Hey Jude

Yes - they are just heated up and inserted. You can use a soldering iron if you prefer. The trick is to start slowly, to void overheating or drilling holes too big (material off is better than 'on', etc.). Good luck!

Super - we'll have it up on GitHub asap also.

Hey GuidoGood news is - I have the Gerber Files from the EE who did them.Bad news is - Instructables does not support the file to upload.Would you please DM me your email and I'll send them to you.I'll put them on GitHub in due course...J

Awesome news - can't wait to see it. Do you have any personal embelishments or customisations you are planning?

Thanks so much! Glad the writing around the technical bits was enjoyable =)

By chance was speaking with a friend in Wales, and quite a few sheep have only been recently sheared. So I guess it varies a lot by area and climate, and perhaps breed of sheep??

1) - You can put the pump stones anywhere you like. That is part of the 'randomisation' of the game. I tend to only place them where there is a 'blank' but anywhere is fine - it's your call!

4) - The 'Meat Pie' - haha - this really shows how easy it is to slip into colloquialisms of the culture you know. Meat Pies in the UK are seen as arguably seen as 'wholesome and hearty working-class food' from days of working labour intensive jobs... some might say, so this kind of implies that you'd get a good boost of Carbohydrates to see you on your way as you adventure on. Thanks for drawing attention to this as it could do with a little clarity!!

Thanks to Mark for the DM request. Excited to see what you'll do. Please share when fully translated!Glad you enjoyed the RadioGlobe - it is a bit more involved that one, perhaps when they are older ;o)

Wow - Can I just say - this is AMAZING - so great when someone makes an Instructable (so you know the guide is legit!). Thanks for the great pictures - made my Day to see these!

Hi Guido,Sorry for slow reply - was just checking in with the guy who did the PCB for me. I'll try and upload the Gerber files when they are back from Holiday...You are correct that the 'Protoboard Hats' are just of Amazon, and you can solder those yourself, DIY, just as I did. For a 1-off this seems sensible, as the circuit is not super complex. However, if money is not a big issue, you can of course get a quote for the PCB from the Gerber Files.Hope this helps =)

Thank you for the kind comments! Please do share anything you'd made from Chiengora (or more typical fibres too!).

Thanks so much for the kind comment. Yes, we do get a kick out of trying to do things cheaply, even if I respect 'time' is the big luxury for things like this!

Thank you - glad the guide was 'clear'. I tend to write detailed guides as often it's the small details which you can miss if you're new to it. So please keep me posted on how you get on. My son was probably 5 and 1/2, when we did this first, so it's a nice age! And you're correct that many fences will have some. You don't actually need that much to get started - a few good handfulls will work.

Re: Rotary Encoders, the vertical one can work with a wider tolerance for being 4 or 6mm dia, as this uses a coupling - and you can just get whatever you need to fit. However, the horizontal RE would need you to modify the CAD, or drill out the hole slightly. This is not a huge task, so long as you do it with care, going from 4mm-->6mm is likely to be ok, and could even add some epoxy around the central shaft (3D printed part) first, and let it set, so as to add strength. Just a thought.Good luck, and no worries on the questions! =D

Sorry - can't see picture?

Hi Guido,The RasPi4 was used as it was the latest Pi when I was doing it. However, it is arguably 'overkill' and so 1 or 4 GB versions will more than run it.It works on a RasPi3B+ also. And I'm told in principle it will work with lower models also.Hope this helps!Jude

Hi Guido,You can use any RasPi 1GB or 4GB - both have the same physical structure so the CAD files will work. Do keep me posted of your progress!! Any questions, please ask =)J

This is so great! Please would you post translation when you find time. (My wife actually works in translation, so this is especially interesting - and fine if you say 'this has no equivalent!' - sometimes that's the really intriguing stuff!!). No pressure, but can't wait to see these 'in action' also...

Oh cool! Please would you post an image when you get a moment? Would be so cool to see it =D(Just look above the comments to the "I made it" button)

Nice guide - and congrats!If you add masking tape to the back of your rule, it skids less. (Not for you, but for noobs).=D

Have to say that is some nice detailing there....nice work!! =D

Yes, I doubt you'll squash a chicken, anymore than anyone can ever catch a pigeon! They may be dumb, but they are fast! But yes, for the sake of getting kids to appreciate 'safety in electronics and mechanics' it's a good problem to set kids. The counter sounds really tricky the more I think about it! xD Good luck!

