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  • SainSmart InstaBots Upright Rover(Self-Balancing Robot With Arduino)

    AshleyWebb76,Here is a brief description of the board that you received:http://www.sainsmart.com/robotics/instabots/sainsm...Bob W.

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  • SainSmart InstaBots Upright Rover(Self-Balancing Robot With Arduino)

    Ashleywebb76,On mine, as I look into the three holes where the power wires go, the LEFT one says Ground, the RIGHT one says VIN the the CENTER one says 5v. I think you want the red wire from your 12v battery to the RIGHT hole.Bob

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  • SainSmart InstaBots Upright Rover(Self-Balancing Robot With Arduino)

    LiquidHandWashCongratulations. I am glad you got it working. Here are photos of my controller and robot. Not that I added a $.50 switch and a three inch wire to the controller so that I did not have to disconnect the battery all of the time. I added a 12 inch "training skid" to the bottom and a 3M brand Filament tape strap to the top, so that I have something to grab when it starts to run away. I also added a piece of popsicle stick taped to the bottom of the top shelf and extending over the on/off switch, because my fingers are too large to reach under the top shelf.Bob

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  • SainSmart InstaBots Upright Rover(Self-Balancing Robot With Arduino)

    LiquidHandWashI downloaded mine from the SainSmart site on Instabots in the Version 3 page. It was included in the zip file that included the Arduino 1.5.2 program. Are you remembering that the controller uses the Arduino UNO and that the robot uses the Arduino Mega. Before you download the code to the processor, you have go to TOOLS / BOARD and select which type of board you are downloading to.It is possible that your .ino for the controller is different that the one I have. Here are my first 41 lines of code:// SainSmart Instabots Upright Rover rev. 2.0// http://www.sainsmart.com#include <SPI.h>#include <Mirf.h>#include <nRF24L01.h>#include <MirfHardwareSpiDriver.h>#include <Wire.h>#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 16, 2...

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    LiquidHandWashI downloaded mine from the SainSmart site on Instabots in the Version 3 page. It was included in the zip file that included the Arduino 1.5.2 program. Are you remembering that the controller uses the Arduino UNO and that the robot uses the Arduino Mega. Before you download the code to the processor, you have go to TOOLS / BOARD and select which type of board you are downloading to.It is possible that your .ino for the controller is different that the one I have. Here are my first 41 lines of code:// SainSmart Instabots Upright Rover rev. 2.0// http://www.sainsmart.com#include <SPI.h>#include <Mirf.h>#include <nRF24L01.h>#include <MirfHardwareSpiDriver.h>#include <Wire.h>#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 16, 2);unsigned int Display_Counter, Button_Delay = 0;struct Axis { uint16_t axis_1; uint16_t axis_2; uint16_t axis_3; uint16_t axis_4; uint16_t axis_5; uint16_t axis_6; uint16_t axis_7; uint16_t axis_8;};Axis axis_x;struct Gesture { float angle; float omega; int speed; int P; int I; int D; uint16_t null_1; uint16_t null_2;};Gesture data;void setup() { pinMode(2, INPUT); lcd.init();lcd.init();Good luck.Bob

    LiquidHandWashYou can look in your LIBRARY and look at LiquidCrystal_I2C.hMine starts with "//YWROBOT " and contains " void init() " (Use Control-f to find it). You can probably get a new copy of that library by searching the net for " Arduino LiquidCrystal_I2C.h "The first init error in your code is on line 43. The first init in MY code is on line 41. I wonder where your two extra lines came from.

    LiquidHandWashlook on this page at past comments from a few months ago, V00D001234 posted info from SainSmart on how to wire the Controller. Your line of blocks can be cured by adjusting the potentiometer on the back of the display. Mine is a blue 1/4 inch cube and is adjusted with a small phillips screwdriver. I expect that you will have to take the controller apart in order to do it, but you only need to do it one-time.Bob

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  • SainSmart InstaBots Upright Rover(Self-Balancing Robot With Arduino)

    The web site that you reference applies to Version 1 (SKU# xxx-401). There is a button to click that will take you to version 2 (SKU# xxx-403) or version 3 (SKU# xxx-405). Some say that version 3 is sometimes called Pro, but has the same SKU.Version 1 is three levels high, and has a 'controller' without a LED display. Version 2 is also three levels high, and the 'controller' has a LED display. Version 3 is only two levels high, and has a LED display. The motors could be different between the versions, and even between the earlier version 3 and later version 3. The web site for each version contains downloadable code for that version, under the heading DOCUMENTS (located below PACKAGE LIST). The video on the Sainsite web site is NOT viewable in the USA without using some secret de...

