Jan5412

Marc,I don't see which LEDs you use, but I would divide thelighting into a number of pieces and control them in parallel so that a simpleprocessor can handle it.To program the whole thing, you can get inspiration from themakers of a LED cube 8 * 8 * 8 and 16 * 16 * 16 with neon pixels and / or RGBLEDs that can be found on the internet. Then you could make your own patterns,the ability to control via audio and remote control.The cubes have it all.Kind regards,Jan

Also had the idea to add minutes and hours and the construction in such a way that no 3D printer is needed. I'm going to think about it.

I see that people are worried about the consumption and the 24W is incorrectly calculated and 1.65 Wh per day indeed seems more real. But still, place an RCWL-0516 Microwave Motion Sensor and only let the clock show the time when someone is nearby or else you will turn back all segments so no time display. Saves at least half of energy consumption and your servos last longer. You could even turn off the power to the controls and sevo's.As an example for using an RCWL-0516 Microwave Motion Sensor see my clock.https://www.instructables.com/Rainbow-Letter-Clock-With-a-Full-Rainbow-Effect/

https://www.instructables.com/NTP-Synchronised-Wordclock/

Andre,Mooie klok geworden. Bij heel Holland bakt zou men zeggensmaakt naar meer, dus op naar het volgende project.Mvg Jan.

A similar projecthttps://www.instructables.com/Waste-Material-Atmosphere-Lighting-Lamps/

choucroutemelba,I needed an RF controller for an Arduino project. The used module was sufficient and was cheap.I had the option to purchase a separate receiver or to use the corresponding receiver.That is why I only use the receiver part.Jan.

choucroutemelbaI did not find the data sheet from WL500P either, but from ZY500.http://www.pingjia-ic.com/uploadfiles/file/2017419...Is in Chinese but Google translate is your friend.I think this ic is similar and is used in cheap receiver modules.According to the datasheet it uses 3,5 mA at 433 Mhz and 5 volts.In the instructables you can see that I have removed the processor and the mosfet.The consumption is then 3.63 mA, so it cannot get much less and is about the same as a cheap module.The receiver comes with the remote control, so why would you buy a receiver module if it can also be used, I thought, and that is why I have adapted it to use with an Arduino.The processor on the board has no code imprint so unknown.I suspect that it is a simple PIC with a decoding program, which is now…

choucroutemelbaI did not find the data sheet from WL500P either, but from ZY500.http://www.pingjia-ic.com/uploadfiles/file/2017419...Is in Chinese but Google translate is your friend.I think this ic is similar and is used in cheap receiver modules.According to the datasheet it uses 3,5 mA at 433 Mhz and 5 volts.In the instructables you can see that I have removed the processor and the mosfet.The consumption is then 3.63 mA, so it cannot get much less and is about the same as a cheap module.The receiver comes with the remote control, so why would you buy a receiver module if it can also be used, I thought, and that is why I have adapted it to use with an Arduino.The processor on the board has no code imprint so unknown.I suspect that it is a simple PIC with a decoding program, which is now taken over by the Arduino.Jan.

choucroutemelba,The processor on the board has no code imprint so unknown.I suspect that it is a simple PIC with a decoding program.Jan.

choucroutemelba,I did not find the data sheet from WL500P either, but from ZY500.http://www.pingjia-ic.com/uploadfiles/file/2017419...Is in Chinese but Google translate is your friend.I think this ic is similar and is used in cheap receiver modules.According to the datasheet it uses 3,5 mA at 433 Mhz and 5 volts.In the instructables you can see that I have removed the processor and the mosfet.The consumption is then 3.63 mA, so it cannot get much less and is about the same as a cheap module.The receiver comes with the remote control, so why would you buy a receiver module if it can also be used, I thought, and that is why I have adapted it to use with an Arduino.The processor on the board has no code imprint so unknown.I suspect that it is a simple PIC with a decoding program, which is no…

choucroutemelba,I did not find the data sheet from WL500P either, but from ZY500.http://www.pingjia-ic.com/uploadfiles/file/2017419...Is in Chinese but Google translate is your friend.I think this ic is similar and is used in cheap receiver modules.According to the datasheet it uses 3,5 mA at 433 Mhz and 5 volts.In the instructables you can see that I have removed the processor and the mosfet.The consumption is then 3.63 mA, so it cannot get much less and is about the same as a cheap module.The receiver comes with the remote control, so why would you buy a receiver module if it can also be used, I thought, and that is why I have adapted it to use with an Arduino.The processor on the board has no code imprint so unknown.I suspect that it is a simple PIC with a decoding program, which is now taken over by the Arduino.Jan.

