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50Instructables664,123Views6,078CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • If cleaning alone won't work, try some of the first 10 hits from here.http://bfy.tw/Mmkm

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic The Newman Motor Challenge !2 days ago

    That is why I am making a small 3D printed model ;)Basic 8mm smooth rod from printer left overs, two bearings, bobbins for coils and of course a holder for the magnets.Allows for easy building and gives still the freedom to tinker a bit.Will have to some tests if with PLA the bearings are really necessary, should be good enough without.Anyone who can 3D print somehow can then just do their own little tests.Won't have any fancy shielding or such, just the plain basics.More might come when I have time to update the general model I have.

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  • Start by just measuring the resistence of the affected button in comparison to the working ones.I suspect that the same rubber and graphite combo is used as on the remote.If the resistance on the working buttons is quite low but extreme high on the faulty ones:Take the pads off and clean both surface carefully with soapy water - preferably in a controlled way like using cotton buds or similar.Test again and if still no good check the tutorials on how to repair faulty buttons on remote controls - or ask here again ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic The Newman Motor Challenge !3 days ago

    What's it really about with the 2020 version?Some "fringe scientists" a long time ago stated that an AC motor is actually just a really, really bad DC motor.If only gets its efficiency from the fact that the electromagnetic field is rotating.Their theory is that it is nothing than a rotating electromagnet.And those can be far more efficient than anything AC.If you check the magnetic fields from a standard Newman Motor's permanent magnet then it is the same as any other magnet.At least for the official drawings.The real deal did not use such a simple configuration but instead has several magnets aligned to produced a choked field.In essence a ring magnet with another magnet inside that is of opposing polarity but weaker than the rest.The resulting "dome is then flattened q...

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    What's it really about with the 2020 version?Some "fringe scientists" a long time ago stated that an AC motor is actually just a really, really bad DC motor.If only gets its efficiency from the fact that the electromagnetic field is rotating.Their theory is that it is nothing than a rotating electromagnet.And those can be far more efficient than anything AC.If you check the magnetic fields from a standard Newman Motor's permanent magnet then it is the same as any other magnet.At least for the official drawings.The real deal did not use such a simple configuration but instead has several magnets aligned to produced a choked field.In essence a ring magnet with another magnet inside that is of opposing polarity but weaker than the rest.The resulting "dome is then flattened quite a bit and the field strength is at a max where the coils are.Take a meter and check yourself - on the edges your permanent magnet has a much stronger field.You can only do so much choking and shielding on a hobby level....But imagine the created field lines are flat enough to allow 3 more coil sets without interfering.Then the main arguement would be that we have three additional drains on the battery/capacitor...Is that so?You see in the original design, that everyone follows, the battery only activates once per revolution.As it is quite easily possible to add another battery and set of conection we could and should actually work like a double piston system.Why just use the push once if we can use two batteries and a push at both magnet positions? ;)You might say now because that other impulse we get from the reversed field without contact will charge the capacitor.Again: The battery only connects at the contact point.Means that revers pulse is totally unused!The second battery not only provides twice the torque but also a more uniform "pushing" - like having one person pushing you either side on a swing.The worst critics say Newman did exactly that with a hidden and quite powerful battery...With the same principle we could place four more coils into the gaps.And even with just a simple diode recitifier stack we would get some nice output going.The key is to use fast diodes so the short impulse through the contacts can be fully utilised.And of course you will need a suitable energy storage system capable of handling high current impulses, like the upcoming graphene batteries."Big Eureka" was running at quite low speeds for obvious reasons, like that such home made stuff simply is not balanced enough.It also used normal batteries that can't really handle quick impulses very well.Our modern alternatives do much better here.In all videos you see that the RPM's go along with the battery voltage.And it seems there no relation as such to the current drawn in return.A normal motor requires more and more amps the faster it runs, Newmans did not.To apply some vortex ideas and out of the law thinking we need to go one step further though.Some people really like to play with high voltages, so a Tesla coil might be something you already played with, or one of these plasma balls.The simple ones use basic oscillators.And if those are tuned to the RESONANT frequency of the coil then the magic happens with long arcs of fun.Hold on a minute....We have a coil and a capacitor.So we might have some LC oscillator...Too bad we have those pesky contacts and no freely swinging oscillator...But we could use the additional coils and matching capacitors for this.And if we drive the input voltage so we match the resonant frequency of our newly created LC oscillators....The the critic of course has to reply: "You will slow the motor down because the megnetic field from the oscillators will interfere with it!"I say: "Will it?"In reality the field from the magnet will affect them much worse - or would the oscillators in resonance actually support it? ;)Think about the facts of using multiple harmonics from different energy sources!In resonance the additional coils create a rotating electromagnetic field.And this field is in sync with the rotor.A shielded magnet will not be affected by this rotating field.As long as the rest of the system acts like an air core transformer we only need to get enough RPM to make it into frequencies commonly used for Tesla coils...A good engineer could then go as far as to add a rotating ring of magnets on the outside of the coils to generate an even higher magnetic flux from the permanent magnets on the inner rotor.Like commonly used for hard drives or the generators i wind mills.Newman officially did not usitlise any of the above.Instead he even claimed it would not improve the performance at all.This was based on his theory of sinning "particles" in the magnetic field of permanent magnets.The system would only work if the coils would be free.If Newmans motor really had the efficiency those old engineers in the original videos claimed it had, than how much higher would it be if fully modified?Maybe Newman simply did not dare to go that far as then a motor without a load would spinout of control quickly.And how would you explain to someone that you have no issues breaking our known laws of physics? ;)Since we operate in resonance the coils wouldn't really need to have have massive wire diameters.Litz wire will do just fine for a small model and copper piping for a bigger model.The limit is really only set by how far you can go with your magnets and tolerances.And far here in terms of real distance for the magnetic field.Like any big generator in the real world you would need to upsize the magnet according to your coil diameter.Vortex stuff comes into play when you consider the relations between all fields and rotation of the system as whole.The coils must be within the region of maximum flux.So, the thickness of our donut ring is limited by this.If you max this out AND have the ability to also max the resulting electromagnetic pulse, then even I currently fail to even imagine the efficiency of such a system.Why the powered axle??It would be as easy to use some insulator and a contact finger like on old car ignition systems.Battery contact on one side, the coil contact on the other.Well, this secret can only be found if you dig much deeper and into older inventions.Or if you check modern ingnition coils, the ones that go directly onto your spark plug.The core is supported by strong magnets on either end and creates a long rod magnet.The generated impulse then must first "pull" down the pre-charged coil, preferably to the point where the geerated field in the primary equals the one from the permanent magnets.When it collpses the core "pushes" back and increases the speed of the field change and the overall field strength.And you get a much more powerfull spark from a tiny coil than what you could ever get out of a standard , full sized old style coil.Newmans theory was now that by getting the battery power through the axle the impulse from the coil will add energy to it in the same way but "reversed".It magnetises the axle.And this magnetisation is often overlooked in modern copies.There is a reason a Newman Motor won't work if you spin it in the other direction ;)For us and any decent sized motor it is the ultimate limitation.The axle must be able to allow a shortcut for the field without getting saturated.Final questions for the geeks:Considering the field from the magnet at the point of contact, how would the resulting field in the axle look like?And how would electrons travel in such a twisted field considering they start to travel at the creation of the impulse from the coil?If it works in one direction for an ignition coil, than what would be consequences for the current- and voltage flow in the axle?Physics tells us we can not accelerate electrons in a conductor, they always travel at the speed of light.But do they really follow that rule all the time?And if we consider the coil would be like like one half of a transformer and the axle the other then we would get quite some high currents and a very low voltage....So what again would happen to a magnetic field if a conductor in it has a current flowing through it?Right, the field of our permanent magnet is now affected and twisted as well...Calculate that spin and the resulting twist and funny enough you end up with the geometry for a Rodin coil...I leave it up to you to find out if a rodin coil around a Newman 2020 motor would produce electricity and at what power levels.

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  • Check Theromofisher,com for example...

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  • As already said so nicely you only need common ground.Without batteries a capacitor or LC combo is only required if the power supply has a bad output quality.Wiring and coding examples can be found in the Arduino Playground - just ask Google and then check the many available example for your needs.

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  • Downunder35m commented on thecountrychick's forum topic Plans4 days ago

    If you mean something more detailed or complete than the Instructable you found then chances are low.All can be downloaded as a PDF but it still only contains what you see on the screen anyway.

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  • That actually still works on the neodymium ones.Partially that is.If you heat them up the loose it, but if placed hot between two other strong magnets they get magnetized again.

    Quite old in terms of the original video but it shows how complicated energy really is...

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  • Just use a reed contact and magnet ;)Like for these speedos on push bikes.Any moving part on the driveline will do.Just don't mount the magnet close to the ABS discs if your car already has ABS.Readout gives one impulse or "closed" contact per revolution.If mounted on some axle then the same calculations as for these bike speedos apply in terms of wheel diameter and turn ratios.Of course you can just a GPS and read out the impulses per second or millisecond at a fixed speed and go from there.Another neat way is a a magnet mounted where the speedo cable originates.What is easier depends on locations and accessebility of course.

