bit by bit the transistion will be easier, the rate of errors made along the way will be minimised and maybe no one will even notice any downtime in the section.Check the topics and questions from the time before the revamp and you will see how fast active averything was.

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  • I can only back Rick up here!For years we struggled to get a properly working sorting here.Then comes the update and even the support seems to have silent since then.I posted several times in regards to this issue but it seems the topics went into the digital nirvana.The same nirvana we have right now when trying to get through anything in the community section.It is really not that hard to provide MULTIPLE sorting options, every good forum can show you how it should look.Even in the most basic form you can sort by latest topic and latest reply to a topic.As no active user here seems to understand the logic behind the current system I simply state it is too far from being user friendly.And talking about it for another 6 or more months won't fix it.

    Back in the day I could at least add some search functions to the HTTP string, like sort=recent.This "feature" was removed with the update.I left here and totally ignored even looking at Email notifications.Coming back after such a long time and seeing nothing at all has improved makes me wonder...

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's instructable The Repulsine Project4 weeks ago
    The Repulsine Project

    Finally someone who seems to think in similar directions :)Sadly from I could gather from videos and pic it looks like basically all copper and brass parts are connected one way or the other.Soldering, brazing, rivets, screw...But, and for me it is a big but:The described funtions of the repulsine (from old documents, articles, interviews) all come down to one thing alone.The medium, in our case air, is propelled internally so fast and through so many changing directions and pressures that it is hard to understand.At least from normal persons standpoint all these years ago.Combining your thoughts and me thoughts I could be tempted to say something like this:The air in the first two stages is accellerated and put into a very fast spinning motion, like on a Dyson vacuum cleaner you end up...

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    Finally someone who seems to think in similar directions :)Sadly from I could gather from videos and pic it looks like basically all copper and brass parts are connected one way or the other.Soldering, brazing, rivets, screw...But, and for me it is a big but:The described funtions of the repulsine (from old documents, articles, interviews) all come down to one thing alone.The medium, in our case air, is propelled internally so fast and through so many changing directions and pressures that it is hard to understand.At least from normal persons standpoint all these years ago.Combining your thoughts and me thoughts I could be tempted to say something like this:The air in the first two stages is accellerated and put into a very fast spinning motion, like on a Dyson vacuum cleaner you end up with whirpools within whirlpools.Only the slow moving particles actually make it into the third stage by themself.The venturi nossles, especially those in the last two stages, will cause a low pressure zone within the bottom part of the repulsine.The low pressure zone "sucks" in the fast moving particles from the first two stages.The overall design is so that the spinning motion continues but only for the entire incoming stream.This stream "runs" along the outer surface, keeping the low pressure zone in the center active.Only looking at the overall streams that made it into the inner low pressure zone:The air passed through different nozzels at very high speed.As a result the air is cooled down and if I trust reports enough to be able to cool a factory sized room by almost 10° within less than 2 hours.Going on:This freezing cold air requires far less volume than hot air.On top of it, it is under a really low pressure.This air is now the main stream used to actually enter the copper wave disc part!Once it enters through the nozzles with the normal incoming air I think two things happen:a ) The sudden mix of warmer air causes expansion of the overall volume.b ) Condensation is eliminated as the super cold part of the stream will always be colder than the surrounding metal.Once in the copper wave disk the air gets even more spin added, the the same direction.Only this time the spin produces centrifugal forces as well.So you have a stream, spinning around itself, that enters a rotating disk - like a Tesla turbine in a flat design.the further the stream goes in the more it looses the self-spin.First the fast moving bits are ripped off, then the slow moving ones until it is one homogenous stream pressed out like dough.Problem is the stream goes through a lot of pressure changes along the way out to the nozzles.A drawing would be good but I miss the print button on my head :(I can visualise it really nice but getting this nice view onto paper ruins it.If required I will try anyway :)Now, as I found out really late in my research: the wave disks are not really parallel to each other!If you see it as a cut out then a single intersecting area looks almost like a weird whistle.On the upper part of the discs the air just utilises the surface effect to follow on at a much higher speed.Behind the edge of the lower disc however a small vortex area forms as the result of the slow down of airflow.I can not even guesstimate the insane rotation speed in these vortices, nor the resulting pressure drop in this area.As we both seem to know: the actual rotation is started externally first to get the thing going.At a certain speed it not only becomes self sustaining but only accelerates - this moment indicates the motor shut down.The rotation of the repulsine's outside in a fully working model is zero!Only the simple prototypes were the spinning horrors that needed to be bolted down in exteral frames.The nozzles have two main functions:a ) Modify the air flow and regulate the low pressure zones.b ) Counteract the mechanical spin of the inner system by the outgoing airflow - like a helicopter with a tail turbine.A thing often overlooked is the fact that there are multiple in and outlets on the outer hull.Same for the modern comparison of the wave disk system: A mulecular vacuum pump.In some pictures of the wave discs I think have seem holes in the waves.Only located at the first few rings after the intake rings.It is next to impossible to judge the thickness of the material and I can only guess the the look of the area underneath these slot holes.But they do appear like a whistle style nozzle.They are definately right in the spot where the surface flow happens, so the airstream should pass over this hole without being affected.That is until you consider the pressure differences between the outer sides of both discs.I assume these slots are the regulating factor to control the max rotational speed.Without them the whole inner mechanism would simple keep accelerating until the repulsine rips apart from centrifugal forces.A thing that happened several times with the early prototypes.Adding your thoughts to the mix it would be nice to figure out how and where the different electrical potentials form as these would also affect the airflow and properties.The report glow on working prototypes at full capacity indicates a clear and massive charge.But if you examine the construction of the replusine with a focus on the ouside then one thing is obvious:The inner stream is partially diverted to go over the outer surface.Again just with a focus of charges:What would happen to the charge of a fast spinning stream passing over metal surfaces?It gives off some of this charge, pretty obvious but I had to point it out.The stream however won't be able to loose all the electrical charge as at the point of eqaul operation activities it will stay charged.Like a flowing river so to say - it never stops, so the charge never reall goes down to zero.And if siad stream now passes through very narrow areas then both the stream and the charge of it will be compressed.As a result a plasma forms in this area.And air as an energetic plasma requires far much volume!Suddenly the whole implosion theory makes much more sense as the reported pulsing is not a result of changing air pressures but the same effect we have on a dead simple scream jet engine.Also explains why the pulsing stopped when the visible outer glow started - the plasme was no longer forming in interrupts but from then on is ongoing.The whole repulsine literally went silent apart from the noise of the bearings and airflow.What does that now mean for the "free energy" fans and claims that the repulsine never actually worked?This might shock you to hear but we are still missing some of the laws of physics.Namely those based on resonance and harmonics.I really don't want to prove that I am officially a nut case but did you ever check the so called "bearing motor" ?Just bearings, a metal axle and lots pow amps - and it spins like mad!Nothing efficient, unless you have massive amounts of energy to waste!The official claims from so called experts:The laws of physics tell us that it is impossible to create energy.It is also impossible to transmit or transform energy without losses.Therfor the repulsine can not sustain its rotation from the airflow.My claim is, since the abundance of energy is evident by the glow:The nozzle design supports the best possible way to utilise the energy from the airflow.If it has to come out anyway then in a manner that helps to keep the spin up.And with the outer hull on one charge and the inner on the opposite charge: what is between the two?Right, a set of bearings forming a bearing motor....But since we still neither fully understand plasmas, nor how to really use them as a source to create electrical power: what the heck do I know....