Make it more square and the time is easier to read.https://www.instructables.com/Word-Clock-With-Rainbow-Effect-and-Background-Ligh/

Hello WinnerW,"void loop" begint met een aantal regel waarmee je de code van je afstandsbediening kunt uitlezen in de seriële monitor.Deze moet je even uit commentariëren, zie “change this line to read the code”, run het programma en je weet de codes. Vervolgens vul je ze in bij “define button”."void loop" starts with a number of lines with which you can read the code of your remote control in the serial monitor.You have to comment this out, see "change this line to read the code", run the program and you know the codes. Then enter them in the "define button".void loop() {// /* change this line to read the code//---------------------------------------------------------------// *** use this piece of code to find out the IR codes ***//--------------…

Hello WinnerW,"void loop" begint met een aantal regel waarmee je de code van je afstandsbediening kunt uitlezen in de seriële monitor.Deze moet je even uit commentariëren, zie “change this line to read the code”, run het programma en je weet de codes. Vervolgens vul je ze in bij “define button”."void loop" starts with a number of lines with which you can read the code of your remote control in the serial monitor.You have to comment this out, see "change this line to read the code", run the program and you know the codes. Then enter them in the "define button".void loop() {// /* change this line to read the code//---------------------------------------------------------------// *** use this piece of code to find out the IR codes ***//--------------------------------------------------------------- zeroleds(); zetmVijf(); zetuTwaalf(); Led_Aan[53] = 1, Led_Aan[90] = 1, Led_Aan[122] = 1 ; e = 13 ; NeoPixelsOnOff(); // call NeoPixels On Off Serial.println(" read IR codes "); while(1) { if (irrecv.decode(&results)) { k++; Serial.print(k); Serial.print(" "); Serial.println(results.value, HEX); Serial.println(" "); irrecv.resume(); delay(500); } }//---------------------------------------------------------------// *** end of code to find out the IR codes ***//--------------------------------------------------------------- // */ change this line to read the codeAM of PM.Je kunt bij het bepalen van 12 uur een bool toevoegen om AM of PM te onthouden en vervolgens een led aanzetten.Code zou iets kunnen worden als onderstaand, zelf niet getest en kan mogelijk nog slimmer.Ik heb geen rekening gehouden met AM en PM en dus ook geen letter AM of PM ter beschikking. Je moet er zelf dus maar iets van maken b.v. door % tekens te gebruiken, de linker dan wel rechter kolom aan te zetten, of extra leds toe te voegen.AM or PM.When determining 12 hours, you can add a bool to remember AM or PM and then turn on an LED.Code could become something like the one below, not tested itself and could possibly be smarter.I have not taken AM and PM into account and therefore no letter AM or PM available. So you have to make something of it yourself, e.g. by using % characters, turning on the left or right column, or adding extra LEDs.bool AMPM = true; // AM = true and PM = false AMPM = true; // AM uren = dt.hour ; if (uren >= 12) { uren -= 12; AMPM = false; // PM }add to "void ledaanzeten ()" if (AMPM == true) { Led_Aan[xx] = 1, Led_Aan[xx] = 1 ; // AM on Led_Aan[yy] = 0, Led_Aan[yy] = 0 ; // PM off}else { Led_Aan[xx] = 0, Led_Aan[xx] = 0 ; // AM off Led_Aan[yy] = 1, Led_Aan[yy] = 1 ; // PM on}Success, Jan

Observe the necessary safety requirements because Silicon Carbide may be carcinogenic.

Thanks, Jan

Front plate looks very good and it is nice to hear that you liked the instructable.I now have a DFPlayer working that gives a sound every fifteen minutes and full hour.It can also be used as an MP3 player. All this can be set with the remote control.I am interested in the code that you wrote, so if you would like to send me the ino file, gladly.With kind regards, Jan

A 10-stroke potentiometer rotates 10 times while it is now 1 time. The setting is therefore much more accurate. You should experiment with setting a resistor to the left and right of the potentiometer so that you can make a very good setting range.Mvg Jan

Some remarks,Leave the laptop power supply in its original housing and only make the low voltage side in the new box. Resolves problems with 220V and safety because the complete power supply is safe.For the potentiometers, use 10 strokes types for a better setting.An old computer power supply has a fan and usually has a separate print with temperature control.I would measure the voltage directly on the output terminals.Mvg Jan.