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  • Downunder35m commented on pmk222's forum topic Flexible arm material5 days ago

    Look at monitor or TV mounts with an arm, the good ones come with a "ball" mount.Basically just a pot with a hole that is a bit smaller than the ball.The pressure from the screws on the plat fixes it in place - or keeps it slightly movable for adjustments.Should be possible to make one if you don't want to buy one.

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  • Before you going into things consider that the distance from the head to the paper is not much more than what the paper is thick.A shoe is far from flar or even, so you would need something like whats used in the industry to make the date stamps on bottles or cans.But those only know one color and a few pixel.Have a look at water painting, ebro art and such.Here the picture is create or placed on water, the part then submerged through that paint layer.Takes the paint and it goes all way around no matter the shape.Easiest approch however would be to make some stencils and to use a fine airbrush gun ;)

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  • Not sure if it is feasable for your project but:Back in the day I had a similar problem on a machine, different production though...For us the main problem was that the sensors failed far too early as the problem exceeded the specs for the enviroment.Was about 20 sensors later until a combined brainstorming of people having no clue about it found the solution.Final solution was construct a "bypass pipe".Basically the air to be monitored was pumped through long pipe loop.The sensor was mounted where the inside temp was low enough for the sensor to operate properly while still high enough to prevent any condensation.For just humidity though it is also possible to use ceramic sensor plates.Basically just some metal strips close to each other with the ceramic being like a absorben...

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    Not sure if it is feasable for your project but:Back in the day I had a similar problem on a machine, different production though...For us the main problem was that the sensors failed far too early as the problem exceeded the specs for the enviroment.Was about 20 sensors later until a combined brainstorming of people having no clue about it found the solution.Final solution was construct a "bypass pipe".Basically the air to be monitored was pumped through long pipe loop.The sensor was mounted where the inside temp was low enough for the sensor to operate properly while still high enough to prevent any condensation.For just humidity though it is also possible to use ceramic sensor plates.Basically just some metal strips close to each other with the ceramic being like a absorbent sponge.Only problem is that most of them are not linear and quite costly.

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  • By "supressing" I mean that the few real ones are flodded by the amount of fake ones.And I remember the times where people used their own song collections to provide music, now even your radio playing in the background can cause a take down.Still tons of definately copyrighted videos are out there, TV shows, documentaries and so on.A lot is "tolerated" as long as it brings views.I can't upload y video that conatains about 15 sec of a song playing the radio in the kitchen but some older ones that contain full songs are still online.Comes down to the algorithms, same for flipping videos to avoid detection as a copy.Try it ;) Take a popular video that you can not reupload as a copy, crop one side a few pixels then mirror it vertically - the upload will be accepted LOLTh...

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    By "supressing" I mean that the few real ones are flodded by the amount of fake ones.And I remember the times where people used their own song collections to provide music, now even your radio playing in the background can cause a take down.Still tons of definately copyrighted videos are out there, TV shows, documentaries and so on.A lot is "tolerated" as long as it brings views.I can't upload y video that conatains about 15 sec of a song playing the radio in the kitchen but some older ones that contain full songs are still online.Comes down to the algorithms, same for flipping videos to avoid detection as a copy.Try it ;) Take a popular video that you can not reupload as a copy, crop one side a few pixels then mirror it vertically - the upload will be accepted LOLThe ads are another story though.There is days when it seems to be impossible to watch any video without first getting an ad, especially when using the client and not the browser.Sure, really not everything qualifies for an ad but I also had 1 minute videos without ads that still required me to watch 10 secs of ad before it even started.Location again I guss as friends overseas report different findings or worse depending on the country or proxy used.And funny enough there is still some good guys out there who post long videos and reject any ads being shown, no matter the view count.Thing is though Youtube is Google and search works quite similar.Finding a video that does exist but had little interest so far can often be next to impossible unless you know the exact title or URL already.All I say is that every year it becomes harder to find real information without being side tracked by endless amounts of realted fakery.If it would be baking then you would would see tons of stuff telling you how to bake cakes and bread without using any water, milk or flour LOLAnd to raise the dough we would only need a specially designed bowl but no yeast or baking powder ROFL

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  • I ,like some other already tried to create feedback, bug reports and suggestions.Sadly the response from the support is still a hit and miss.No sticky for any of this either, so finding information on what was reported or suggested already goes missing too.Only real thing that might still work is to contact the support directly by Email.Be as precise as possible and include as much information on the problem as possible.Like OS, browser, what exactly went wrong or fails to work at all.If you get a reply that is not automated you know you did what you could.

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  • Downunder35m commented on HiveA's forum topic Wifi Mesh7 days ago

    Depends on material, size, interference, requirements - you want me to guess? ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Robert1234567's forum topic Cat grooming frame/scaffold7 days ago

    You can't contain a cat for that it will only make it worse.The key is to make the cat like the procedure.Worked for my cats ;)

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  • For the screen:You will need to make suitable brackets on the metal frame of the TV.That is the part INSIDE the plastic frame.Sometimes you are lucky and use the holes for some mounts of the plastic housing if they go through holes in the frame.For the rest:Consider to make seperate housings for all devices with a small cooling fan.Some foam strips on the sides could then keep the devices secured in their housing.The housings itself you can fix to the box as all is removable now.Add a cover behing the TV with vent holes on one side and a fan on the other side, preferably blowing the air right out the box.With that you will be able to remove and heat inside, just include suffient venting for the housings and devices inside so outside air will be sucked in around them.

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  • It the same priciple that used on magnetic hinges.There is a new type that "locks" the door or panel in a fixed position.We had them on some equippment last year until they started to collect too much debris.As a toy however this is quite neat!Since you already made one:Ever wondered what happens to this nice effect if you shield the small magnets? ;)I mean a ferromagnetic ring over both sides of the small magnets.Although I have to say it works best if the distance between the magnets is smaller then their diameter.You would end up with a ring magnet ;)And the principle of combining magnets with opposing poles is just one clue on how to make a magnetmotor working.Find the other three and you got yourself a magnetmotor running :)

    I am currently working on simplifying a very old design.The original uses a lot of brass, push rods and springs.Has a patent, is claimed to work but requires constant care and oiling.And of course the output is barely enough to keep it running let alone to power some tiny generator.I am hoping to eliminate the moving parts for the magnets as well as the brass by using a 3D printed model and some modifications.Should be possible to reduce the magnet count down to under 200 as well.While experimenting with a small version that was just meant to check alignments I noticed a very strage effect and Liquidhandwash posted a nice toy that comes close to this effect.In the right combination and using the correct distances you can create what I call a null-field.Right at that point of null the ma...

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    I am currently working on simplifying a very old design.The original uses a lot of brass, push rods and springs.Has a patent, is claimed to work but requires constant care and oiling.And of course the output is barely enough to keep it running let alone to power some tiny generator.I am hoping to eliminate the moving parts for the magnets as well as the brass by using a 3D printed model and some modifications.Should be possible to reduce the magnet count down to under 200 as well.While experimenting with a small version that was just meant to check alignments I noticed a very strage effect and Liquidhandwash posted a nice toy that comes close to this effect.In the right combination and using the correct distances you can create what I call a null-field.Right at that point of null the magnetic field lines cancel each other out.But unlike soundwaves this happens by diverting the field lines.There is no real use for this that I found so far unless you could create a coil that fits in this null-field.Then and in a rotating assembly you would not get two polarity changes in the coil when the magnets go past each other but four.And like in modern ignition coils the magnetic pulse created would be much stronger because the field from the magnets is overcome and "reversed" in that area twice.In something like the impossible magnetmotor however the effect can be utilised to overcome the binding forces that otherwise would stop the motor.The momentum of the rotor pushes past the first binding point but them the resersal of the magnetic field in that area will push the rotor out by cancelling the binding moment.Accurate timing and distance is the key, plus of coure the right amount of mass in the rotor.Too much and it won't have enough force to accelerate enough, too little and the binding force will get it stuck.So how would one go these days if he wanted to build a magnetmotor?Starting linear is always good but also brings the problem of transfering it accurately into a round model.Starting with a flat ring is a good compromise.Be it a turntable or a model railway track loop...Creating something that pulls the moving part in is easy, keeping it moving a bit harder.Always keep in mind that the final thing has no start and no end!Most people use just 3 repetitions in their assembly.Might work if you have a high speed camera and analyse the frames to detect where and when things slow down - but it is very time consuming.5 to 6 repetitions however should show you an ongoing acceleration until the moving part shoots out of the end.If works sometimes or when starting from some specific point then you are still fighting higher binding forces than what the system can overcome.If in doubt experiment with some added weight ;)Whatever idea you come up with:1. It won't work with just plain magnets in a row or similar - you always need a modified start and end that matches.2. You will need to combine magnets in weird combinations or machine your own shapes from ferrite block magnets.3. If you can create linear motion from various starting points in a segment then consider what you do where to reduce the binding effect.Hint: Shielding and shaping the magnetic fields ;)4. Only consider additional magnets in other places than where it binds as a last resort!Shaping the magnetic fields is far mor effective and minimises the amount of magnets required.5. If you are linear: Ever considered a ramp for your moving part? ;)Like an arch bridge you can overcome binding forces if the momentum is high enough and the "bridge" increases the distance where it binds most.The toy video posted can give you vital hints here!