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    The web site that you reference applies to Version 1 (SKU# xxx-401). There is a button to click that will take you to version 2 (SKU# xxx-403) or version 3 (SKU# xxx-405). Some say that version 3 is sometimes called Pro, but has the same SKU.Version 1 is three levels high, and has a 'controller' without a LED display. Version 2 is also three levels high, and the 'controller' has a LED display. Version 3 is only two levels high, and has a LED display. The motors could be different between the versions, and even between the earlier version 3 and later version 3. The web site for each version contains downloadable code for that version, under the heading DOCUMENTS (located below PACKAGE LIST). The video on the Sainsite web site is NOT viewable in the USA without using some secret de-coder software, because some companies are getting their shorts in a bunch regarding who should pay whom for being able to display each others material. I have viewed that video and was disappointed with it, especially after going through the effort to de-code it.I hope you have a plesant experience with your new robots.Bob

    eamonduffy,Changing the 'map' of the joy-stick values had NO effect on my robot. Mine will balance by itself for more than a minute (wandering around a six foot area) and then take off backwards, trying to tip over. I had added a 'training skid' to mine to minimize damage to the robot. It is just a 12 inch piece of 3/32 aluminum that is about 1 inch wide. It is bolted to the bottom of the bottom plate, using existing holes, a little off center. When it would take off running, it would tip onto that skid and go across a large open area and I would have to go retrieve it. I have just now modified the code by changing the 'tip-over' angle that causes the computer to stop, from 45 degrees, to 25 degrees. The robot still makes a mad dash for freedom after one or two minutes, but it st...

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    eamonduffy,Changing the 'map' of the joy-stick values had NO effect on my robot. Mine will balance by itself for more than a minute (wandering around a six foot area) and then take off backwards, trying to tip over. I had added a 'training skid' to mine to minimize damage to the robot. It is just a 12 inch piece of 3/32 aluminum that is about 1 inch wide. It is bolted to the bottom of the bottom plate, using existing holes, a little off center. When it would take off running, it would tip onto that skid and go across a large open area and I would have to go retrieve it. I have just now modified the code by changing the 'tip-over' angle that causes the computer to stop, from 45 degrees, to 25 degrees. The robot still makes a mad dash for freedom after one or two minutes, but it stops before it gets very far.I think that the current ability to balance would be adequate IF i could control the forward and reverse movement. Turns still seem marginally OK.I have eMailed SainSmart asking for recommendations, so in the meantime I will work on different robot and a reverse geo-quest box project that has been being neglected.Bob

    Richard B24,I don't know which version you have (SKU -401, -403, or -405), but I suspect that you may not have your battery wired correctly. I think you ought to have a 11.5 volt battery connected to the motor control board, the black wire to the GND connector and the red wire to the VIN connector. If your battery has two heavy wires and another plug with four fine wires, do not use the fine wires.Bob

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  • SainSmart InstaBots Upright Rover(Self-Balancing Robot With Arduino)

    That regulator should have been soldered -- looks like a factory error. I suspect that the 'adhesive' was to secure it to the board as a heat-shield. You could solder it yourself if you have a fine point soldering iron and some good solder. Your battery hook-up looks OK.

    Mine behaves similar to yours. The Right Joystick should control the right-turn/left-turn, and the Left Joystick should control the forward/backward. Mine turns pretty well, but seems to have no forward/backward control. I am modifying the code - around line 182 there are two 'if' statements referring to axis-4 (the Left Joystick forward/back control). They 'map' the joystick to values from 0-100. I will increase the value 100 (and -100) until I see an effect. Maybe tomorrow. My current PID values are 22 6.6 and 3.3.Bob

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