AndréIk weet niet welke DCF module je hebt maar de weerstand (10 Kohm ) waarde lijk me niet direct het probleem.Zelf heb ik een RPC module DCF77.Dat is een oude ontvanger voor een computer op de seriëlepoort welke hoogohmig is.De oplossing moet je meer zoeken in de ontvangst, wat zieje in de seriële monitor?Probeer eens dichter bij een raam voor beter ontvangsten/of de module zelf verder van de klok af zetten door er één meter draadtussen te zetten.Er zijn ook modules die een geïnverteerd signaal leveren,maar dat zou in de DCF77 libraryopgelost zijn. Hier heb ik geen ervaring mee.Verder zou je eens op de site van Thijs http://thijs.elenbaas.net/2012/04/arduino-dcf77-radio-clock-receiver-library/moeten kijken, hier staat het goed beschreven wat je moet zien in de seriëlemonitor.Je kunt de …

AndréIk weet niet welke DCF module je hebt maar de weerstand (10 Kohm ) waarde lijk me niet direct het probleem.Zelf heb ik een RPC module DCF77.Dat is een oude ontvanger voor een computer op de seriëlepoort welke hoogohmig is.De oplossing moet je meer zoeken in de ontvangst, wat zieje in de seriële monitor?Probeer eens dichter bij een raam voor beter ontvangsten/of de module zelf verder van de klok af zetten door er één meter draadtussen te zetten.Er zijn ook modules die een geïnverteerd signaal leveren,maar dat zou in de DCF77 libraryopgelost zijn. Hier heb ik geen ervaring mee.Verder zou je eens op de site van Thijs http://thijs.elenbaas.net/2012/04/arduino-dcf77-radio-clock-receiver-library/moeten kijken, hier staat het goed beschreven wat je moet zien in de seriëlemonitor.Je kunt de test software downloaden naar je Arduino,hiervoor hoef je niets los te halen.Verder een link met een inverter probleem oplossing https://ednieuw.home.xs4all.nl/Woordklok/DCF77/DCF77_Arduino.html en een met eensignaal aanpassing http://www.hjberndt.de/soft/rtctftdcf.htmlMaar de ontvangst conditie lijkt me het grootste probleem.Geef eens aan wat je klok moet doen buiten alleen de tijdaangeven, mogelijk kan ik je idee overnemen, sta open voor suggesties voor mijnandere klok projecthttps://www.instructables.com/Word-Clock-With-Rainbow-Effect-and-Background-Ligh/Succes JanAndréI do not know which DCF module you have but the resistance(10 Kohm) value does not seem to me to be the problem.I myself have an RPC module DCF77.That is an old receiver for a computer on the serial portwhich is highly resistive.You have to look for the solution more in the reception whatdo you see in the serial monitor?Try closer to a window for better reception and / or tomove the module itself further away from the clock by putting one meter of wirebetween them.There are also modules that provide an inverted signal, butthat would have been resolved in the DCF77 library. I have no experience withthis.Furthermore you should take a look at the site of Thijs http://thijs.elenbaas.net/2012/04/arduino-dcf77-radio-clock-receiver-library/, here it is well described what you should see in the serial monitor.You can download the test software to your Arduino, you donot have to disconnect anything.Furthermore, a link with an inverter problem solution https://ednieuw.home.xs4all.nl/Woordklok/DCF77/DCF77_Arduino.html and one with a signal adjustment http://www.hjberndt.de/soft/rtctftdcf.htmlBut the reception condition seems to me to be the biggestproblem.Specify what you need to do outside of the clock, justindicate the time, possibly I can take over your idea, be open to suggestionsfor my other clock projecthttps://www.instructables.com/Word-Clock-With-Rainbow-Effect-and-Background-Ligh/Good luck Jan

Hallo Bart,Je vraag werd als spam gezien en geblokkeerd. Dat is dereden waarom je geen reactie heb gekregen.Zie de reactie van Instructables Support Team.Your question was viewed and blocked as spam. That is whyyou did not receive a response.See the reaction of Instructables Support Team.Mvg JanHello,That is veryodd. What you are seeing in the api.instructables.com is an old stagingsite that we don't use anymore. I'm not sure why it's indexed on google(it shouldn't be). The commentthat you circled wasn't visible on the site because it looks like it wasfalsely caught in one of our spam filters. I've removed it from that filter soyou should now be able to see it on your instructable. I hope thatanswers your questions. Please let us know if we can be of furtherassistance. Best,Support Team@ …