Hiya, this is a nice project - thanks for sharing. I was wondering about that 350lb force on the actuator. I really doubt it *would* crush a chicken, they are pretty quick reflexed animals, and would be scatty at anything, so I get this is not a 'risk'. But it got me thinking how might you create a 'anti-crush' switch, just in case, (being at a school) a kid was sill enough to 'play chicken' with the closing door.... I was thinking something like a micro switch, but of course the floor could have debris so this could have a false trigger. I considered a light gate, but chickens being messy, might get left open. One could possibly use a train gauge, to stop if the resistive force peaked before door was shut but perhaps a bit elaborate? Lastly, I did think it might be fun to have a 'chicken…

Hiya, this is a nice project - thanks for sharing. I was wondering about that 350lb force on the actuator. I really doubt it *would* crush a chicken, they are pretty quick reflexed animals, and would be scatty at anything, so I get this is not a 'risk'. But it got me thinking how might you create a 'anti-crush' switch, just in case, (being at a school) a kid was sill enough to 'play chicken' with the closing door.... I was thinking something like a micro switch, but of course the floor could have debris so this could have a false trigger. I considered a light gate, but chickens being messy, might get left open. One could possibly use a train gauge, to stop if the resistive force peaked before door was shut but perhaps a bit elaborate? Lastly, I did think it might be fun to have a 'chicken counter', in that you could possibly count in/out the chickens....I imagined this might be a job for AI, as probably a light gate will fail, as chicken flock erratically and you may get 2 for 1, etc. Anyway, I get this is a fun project for a school, not an industrial piece of equipment (heck, they just pay a farmhand to do this!), but for the sake of kids and making it work with code, I thought it was a really nice 'extension' to see how the kids would solve this! Thanks again, and good luck!

This is a really clever hack - thanks for sharing! Good luck on Contest!

Oh wow - this is so cool that this has made it across the ocean and to new countries! And love the variations on the rule - thsi is very much what Mark and I hoped for!

So I've never heard of candle glue until now...why did you use this rather than say Hot Melt? I did look it up, but wondered why you specifically used it. What else is it good for? thx

Fluffy needs a 'Ghost Dog' - love it!! xD

Thanks so much - and glad you enjoyed the Backstory stuff also. =)

Thank you - appreciate it! Nice when it all comes together in time!

Thanks so much! Mark and I are very pleased indeed =)

Hey Julien,I guess you're new to Instructables contests - no problemo =) The good news is there is a TinkerCAD prize - in addition - to all the other prizes that don't need to use TinkerCAD. Think of it as a bonus prize!!If you're wondering why I added a note to the judges, it's because I uploaded the Goats and Llama CAD using TinkerCAD, but I stressed that they were not modelled in it. It was done in ZBrush, but it's useful to have it in TinkerCAD as it this is optimal for people in Instructables. So I was just being clear...Just to reassure you - no foul play ;o)This is in the finals as it qualifies as a boardgame. Hope this helps! Enjoy!

Thanks! I always worry that the 'epic' guide will intimidate people and put them off, but it's because I write steps on the basics, that it's so long. I think if you're good in the workshop, you probably just need like 5 steps! But I also know what it's like to be a noob, and you need the granular detail or it looks messy. Looking forward to seeing others make it tho - but it's certainly a full weekend (or more like 2 part time) project!

This is so great - nice pictures and guide as well. Looks great fun!

Looking very cool, Mark!

Good spot - thanks for that!! Updated now =)Glad you liked the game, please share with anyone else who might like it!

Whooop Whoop! Thanks =)

ICYMI - You don't *need* a 3D Printer, you can make it all from Card and Paper.

Yeah - now you got the Goat vs Llama FEVER!!

GREAT! And ICYMI, Mark just uploaded some 'no-3d-printer-necessary' game pieces, just so you have both options! Please share any pics in 'I Made It' section too!

Thanks! I'm a bit of a 'Mutt', but I'll take it nonetheless. One day I will have a moustache like that :{

Thanks - it's been a team effort with Mark. Hard to believe it's been so smooth, given we've never actually met in person! Thanks again for the kind words and acknoeledgement - make it all worth it!

HUGE Credit goes to the amazing Mark Greenbaum, who did the VO and Edit. I shot the footage in my shed, on my iPhone and am amazed at how well it turned out. Glad KS went well with you, we certainly contemplated it, but honestly re-designed this to explore what 'Downloadable Physical Play' might mean to people. This is a really exciting experiment to see...let us know if you make one!

I don't think you'll regret it. I actually WON my first 3D printer on Instructables many years ago with a Solder Buddy project. I now also have a Ender 3, which for c.$200/£185 is honestly a bargain, and works so well. I've used my loads. Thanks for the kind comments!