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  • So you registered just to post a reply on a 2 year old topic?Not only did things change a bit since then but:If you find a typo in my text then you can use it freely and to your liking.But if you use my typos o make money I would like to see a small percentage from the earnings ;)

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  • Tried to mention this several times, most got ignored.The one that got a reply from support states all if fine....Seems you are imagining things here Rick ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on wdemarche's forum topic DIY Scuba Tank (breath underwater)4 weeks ago

    There is a reason for all these laws and regulation in regards to breathable air tank supplies and the related equippment.They all were made after too many people tried what you want to try.It all sounds fun and easy but if things can go wrong then they do, sooner rather then later.In theory I would have no problems at all making my own low tech scuba gear.Quite easy actually as I have all required parts at hand.Still I would not even try it.....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Worby10's forum topic Circuit design5 weeks ago

    A counter IC, two flip-flops, a few resitors, or go overboard and use a microcontroller.You can even go old school with relaysOne timer relay set to one or two seconds and self locking so the timer keeps running.One contact is in series with the second relay and the switch.So only while the timer relay is on a flick of the switch will power the second relay.If in doubt add one more relay so you can turn the lights off too.

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  • Bench grinder wheels are no big deal and usually not of the same quality as a trua sharpening stone.Trust me, nothing beats square when it comes to manual sharpening.Too hard to get a decent run when you start on a round piece.But from a certain diameter onwards those wheels come in handy.At slow speeds and with water they produce a really nice hollow edge, like on a straight razor blade.And I agree on the cheap diamond plates.Cheaply produced by putting grid on a plate and then electroplating nickel on it.In the finer grits this often causes the grid to be used off with the nickel holding it.You are left then with a rough and pitted surface.Quality ones do last though.I have a block with 4 different grits and after over 2 years of good use it still performs like on the first day.An alt...

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    Bench grinder wheels are no big deal and usually not of the same quality as a trua sharpening stone.Trust me, nothing beats square when it comes to manual sharpening.Too hard to get a decent run when you start on a round piece.But from a certain diameter onwards those wheels come in handy.At slow speeds and with water they produce a really nice hollow edge, like on a straight razor blade.And I agree on the cheap diamond plates.Cheaply produced by putting grid on a plate and then electroplating nickel on it.In the finer grits this often causes the grid to be used off with the nickel holding it.You are left then with a rough and pitted surface.Quality ones do last though.I have a block with 4 different grits and after over 2 years of good use it still performs like on the first day.An alternative for the toolbox is a piece of ceramic tile.Sometimes you are lucky and find an outdoor or wetroom tile with a flat surface and just the right roughness.And in about 50% of cases the material is hard enough to be misused.Not so good for the course grits but certainly a throw away alternative to very expensive honing stones.Really good for the maintenance on a wood chisel.Just run it over the tile a few times when done using it and it stays nice and sharp.

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  • Made a similar tool from a sharpener that had its stones come loose.They do have a purpose and work greate but only if you already have a properly formed edge.In the kitchen I use it to keep the knifes sharp during long use.But: Ever tried them on a slightly damaged edge?In the just mechincal category these tools are in my top list ;)

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  • Just look up "arduino coil winder" ;)Plenty of projects to give you an idea and code.Stepper motors are the way to go and liniear rails, as a bundle often available for under $50 on online shops.You can salvage though if you have old printers, floppy drives or similar to find stepper motors and rails.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Phil B's forum topic Microwave stopped heating5 weeks ago

    Start with the pure basics first.A lot of microwaves have temperature sensors as well as safety switches by the double.A failing microswitch for the door can turn off all functions off, some or just the power to the transformer.The temp switches open with too much heat, so you only need a basic multimeter across the switch to check it has continuity.If you can't hear the usual humming when the microwaves heats then start with the transformer too.With no power to the transformer you eleiminate all need to check the high voltage side or magnetron ;)I suspect a faulty microswitch in the door or some not so perfect connection.Check all connections that are not soldered.Take the time to get the safety switch assembly out if you can't get the wires off.You will need to check each switch witho...

