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Hello, what is it you want to know? I must caution that I worked on this a long time ago and I have forgotten quite a bit!
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Hi JuhoP3, the manufacturers manuals for the Sim900/A is adaquate. Google it and most will be revealed. I think I put a variety of links in either this Instructable or in my other one about the same module and using it in Australia. Just search my instructables.
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hi WenukaB, I talk about that in my Instructables about the same module-do a search using my handle and I’m sure you will find them. Anyhow what worked for me was a cheap power regulator from eBay and a large storage cap on the output. I happened to have a 5V 1F super cap so I used that and it worked 100%. Smaller caps may work too, you must just be able to supply the instantaneous peak current. There are also standard websites that also talk about the required power supply.
hi Radamirez, I don't know if your power supply will work as I don't know the unit. What you want is a supply that can push >2A for a few mS, and is less powerful for the rest of the time. A large filter cap will do the job. Otherwise a heavy duty supply is required with good transient response. Using the Arduino as a 3V power source will not work. Hope that helps!
hi Mybotic I can't understand how this works, as to transmit the module draws some 2A, and that draw using your connections resets the module as the supply voltage falls too low. This is a commonly known issue with these modules. What did you do to make it work?
hi Radamirez, you need a common ground so all the signals have a common voltage reference. The 2 grounds are connected on the module so you only need 1 wire from the module to the Arduino. Hope that helps!
hi KashifK2, sorry for the late reply - not sure what happened. I hope you have fixed it by now as I don't have any good news, other than to suggest you make sure you have loaded software serial code to make the serial port work.I have a vague recollection that the module requires hardware serial, but I'm not sure anymore. As 2G has been discontinued in Australia I can't use this module so I've not done anything with it for the last 2 years.
Try Your Hand at Installing CorniceView Instructable »
Hi all, I have built the electronics based on this design, thanks Avandalen! I designed my own PCB (and got the thyristors backwards (D'OH)!) nevertheless it works wonderfully now. I'm using a cheap Chinese Arduino micropro as the controller, and I dropped out some of the transient protection devices as I felt they are unlikely to be needed...I'm gambling on that! Programming the Micropro is easy and cost me very little. I did have some problems with it though as the through holes vias are not that well made and I could not get it to trigger reliably. Soldering the wire both sides fixed that. By then I had added shottky diodes already so I left them in place.Ive yet to build the electrode holders, but I bought some 6mm spot welding electrodes from AliExpress, but they are a 5mm shaft…
Hi all, I have built the electronics based on this design, thanks Avandalen! I designed my own PCB (and got the thyristors backwards (D'OH)!) nevertheless it works wonderfully now. I'm using a cheap Chinese Arduino micropro as the controller, and I dropped out some of the transient protection devices as I felt they are unlikely to be needed...I'm gambling on that! Programming the Micropro is easy and cost me very little. I did have some problems with it though as the through holes vias are not that well made and I could not get it to trigger reliably. Soldering the wire both sides fixed that. By then I had added shottky diodes already so I left them in place.Ive yet to build the electrode holders, but I bought some 6mm spot welding electrodes from AliExpress, but they are a 5mm shaft cut with a M6 thread, and that has caused me lots of grief.Anyhow, I did a recording of the output using a Powermonic PM35 power quality monitor with 3000A CT's, output shorted. Results attached. You can see the 50ms and 400ms pulses clearly at about 1100A RMS, and the impact on the supply voltage when operating as I was also measuring the 240VAC source voltage at the load. I could not record shorter pulses as the rise time is too slow for the PM35 to trigger a transient recording (the snubber works!).A test weld on a battery with 400ms pulse burned a hole, but I suspect thats my poor test electrode holder and I did not apply enough pressure.I like this design - it works well and teh control is easy to modify if needed. Kudos to the original author.
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Oh, another thing... theres a new version out :https://github.com/olikraus/u8glibAnd pin5 (rd) must be taken to Vcc for my T6863C
Hiya, thx for the post, for what its worth my display has N/C on pin 9, and has 22 pins, so from pin 9 each display pin is increased by 1.. Pin 21 and 22 are backlight LED, Oh, and leg 3 of the Pot must be grounded.
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hiya RichardS440, I have been waiting for comments from the community. I've seen several shields, and a few industrial modules. Besides that, the modules cost some $100+, so I've not been able to play. Hopefully they will come down in price soon. I wonder if one can repurpose the new Nokia 3310 as a modem for this purpose?Thx for reading!
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