Wow - I dunno what to say, this is very kind. Mark will be very proud to see this later also! Also, Mark just finished some 'paper based' game pieces (in case people don't have access / can't afford 3D printing) - see above! Please let us know how the kids get on, having worked in a few companies I can honestly say Toy and Game design is a real test of 'Design Skills' on many levels (sorry - no pun intended!).

Haha - thanks - glad you like it =)

Great guide. It's a small thing, but I love that you made the batteries visible. Great guide, and someone beat me to it to suggest glue on the burnt bits - but this is a small detail, and such a nice invention. My son's a bit older now, but would have loved this (I've also submitted a game for when you kid is older!! haha!). Will follow your future work! =D

Hi again, so personally, I rather liked that this was battery powered, and hence was not possible to run 24/7. I am no expert on circadian rhythms of birds, but I think it'd be unkind to run at night, right? (You'd be annoyed!!). Haha!That said, I googled if Birds can see IR, and apparently not, so if you were keen to would convert to IR Camera (Raspberry Pi has this for example). Hope this helps...

Hello - great that you're trying the project! I found that one of the key things here is not to have cats able to jump in to the 'flight path' of the approach to the Box. As for the WiFi setup, I have wondered if you could even use a solar panel, but I think it makes more sense to not run the device all the time, as the LEDs are quite warm over hours I suspect. The side window was bright enough for images, but in truth that one had not been nested in, so perhaps it's too 'weird' for them - but this is part of the fun of the experiment!

I found we can walk some distance away - like 10m easily. Our garden is not very large, so I can't say I've tested much more that that. But I saw this as a way to 'check in' on the birds rather than create a 24/7 setup. Hope this helps? =)

Hi - let me know if this all works out ok. 'Milnepe' has some good suggestions in comments. Thanks for bearing with us!

Hi - sorry I had login issue with this site. Back now. It should be updated via the latest GitPull.

Hi there, sorry - I had login issue with this site. It should just gitpull and do an update - how far did you get with this?I did do it myself and it worked fine, and I have no special stuff. Mine is a RasPi4B.

Yeah that’s true. It’s all updated now on GitHub. Perhaps try a Git Pull? Or if not update the json file.

That sounds great fun!! Good luck!

The Jog wheel is the little round thing on the right side.There is no 'scanner' as such, it is a list of stations paired with coordinates.Hope that helps =)

Hi - it goes to the nearest city. You use the Jog Wheel to scroll through. The update is coming soon with 15,000+ stations.

The 'correction' factor is an interesting one, I agree it depends on getting a nice globe. I got one from Amazon and it was way off, but for $10/£10 it's hard to expect perfection. To be fair I sent it back for a refund and got another an it was fine. I'd be inclined to perhaps 'centre' the 0,0 coordinate in such a way that it 'splits the different' of the general error of your globe. e.g. if things are a bit West-offset, centre with an East counter offset. If that makes sense?I'll certainly mention it in case it has an easy fix, but scaling the lookup table sounds tricky, as the distortion is also not constant. In an ideal world, you'd pick a 0,0 then say pick 10 major cities and calibrate on each of these, then the map would 'magically' interpolate between all of these. haha. I say that…

The 'correction' factor is an interesting one, I agree it depends on getting a nice globe. I got one from Amazon and it was way off, but for $10/£10 it's hard to expect perfection. To be fair I sent it back for a refund and got another an it was fine. I'd be inclined to perhaps 'centre' the 0,0 coordinate in such a way that it 'splits the different' of the general error of your globe. e.g. if things are a bit West-offset, centre with an East counter offset. If that makes sense?I'll certainly mention it in case it has an easy fix, but scaling the lookup table sounds tricky, as the distortion is also not constant. In an ideal world, you'd pick a 0,0 then say pick 10 major cities and calibrate on each of these, then the map would 'magically' interpolate between all of these. haha. I say that not being a coder. But in theory that is what 3D printers do with auto-levelling of the bed, so in principle it's possible, but of course more complex! I'll ask tho ;o)

Thanks for uploading the picture - so cool! Like the funky buttons and reticule highlight. Looks very playful!

Hello Markus!Please would you upload a photo to the section above! We'd love to see it =DRegards the issues, I know we have some bugs, but the good news is we have a Git update due any day now, and it's fixed a lot of that stuff - and we have not 15k stations!I'll ping here again when I get the approval from the Dev guys. (I'm just the idea guy - I don't do the smart bit! haha!).Looking forward to seeing the pictures! PS - May I ask what country you're from? Always curious as to where RadioGlobe finds a home ;o)