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  • Nope.The pumps used are designed to provide positive pressure only.In theory you could try modify the mechanism or revers the valve but it leaves the problem of the design.Get a cheap vacuum food sealer, they are far from perfect but at least offer a half decent vacuum.For anything that should come close to a real vacuum and not just low pressure you would need a proper pump though.To get bubbles out of resin the above should work.

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  • All recent versions of Autocad will let you open and export DWG files.You can find a basic tutorial for that here:https://tutorial45.com/convert-dwg-to-stl/However, this process will fail if the DWG file is made badly.Unless it is fully "watertight" and solid it simply can not be converted.The informations must match for a success.Sadly a lot of programs are great for 3D design with no regards to any after use.For them it only needs to look good on the screen or a print.Only real solution to desging from the start with a program that is capable of handling the tast from start to finnish.Or to design in such a way that you can export at least parts of the creation in a proper way.I can not import or open the file you attached, so either it is far too bad or not compatible with ...

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    All recent versions of Autocad will let you open and export DWG files.You can find a basic tutorial for that here:https://tutorial45.com/convert-dwg-to-stl/However, this process will fail if the DWG file is made badly.Unless it is fully "watertight" and solid it simply can not be converted.The informations must match for a success.Sadly a lot of programs are great for 3D design with no regards to any after use.For them it only needs to look good on the screen or a print.Only real solution to desging from the start with a program that is capable of handling the tast from start to finnish.Or to design in such a way that you can export at least parts of the creation in a proper way.I can not import or open the file you attached, so either it is far too bad or not compatible with anything I have at my disposal.More options with other programs are listed here:http://www.cimetrixsolutions.com/downloads/SSYS-BP...Without knowing how bad your file is I can only suggest you check for what you have in soldid objects and then try to use them for what comes next.But I assume you won't heve enough to go with, at least no if you want something that is close what you have as a DWG.There are tools, even online, that claim to be able to repair your 3D files but from my experience they fail if most the object is incomplete.

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  • Downunder35m commented on BubbaCaz's forum topic Removing Warts9 days ago

    If it grows back hard then it could be a sign it is growing back.Had troubles years ago after getting infected in a hotel spa.One was particular nasty as it started to grow inwards so to say and in a spot not properly checked by the doc.With all the pain from the surrounding and removed warts it was quite late diagnosed.The doc tried the freeze method first to remove what he could.Two weeks later it was decided to do an ongoing treatment with acid.When it runed out to be too far done it had to be surgically removed.And I mention this because because I think mine appeared like yours.Mainly just a really hard area but flat, not itching or otherwise irritating.Well until the hard skin becomes the irritating factor and grows out.Some warts love to embed themself in very bad tissue - bad for...

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    If it grows back hard then it could be a sign it is growing back.Had troubles years ago after getting infected in a hotel spa.One was particular nasty as it started to grow inwards so to say and in a spot not properly checked by the doc.With all the pain from the surrounding and removed warts it was quite late diagnosed.The doc tried the freeze method first to remove what he could.Two weeks later it was decided to do an ongoing treatment with acid.When it runed out to be too far done it had to be surgically removed.And I mention this because because I think mine appeared like yours.Mainly just a really hard area but flat, not itching or otherwise irritating.Well until the hard skin becomes the irritating factor and grows out.Some warts love to embed themself in very bad tissue - bad for you that is.Especially if one was not fully removed this can cause them to go very deep into your tissue.You can try the usual after care options assuming you just have to deal with some badly growing skin.Soaking the are until you get the granny look on your skin should soften it enough to see what is going on.Just skin will appear white and be quite soft then.If a wart is still hiding under there then only the top layer of that hard sking will be softened.The tissues underneath will appear more like aforeign object in your skin.If so then your best option is to go back to your doc and discuss option to a proper removal.Last but not least there are these over the counter remedies...The freezing stuff might help to some extend but only for warts that are not going too deep.Those tinktures based on salicylic acid and similar do work but required patience and time - plus a great deal of care to avoid destroying the healthy tissue around the wart.The later can be tricky if it is going to deep.In some countries you can still get these wart sticks - a dark brown or black wax like substance.Those act like a strong acid and they are banned in many contries due to their side effects on the healthy tissue and of course because they can be harmful if they enter the blood stream where too much damage was done.Handle with care and if in doubt select a doctor with some expertise on the matter.

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  • Downunder35m commented on TamurT's forum topic Help me design the Circuit,11 days ago

    Look for a "step down converter".Or "DC DC converter".Some come with a fixed output voltage but most are adjustable, just check before buying.These things turn a wide range of input voltage into a fixed output voltage.No need to limit the current coming from the batteries as the router will only take what it needs.You might want to add a larger size electrolytic capacitor to the output of the converter to minimise interferences.2200µF or bigger should do.

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  • I had a nice discussion and experimenting time today with a good friend of mine.Unlike me he made all the up to a degree and does real studies on things for money now.He stated that I can not take a bunch of magnets and create a new one without an weak spots between them.His showoff was to join about 10 disk magnets to a cylindrical magnet.Like that there is the north and south pole at the ends and the rest acts like a single magnet.Although on the field viewing sheet you could see where the magnets touched there was no difference in feel to a similar cyclindrical magnet from one piece.The he used some layers of carboard to seperate them with even spacing.As expected you could really feel where one magnet was and where a gap was.He was happy to have made a point and that his theory as c...

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    I had a nice discussion and experimenting time today with a good friend of mine.Unlike me he made all the up to a degree and does real studies on things for money now.He stated that I can not take a bunch of magnets and create a new one without an weak spots between them.His showoff was to join about 10 disk magnets to a cylindrical magnet.Like that there is the north and south pole at the ends and the rest acts like a single magnet.Although on the field viewing sheet you could see where the magnets touched there was no difference in feel to a similar cyclindrical magnet from one piece.The he used some layers of carboard to seperate them with even spacing.As expected you could really feel where one magnet was and where a gap was.He was happy to have made a point and that his theory as correct as always.Then I placed the magnets in identical orientation with on pole onto a flat mild steel bar.Two strips.One with the magnets as close to each other as possible, then with a spacing similar to the diameter of the disk magnets.In either case there was no noticable "gap" to feel and only one the viewing film was really close to the magnets it revealed the different poles, above that threshold and it appears as one field.He went silent for about 15 minutes, tried all sorts of things and kept shaking his head."Can I take those home and do some proper checks?"Well that was last Sunday and so far I have not hear back from to explain to me where the gaps disappeared to LOL

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Just for fun!13 days ago
  • Downunder35m commented on ambientvoid's forum topic Flywheel car13 days ago

    Comes down to mass and rotational speed.A toy car is light and the flywheel in comparison make the majority of the weight.Take a push bike on a straight and get it to a certain speed.The energy you need to provide with your legs to maintain the speed is the smae your flywheel would have to provide.A multi geared flywheel that is kept at very high speeds will provide more energy for longer than a slow turning wheel - with same mass and dimensions.Of course more energy is required to get it to that high speed.Upscaling a toy car to something real with a driver would mean to have a flywheel of over 200kg.And with that weight comes to problem of moving it.There might be little to no overall gain for you unless your ride always starts on top of a hill.

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  • Downunder35m commented on RicKami's forum topic Electric touch...15 days ago
  • Germany of course also uses AC ;)The elctronic ones should be just a simple regulator but the problem might be the power.At just 120V your machine uses a motor that requires a few more in Amps, or milli Amperes.Check the power rating of machine and the new foot pedal.If the pedal can supply more Ampere (A) than what the machine needs it should still work.You might have problems at low speeds and high work lods, like when doing thick materials.In case it won't work or not good enough you can always try one of these:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sewing-Machine-Pedal-1...If in doubt replace the plug for the machine or the entire cable with what you have from the broken one ;)

    Can you provide some images of the dead pedal?I would say the replacement should be fine unless the machine would really require DC from the pedal.Have not seen a Singer that requires this.

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  • That explains a lot.The model itself is far from being perfect.You will have areas where material gets trapped or that are just too uneven.If it is not that important then try my old candle trick:For really bad originals I either make a silicone model or mold first - or take the shortcut.Wax does not stick to much, is easy to use and work with.Only problem is the stuff is hot when you have to heat it.For a first test:Prepare enouch liquid wax to submerge you part.Clean your part with quite warm soapy water and a soft brush.Dry it with a lint free cloth or paper towel quickly - if the thing can absord water then wait with the wax and let it dry properly in warm oven or sunlight.You don't want to mix any remaining water with hot wax!!!Either way once fully dry and still quite warm cover ...

