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Use tinner solder. If there too much, desolder. But be careful with the amount of heat. Don't exceed 360 degree tip temperature.
HiI´am sorry to say , but you have way too mutch solder on you transistors or IC, it should never end up on the upper side. this will remove the flexibillity in the legs of the component.
HiFine little build, i have build oneWhat does the photo res. do?
You should look at the circuit diagram.i think the blue one, are connected from ESP plus to the micro sw.
HiI had everything running, but waited for a lithium battery. Now i installed the Android app again, then i set up in config. Then i come back on the front screen, it starts with showing zero in all.i press Update - then the first 3 are filled with HUGE numbers, the first are out of screen (ending on 020000), but the next is 150101999, also the third is 150101999. Hours and battery seems to work.What am I doing wrong??PS: Why dosn't it update automatically when i open the app?Hope you have time to help
Hi againI found the errorURL things.ubidots.com/api/v1.6/datasources/594163297655421a04898e64/variables/?token=YEbtl5DDIHZgDCLDcRHQs51eZ7Or5B594163297655421a04898e64 this is the Device ID and is found by pressing the Device (Pill Bottle) showed in the left windowYEbtl5DDIHZgDCLDcRHQs51eZ7Or5B this is the tokenNEW ERRORSelect list item: Attempt to get item number 3 of a list of length 2:........i forgot to add the rolling SUM, now everything worksBUT When i measure the power consumption it fall to 0.07mA, but after 5 min it draw 8mA , Does anyone knows why, i HAVEN'T Connected RST to GPIO16 and IF i had it should boot and draw 70-140mA.????
HThanks for a need project.I have a working ubidots, but the App won't Connect.I have only added TOKEN, i Can't see what Device ID is and where to put it.Can you help??
Thanks for sharingI think it should update NTP twice a day, to compensate for drift ins the ESP
I Think the titel Are a bit misleading, as you USE a microprocessor, but thanks for sharing.
HiI have added a shortmovie effect to the code, and updated it on "the other" instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/TimeFrame-a-Time-P... I dosen't hope you find it rude to link to this.
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My contributionI used an old kitchen table that i glued together after shapen it first to removed oil etc), then i shaped it down to 50x50.For controls i glued the POT to a metalplate and made some knobs in wood, as i couldn't find any that small, and wanted it on the backside.I only used one LED as it is 5V, the datasheet says it can manage 100 mA for 1mS. With the setting of MAX 16 in brightness, the pulse are 1,5mS but the current draw are only 70 mA peak.... it haven't failed yet. I have added info light, it is a acryl with a RGB 5050 led, 100 Ohm resistor for Blue, 150 for Red and Green, it pulses and changes colour after mode.I used 0,65 wire for magnet app 45 MetersDone:- Added Shortmovie effect.- Changed debug to use a timer, so it dosn't delay the code- Changed from 3 12V to on...
My contributionI used an old kitchen table that i glued together after shapen it first to removed oil etc), then i shaped it down to 50x50.For controls i glued the POT to a metalplate and made some knobs in wood, as i couldn't find any that small, and wanted it on the backside.I only used one LED as it is 5V, the datasheet says it can manage 100 mA for 1mS. With the setting of MAX 16 in brightness, the pulse are 1,5mS but the current draw are only 70 mA peak.... it haven't failed yet. I have added info light, it is a acryl with a RGB 5050 led, 100 Ohm resistor for Blue, 150 for Red and Green, it pulses and changes colour after mode.I used 0,65 wire for magnet app 45 MetersDone:- Added Shortmovie effect.- Changed debug to use a timer, so it dosn't delay the code- Changed from 3 12V to one 5V LED strip, haven't failed yet:-)- Added some more txt to timers param, as i had a hard time to understand it- Added Filename printout in debug- Added 100nf to A0 and A1, even though it is input, it's a good idea, also helps if POT are eg. 100K to keep a stable voltage.- set it to start in mode 5 (off), and therefore added mag_off() in mode 5- Added pulse infolight (idear from Paul Hutchison)- Changed pushbutton so it is more rappid and only toggle once when hold (idear from Paul Hutchison)Should have:I used external pull-up, such a waist. Instead i should have used the internal ones like this:- pinMode(pin, INPUT); // set pin to input- digitalWrite(pin, HIGH); // turn on pullup resistorsThe video are not super quality, but shows it the different modes1 - off - quick flashing Red light2 - Slow - Blue light3 - Double - Green light4 - Short movie - Red light5 - only LED - White light try it, it think the Short movie are super cool, though the LED flicker slightly, I think ti is due to counter overflow, but it also gives it a random movement.Quistions??????in mag_on(), it says Hierraus frequenz, What does Hierraus mean??
I just changed one line to make 2812B workFastLED.addLeds<NEOPIXEL, DATA_PIN>(leds, NUM_LEDS);But i also have problems with Ambibox WINDOWS8 mode, no FPS showing
theres a setting for offset, try it.
HiI also used another type (0.6mm), and i used these 2 pages for calculatinghttp://www.66pacific.com/calculators/coil_calc.asp...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gaugeI ende up winding 10 layers equal 44 Meters
what are the issue, you need to tell clearly what you have done, whats working etc.
hi i build this, it dosn´t work in WINDOWS 8 MODE it shows 0 FPS, the other modes work fine but are too slow on my laptop it works but it isn¨t powerfull enough to run it smoothly,Any hints?
ThanksI tried to figure out the code, but i lack the competence....I think it would be nice to add a mode where it makes bigger jumps to simulate old stump movies, would that be feasible?By the way, i used 5V led strip, can't see what you used, but it works perfect.
HiYou saved me a lot of time by making this instructable :-)One thing though, i can't seem to find the value of the pot (R1 and R2), is it 10 K ?
I know this is an old instruction, but ican see it is used as reference for recent MIDI posts, so thats why i post here.I didn't have the optocoupler used here, but i have the common used EL817, as you can see in the picture, i added a bc547, this works very well, risetime is about 5us. the schmatic are originally from http://www.midikits.net/.hope it is helpfull.I have just started to use Arduino with MIDI, and for now I can't seem to get it stabel, when i use a MIDI keyboard it sometimes miss keystroke og leave the diode on, anybody solved this?