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    Start with the pure basics first.A lot of microwaves have temperature sensors as well as safety switches by the double.A failing microswitch for the door can turn off all functions off, some or just the power to the transformer.The temp switches open with too much heat, so you only need a basic multimeter across the switch to check it has continuity.If you can't hear the usual humming when the microwaves heats then start with the transformer too.With no power to the transformer you eleiminate all need to check the high voltage side or magnetron ;)I suspect a faulty microswitch in the door or some not so perfect connection.Check all connections that are not soldered.Take the time to get the safety switch assembly out if you can't get the wires off.You will need to check each switch without the wires on it, so take a pic or mark them !!Some will be normally closed, some normally open.Either way the reading on your multimeter or tester should change clearly if you push the switch.Anything not perfect here means you need to replace the switch in question.Having a scrap microwave at hand comes in handy here ;)For further work: Just unplug the microwave and wait an hour.The capacitor has a bleeding resistor and should be empty by then.And unless you mess directly on the high voltage side of thing you are safe anyway.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic All going downhill here again?8 weeks ago

    Anyone?Or am I alone with this problem?Well, or maybe no one can find this topic....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic All going downhill here again?8 weeks ago

    Well, day two now with neither a response here nor anything improving in the sections :(No offence but looks exactly like no one cares about it...

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  • There is a good store in downtown Bangladesh.Fair prices for electronics and testing equippment that is not too old too far from modern specs.Opposite the main railway station , about 400m down the road.

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  • See, with all this additional data your request would look much more convincing ;)And, yes, I do understand your point and struggles.Been there, done that, got the same results as you did so far.These days people are not just lazy but also without and real interest, most simply can't be bothered.One thing that should get at least the attention of the younger generation would be to create an open group on Facebook or similar.And well, timing is the other issue, they fidget spinner hype in AU was hard but short lived.Now you really need to search hard to find a store with left over stock if you want to buy one.Same for people making them, they have done it at the peak of the hype and now most moved on.So getting attention to such a topic is hard enough, getting meaningful and helping repl...

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    See, with all this additional data your request would look much more convincing ;)And, yes, I do understand your point and struggles.Been there, done that, got the same results as you did so far.These days people are not just lazy but also without and real interest, most simply can't be bothered.One thing that should get at least the attention of the younger generation would be to create an open group on Facebook or similar.And well, timing is the other issue, they fidget spinner hype in AU was hard but short lived.Now you really need to search hard to find a store with left over stock if you want to buy one.Same for people making them, they have done it at the peak of the hype and now most moved on.So getting attention to such a topic is hard enough, getting meaningful and helping replies to finnish your work even harder.Have you ever tried to contact the original inventer to hear her side of the story?

    No offence but I see two problems:1. You have really no reputation here, neither good, nor bad and not even any postings.2. A survey is nice modern thing that got abused far too often already.Together this results in the question why someone should risk clicking on a link that might as well go to a hijacker or worse.The case is not really that hard to research either IMHO.A nice british lady got ripped off by the chinese market and never saw a cent for her invention ;)The rest is not really worth a story as it is just a created marketing hype.Try it yourself when you still see someone playing with a fidget spinner:Ask the person what the term "fidget" means ;)The only difference between them, a tippee top, pokemon or just a barbie doll is marketing.Otherwise the ads for these ...

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    No offence but I see two problems:1. You have really no reputation here, neither good, nor bad and not even any postings.2. A survey is nice modern thing that got abused far too often already.Together this results in the question why someone should risk clicking on a link that might as well go to a hijacker or worse.The case is not really that hard to research either IMHO.A nice british lady got ripped off by the chinese market and never saw a cent for her invention ;)The rest is not really worth a story as it is just a created marketing hype.Try it yourself when you still see someone playing with a fidget spinner:Ask the person what the term "fidget" means ;)The only difference between them, a tippee top, pokemon or just a barbie doll is marketing.Otherwise the ads for these fidget toys would have reflected the medical benifits instead of showwing kids playing and doing tricks ;)

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  • Reminds me of that guy on the talent show....Parents spent a fortune on his medical career only so their boy becomes a magician ROFLBut it always pays off to have old school skills and knowledge :)

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  • Found a can of old hairspray left from my printing days so I experimented a bit.Can only go from a no name but really sticky composition...On a glass surface it becomes obvious that it is a two component mix.A solvent and the stuff that make the hair go hard.Judging by the burn appearance once the gas part is evaporated I tend to say the solvent is alcohol.Freshly applied it cleans off nice with alcohol too but once fully dry and hard not so much.But alcohol can ruin a lot of paint too, so moving on.Tested on some old and painted window frame I had left it turns out the stuff is actually a real pain in the behind.It certainly acts like a primer and bonds really well to not just the paint but also the dust and dirt on it, creating almost a sealed area.Even the fog from spraying at a grea...