Hallo Bart,Je vraag werd als spam gezien en geblokkeerd. Dat is dereden waarom je geen reactie heb gekregen.Zie de reactie van Instructables Support Team.Your question was viewed and blocked as spam. That is whyyou did not receive a response.See the reaction of Instructables Support Team.Mvg JanHello,That is veryodd. What you are seeing in the api.instructables.com is an old stagingsite that we don't use anymore. I'm not sure why it's indexed on google(it shouldn't be). The commentthat you circled wasn't visible on the site because it looks like it wasfalsely caught in one of our spam filters. I've removed it from that filter soyou should now be able to see it on your instructable. I hope thatanswers your questions. Please let us know if we can be of furtherassistance. Best,Support Team@ Instructables

AndréVersie 2.0 komt er spoedig aan. Deze is metgeoptimaliseerde code en IR afstandsbediening zodat je alles extern kuntinstellen.Version 2.0 is coming soon. This is with optimized code and IR remote control so that you can set everything externally.Mvg Jan

Version 2.0 is coming soon. This is with optimized code andremote control so that you can set everything externally, including the time.The battery will last around 10 years.Use a CR2032 battery instead of a rechargeable LIR2023 andremove the charging circuit for your own safety.Mvg Jan

The DS3231 module is very accurate and could have a deviation of a few seconds per month.When I have the IR remote control ready I will see if I can make an option that you can set the time a few seconds forward or backward.You can of course extract the entire DCF part from the code.If you still have problems getting the clock to work, let me know and maybe I can help you further.Mvg Jan

Hello WisonC,Do you have the clock working?I'm working on a simple IR remote control.This is almost finished. So buttons are not necessary.As long as you still have to adjust it in the code.I have a DCF module so the time is adjusted automatically.What do you want for what concerned the time actually set,correction with sec, minutes, summer / winter transition or total date and time.I have the same kind of question from someone else.Let me know and I will look at it if I have the time.Sincerely,Jan

Andre,Heb je de kleuren aan het werken?De lichtvariatie met de seconde knipper zie ik inderdaad ook en zeker bij lage helderheid.Bij rainbow effect valt het niet zo op omdat daar de kleur toch iedere seconde iets veranderd.Wordt veroorzaakt doordat de helderheids regeling constant iets verspringt.Opgelost door in de code + 3 en - 3 toe te voegen en xy < 25 waardoor er niet meer gereageerd wordt op een kleine variatie en iets minder snel.De regeling wordt trager maar dat is geen probleem.Je kunt het testen door in je code de regel BerLDRValue = 40; te zetten, zodat er altijd een vaste waarde 40 is.Lichtflitsen bij aansluiten op externe voeding heeft te maken met hoe je de voedings draden van de UNO en de Neopixels aan elkaar knoopt en de condensator vandaar de vraag.Mvg Jan.//---------…

Andre,Heb je de kleuren aan het werken?De lichtvariatie met de seconde knipper zie ik inderdaad ook en zeker bij lage helderheid.Bij rainbow effect valt het niet zo op omdat daar de kleur toch iedere seconde iets veranderd.Wordt veroorzaakt doordat de helderheids regeling constant iets verspringt.Opgelost door in de code + 3 en - 3 toe te voegen en xy < 25 waardoor er niet meer gereageerd wordt op een kleine variatie en iets minder snel.De regeling wordt trager maar dat is geen probleem.Je kunt het testen door in je code de regel BerLDRValue = 40; te zetten, zodat er altijd een vaste waarde 40 is.Lichtflitsen bij aansluiten op externe voeding heeft te maken met hoe je de voedings draden van de UNO en de Neopixels aan elkaar knoopt en de condensator vandaar de vraag.Mvg Jan.//--------------------------------------------// *** begin void BrightnessControl ***//--------------------------------------------void BrightnessControl() { LDRValue = analogRead(LDRpin); // read the value from the LDR // calculate the value for the light setting LDRValue = (( LDRValue / 7 ) + 25 ) ; if ( xy < 25 ) { xy = xy + 1; } else if ( LDRValue > BerLDRValue+3 ) { BerLDRValue = BerLDRValue + 1 ; xy = 0; } else if ( LDRValue < BerLDRValue-3 ) { BerLDRValue = BerLDRValue - 1 ; xy = 0; } else { // nothing to do xy = 0; }/* Serial.print(LDRValue); // print the value to the serial port Serial.print(" "); Serial.print("LRDValue"); Serial.print(" "); Serial.print(BerLDRValue); // print the value to the serial port Serial.print(" "); Serial.println("BerLDRValue");*/// BerLDRValue = 40;}//--------------------------------------------// *** einde void BrightnessControl ***//--------------------------------------------

