FluxGarage

Hi Bruno,thank you for your feedback! Let me add some comments to your points:1. Thanks!2. The drive dog is actually a well known part in the RC boat hobby industry, so it should be available widely on the internet. Try searching "drive dog 5mm" at ebay. Another good option is to 3D-print it, since it's a very simple part.3. Yes, as mentioned above in the answer to onders335, I also wanted to use one of the cheaper bearings with parallel holes, but I assumed there will be problems with the screws from the upper and lower plate, because they might block each other. So I used the quality bearing from "triangle oshkosh" with the different hole positions for the upper and lower plates.What is your experience so far, does your bearing-solution work smoothly?

Hi onders335,thank you for letting us know! Initially I also wanted to use a bearing with parallel holes for top and bottom, but I recognized that in this version the screws sometimes get too close to each other and the plate might get stuck. Could it be that the screws are your real problem?

Hi, will Step 5 ("Activate the Camera Shutter With a Microcontroller") work similarly with a smartphone and a trrs plug?Anyway, it would be a great update for this instructable to add smartphone camera triggering.

Hi matuskms,this controller can't yet trigger smartphone cameras, but I'm experimenting with bluetooth/wifi camera triggering. So there may be another controller version ready within the next few months.

Hi JanezD,with some further development work, it should be possible to extend this controller with wifi functionality. For example, you could add an esp8266 wifi module and replace the content of the snap(); function with the wifi trigger code.I'm planning to develop a new controller version that is able to do such things, but I don't know yet when I will have time to do that.

Hi bcboy,yes, the easydriver supports mircostepping and thus each full step is based on 8 microsteps. I think it makes sense to multiply your 2038 full-steps with 8 and look if that works:-> "rotate(16304/shootingsteps, shootingspeed)"It seems that your stepper motor is an unipolar motor with 5 wires? I'm also not familiar with all the different stepper motor types, but as mentioned on the easydriver page, 5 wire motors probably don't work:"You can use 4-wire, 6-wire or 8-wire stepper motors. The only kind you can't use is 5-wire stepper motors. (They need uni-polar drivers.)"http://www.schmalzhaus.com/EasyDriver/

Hi bcboy, there are two functions in the code for rotating the stepper motor:- void rotate(int steps, float speed)- void rotateDeg(float deg, float speed)Currently, the rotageDeg is used, where the input argument is a degree value. I'd suggest to use the "rotate function" where you can just use a "steps" value as an argument. So you should go to te "void photoshooting()" function and replace the line "rotateDeg(360/shootingsteps, shootingspeed);" with "rotate(2038/shootingsteps, shootingspeed) first.If you use the advanced controller, the value "shootingsteps" can be 10, 20 or 40, so the 2038 will be divided by the selected value. I'm not sure if there will be rounding problems then. You could then try to declare the "steps"…

Hi bcboy, there are two functions in the code for rotating the stepper motor:- void rotate(int steps, float speed)- void rotateDeg(float deg, float speed)Currently, the rotageDeg is used, where the input argument is a degree value. I'd suggest to use the "rotate function" where you can just use a "steps" value as an argument. So you should go to te "void photoshooting()" function and replace the line "rotateDeg(360/shootingsteps, shootingspeed);" with "rotate(2038/shootingsteps, shootingspeed) first.If you use the advanced controller, the value "shootingsteps" can be 10, 20 or 40, so the 2038 will be divided by the selected value. I'm not sure if there will be rounding problems then. You could then try to declare the "steps" as a float variable:void rotate(float steps, float speed)I hope I could point you in the right direction.

Hi Carlos, thank you for your feedback and the hint to the updated multicamerairlibrary. Could you post a link to the library version from 2016?