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    That explains a lot.The model itself is far from being perfect.You will have areas where material gets trapped or that are just too uneven.If it is not that important then try my old candle trick:For really bad originals I either make a silicone model or mold first - or take the shortcut.Wax does not stick to much, is easy to use and work with.Only problem is the stuff is hot when you have to heat it.For a first test:Prepare enouch liquid wax to submerge you part.Clean your part with quite warm soapy water and a soft brush.Dry it with a lint free cloth or paper towel quickly - if the thing can absord water then wait with the wax and let it dry properly in warm oven or sunlight.You don't want to mix any remaining water with hot wax!!!Either way once fully dry and still quite warm cover it fully with wax.Let all excess drip off, if doubt use a hair drier to use the hot airflow to push away what you don't need.The resulting wax coating should be extremely thin and if tested on the back with your fingernail then next to nothing should scrape off.Very tiny imperfections, cracks and such however fill be filled or at least smothed out.Your project might now succeed.If it still gets stuck it mean you have areas that form an undercut or areas where material gets trapped.Use a lot of light a magnifying glass and have some quickly made poking, scraping and smoothing tools ready.Wherever you spot an area of trouble use some warm and soft wax to fill or smooth it out.Some tiny hobby knife blade or metal strip can be heated quickly over a flame and then create a perfectly smooth surface on the wax.Little marks you might create along the way canbe fixed the same way or by "dunking a flame" - a lighter or match quickly placed and removed usually smooths out what it left.Once done and satisfied you can heat up the model and wipe off most of the way, leaving a protective coating.

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  • Let me start with batteries like yours...It is evident that there is more than just a positive and negative connection.Means it could be connections to different cell combinations, inside or outside control and safety features and so on.Messing with those without knowing what is what and what exactly is inside can be quite dangerous.Overcharging of lithium cells....You find this a lot on the web and usually only as a way to "fix dead" batteries.It is true that a controlled voltage spike can get a dead battery back to a state where a charger might accept it.But this "knowledge" was just taken from the old lead-acid batteries.Lithium cells undergo chemical reactions of a different kind!In the worst case nothing will cause any voltage to go through such a bad cell witho...

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    Let me start with batteries like yours...It is evident that there is more than just a positive and negative connection.Means it could be connections to different cell combinations, inside or outside control and safety features and so on.Messing with those without knowing what is what and what exactly is inside can be quite dangerous.Overcharging of lithium cells....You find this a lot on the web and usually only as a way to "fix dead" batteries.It is true that a controlled voltage spike can get a dead battery back to a state where a charger might accept it.But this "knowledge" was just taken from the old lead-acid batteries.Lithium cells undergo chemical reactions of a different kind!In the worst case nothing will cause any voltage to go through such a bad cell without destroying it.-But lets be nice and assume you could actually access the real battery connections and apply you direct power shock:The cells are without any usuable charge, so the lithium and other chemicals are literally used up.Most of the cell won't even be able to take any charge.The areas that still do however will change the chemicals and lithium in that area.This process in a good battery is very even and uniform.As a result you can end up with what I like to call charge pits.Small areas that hold a charge long enough to allow a normal charger to take them on again.You face two big risks:1. The individual cells will be at different levels of failure.Through that it becomes impossible to charge the individual cells evenly.See it like several different resistors in series: The lower resistance in some causes heat to build up and the chemical reaction to go out of control.Far too simplyfied but you get the picture.2. The charge pits can grow out of control.Imagine you pump more and more energy into a cell that can only utilise about 20-30% of its chemicals and metals.So called spikes can not only form by bad battery design and failing protections but also really good in those pits!The chemical reaction should cause a gradual build up of fresh material that is your available charge.It is like growing mountains - you want them to be as flat as possible to get the most charge without the tops breaching the insulations and causing a short.Ever seen some of these videos where lithium batteries go up in flames while charging? ;)This happens once a spike has pierced the insulation and reached the opposite pole.The only half secure way would be to try something with every single cell of your battery.Chances are it will never get to a decent capacity anyways.Plus you still risk bad failures in the long run.IMHO the best and safest option is a replacement, especially if the battery is quite old or had a lot of charging cycles already.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Tripmine56's forum topic Anyone notice?17 days ago

    The support is working on some fixes, or better they work on quite a few.Some disruptions or things not working at times comes with it.Now it is weekend, so give them till Monday afternoon.Otherwise send an Email with some more details to the support directly so they have a reference.

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  • Try to dust the mold with corn starch, blow out the excess.And if you have no intentions to paint it then spray oil works well too.Cooking oil can be cleaned off, silicone oil is better but impossible to glue or paint the cast when done.

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  • Down here it is mostly still the old wild west mentality and law.Responsible for water, supply and such is the provider.They do the reports, tests and get the money for the water.Somer higher authority claims to make sure all is fine but for the entire state there are only about 8 field working people for this job.There is no requirements of any sort to give a landowner enough power to enforce a check.I tried sever times from my private connection and even by showing the guys upon arrival that without flushing the water on the meter is already affected.For work we now got something that is basically a copy and paste job from what I got multiple times for Emails.Stating all tests came back clear and that our filtration problem is caused by our pipes and plumbing.The fact that the water f...

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    Down here it is mostly still the old wild west mentality and law.Responsible for water, supply and such is the provider.They do the reports, tests and get the money for the water.Somer higher authority claims to make sure all is fine but for the entire state there are only about 8 field working people for this job.There is no requirements of any sort to give a landowner enough power to enforce a check.I tried sever times from my private connection and even by showing the guys upon arrival that without flushing the water on the meter is already affected.For work we now got something that is basically a copy and paste job from what I got multiple times for Emails.Stating all tests came back clear and that our filtration problem is caused by our pipes and plumbing.The fact that the water from our meter there is also brwonish was not even mention in their nice letter.Most people around here were made aware that the water quality might suffer slightly in terms of clearity and sediments.But the related works are over for many months now and people just think it will clear up eventually with no concerns at all.I drank better water from creeks while fishing :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on liderbug's forum topic Sr04 like device works to 300ft18 days ago

    Not sure as don't do much with ultrasonic.But I would say the reflections from the pipe might cause interence issues sometimes.

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  • What exactly is not working? The button for the reply or the entry of text?The text is possible if you click in the first row where you could enter text.The button itself works fine for me here but if not try to log out and in again.

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  • That powder can be quite hazardous, so please don't let the suff get airborner or end in your drain.With the wet method you just put the contamited water in an open container and let if evaporate.(I do that in my garage)After that discard the entire container in your houshold rubbish bin.Please wear gloves and avoid skin contact!It is easier than what you might think.A straight tube can be done quickly with a pipe cleaner brush and some soapy water.The key is to use the detergent directly in the tube, meaning you let a few drops run in and then use the brush with water.Only good working option I found for these twisted tubes is to use an ultrasonic cleaner.Fill cleaner with luke warm soapy water, preferably bubble free.Add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the tube and fill it comple...

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    That powder can be quite hazardous, so please don't let the suff get airborner or end in your drain.With the wet method you just put the contamited water in an open container and let if evaporate.(I do that in my garage)After that discard the entire container in your houshold rubbish bin.Please wear gloves and avoid skin contact!It is easier than what you might think.A straight tube can be done quickly with a pipe cleaner brush and some soapy water.The key is to use the detergent directly in the tube, meaning you let a few drops run in and then use the brush with water.Only good working option I found for these twisted tubes is to use an ultrasonic cleaner.Fill cleaner with luke warm soapy water, preferably bubble free.Add a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the tube and fill it completely with water!Submerge the tube in the cleaner and turn it on.You might need several rounds but don't have to flush the tube out until you really see the white stuff letting go.Usually mine are done after 6 to 7 rounds all up with little to no residue left.There are other methods that still wrk on these tubes but I can recommend any as the health or enviromental hazards would be to great.

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  • Downunder35m commented on liderbug's forum topic Sr04 like device works to 300ft19 days ago

    Have you ever tried a laser sensor on a water surface?Should work just fine and several industrial ones are capable of these distances.

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  • Then you already have your answer - it is a JPG.Take a screenshot, copr it and save as JPG.With that it will be no problem at all to integrate it into your Ible.

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  • Downunder35m commented on NoPawse123's forum topic Light Cannons20 days ago

    Keep in mind the power requirements even for LED's.It is often better to have the power supply or driver close to the light instead fo using long wirse between the two.

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  • It does not really matter what type of solder you use as long as the connections are made properly.To me it looks like you have a problem with the heat.Try to heat the leg of the part AND the solder pad at the same time.Then add just enough solder to make a nice connection.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Palingenesis's forum topic An Other One20 days ago

    Looks quite nice, why not make an Instructable out of it?I like the portable idea that allows to put it on whatever surface you like.