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    Found a can of old hairspray left from my printing days so I experimented a bit.Can only go from a no name but really sticky composition...On a glass surface it becomes obvious that it is a two component mix.A solvent and the stuff that make the hair go hard.Judging by the burn appearance once the gas part is evaporated I tend to say the solvent is alcohol.Freshly applied it cleans off nice with alcohol too but once fully dry and hard not so much.But alcohol can ruin a lot of paint too, so moving on.Tested on some old and painted window frame I had left it turns out the stuff is actually a real pain in the behind.It certainly acts like a primer and bonds really well to not just the paint but also the dust and dirt on it, creating almost a sealed area.Even the fog from spraying at a great distance is bad here.Eraser sponges work but fade away quickly.Hot soapy water does work to some extent but requires a rough spongeand this can cause scratches on the paint.In a last ditch attempt I tried orange oil and it worked better than the rest.Still needs some decent scrubbing and then a wash to remove the oil from the surface but it did not affect the paint on my frame and did a really good deep clean of the surface too.Sadly orange or citrus oil also eats my eraser sponge, so no combination here but at least it cleans in a reasonable time without damage.But please do a spot check first before you try it on a full door ;)And as said, I can't tell if it works the same for all the many types of hair spray out there.

    1+!Eraser sponges are great here.The key is to have many and not to use too much water while applying only light pressure.I used hairspray in the beginning of my 3D printing period and have to say it can be a pain to remove if you can't use a scraper, steel wool or aggressive solvents.But funny enough in many cases just really hot, soapy water did the trick, never had to try it on painted surfaces though.

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  • I tried similar some years ago but was not too happy with the process or outcome.Be it plain wood or something like MDF, you have to use dry polishing compounds and cleaning the surface out was a true pain in the behind.So I misused the wheel for a while longer with some sandpaper glued onto it.Worked really good for a blade I had with a hollow edge, you know like the old razor blades...Would love to get my hands on some real sharpening and honing wheels, even if they are just 20cm in diameter.They cost far too much though and finer grit than lets say 600 is next to impossible to get outside Japan and rural India.When I was a kid we had an old bloke coming through town twice a year.He offered the lond dead services of sharpening your knifes, sizzors and chisels for little money.I watche...

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    I tried similar some years ago but was not too happy with the process or outcome.Be it plain wood or something like MDF, you have to use dry polishing compounds and cleaning the surface out was a true pain in the behind.So I misused the wheel for a while longer with some sandpaper glued onto it.Worked really good for a blade I had with a hollow edge, you know like the old razor blades...Would love to get my hands on some real sharpening and honing wheels, even if they are just 20cm in diameter.They cost far too much though and finer grit than lets say 600 is next to impossible to get outside Japan and rural India.When I was a kid we had an old bloke coming through town twice a year.He offered the lond dead services of sharpening your knifes, sizzors and chisels for little money.I watched him many times but never figured out how he got the knife so sharp so quickly.To me it looked like he is just touching the foot operated wet wheels and the mgic happened.He gave me one secret of his trade though:Keep your fine slurry!His words were that once boiled with water and dried it makes the perfect compound to put on a leather belt for honing knifes.I only tried it a few times as I just don't enough slurry anymore thanks to diamond tools.But the stuff acts quite weird in a good way.Over time it makes its way deep into the leaer and the constant drying causes a very hard surface where the edge does not sink in anymore.And of course you need a bunch of old belts as you can't use different grades of slurry on the same belt.

    Yesterday I watched my neighbour trying to sharpen a small axe with one of these "sharpening tools" advertised on TV.You know the stuff: Hardened steel blocks at a V-angle and you pull the blade or here the axe through.He did not seem to be too impressed and once he started swearing and throwing the sharpener around I went for a chat.Turned out his axe was not only blunt as but also the receiving end of some objects that you should not hit.Imagine it looked like a kid tried to use an angle grinder to cause a serrated edge.Offered some help by taking the rotten thing to my bench grinder, follwed by the belt sander.Lets just say this ancient old axa was good quality and work hardened over the many years of service.My grinding wheel got dressed nicely in the process LOLAnyways, a...

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    Yesterday I watched my neighbour trying to sharpen a small axe with one of these "sharpening tools" advertised on TV.You know the stuff: Hardened steel blocks at a V-angle and you pull the blade or here the axe through.He did not seem to be too impressed and once he started swearing and throwing the sharpener around I went for a chat.Turned out his axe was not only blunt as but also the receiving end of some objects that you should not hit.Imagine it looked like a kid tried to use an angle grinder to cause a serrated edge.Offered some help by taking the rotten thing to my bench grinder, follwed by the belt sander.Lets just say this ancient old axa was good quality and work hardened over the many years of service.My grinding wheel got dressed nicely in the process LOLAnyways, about an hour later I was back to my neighbour and tried to explain to him how to use his fancy sharpener the right way.Here is the outcome:Start close to one end of the axe edge and by giving the tool a slight angle and pull it along with LITTLE pressure.Not like you would with a stone, more like getting butter on your toast.After a few strokes turn the axe around so you get and even edge.What these TV guys won't tell you is that these types of sharpening tools are really no good for a worn blade.As it is hard steel or better something like carbide, they need a really smooth edge to work on.Bumps, nicks and cracks like from trying to cut some wire will cause the tool to jump.And like corrogations on the road it will get only worse.Sure in good hands it is pssible to deal with this but there are better ways.As a finnishing tool to keep work blades "sharp" they are not bad though.Like said already: Do it often and do it right ;)After about half an hour we could see the edge getting nice and shiny and despite me having used a slightly wrong angle we got to the point where the edge started to show really good.Sadly even once I tried for a while it was impossible to cut some paper clean.The axe was so hard that the sharpening too caused a lot of micro fractures right on the tip of the edge.Like the burr from normal sharpening standing up.So I went to grab my find diamond file to finnish the edge...Personally I don't like these "easy to use" tools not very much unless they come in a sturdy frame and not as a tiny hand tool.Too hard to use otherwise without causing a wobble along the edge.

    I like that idea!Should have thought about a cardboard wheel ages ago for the touch ups :(Sturdier than a polishing wheel and better to handle than a polishing stone....