Andre,Stuur me de code per mail dan kijk ik ernaar.Mvg, Jan

Nice clock and asked what you would add or do differently the next.If I would change something about it, it was adding a DS3231 module so that you set the time once and then always have the correct time and do not have to wait until 9:30 or 21:30.If you want to add more, take a look at my clock.You can program the brightness control, color settings etc in your clock.Mooie klok en op de vraag wat zou jij toevoegen of anders doen het volgende.Als ik er iets aan zou veranderen was het het toevoegen van een DS3231 module zodat je eenmalig de tijd insteld en daarna altijd de juiste tijd hebt en niet hoeft te wachten tot 9:30 of 21:30.Als je nog meer wilt toevoegen kijk dan eens naar mijn klok.De helderheids regeling, kleur instellingen enz kun je zo in je klok kunnen progammeren.https://www.in…

Nice clock and asked what you would add or do differently the next.If I would change something about it, it was adding a DS3231 module so that you set the time once and then always have the correct time and do not have to wait until 9:30 or 21:30.If you want to add more, take a look at my clock.You can program the brightness control, color settings etc in your clock.Mooie klok en op de vraag wat zou jij toevoegen of anders doen het volgende.Als ik er iets aan zou veranderen was het het toevoegen van een DS3231 module zodat je eenmalig de tijd insteld en daarna altijd de juiste tijd hebt en niet hoeft te wachten tot 9:30 of 21:30.Als je nog meer wilt toevoegen kijk dan eens naar mijn klok.De helderheids regeling, kleur instellingen enz kun je zo in je klok kunnen progammeren.https://www.instructables.com/Rainbow-Letter-Cl...https://www.instructables.com/Word-Clock-With-R...Mvg Jan

Andre,Wat bedoel je met de kleuren wit krijg. Wil je een vastekleur bv wit. Dit kun je doen door drie maal dezelfde factor in te vullen bv25,25,25Code zonder smiley staat nog op de site versie 1.4Ik zal de code aanpassen zodat er een keuze is smiley on/offen kleur rainbow/fixAls je even aangeeft wat je precies wilt dan kan ik dat meenemen.Mvg Jan

TipLook in the attic or flea market for old calculator.This often contains the number tubes that you use in your third clock.Mvg Jan

Andre,Dat ziet er prima uit, wordt beslist een mooie klok.Mvg Jan.

Foutmelding heeft te maken met de gebruikte librariesen/of combinatie van libraries.Ik stuur je een mail.Mvg Jan

AndéYes and no.All modules that are necessary for the operation of the clock receive their power from the USB power supply.I opted for a separate USB to TTL converter and it gets the power from the PC when you connect it.This is to use less, no matter how little, energy.As can be seen in the scheme, the plus of the adapter is not connected to the plus of the arduino.Ja en Nee.Alle module die voor de werking van de clock nodig zijn krijgen hun voeding van de USB power supply.Ik heb gekozen voor een losse USB naar TTL converter en die krijgt de voeding van de PC op het moment dat je hem aankoppeld. Dit om minder, hoe weinig dan ook, energie te verbruiken. Zoals in het schema te zien is is de plus van de adapter niet verbonden met de plus van de arduino. Mvg Jan.

Thank you for not responding, or have you solved it yourself.I have set up a Windows 10 system with the Arduino IDE 1.8.8There are more versions of the library DS3231 and RTClib.If you choose the wrong one you get this kind of error.I will add the links to the library I am using.Good luck Jan.

Thank you for not responding, or have you solved it yourself.I have set up a Windows 10 system with the Arduino IDE 1.8.8There are more versions of the library DS3231 and RTClib.If you choose the wrong one you get this kind of error.I will add the links to the library I am using.Good luck Jan.