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  • You are definately not wrong on that one but a lot of them just get what is "normal".However, I noticed a quite disturbing trend with both Youtube and Google, possibly because it is one company.Start watching these fake videos and you get more and more of them as susggestions.Quite fair in terms of what might interest you but it seems highly biased.Getting new videos suggested seems to be a hit an miss but you can be certain that those like yours always end up in the suggestion list.Might go overboard here, but considering Google is one of the most powerful US companies it looks like a good way to eliminated that anyone ever sees real videos that were uploaded.Especially if said user is just a free user and does not agree to have ads embedded.If I take proper people like our K...

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    You are definately not wrong on that one but a lot of them just get what is "normal".However, I noticed a quite disturbing trend with both Youtube and Google, possibly because it is one company.Start watching these fake videos and you get more and more of them as susggestions.Quite fair in terms of what might interest you but it seems highly biased.Getting new videos suggested seems to be a hit an miss but you can be certain that those like yours always end up in the suggestion list.Might go overboard here, but considering Google is one of the most powerful US companies it looks like a good way to eliminated that anyone ever sees real videos that were uploaded.Especially if said user is just a free user and does not agree to have ads embedded.If I take proper people like our King of Random than it makes sense to get more of the same from the same uploader.But those fake free energy videos seem to have a life of their own.Want real fun? Check how many videos you still find for fuel magnets or vortex devices for your airfilter in the car ROFLNow you can even get fuel additives that together with the right HV cables for your plugs increase your milage by over 40%!I order the petrol additive and two sets of these leads for my diesel ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on daftasacoot's forum topic Animating toy soldiers20 days ago

    No offence but why would you use an audio player to control a servo?The player needs a SD card to work, so using that with some custom code to mode the soldier would be far easier.Otherwise use the many example for "light organs" and replace the lights with servos ;)Makes the soldiers dance to the music....

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  • Downunder35m commented on NoPawse123's forum topic Light Cannons20 days ago

    Normal stage lights could be used as well as custom LED lights with a lens.What you need is a search light like source.Beam diameter is set by the actual light used and the lens (system) ensures the beam stays highly focussed for a long distance.Anything in front of the lens would then act like a shadow cast and affect the shpe of the beam - bat signal ;)A normal drone might not be feasable here due to the power requirements but frame systems fo 3D like beam movements do exist for stage use.Depending your skill set it might be possible you make your own.Biggest problem would be the visiblility.Without smoke or other reflective stuff in the air the light won't be visible at all.Not even a laser would...Less smoke for better clearity means highe power for the light.More smoke for ease and...

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    Normal stage lights could be used as well as custom LED lights with a lens.What you need is a search light like source.Beam diameter is set by the actual light used and the lens (system) ensures the beam stays highly focussed for a long distance.Anything in front of the lens would then act like a shadow cast and affect the shpe of the beam - bat signal ;)A normal drone might not be feasable here due to the power requirements but frame systems fo 3D like beam movements do exist for stage use.Depending your skill set it might be possible you make your own.Biggest problem would be the visiblility.Without smoke or other reflective stuff in the air the light won't be visible at all.Not even a laser would...Less smoke for better clearity means highe power for the light.More smoke for ease and efficient use might mean you disappear in smoke.

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  • What format do you use?I would try standard ones like JPG or PNG.If hosted o a server you might want to try to embed it using HTML.

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  • Damn, I like your comment Jack - Well done indeed!Have some updates and additional concerns though.Maybe just coincidence but at work we struggle now with our filtration system as well.The pre-filters should be good for about a month based on out usage for drinks and such.Longest usage time until blocked is now down to 3-4 days!!This is a massive financail drain, especially if you consider that these pre-filters won't catch all.The usage time for our fine filters and the reverse osmosis system is down from 24 months to just 3 month.Of course my boss finally decided to let me know about it and while at it dumped the responsibilities on me.First order of new business was to call our water provider to enquire on any works on the the water system in out area.Negative, nothing major done for...

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    Damn, I like your comment Jack - Well done indeed!Have some updates and additional concerns though.Maybe just coincidence but at work we struggle now with our filtration system as well.The pre-filters should be good for about a month based on out usage for drinks and such.Longest usage time until blocked is now down to 3-4 days!!This is a massive financail drain, especially if you consider that these pre-filters won't catch all.The usage time for our fine filters and the reverse osmosis system is down from 24 months to just 3 month.Of course my boss finally decided to let me know about it and while at it dumped the responsibilities on me.First order of new business was to call our water provider to enquire on any works on the the water system in out area.Negative, nothing major done for over 4 months and the big problems appearently started after this.So I pointed out that since about the time of last work we have filtration and clearity problems.With the amount of water we use daily the common agrrement was to send someone out ot check.The guy came today...I replaced the pre-filter and gave it up for inspection and tests."Can't do this here, have to take it to the lab."And as always, they claimed to be only responsible for thing up to the meter.So some samples were taken from the tap next to it.This is what according to the guy who knows came out from the tests:Chlorine below detection levels - I was fine with that.Bacteria count zero - no clue how he tested by I didn't care about that one.Sulphate, magnesium and ammonia checks came back negative as well.When I asked specifically for an iron or iron oxide test I was informed that it would not be part of the test procedure.Final blow came with the clearity check.The guy stated this test would show any contaminents, sediments and anything that would be defined as visible.Test scale on the meter goes from 0 for basically destilled water to 1000, which would correspond to a muddy puddle on a dirt road.I confirmed the reading myself and it was 20!Asked for another test, which was fine and provided a sample from bottled water.The reading for this was 18...."See, all is fine and your water is already as good as it could be!"Getting supspicions at this point I kindly asked if it would be ok to verify the test I did this morning - the guys laughed and agreed.So I grabbed my white buckets and with the water guy watching filled on from the tap in the washup room.Quite quickly it became evident that the water has brownish color, like from tannins or tea."Well, you definately have a problem with your plumbing mate!"Asked to hold that statement while I took the second bucket to the tap next to meter.The already half filled previous bucketnext to it I opened the tap.No surprise to me, the water in the bucket had the same brownish color.When I asked the wate guy how this possible could equal to what I find in bottled water I got nothing.So I asked how it is possible that his test claim to have tested totall clear and fine water.Again no answer.Took him a full minute until he said he would test our filter and have his equppiment checked for calibration issues.Without stating what happend at work I privately called our water supplier to ask about my water quality at home.Appearently they did a check in my stree just last week and all results came back fine.If I have any issues with water then I should call a plumber to have my piping inspected.Asked if someone could come out to actually confirm these results by testing my water I was told this would not be required as my area is on the same distribution pipe as the previously tested house.Is it just me or do I see a system behind this?Waiting for a reply from my real estate agent in regards to having the hot water system and piping of the house inspected due to the bad water quality.Did not mention that some if might come from the outside of course.Before writing this I grabbed a white bucket and went to two neighbours.Stated my problems and asked if I could fill my little bucket from their tap to confirm that the problem is just with my house.Lets just say they were quite concerned when seeing that the water in the bucket was neither clear nor appeared white as it should in a white bucket.Same brownish color as in my house and at work.Side story:One of my neighbours got a bit emotional when she realised the water quality might have other effect as well.She showed me her enclosed verandah or green house.Didn't ask how many but I estimate about 120 orchids.Except for a few that require special treatment anyway they all were in a really bad shape.I recommended to try bottled or destilled water with added nutirents instead of tap water...Knowing she is a breeder now makes me feel a bit sad as it might take over a year for those orchids that survive to thrive again.Anyways the all said they will contact our water supplier right away.Wouldn't surprise if the problem is well known and that the test equippent is made to show favourable results instead of real ones.Sadly there is no legal option in this country get proper help on this matter :(

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  • You can always use a patent for private use, just not commercially ;)For a different project a few years I considered a slightly different approach to a similar problem.My case was not 64 positions and the resulting chess pieces, just basic positioning.The entire multiplexing idea and RF signals is well and good but f you would prefer to stay away from the patented stuff you go optical.I try to explain my approach while considering the amount of chess pieces and possible positions:Preferably each square would have a small induction coil to provide wirless power to the chess pieces.Additionally there will be an IR receiver in each square.In every peice you have a receiver coil to provide electricity.The power goes to a chip providing an optical signal code to identify the piece.The squar...