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  • From my experience this only works well if you add a little bit of PVC dust or shavings as well and mix it really well.Using some PVC in the mix (about 30%) for the first few coats allows for a proper bonding.ABS has slightly different properties and in a direct mix it can cause a brittle layer between the PVC and ABS.Once the wire is fully coated a pure ABS slurry can be used for coloring in and getting a thick enough insulation layer on top.

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  • Downunder35m commented on DonS165's forum topic Looking for help with making a coils 2 months ago

    After another thought it might be good to give some additional info on the general design of these rodin coils.It might help you and others to understand some points that need to be considered:The idea behind such designs is to create a magnectic field with some unique properties.One key design element is that all needs to be even and uniform.If you would look into the donut in the second pic above you would see that the Litz wire is touching on the inside, while there is some spacing on the outside of the donut.The number of turns or better spirals in either direction should always be part of the Fibonacci sequence.All this means that your minor donut diameter is determinded by the wire diameter AND how many turns you need to make to comple the sequence.The major diameter should be suc...

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    After another thought it might be good to give some additional info on the general design of these rodin coils.It might help you and others to understand some points that need to be considered:The idea behind such designs is to create a magnectic field with some unique properties.One key design element is that all needs to be even and uniform.If you would look into the donut in the second pic above you would see that the Litz wire is touching on the inside, while there is some spacing on the outside of the donut.The number of turns or better spirals in either direction should always be part of the Fibonacci sequence.All this means that your minor donut diameter is determinded by the wire diameter AND how many turns you need to make to comple the sequence.The major diameter should be such that the wire spacing on the outside is not more than three times the wire diameter.To calculate these values requires a quite decent understanding of geometry and how to simplify the calculations.For example:If you want 34 turns on the first round of winding (the inner cage) then you could see these as a piece of pipe that needs to fit into the donut.Wire diameter times 34 equals the central diameter LENGTH of the pipe.From this length you can use basic formulas to get the radius or actual diameter.Add the wire diameter once more and you get the outer diameter of such an imaginary pipe.With a few mm extra you should have enough room now for your 35 windings.A good way of guesstimation to find the right ring diameter for your donut is to multiply the minor diameter by 2 to 2.5.All this can not be too small though; That is why the pipe imagination for the windings helps.For most beginners it is really hard to find the right distance between inner and outer coils.Same for how many turns to use.So keep the fibonacci sequence in mind ;)In this example you would want 55 turns or spirals on the outer winding.And by knowing this already you can use the same math to get the diameters you need ;)Of course people not always stick to the Fibonacci or other natural sequences to design their coils - it is still all expimental after all....In any case you should base your calculations so that on the inner diameter the wres are basically touching.To increase some coil properties builders often aim to use winding numbers that allow for an even spacing.So the only add a few turns to make the inner parts of the windings touch each other.Other builders aim for an even spacing between the two coils throughout - like in your 3D printed example.Here is a little exercise trick that helps to get a feeling for the winding patterns and how to get a nice symmetry into it:Take some nice cord, I prefer the standard paracord here.Make a little loop and start looping the cord around this.You will notice that when doing this really tight you get a lot of windings around but it will be very hard to keep it all under control and even.Going quite loose however and you will see the cord offers you a direction to go, the angle is always the same.You will also notice that you now can keep going around with your spiral turns and that you go from a single loop configuration to a double and after the next completed round to a triple.If you starting loop was close enough to a perfect match the last round will complete the inner ring to a full and closely wound "ring".If you try to keep the outer windings close to each other you will notice the strand pattern you also see on some rodin coil designs.You can do this with a plastic donut or ring too and after just a few times of doing this you get a feeling for what looks right and what does not when winding.Might save you a few hours of frustrating calculations and actual wire winding.

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  • Downunder35m commented on nedwired's forum topic Archives2 months ago

    In many cases it might be easier to ask the almighty Google for help.A search for some keywords you know with this added in the search bar should quickly bring what you need:Example:LED cube site:www.instructables.comThis makes Google search for "led cube" on all pages that have www.instructables.com in the address.You can try the example by clicking here: http://bfy.tw/KE6X

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  • Downunder35m commented on DonS165's forum topic Looking for help with making a coils 2 months ago

    The spacers are pritable, not the coil itself.The first rodin coils were just made on donut shaped plastic rings or these polystyrene rins used for artwork and dcorations.If you really need to work with spacers as above then one option is to simply print the design out and then use a fine saw or good knife to cut it out thin chipboard or similar.Before you worry on how to make winding tamplate you should worry about the Litz wire ;)Even a small coil can use several meters of it...All must match in the right dimensions too....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Servantwind's forum topic Run a generator with a motor2 months ago

    Old lawnmover motor, smal motorbike engine....all you need is enough torque to make the generator spin and maybe a pulley system to match the required RPM.Most generators also have a speed control to keep the RPMs even and steady throughout load changes, makes sense to incorporate this as well.

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  • It does not matter, only the value in Ohm matters.You are not dealing with the power here, the potentiometer only provides a value for the electronics at a very low current level.So pick whatever potentiometer has the right prices, sizes and looks as long as the resistance in Ohm is what you need. ;)

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  • LOL found a so far undocumented use for the stuff: Algae infested plumbing from your fish tank.I have quite long hoses connected to my filter and cleaning them is always a pain as no brush is long enough.Usually I soak them in the bath tub with some dishwashing liquid and really hot water.And then comes the fun game of forcing some foam balls through without creating a total mess....This morning I had to clean the filter and a cloe look showed the hoses are overdue too.While I cleaned the filter I soaked the hoses the same old way but added about 2 teaspoons of the shining powder.After the filter some breakfast, so I guess the hoses were soaking for about 90 minutes...When I checked the first thing I noticed was that the hoses felt really slimy without having any slime on them.Almost li...