It will help if you cool the top more. Wrap some aluminum foil around it.Mvg Jan

If I see it correctly you use windows 10 and Arduino IDE 1.8.5.I'm still on an older version, windows 7 and IDE 1.6, but that should not really be a problem.Send me the ino file and I'll just in coming days to set up a Windows 10 system, with IDE 1.8Mvg Jan

André,In principle, however. Set a consumption of 250 mA at a low light setting of the neopixels,and 2 Li-ion of 3.7 V 3000 mAh in series with a step-down converter to 5 volts,then the time is 2*3000 * 0.85 / 250 = 20 hours.If the clock is not on continuously but with a sensor only if someone is around, it is theoretically possible,especially if you put multiple cells in parallel.When the smiley is on the current consumption 950 mA.Practice is always more stubborn than theory, so you can try it.In principe wel. Reken even mee. Stel een verbruik van 250 mA bij een lage licht instelling van de neopixels,en 2 Li-ion van 3.7 V 3000 mAh in serie met een stepdown converter naar 5 volt, dan is de tijd 6000*0,85/250 = 20 uur.Als de klok niet continu aan is maar met een sensor alleen als iemand in…

André,In principle, however. Set a consumption of 250 mA at a low light setting of the neopixels,and 2 Li-ion of 3.7 V 3000 mAh in series with a step-down converter to 5 volts,then the time is 2*3000 * 0.85 / 250 = 20 hours.If the clock is not on continuously but with a sensor only if someone is around, it is theoretically possible,especially if you put multiple cells in parallel.When the smiley is on the current consumption 950 mA.Practice is always more stubborn than theory, so you can try it.In principe wel. Reken even mee. Stel een verbruik van 250 mA bij een lage licht instelling van de neopixels,en 2 Li-ion van 3.7 V 3000 mAh in serie met een stepdown converter naar 5 volt, dan is de tijd 6000*0,85/250 = 20 uur.Als de klok niet continu aan is maar met een sensor alleen als iemand in de buurt is is het theoreties mogelijk, zeker als je nog meerdere cellen parrallel zet.Als de smiley aan is is de stroom opname 950 mA. Praktijk is altijd weerbarstiger dan theory, dus je kunt het proberen.Jan

With Linked togheter is meant as can be found on many sites, so nothing special.The neopixels have a power supply connection and a data in and date out.The power supply is parallel because each neopixel requires 5 volts and the data out is connected to the data in of the next and are basically in series.See link to Adafruit Basic Connections https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uber...The neopixels in an LED strip are in fact the same and could also be used, but I use loose neopixels because you are not bound by a fixed distance.Soldering it together is not so difficult.The power connection points on the neopixel are connected together.If you have a row of neopixels you can solder a piece of wire between the left and right and then the intermediate.This does not all have to be se…

With Linked togheter is meant as can be found on many sites, so nothing special.The neopixels have a power supply connection and a data in and date out.The power supply is parallel because each neopixel requires 5 volts and the data out is connected to the data in of the next and are basically in series.See link to Adafruit Basic Connections https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uber...The neopixels in an LED strip are in fact the same and could also be used, but I use loose neopixels because you are not bound by a fixed distance.Soldering it together is not so difficult.The power connection points on the neopixel are connected together.If you have a row of neopixels you can solder a piece of wire between the left and right and then the intermediate.This does not all have to be separate pieces of wire.The data out - data in must of course have separate pieces.With best regards, JanMet Linked togheter wordt bedoeld zoals op veel sites te vinden is, dus niets speciaals.De neopixels hebben een voedingsspanning aansluiting en een data in en date out.De voeding staat parallel omdat iedere neopixel 5 volt nodig heeft en de data out wordt verbonden met de data in van de volgende en staan in principe in serie.Zie link naar Adafruit Basic Connections https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uber... De neopixels in een led strip zijn in principe dezelfde en zou je ook kunnen gebruiken, maar ik heb losse neopixels gebruik omdat je dan niet gebonden bent aan een vaste afstand.Het aan elkaar solderen valt op zich best mee.De voedingsaansluiting punten op de neopixel zijn doorverbonden.Als je een rij neopixels heb kun je tussen de linker en rechter een stuk draad solderen en daarna de tussen liggende.Dit hoeven dus niet allemaal aparte stukjes draad te zijn.De data out - data in moet uiteraard wel met aparte stukjes.