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    You can always use a patent for private use, just not commercially ;)For a different project a few years I considered a slightly different approach to a similar problem.My case was not 64 positions and the resulting chess pieces, just basic positioning.The entire multiplexing idea and RF signals is well and good but f you would prefer to stay away from the patented stuff you go optical.I try to explain my approach while considering the amount of chess pieces and possible positions:Preferably each square would have a small induction coil to provide wirless power to the chess pieces.Additionally there will be an IR receiver in each square.In every peice you have a receiver coil to provide electricity.The power goes to a chip providing an optical signal code to identify the piece.The squares only need to kept powered up while a piece is actually present.If a removal is detected all remaining squares are activated to be able to recognise the new position once the piece has transmitted its code.Optional: Only activate possible squares based on the type of piece and position it was on.Wouldn't be too hard to program a small chip to send one of 32 possible ID codes...And if you make it work properly you still claim a patent on it if you give me some credits for the idea ;)Don't know enough about induction systems for identification purposes but somehow I think my idea is still a bit easier to realise and for more "elegant" and flexible.No problem adding a bit more info and use the board for other games ;)Only real downside might be the optical part.Position problems can be address with a suitable reflector in the base but dirt or smear not so much.But then again a proper chess player would keep his set and board nice and clean, would he? (Or she?)

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  • Damn, I wish I could be on a beach near you now....You should consider first how and how much the printers will be used.Same for the type of usage, like just for printing things or for students to take apart and modify.Do you have anyone with enough knowledge on the topic, able to fix faults and problems with the hardware?If not and it is a high demand arrangement then it might be best to pay more but get a service contract in return.Personally I think that quite soon you would someoneone knowing enough to deal with this "for free".Renting out or accepting print jobs from the general public or other students can provide help to reduce the running costs!But of course it means you would need someone running these print jobs when the machines are not in use by students.Could be a...

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    Damn, I wish I could be on a beach near you now....You should consider first how and how much the printers will be used.Same for the type of usage, like just for printing things or for students to take apart and modify.Do you have anyone with enough knowledge on the topic, able to fix faults and problems with the hardware?If not and it is a high demand arrangement then it might be best to pay more but get a service contract in return.Personally I think that quite soon you would someoneone knowing enough to deal with this "for free".Renting out or accepting print jobs from the general public or other students can provide help to reduce the running costs!But of course it means you would need someone running these print jobs when the machines are not in use by students.Could be a good training thing for the students though.Fixing customer models, printing them and proding the customer with the resulting print.In terms of recommendations for printers it would be nice to have some more details.Just filament printers or maybe one DLP printer?Required build volume? - Maybe just one big printer and then one or two smaller models?Speed requirements - A big print on a standard printer might take a full day while a high end commercial model might do it in 8 to 10 hours...Although you are literally in the middle of nowhere it is still a part of the US.My best recommendation at this point would be to check what is available in your region.Service, spare parts or a repair is much easier if only "local" companies are involved.Flexibility is a must in both terms here.As a student machine you want to be able to use a wide variety of plastics and not just PLA and ABS.So at least one should be fully capable of handling all common soft and hard filament types.Upgrading this at a later stage is not just time consuming but in many cases also far more expensive.Been there, done that :(Having said all that an maybe given you more than you can chew right now:If you use more than one machine or have high volumes then considering to recycle make a lot more sense than for a private person.Although a recycled filament is never as good as the original it is still perfect for drafts or support material.The additional investment of a filament extruder can be made up quickly, especially if postage costs would drastically increase the price of new filament.Features are also a big thing to consider.For most things a plain and dumb printer will do.Having features like automatic bed levelling, a heated bed or easy and quick to change extruders and nozzles might be vital in the long run.Things like a webcam or remote control might sound nice but trust me:Having a stand alone model where people just have to insert a SD card and hit the print button eliminates a lot of hassles.Last but not least there is the problem of reliablity, especially if used without proper supervision and training.Accidents happen, especially during very long prints.Some printers allow for a recovery function.With that you could clean up a failed print to the last layer that is perfect.Calibrate the nozzle height accordingly and the printer will resume the print from there.Usually only found in higher end models, the rest can still do with some manual tweaking of the G-code and some basic calculations.Personal view on this if money would not be a problem:IMHO a "near perfect" solution would be to have one big sized X-Y printer, one smaller model and one good sized delta-type printer.After checking availabilites and postage costs, plus considering the climate I don't think a resin or powder based printer is a good solution.The running costs would be quite high, same for attention required to keep it all clean and properly working.A good a and reliable filament printer capable of a build size of 15x15x15cm is good for a lot of print tasks out there.A bigger model capable of 30x30x30 or more will be of huge benefit if larger parts would be a requirement.-Especially if you would plan to reduce costs by accepting outside print jobs from the community.Knowing how great the spirit is on the islands I just assume woul would provide some form of outside access.The delty printer is of interest because it allows students to compare the two main types of printers out there.The movements are totally different and prints will come out slightly different on them as well.Not better, not worse, just "different" - hard to explain.‘A’OHE PU’U KI’EKI’E KE HO’A’O ‘IA E PI’IYou will find what suits, with proper details and requirements given someone will be able to provide with some suitable printer models.If not then I will look some up for you ;)A hui hou !

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  • Take a look at all these magnetmotor videos out there on Youtube.I really love the fake one with the PC fan LOLThen there are the many videos showing 3 rows of magnets on rotor and stator, the later to be closed with hinges...At least for those some folks are honest and admit failure...So what is actually causing these failures if the concept was not to create a fake?Take a normal asyncronous motor as one example.The rotor appears to be slotted or angled but if not straight.This helps to overcome certain issues but also allows the rotor to slip without loosing too much momentum.There is something I like to call "the honest guy test".Here you can see how the rotor spins with and without the stator.Funny thing on an almost working model is how it reacts.You see, when started slo...

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    Take a look at all these magnetmotor videos out there on Youtube.I really love the fake one with the PC fan LOLThen there are the many videos showing 3 rows of magnets on rotor and stator, the later to be closed with hinges...At least for those some folks are honest and admit failure...So what is actually causing these failures if the concept was not to create a fake?Take a normal asyncronous motor as one example.The rotor appears to be slotted or angled but if not straight.This helps to overcome certain issues but also allows the rotor to slip without loosing too much momentum.There is something I like to call "the honest guy test".Here you can see how the rotor spins with and without the stator.Funny thing on an almost working model is how it reacts.You see, when started slow in both cases the rotor won't spin long but noticable longer without the stator.And when started at a quite high speed it is the other way around.Here the thing suddenly spins much longer with the stator than without it.As mentioned in the topic already, we have binding forces between the magnets.Even if you have fully opposing poles meeting there will be a dead zone.In this dead zone the magnet will actually attract ;)This means you are fighting two fundamental problems that seem to confirm the laws of physics still apply.Overall the forces will actually nullify to nothing.Taking for granted what we know about energy and momentum a true magnetmotor would be able to start by itself from any position.Checking some claimed to be working models there is one thing they all have in common:Or better two, they need a push to start or they lock in a fixed position when stopped!Those really sceptic people now say it is not a perpetuum mobile - and of course they are right!However, if you widen the definition only slightly then even with a push start a working magnet motor provides more energy than what was required to start it - and it keeps running.The one thing you never really see in carefully edited videos or during presentations is how the magnets are aligned, enclosed and how other matals are used in the stator or rotor assembly!For most the few visible parts seem to be for stabilityor to keep it all together.Lets talk about binding, dead zones and "potting mixes"...If you take a coil and move a magnet past it then some electricity will be generated.Same if you drop a magnet through a coil or pipe.But honestly: Did you ever consider how this magnetic field or electricity would change the magnetic flux?In a pipe you end up with opposing magnetic fields, thats what is slowing the magnet down.If you do it the other way around and use a potted magnet then the effect is quite different if a magnet passes it!Like in a LC circuit we get a dimishing impulse.The potting affects the magnet, the magnet affects the currents in the potting.The passing magnet will now create a strong impulse when passing over the dead zone.And in return this impulse severaly lowers the magnetic field strenght of the potted magnet.Plus: The magnetic field of the pot is of the opposite to the magnet!The overall pushing and pulling forces will be almost the same but the binding forces drastically reduced.From a certain speed up the binding forces are lower than the forces moving the rotor...And does it still fail to work, or if done good stops after a while instead of getting faster or keeping the speed?Alignement and repetition...Three rotors and stators are there for a reason!A single system always has binding forces stopping the movement sooner or later.Just not enough energy to overcome friction and all the stuff as well.To eliminate this we often see that the magnets or the rotors are aligned similar to a asyncronous rotor.However that is not entirely correct, maybe on purpose, who knows..What you really want is to make sure that while one rotor is in the position where the binding forces would stop it, the other two are at positions providing a comined "trust" that is slightly higher.I give you a free hint here: This will never work with the same amount of magnets on stator and rotor! ;)There is a natural ratio you need to stick to.That way you have single binding points around the perimater instead of all of them binding at the same time ;)Ok, got it but it still slows down and stops after a while :(Well, it has to because you still have a fully static system.Unless your potting and additional shielding is next to perfect you still have more losses than gain.But if the rotor now spins much longer with the stator around then try to get a faster starting speed ;)Static is not always best!If you are good enough then it might work for you but in 99% of cases it won't.Right now we use the potting to affect the potted magnet.But we could use coils instead...To keep the example quite simple imagine a rotor with 5 magnets and a stator with 7.Calculating two unknow variables is quite easy possible if you paid attention in school.Doing it with three is slightly harder but works too.What you want is to create a follow up impulse.What is produced by a coil right then the magnet passes goes into another coil to pull the magnet closer and to overcome the replusive forces a bit better.Once you get your tables calculated you realise 5 and 7 won't really work with the alignment all the time.You need a number of coiled stator magnets that actually allow you create the right pattern through the coil connections.All coils need to be used and always connected so the the strongest coil feeds into a weak one to pull a magnet closer.Remember these drawing toys to make nice looking spirals on paper? - they can give you clues here ;)Instead of wasting energy through heat alone we now actually use the magnetic impulses and the resulting electricity to ADD to the system.A feromagnetic ring on top of the coil can be used to manipulate the magnetic field enev further without compromising the impulse too much!One thing I so far fail to find on Youtube is to use two cylindrical magnets mounted in non-magnetic bearings.The ones you might see don't use the bearings at the ends of the magnet but instead let them rotate from pole to pole like a motor.Do a little test for me ;)Place two magnets with their pole onto a non magnetic bearing of your choice - very low friction please!Now bring them close together so you feel they either pull or push on each other.Fix them in a position that won't let them snap together or that provides a good push.-Now start to spin one magnet and watch what the other one does! ;)If we see magnetic field lines like teeth on a gear the other magnet will start to sping as well.See them as a general force and there will be no interaction.Assume it would spin:It would mean we have usable forces around a magnet that spins on its pole axis.And if it does not spin then why do we speak of magnetic field lines instead of a magnetic field sphere? ;)Easy to do, so figure it out and explain your findings if you can ;)