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    LOL found a so far undocumented use for the stuff: Algae infested plumbing from your fish tank.I have quite long hoses connected to my filter and cleaning them is always a pain as no brush is long enough.Usually I soak them in the bath tub with some dishwashing liquid and really hot water.And then comes the fun game of forcing some foam balls through without creating a total mess....This morning I had to clean the filter and a cloe look showed the hoses are overdue too.While I cleaned the filter I soaked the hoses the same old way but added about 2 teaspoons of the shining powder.After the filter some breakfast, so I guess the hoses were soaking for about 90 minutes...When I checked the first thing I noticed was that the hoses felt really slimy without having any slime on them.Almost like oiled up.A first flush from the tap already removed more material than what I was used to.But the spongue balls went through much easier too and removed the algae almost like a plunger.Only downside was that I had to use several rounds of flushing with clean balls and wiping the outside.The stuff might be safe on my hands but I still did want any residue in my tank.With that result in mind I tried the door for the shower.Old filthy thing in need of replacement but rust is of not much concern for landlords around here LOLThe glass cleaned up really easy with a spongue and about a teaspoon ina glass of water.You know how these calcium deposits cause a crunching sound when cleaning over them?Well, the sound goes away quite quickly :)Still looks ugly and rusted as but at least the glass is squeeky clean again ROFLWill see how it goes as a car wash next LOOOOOL

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  • It would be nice to close your other question if you abandonedit already ;)Looks like you fell for the same culprit in the map function as I did some years ago.Depending on the IDE you use the map function the code will use an updated version.The documenttion for this is hard to find as most examples online IMHO just confuse here.Currently you assign a value to "potPin".The range you use is from 0 to 1023 for the input and you want to convert this to 1 - 5 as the value for potPin.In many cass it is ctually suficient to limit the input range to 255 instead of using higher value.But that should only matter once you need to save on ram nd timing things.I hope I am guessing correctly that you don't want to install another IDE until you find one that works with your code...So keep ...

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    It would be nice to close your other question if you abandonedit already ;)Looks like you fell for the same culprit in the map function as I did some years ago.Depending on the IDE you use the map function the code will use an updated version.The documenttion for this is hard to find as most examples online IMHO just confuse here.Currently you assign a value to "potPin".The range you use is from 0 to 1023 for the input and you want to convert this to 1 - 5 as the value for potPin.In many cass it is ctually suficient to limit the input range to 255 instead of using higher value.But that should only matter once you need to save on ram nd timing things.I hope I am guessing correctly that you don't want to install another IDE until you find one that works with your code...So keep your map function somewhere in the back of the head!Once you start using a diferent version of the IDE you might need his way instead of the one that should work for your IDE.To make it work for you it should suffice to change the placement of your values.The map function you use should work with (x, low input, low output, hig input, high output)So map(potPin, 0, 1, 1023, 5)But you can always do it by using standard math:potPin=(input value X max output)/max inputFrom what I see however you try to make it too simple and this can result in a wrong interpretation of values.If you work with analog or decimal input values than it makes sense to seperate all by using indepent names for themSo what ou read from the potentiometer should be assigned to lets say "potPin".Once you do math with it a good practice is to use another variable for this task.For example by assining "potVal" the same number as "potPin".So far so good :)But have you considered to use "potVal" for the mapping instead of "potPin"? ;)You also strt the mapping before actally having read any input values.Another good pactise is to define "sane" values for your variables in the setup part.Until real values are read these dummies provide the base for otherwise impossible calculations ;)In case just changing the order of your values in the map function works you might want to consider updating to the latest version of the IDE.Over time you might collect the most common versions, especially when you start using code from the web that constantly gives you error messages.Some code and functions only work with a specific IDE versio, so if code is confirmed to complie correctly but on your end and without modifications it fails: try a different IDE version for it ;)

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  • A quick Google search showed this apart from many more results:https://www.instructables.com/topics/I-need-arduin...

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  • Depends on what type the thermometer supports.The standard type is K with 10K Ohm resistance.Problem is that in many cases you won't know what exatc type was used in your printer or how the readings are compensated and corrected.If your thermometer offers a calibration mode then try it, otherwise you can only confirm the readings with known temps.Like 0 for water with ice in it and 100°C for boiling hot water.Most sensors are also often optimised for a specific temp region.Only one way to find out ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on huongrio's forum topic Going to sleep with HP monitor2 months ago

    The monitor only turns off if there is no signal.If it stays on when putting the PC into sleep mode then either the PC is not hibernating or the graphics card won't shut down during hibernation.There is nothing you can change through cables, keyboard or such.Could be as simple as outdated drivers....

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  • Jack already posted pics further down ;)But I guess it would have been of little help as it is a polishing and not a grinding powder.Everything that once had a nice shine and polish is good material for it.But not so much something you just created that needs sanding and manual labour first.Sorry mate but in this case you still need elbow grease.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Split Tesla coils anyone?!2 months ago

    I am still waiting for the last few parts to start building my coil winder :(Today I got lucky on the scrap yard by getting a 5kg roll or copper wire for just 20 bucks.Although copper is quite soft, this wire is almost a mm thick and made me rethink my winder approach.Even at coil lenghts of only about 75cm and diameters of max 100mm (for this design anyway), the motor needs to have some torque.When checking the Nema17's on my printer in a direct drive configuration the torque is really low and certainly not enough to wind 1mm wire onto a 100mm or bigger tube.Then there is the problem of eliminating bends and kinks along the way without changing the wire tension too much.For thicker wire a simple clutch break that applies even tension will suffice but for thinner wire this can cause bre...

