KeithD2

I really like the solution to hanging on bare studs that rickr172 came up with, but I had the same question. It seems like the angled cleat portion could be swapped out with just horizontal 1x3s (or 2x4s if the hung items are heavy). I have plans to replace a plastic shed with a stick frame one that I build myself, and this idea will come in handy. Another option might be to put the horizontal boards in between the studs so that they don't protrude into the space at all.

Putting the horizontals between the studs shouldn't make positioning any less versatile since you could just make sure that the back board has at least a 1.5" gap in the middle and back portions to allow spanning the stud. This would be the same as what would currently be required with the addition of adding the gap to the beveled portion as well as the back portion.In any case, than you for posting. It's a great instructable.

Amazon has crucibles, and is where I have bought mine. I found that the graphite clay ones worked well for aluminum whereas the metal stuck to the ceramic one I bought. I leave the tabs on, this likely contributes to the slag, but the effort is either spent on removing the tabs or removing the slag. I started with a home built charcoal fired foundry, but later switched to propane for ease of use. Using hardwood charcoal left little to no ash, but preventing sparks and burning bits from leaving the forge became a hassle, as did continuing to feed charcoal in to maintain the heat. Timewise, I found that the propane wasn't much faster at heating up the crucible and charge than the charcoal. Charcoal is definitely cheaper, though.

This is great! I am envisioning this on a larger scale of say 20 inches on a side to make a block to sit on, or as an outdoor end table. Maybe cast the designs into the walls of the pieces? Thanks for posting!

Awesome! Thanks. I should have looked closer at your parts list :/

I really like this idea! And the steel balls in the workshop are especially cool. Can you advise as to the strength and size of the magnets and balls you used?

Cool idea and nice execution. One question though, as drawn it appears that the circuit diagram would form a short circuit when the water closed the "switch". Perhaps some more discussion on the circuit would clarify?Thanks for sharing!

Sand blasting is another way to go if you don't have access to a laser engraver. The design can be cut from vinyl sheet, and then a sand blaster used to etch the design into the acrylic. Sand paper can also be used, but it is more difficult to create crisp lines.

This is awesome! Thanks for posting it and the software. Not sure when, but I'd really like to make one of these for my home shop.

Is the wake word being processed on the rPi or through the cloud? I am wondering if it is necessary to have the rPi constantly connected to wifi or if it can operate as a stand alone device.

This is a great Instructable! Thanks for posting it. I was just considering how to make some one off allen head furniture bolts and this would be perfect for putting the hexagonal hole in the end (using a hexagonal electrode). A few questions I have:Have you considered filtering the water to reduce the number of times you have to change it out?You said there is a lot of up and down movement, how far would you say you are turning your crank each time/how far away from the work piece do you move the electrode? How long did it take to cut through those pieces you made?Also, I think you have a typo in step 5 where you say: "The last diode is what does all the work. It stores the electricity." I think you meant the last capacitor rather than the last diode.Thanks again!

In step 4 you show the side view of the house, and have 20 ft. listed as the width of the house. You then show along the roof lines 10 ft. If you are thinking that the roof lines are going to be 10 feet along the diagonal, you will have a flat roof. In the attached image, the green arrow points to your 20 ft dimension, the red arrows indicate the 10 ft dimensions, and the dashed orange line is also the 20 ft dimension (as I understand it). Unless the dimensions of the gable end roof lines (the red arrow dimensions) added together are larger than 20 ft, then you will have a flat roof. However, I now suspect that you might just be saying that the ridge is centered in the middle of that wall, and that the 10 ft dimensions are meant to indicate a horizontal distance and not the distance …

In step 4 you show the side view of the house, and have 20 ft. listed as the width of the house. You then show along the roof lines 10 ft. If you are thinking that the roof lines are going to be 10 feet along the diagonal, you will have a flat roof. In the attached image, the green arrow points to your 20 ft dimension, the red arrows indicate the 10 ft dimensions, and the dashed orange line is also the 20 ft dimension (as I understand it). Unless the dimensions of the gable end roof lines (the red arrow dimensions) added together are larger than 20 ft, then you will have a flat roof. However, I now suspect that you might just be saying that the ridge is centered in the middle of that wall, and that the 10 ft dimensions are meant to indicate a horizontal distance and not the distance along the roof line.

Thanks for that! I am attempting to get it into Inventor now to figure out the CAM for the 5 parts. The full drawing will definitely help.

Great sword! Do you happen to have the whole shape file (rather than the three 8x11)? This seems like an ideal sword for cnc cutting.Thanks, and great instructable

You may want to check your roof-line measurements. You have 20 feet as the width of the gable end and 10 feet for each of the gable roof lines... that would be a flat roof!

I am in the middle of building my tree house in a similar manner as yours. How is yours doing after 5 years? Did you leave any space between the floor joists that are lagged and the tree? I made some steel hangers to keep my joists 3 inches from the tree to allow room for the tree to grow. I am curious how much actual growth I can expect (the internet indicates about .1 inches of diameter per year for a Hickory)

I did take a look at that ship's ladder, and I think I will be borrowing very heavily from your design (if not copying it outright from the Instructable) for the ladder to my tree house. I am still considering the hogwire railing, though I need to find a supplier close by. I think it would look much better, as well as being more fun for my little one to be able to see through most of the railing. Here is a shot of where I currently am.

I am wondering if the smd LEDs could be cast into food grade clear silicone prior to embedding in the gummy LEDs (which might need to be larger), so that the end result would be an edible light up LED (so long as you didn't eat the silicone along with it!)

That is really great! Can you also say where you sourced the sink? Thanks for sharing.

are the dashed lines in the PDFs intended to be perpendicular to the lines they connect? For example, in Male Part B view, the dashed lines at the top are 2.5 cm from the left edge at the top, and assuming that tapered dovetail is centered, the dimension of 2 cm where the taper meets the outside wall indicates that the dashed lines should be perpendicular to the horizontal lines. They are not shown this way in the drawings, but I am wondering if that is the intention.Thanks, and the joint looks great.

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