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  • The driver only uses a basic stepping, so no 8th or 16th stepping.Not much you can do about that.Microstepping will help but I doubt you can replace the driver chip with one that supports it.The max speed looks quite slow too, so it will run on a low frequency as well.The idea of using just the drive signals and to divert them to another chip could still work though.Downside is that if you would then go to microstepping your speed will go down accordingly too.And you still have the "steps" :(For an almost smooth motion people tend to use stepper motors with more poles.Means every single sep is smaller.Instead of 16 degrees they might then get 8 or even just 4° per step.Unless you need a wide rage of speeds I would try the highest speed with a worm drive or bigger gearing.The s...

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    The driver only uses a basic stepping, so no 8th or 16th stepping.Not much you can do about that.Microstepping will help but I doubt you can replace the driver chip with one that supports it.The max speed looks quite slow too, so it will run on a low frequency as well.The idea of using just the drive signals and to divert them to another chip could still work though.Downside is that if you would then go to microstepping your speed will go down accordingly too.And you still have the "steps" :(For an almost smooth motion people tend to use stepper motors with more poles.Means every single sep is smaller.Instead of 16 degrees they might then get 8 or even just 4° per step.Unless you need a wide rage of speeds I would try the highest speed with a worm drive or bigger gearing.The shaking from the steps would then be reduced according to the gear ratio.Instead of 15° you could end up as low as 2° on the output drive.

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  • I assume you use PVC for your cannon.So all joints should be made with PVC pipe glue and primer.Epoxy should bond too but because it cures to a totally different hardness the joint maight fail after a while.Silicone is really good for all holes or similar where you have wires but not really good to make the seals around joints.Unless prepared properly you can just peel the cured silicone off the PVC again - might mean catastrophic failure if used to "glue" two parts together.

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  • Acrylic or resin??You need to check this before going a route that is not mechanical.No matter the material a rock tumbler might work best for you.Since they are not fully dull you would need the finnishing compounds to polish in the tumbler.Acrylic and flame polishing is well and good if the pieces will never be exposed to too much sunlight or alcohol.Flame polished acrylic or even heat treated acrylic (to shape or bend it) will crack badly when in contact with alcohol and some other general cleaning chemicals.But for both acrylic and resin you can try a solvent based polishing to remove really badly scratched bits.Downside is that the surface becomes very sticky and dull after the treatment.So really a rock tumbler or similar is the easiest and least messy option.

    You don't have anything that could be closed shut and made to turn around for hours?Even I have some old plastic buckets with lids ;)It is plastic you deal with, not actual rocks ;)

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  • Your link does not work.If I understand correctly then you want to replace the drive with stepper motors instead of DC motor or similar?Keep in mind that step in this term means that a stepper motor won't provide a fluid motion, it goes one step at a time.The signal for the original motor could be used as an input that starts and stops the stepper motor.A suitably high speed and gearing system would eliminate the stepping effect so all runs very smooth.Meaning that instead of a single step the motor would need to do 20 or 100 so the gearing provides the same result.The tiny stepper motors in floppy drives already come with a short worm drive...

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  • Downunder35m commented on tensecondsdown's forum topic Need help with a project23 days ago

    There might be things out there going in a similar direction.Although not exactly like you might think.For example in several robotic projects you will find bits and pieces to use, like a joystick control to move something.Similar in 3D printing and milling code.As a start I could imagine to use a simple milling machine code and to make it work with simple push button controls for all directions and movements.From there a routine could be added to include the position data, directions and actions from the buttons.Replacing the buttons with a cable and pad is than quite easy.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Laney02's forum topic Looking for a cheap 3D printer23 days ago

    Although I assume this was a case of "register to post then never come back", someone might find it a few years from now...Cheap is a really relative term when it comes to 3D printing.All depends on what you want or better need to do with your new toy.And no matter how cheap: the material costs are the same if not higher.We can choose from several types on the lower range of the budget.I put all the one that work more or less like a milling machine in one and the delta one in another category.Resin or powder options are not for the beginner and certainly not for a budget.The delta models shine through speed and ease of use.But usually at a slightly higher price tag.The traditional styles would be the ones a beginner goes for.So what would be important to consider if money real...

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    Although I assume this was a case of "register to post then never come back", someone might find it a few years from now...Cheap is a really relative term when it comes to 3D printing.All depends on what you want or better need to do with your new toy.And no matter how cheap: the material costs are the same if not higher.We can choose from several types on the lower range of the budget.I put all the one that work more or less like a milling machine in one and the delta one in another category.Resin or powder options are not for the beginner and certainly not for a budget.The delta models shine through speed and ease of use.But usually at a slightly higher price tag.The traditional styles would be the ones a beginner goes for.So what would be important to consider if money reall is of the essence here?1. Purchase price.If you consider that a high end nozzle, heater and extruder can set you back more than a cheap 3D printer you might start to wonder.Quality has a price and with a dirt cheap 3D printer you might find that over time you waste more money on upgrades than what a proper model would have cost.In some cases you also face the problem that certain things just won't work with standard software and/or that the resulting prints just won't looks as good as they should - no matter how well you calibrate and adjust.So check what is all included, do some research, read user reviews and don't just ump on the first model you see on Fleabuy.2. Running costs.With a badly designed 3D printer you usually end up with a lot of failed prints.Sometimes things can be adjusted and fixed but often they just can't.Filament can become costly!Saving and going for cheap might work if the quality is still acceptable.Recycling often ends up with bad quality.Only option is to have several types and brands to choose from and test.Sometimes it is not your printer but your filament ruining your prints!A dirt cheap 3D printer however tends to produce more failed prints than a good one.3. Speed.Some people post videos showing that their printer can produce a good looking model in well under hlaf the time you ever could.In 3D printing, meaning melting and deposting filament, speed is not just relative but a factor!You can print "lightning fast" with any nozzle size considering the phsical and mechanical limitations.It does not mean though the resulting print is usable at all.In a perfect world the prvious layer would still be at a certain temperature.Plastic bonds much better if it is not a match of room temp and boiling hot.Deformations are another thing, same as delamination.What you really need is the right speed to produce a perfect model, even if it means going a bit slower.Fans, high speed extruder and 32-bit hardware allow for greater accuracy and higher speeds.A simple and cheap of the shelf printer won't have that!Even if yours includes a heated print platform: consider that heat only travels so far....4. Future...Once you really like using your new toy you start considering upgrading it.A lot can be done by printing the parts you need but not all.On a well desinged model you could for example increase the build size by using londer belts and frames.A cheap one might turn out to be a full replacement as you won't find any suitable framing parts or rails.Escpescially when it comes to mechanical stuff, from extruder over mounts up to framing parts - trust me printing the parts will only get you up if the prints are 100% perfect ;)In all other cases using machined parts or laser cut parts works far better.If you really want to start with 3D printing then consider going the long way:Start by getting used to actually desinging proper 3D part ready for printing as this will be one main requirement for a 3D printer.Printing services exist all over the world now.And for all sorts of materials and techniques!Unless you really need a lot of 3D printed parts on an ongoing base it might actually be cheaper for you to have the parts printed!Take me as an example...I wanted a big printer and something I can tinker with, so I oted for a kit solution of a basic type.You might have much higher usage demands then I ever had but once your projects are done and all fixable stuff relaced with printed parts you start to run out of ideas.In the end you have the thing sitting there but only using it onece or twice a year - with all included hassles of calibration, filament troubles and getting used to using it again.Have a "business plan" ready before you consider getting a 3D printer!Unless you really, really need one it might just end up to be a toy.Paying about $300 for a basic model is fine, then comes the filament at about $30 per roll.Pla won't cut it, you need ABS or even Nylon for the task, too bad if the printer can't handle it...The price for printed parts is as relative as the need to have them printed in the first place.You might pay 100 bucks for a large job of multiple parts or big sizes when you order it.And on a 3D printer on your desk it would have only cost you about 5 bucks for the material used.But would you have the same quality, stability and duratility of the parts, or the same good surface finnish?On a cheap printer you might waste an entire roll of filament before you have all parts in a usable quality, then you start finnishing them off...So, does that mean you should opt for a $2000+ model with proper support and fancy features?Sure, if you have a real use for it and can make money from your creations.Certainly not if you operate on a budget and don't really know if you will print anything at all in 12 months time.I can't recommend any type or model as this info would only be avlid for a few weeks.So instead let me give you some advise:A well know and established manufacturer will be your best option if you are not a tinkerer.You get support and a community of users that can help you out.Some chinese no name model might work the same way but once you need help you are alone!This then only leaves the possible options and upgrades.Having a printer that is limited in size is your own decision, so think twice before deciding on what actualy build size you really require.No need for 50x50x50cm if your biggest part ever will only be 20x10x10cm...Upgrading parts can be straight forward or a true nightmare.Again: Plan and think ahead!If you might want to use soft materials or high temp filaments then your printer needs to be able to handle this.Buying a $500 model only to spend another 200 on upgraded extruders and other parts might mean you could have gone for a far better model from the start while still saving money now ;)Never, ever trust advertisings!!!A printer might seem to be the best thing in the universe on the manufacturers or Ebay website but only real user feedback will tell you if it is true.It is not problem to search for a specific model and feedback while excluding results from the manufacturer or sponsored sites.Nothing or nothing positive to find means to stay away...Entry level means exactly that!You can buy a set of screwdrivers at your hardwoare store.The cheap $10 home brand variety will do you some screws before failing.The $80 pro set won't let you down anythime soon even you abuse them a bit.Same goes for printers these days.Starting to wonder when the first 3D printers appear that are made to only be usable with filament from the printer manufacturer LOLBest advise ever:You want a 3D printer?Really, really want one now?Need to start printing the next day or sooner?If so then just relax and chill!You are stressed out and on a hype!Forget about it for a few days, do other things instead.Still really need one now?Then why didn't you spent the time researching on what is available now? ;)Take your time, read up, check feedback and what else is available.Calculate running costs and need.Take another break and if you still think a printing service is too costly and not good enough then buy what you need.See! You made an informed decision instead of rushing into things and having regrets shortly after ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on jcann9960's forum topic Arduino wireless weather station24 days ago