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    I am still waiting for the last few parts to start building my coil winder :(Today I got lucky on the scrap yard by getting a 5kg roll or copper wire for just 20 bucks.Although copper is quite soft, this wire is almost a mm thick and made me rethink my winder approach.Even at coil lenghts of only about 75cm and diameters of max 100mm (for this design anyway), the motor needs to have some torque.When checking the Nema17's on my printer in a direct drive configuration the torque is really low and certainly not enough to wind 1mm wire onto a 100mm or bigger tube.Then there is the problem of eliminating bends and kinks along the way without changing the wire tension too much.For thicker wire a simple clutch break that applies even tension will suffice but for thinner wire this can cause breaks.Although I don't plan on using hair thin wires I think it might pay off to allow for a motorised and sensor controlled spool unwinding.After checking various designs here and on other websites it seems that so far all winders are either highly speciliased or dead simple.The best I found so far was a "4D winder" to make your own carbon fibre pressure vessels in bottle form.If I invest a considerable amount of time and money to build a machine to a job for me than at least I like this macine to be as versatile as possible.In the most simple form you might just want a straight winder.Some however would like to make their own transformer or even a radio coil in basket form.For me this means the heart of it would be the controller.Re-inventing the wheel is something NASA and a well know tire company already do but simply snatching some code blocks from CNC or printer solutions is not much easier.From my early printer experiments I noticed that things like accelleration control can badly affect positioning.Same for fancy stuff like trying to perferom step counts in sync with CPU timings.For a long and tightly wound coil you simply can't afford any missed or miscalculated steps for the thing that moves the wire along.An error of just 2% can mean disaster on a long coil.And if you are like me and need more than standard then things like variable pitch and winding based on the actual length of the wire can be important.For your switch mode power supply project you might need to use Litz wire and stick to a certain spacing...Well, being able to quickly create some fibreglass pipes might come in handy one day too...The hardware part is quite easy but the coding will be a nightmare.Especially later things like reversing the direction with a set spacing between the turns.How exactly do you stop a wire from slipping if there is nothing to hold it when you change direction? ;)Starting to consider taking some pics along the way so if it works good I can make an Instructable from it.

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  • We don't have stuff like this available outside shops that sell only in bulk to restaurants bars and such.But I read some good reviews about it.Love your micro tumbler!! :)After some more tests on various metal surfaces I still try to figure how these Indians came up with the recipe.It definately does not affect my sensitve hands, nor does it have enough abrasives in it.Sure if used as a poweder on a wet spongue there is some mild abresive action but the suff still works after all has settled to the bottom of a yar.All I can think of is a very clever way of ion exchange.Brass seems to confirm this as after prolonged submersion the parts get a slight copper shine.Same for zink - don't ever try this stuff on some ornametal plates, cups or such!It cleans of the oxide really well but turns ...

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    We don't have stuff like this available outside shops that sell only in bulk to restaurants bars and such.But I read some good reviews about it.Love your micro tumbler!! :)After some more tests on various metal surfaces I still try to figure how these Indians came up with the recipe.It definately does not affect my sensitve hands, nor does it have enough abrasives in it.Sure if used as a poweder on a wet spongue there is some mild abresive action but the suff still works after all has settled to the bottom of a yar.All I can think of is a very clever way of ion exchange.Brass seems to confirm this as after prolonged submersion the parts get a slight copper shine.Same for zink - don't ever try this stuff on some ornametal plates, cups or such!It cleans of the oxide really well but turns the metal into a dull black.And that black is a true pain to remove, so better polish zink the old fashioned way with elbow grease.Will have to try one day if it would help to improve the outcome of galvanised or plated parts if added to the bath in small amounts.Aluminium, as mentioned, is not easy all the time either.Some tests on old anodized parts showed that too much action or time will remove the colored layer and the oxides completely.Might be good if you want to do cleaning and oxide removal in one step for a new anodising process but otherwise....Plain aluminium like for kitchen ware, car or motorbike parts come out nice.That is if you don't mind getting black hands in the process.Downside is that if you go to a mirror finnish again the protective oxide layer will be gone.A few days kept dry and out of harms way should be enough to create a suffient layer.I can not recommend standard polish or wax right after either.Here you could end up with a protective layer that if distrubed will cause corrosion on the aluminium.Better let it oxidise a bit in air.Stainless steel, as said should be free from oxidisation and corrosion anyway.IMHO the polishing action here is so low that only the cleaning action counts.A dedicated scrubber to polish stainless steel pots does a quicker and less mess job here.Mabye the stuff is even good to store copper nano particles in a aquaeous solution !?

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  • That was your best idea!M3 is a true pain in aluminium already, especially the better grades.Even for that I prefer to make a little rig that won't allow any movement of the tap.A tiny wobble, twitch or second of distraction and they snap right off you.M2 is something that even I struggle with and I only use such small screws in materials I deem soft enough to tap by hand.Extracting one that is broken off inside the hole is next to impossible without loosing your sanity.I had some luck with three pieces of piano wire going through three holes placed like the slots on the tap.But if broken off by twisting while bending this won't work as the tap is now jammed into the material.The only thing I know that works here is a sensitve drill press and a left hand extraction drill.But those hard ...