The letters are cut out of folie by a printer, possibly I have it some badly translated, but what I meant is the letters are cut from a sheet by a printer,with a special printer called a printer cutter. See https://youtu.be/Lx73Gf-ymDQ Because I do not own a vinyl printer cutter, I had the foil made by a glass companythat also makes advertising lettering.That had enough on a Word document with the text and made the glass plate also.I had to apply the film on the glass plate myself.Alternatively you could also print with your own printer on paper.With best regards, JanThe letters are cut out of folie by a printer, heb ik mogelijk wat slecht vertaald, maar wat ik bedoeldeis De letters worden door een printer uit een folie gesneden, en wel met een speciale printer een zogenaamde printer cut…

The letters are cut out of folie by a printer, possibly I have it some badly translated, but what I meant is the letters are cut from a sheet by a printer,with a special printer called a printer cutter. See https://youtu.be/Lx73Gf-ymDQ Because I do not own a vinyl printer cutter, I had the foil made by a glass companythat also makes advertising lettering.That had enough on a Word document with the text and made the glass plate also.I had to apply the film on the glass plate myself.Alternatively you could also print with your own printer on paper.With best regards, JanThe letters are cut out of folie by a printer, heb ik mogelijk wat slecht vertaald, maar wat ik bedoeldeis De letters worden door een printer uit een folie gesneden, en wel met een speciale printer een zogenaamde printer cutter. Zie https://youtu.be/Lx73Gf-ymDQ Omdat ik zelf geen vinyl printer cutter heb, heb ik de folie laten maken door een glasbedrijfdat ook in reclame belettering doet.Dat had genoeg van een Word-document met de tekst en maakte gelijk de glasplaat.Het aanbrengen van de folie op de glasplaat moest ik dan wel zelf doen.Als alternatief zou je ook kunnen printen met je eigen printer op papier.

Hello SantiagoR68,I have added a list of the codes.From the illustrated RF transmitter I have two who both give other codes, in the list the number 1 and 2.Hopefully one of the two is equal to yours, success.The 3rd series is from a transmitter with 20 keys.Basically you can use any RF transmitter, but you'll be able to read the codes in some way because there are so many.Best regards,Jan

MarcThat is Ok, I also want to think along with you, what demands you put on the chandelier.Jan

A shame these kind of projects require expensive laser cutters or 3D printers?Not absolutely necessary.Take a suitable old PC power supply. Remove the circuit board etc and you have the most beautiful housing for nothing.With the built-in fan the distance is about 10 cm. If that is not enough, you can still replace the fan.

Marc,If I understand correctly you want to change the code in the processor.As I had indicated, the processor had no type of imprint.It is therefore almost impossible to program it or expand it with a memory chip.You could replace it with a known type (eg PIC 10F204) that meets your requirements and programs it according to your own wishes.The easiest way is to have an arduino mini pro. This has many possibilities and is relatively easy to program and there is already a lot of software for this. The arduino receives the input from the WL500P and controls the mosfet.If I can help let me know.Jan.

I'm still testing it, but I expect it to.My clock is still open at the back at the moment.

Hello,Nice poject.Possibly a tip.I Added RCWL-0516 Radar Microwave Motion Sensor.After 10 minutes of no movement, the leds go outhttps://www.instructables.com/Rainbow-Letter-Clock-With-a-Full-Rainbow-Effect/Jan.

Hello Robert,Well done, looks like my clock but something more professional look.https://www.instructables.com/Rainbow-Letter-Clock-With-a-Full-Rainbow-Effect/ It is a pity That the LEDs are so fustrating.I personally think it works well and you are not bound by fixed distances.You could have saved yourself a lot of work by taking a piece of wire at the junction, soldering on the left and right led and then the intermediate.Both minus connections and also the two plus connections on the LED are interconnected internally, so the same.If you add the full rainbow effect, the clock will get an even more vivid look and you'll get an even better effect of the clock.Jan.

Hey dancopy,I have put the code in a more readable text and ino file.Still working to make them completely in Englisch.Jan

Hey Tinker-Bel,I have put the code in a more readable text and ino file.Jan

Must succeed anyway.

Yes, there are still seven points open.

S

It has traditionally been linked together, but I will make it a scheme

Nice processor, possible for a next project.

Ik maakte soortgelijke met een vol regenboog effect.I made a similar clock with a full Rainbow effect.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPZ8sQ2YRM0