    No clue without links and info what you are actually talking about.But unless you use the exact same display (revision number) and libraries chances are you get some problems.Example:Display A and library A work fine and as intended - assume the original Ible project here.Display B needs library B and is claimed to be compatible.Display B and library B are not compatible to A.The first case should always work as planned.Second might mean you still need to make code adjustments, especially if some display things are handled by interrupts or timers.Third means you really need to adjust the code so the display does what it is supposed to do.The problem is made worse if the new display uses a different connection type, like parallel instead of serial.You say only one part of the screen is a...

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    No clue without links and info what you are actually talking about.But unless you use the exact same display (revision number) and libraries chances are you get some problems.Example:Display A and library A work fine and as intended - assume the original Ible project here.Display B needs library B and is claimed to be compatible.Display B and library B are not compatible to A.The first case should always work as planned.Second might mean you still need to make code adjustments, especially if some display things are handled by interrupts or timers.Third means you really need to adjust the code so the display does what it is supposed to do.The problem is made worse if the new display uses a different connection type, like parallel instead of serial.You say only one part of the screen is affected.My logic dictates that there might be a glitch or refrech problem in the code for this part.Lets say the inside temp is always fine.Compare how the data is used and how the code for the actual display part makes use of this data to bring it on the screen.Check this against the outdoor part.Sometimes it is as simple as a missing ; . or a typo in the code.In other cases the refresh routine used might not clear and refresh the entire display but only those parts that had data changes.Doing a full refresh with all data instead of refreshing bits and pieces on the screen when they happen can often fix these issues for good.After a reset it seems to be fine for a while - how long exactly? ;)Did the outdoor data change properly a few times after the reset?Or did it mess up with the first refresh/new set of data ?You see details are not just vital for facial recognition but also when asking for precise answers to a specific problem ;)

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  • You would search for "velcro loop -(hook)".Problem is that there is little use to just sell one part of the two things required.So be it pads, belts or whatever - they always come in pairs.Sometimes you can find the loop stuff sererately but with added glue or adhesive pads it will be next to impossible.I guess you have the hook part covered by some darts, balls or smilar, so why not use this?If the actually gripping strenght and ease of use is not that important then you will have materials around that can be misused.For example on woolen jumpers these hooks get quite sticky, similar story for these scrubbing pads for pots although with far less grip.If in doubt then take a bit of your hook stuff to the next second hand clothing shop and try it out.A bit of spray on glue, a l...

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    You would search for "velcro loop -(hook)".Problem is that there is little use to just sell one part of the two things required.So be it pads, belts or whatever - they always come in pairs.Sometimes you can find the loop stuff sererately but with added glue or adhesive pads it will be next to impossible.I guess you have the hook part covered by some darts, balls or smilar, so why not use this?If the actually gripping strenght and ease of use is not that important then you will have materials around that can be misused.For example on woolen jumpers these hooks get quite sticky, similar story for these scrubbing pads for pots although with far less grip.If in doubt then take a bit of your hook stuff to the next second hand clothing shop and try it out.A bit of spray on glue, a little stretch and a roller - you got a loop surface to play with ;)Think out of the box, don't let your brain be put in one ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on BBQCheerios's forum topic Everyday Problems24 days ago

    So you are part of a teacm and only registered here so someone can help you with the project!?If I wouldn't know better I would suggest to ask your teacher again about using this option ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on gale olson's forum topic Paper cutter fix needed !24 days ago

    And the deitails we need are posted where?Sorry but it seems the link to those details didn't make it in your question.

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  • Downunder35m commented on MauroGB's forum topic MAX7219 Matrix LED TIMER24 days ago

    Well, I checked the available code and examples.So far everything I found in the playground worked as advertised.You asked for help without any further details provided.And without those it is next to impossible to know what exactly might be your problem.For some reason I don't have to time and money to order everything, code it, test it and then provide the resulting code as a solution....

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  • Downunder35m commented on MauroGB's forum topic MAX7219 Matrix LED TIMER25 days ago

    Literally the first hit if Google is used:http://bfy.tw/MQRcBut I guess using Google or at least checking the Arduino Playground is too obvious these days ;)

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  • That bug with the login should be fixed and is no longer happening for me.Although it is the "common cure", did you try to clear your browser cache?

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  • Well, I had another go with a mate of mine and his toolbox.This time we did it all in the right order and amounts!So first a few beers while the valve heats in the oven.Then some swearing as there is always dumb enough not to use proper gloves when handling the valve.Last but not least another quick beer and then some long pipe on heavy duty automotive spanners - the kind used ofr wheel hubs and such.Note to self: Do not try again to use two spanners on something that is NOT secured in some vice or similar....After several painful moments we dicided to try the vice again and of course we pulled the screws through the workbench once the pipe was added.There must be somthing preventing movement.Or it is just a great way no one ever tries to fix these things LOL

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  • I gave up on F5 and such as it did not really change anything.Too much of a luck thing.But tried the first line approach a few times now and it works for me.

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  • Won't work as these seals in ball valves are quite sturdy.I even copied paper and rubber gaskets with my laser cutter, but can't really recommend that anyone dares to do it with rubber.It is a huge mess both in toxic fumes and cleaning up the machine :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on marc.deloor.5's forum topic Some statistics26 days ago

    Not really...Depends on the approach.Some people try to help out when they have some free time, others might just be interested in certain things.So if you only check every few weeks and still find things worth your attention or interest then just feel free to comment :)It is not the quantity but the quality that counts ;)And to be honest, a lot of topics and questions still originate from users who registered that same day and never come back anyways....

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  • Ok I wasted some more trying to replicate the issue.In many cases when opening a question or topic, but more now questions, it seems impossible to get the cursor into the text box.If loading it in a new window it works fine.Similar story if you try to paste some text into the window.However, I just realised the sensitivity of the text box to where the mouse pointer is located.Only if it is within the first line where text can be entered, a click will get you going.Try it just bit further down and you won't be able to get usable response.This is currently on Win7 64 Ultimate and the latest Firefox.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Atlasx111's forum topic Negative Ion Generator27 days ago

    I don't get the question, sorry.

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