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    That was your best idea!M3 is a true pain in aluminium already, especially the better grades.Even for that I prefer to make a little rig that won't allow any movement of the tap.A tiny wobble, twitch or second of distraction and they snap right off you.M2 is something that even I struggle with and I only use such small screws in materials I deem soft enough to tap by hand.Extracting one that is broken off inside the hole is next to impossible without loosing your sanity.I had some luck with three pieces of piano wire going through three holes placed like the slots on the tap.But if broken off by twisting while bending this won't work as the tap is now jammed into the material.The only thing I know that works here is a sensitve drill press and a left hand extraction drill.But those hard enough to not just handle srews but also taps would cost you more than the entire job you now sorted out by professionals.For better results try my way of making tiny tapped holes:Get a drill set with fine increments, so for eample from 1mm to 5mm in 0.1mm steps.Use some PVC, like from a downpipe, flatten it after heating and use this soft material for test runs.Against commonbelief soft materials like plastic or aluminium can be much harder to tap than steel.The material tends to curl up instead of breaking.For M2 start with a 1.6mm hole, preferable with a drill press to keep it straight and the diameter even.Make sure to go through slowly enough to not melt any material - you want the plastic come out in a nice string.Now try to tap it without oil or lube, PVC is great here ;)It should go fairly easy but if you look at the finnished cut with a magnifying glass you might see the thread is not properly formed.If so try again but do less backturns with the tool.Get a feeling how much material is building up and then turn it out completely to clean and go again.Now you should see a much better formed thread but you might lack some detail.Try again with a 1.7mm hole and to guide the tap use a few spins by hand with a bigger drill to smooth the top of the hole.If you now (using the last way of cleaning instead of just breaking the cut material) get a thread that looks just fine try a screw in it.It should hold reasonably well considering the soft plastic.You can dare to go go 1.8mm in PVC but it should be fine with 1.7mm.Aluminium is a different beast and here the prefered drill size is 1.6mm for a 0.4mm pitch and 1.55mm for a 0.45mm pitch.Using 1.65mm for the first mm of the hole will make the start of the tapping much easier, if you can afford a mm.I prefer sweing machine oil for these tiny jobs.So fill the hole and wet the tap and use the same extraction technique as on the PVC.If in doubt take it out ;)Every time you do, clean out the hole and fill it with oil again.If through hole use a piece of sticky tape to cover the underside.As soon as you feel too much tension you take the tap back a quarter of a turn.Try again and if still too much tension to half a turn back.In case you already made three full turns you might have to take it out already, especially during the deeper parts of the tapping.

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  • If you don't mind black...Go to a rubber and foam place or look around.There are several types of high density "foam" sheets available for the use in simple gaskets, vibration damper or sound dampening.Measure the width of your gasket.Measure the minor diameter.Transfer the width and minor diameter to a shet of cardboard and use it as a template to cut the ring out of the new foam.It won't fit and look ugly sticking out, so let's fix this too shall we?Put the pot into something big enough so you can suberse it really hot water - using gloves is a good idea here.Press the lid on under water, do it slowly as it is not that easy to get water out ;)Once firmly in place keep pressure on the lid and take it out of the hot bath.All should be really hot to touch if not leave in longe...

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    If you don't mind black...Go to a rubber and foam place or look around.There are several types of high density "foam" sheets available for the use in simple gaskets, vibration damper or sound dampening.Measure the width of your gasket.Measure the minor diameter.Transfer the width and minor diameter to a shet of cardboard and use it as a template to cut the ring out of the new foam.It won't fit and look ugly sticking out, so let's fix this too shall we?Put the pot into something big enough so you can suberse it really hot water - using gloves is a good idea here.Press the lid on under water, do it slowly as it is not that easy to get water out ;)Once firmly in place keep pressure on the lid and take it out of the hot bath.All should be really hot to touch if not leave in longer so the ceramic get to water temperature.Put aside with some weight on the lid and let fully cool down to room temp.You can speed up by spraying with cold water if you are in a hurry and know the pot will tolerate the temperature shock.Once cooled you should have a fairly good fitting seal that will get into better shape after a few weeks of use.

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  • Downunder35m commented on bilesl's forum topic Right glue for the job2 months ago

    Shoe glue is a common name for a contact glue that you can get dirt cheap in many shops.But only good for small areas.If you need to patch up a bigger piece go to your hardware store ans ask for vinyl glue that is water based.Small packs are available too.Just spread it out like tile adhesive in a thin layer and press the vinyl on.Correct the fit and wipe excess off with a damp cloth if some comes through the joint areas.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's instructable Air Powered Spinning Top3 months ago
    Air Powered Spinning Top

    Added another download link as it seems still next to impossible to embed links directly into Instructables.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's instructable Air Powered Spinning Top3 months ago
    Air Powered Spinning Top

    The file downloads and unpacks correctly here.Might I suggest to try the download again and if in doubt to use a different program to unpack the files?Zip files should be directly supported by most operating systems, so you should also be able to open the Zip directly with the Windows Explorer for example.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Split Tesla coils anyone?!3 months ago

    For me it is not abut big sparks as they are just wasted energy.We already use wireless charging for ages but I would like to go back to more reach and more efficieny.Well, the later more in terms of what power can be taken from the system at a distance, not so much to be able to get 100% of the energy out I put in to run it ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Split Tesla coils anyone?!3 months ago

    There wouldn't be an easy to use simulator for electromagnetic coils available?Something as simple as entering coil diameter, wire spacing, number of turns/layers so you get a visualisation of the magnetic field?

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Split Tesla coils anyone?!3 months ago

    Hey! I thought you wouldn't be here anymore :)But no, let me try to explain:A standard Tesla coil has one primary with just a few turns and one secondary with 700 - 1500 turns.What I would like to do is to split the secondary coil into two seperate coils.Resulting in a shorter secondary than the normal type plus another secondary with about the same diamter as the primary coil.The big secondary is grounded on one side and the other coneects to the second secondary.If in doubt check the drawing from patent number 119782 belonging to Nikola tesla.Only difference would be that my second or inner secondary would be more like a barrel and not long as in the patent.

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