Hi chadfx, thank you. In general, this turntable is indeed made to be used with small and light objects like jewelery, cartoon figures, technical gadgets and so on. But sure, it should be possible to hack it a bit and make it work for higher loads. The main limitation is, that the stepper motor drives the turntable directly from the center, which will become ineffective when using higher loads.Using a stronger motor is one option, therefore you have to add higher standoff spacers between the middle- and bottom plate. For heavier objects, you sometimes also need to fill the tiny gap between the drive dog and the hole in the upper plate to avoid the turntable from shaking when it stops.I think, it wouldn't make sense to use this turntable for objects more than 1 or 2kgs, but I did not yet t…

Hi chadfx, thank you. In general, this turntable is indeed made to be used with small and light objects like jewelery, cartoon figures, technical gadgets and so on. But sure, it should be possible to hack it a bit and make it work for higher loads. The main limitation is, that the stepper motor drives the turntable directly from the center, which will become ineffective when using higher loads.Using a stronger motor is one option, therefore you have to add higher standoff spacers between the middle- and bottom plate. For heavier objects, you sometimes also need to fill the tiny gap between the drive dog and the hole in the upper plate to avoid the turntable from shaking when it stops.I think, it wouldn't make sense to use this turntable for objects more than 1 or 2kgs, but I did not yet test the maximum possible load.

Hi Charhead, thank you for your feedback! Glad to hear that the controller works with your Nikon and Olympus cameras. Wish you lots of fun with your project ;)

Hi Shakkarius, it seems that you are trying to compile the code for an ATtiny chip, right? Both versions of the current controller code are considered to be used with an Arduino Uno, meaning an ATmega328 chip.I know that there are some instructables here on how to use an ATtiny85 chip as a stepper motor controller, but I did not check them in detail. E.g. this:https://www.instructables.com/Attiny85-as-a-StepDir-Stepper-Motor-Controller/

You're welcome! If you have any further questions, feel free to post them ;)

Regarding the stepper motor driving board: I'm using the original "Easydriver" board (with A3967) and the "Big Easy Driver" board from Sparkfun (also the A3967). I also added heatsinks and they both still get really hot, but in my case they work fine without burning or exploding :)Regarding the bearing's noise:Yes, the bearings itself are un-lubricated. This is what the manufacturer mentions in the description: "Note: Lazy susan turntables are supplied un-lubricated and may sound noisy until lubricated with either oil or grease as determined by your application."

Hi,the drivedog I used is actually a part that is used in RC boat technology, so it should be able to tolerate even higher torque forces and rotation speeds without breaking loose.Did you check that the tiny screw of the drive dog faces against the flat side of the stepper motor's d-shaft? You could also try to add some threadlocker glue that fixes the screw and the drive dog even more. There are several suppliers of such drive dogs e.g. at ebay. Also, many hobby rc boat suppliers offer such parts. When you buy it, you have to double check that the inner diameter is 5mm (or the actual diameter of your stepper motor, if different). Sure, there are some other solutions for connecting the motor's shaft to the turntable's upper plate. But realizing them would be a different approach with some…

Hi,the drivedog I used is actually a part that is used in RC boat technology, so it should be able to tolerate even higher torque forces and rotation speeds without breaking loose.Did you check that the tiny screw of the drive dog faces against the flat side of the stepper motor's d-shaft? You could also try to add some threadlocker glue that fixes the screw and the drive dog even more. There are several suppliers of such drive dogs e.g. at ebay. Also, many hobby rc boat suppliers offer such parts. When you buy it, you have to double check that the inner diameter is 5mm (or the actual diameter of your stepper motor, if different). Sure, there are some other solutions for connecting the motor's shaft to the turntable's upper plate. But realizing them would be a different approach with some efforts, of course.3D-Printing or creating a custom part on a lathe machine could be an option. Also, you could search for "aluminum mounting hub for 5mm shaft", but this is almost the same as using a drive dog.I hope I could help you.

Hi msantasa, I guess you are talking about a 3d printer, right? The eps-files I published are considered for lasercutting only. But you could try to import the eps-file's paths in your preferred 3d modeling program and extrude them by 3mm. With this technique it should be possible to create a proper 3d model of the frontplate and print it on your 3d printer. I'm actually not familiar with 3d printing, so I unfortunately can't help you in detail.

Hi wokawayo,in the controller's code, the default value for the speed is 0.03 and can be up to 1.00. So the movement can be definitely lots of faster than shown in the videos. I did not yet test the value 1.00 but I guess there will also be some limitations on the hardware side, meaning the easydriver board and the steppermotor.

Thank you! :)

Thank you! Will you build it? :)

Thank you! :)