KeithD2

You may want to check your roof-line measurements. You have 20 feet as the width of the gable end and 10 feet for each of the gable roof lines... that would be a flat roof!

I am in the middle of building my tree house in a similar manner as yours. How is yours doing after 5 years? Did you leave any space between the floor joists that are lagged and the tree? I made some steel hangers to keep my joists 3 inches from the tree to allow room for the tree to grow. I am curious how much actual growth I can expect (the internet indicates about .1 inches of diameter per year for a Hickory)

I did take a look at that ship's ladder, and I think I will be borrowing very heavily from your design (if not copying it outright from the Instructable) for the ladder to my tree house. I am still considering the hogwire railing, though I need to find a supplier close by. I think it would look much better, as well as being more fun for my little one to be able to see through most of the railing. Here is a shot of where I currently am.

I am wondering if the smd LEDs could be cast into food grade clear silicone prior to embedding in the gummy LEDs (which might need to be larger), so that the end result would be an edible light up LED (so long as you didn't eat the silicone along with it!)

That is really great! Can you also say where you sourced the sink? Thanks for sharing.

are the dashed lines in the PDFs intended to be perpendicular to the lines they connect? For example, in Male Part B view, the dashed lines at the top are 2.5 cm from the left edge at the top, and assuming that tapered dovetail is centered, the dimension of 2 cm where the taper meets the outside wall indicates that the dashed lines should be perpendicular to the horizontal lines. They are not shown this way in the drawings, but I am wondering if that is the intention.Thanks, and the joint looks great.

Awesome instructable! Thanks so much for sharing. One suggestion I have, though, is to replace the butterfly knot with an inline figure 8 (I have also heard it referred to as a running figure 8) since the direction of pull on the knot is known and unidirectional. Given the potential for a heavy load, it might be somewhat easier to untie afterwards.

Gotcha. I usually find that an inline figure 8 is pretty compact (mind you, it uses much less rope than a figure 8 on a bight), but you are right, either works. :)

true

Very cool. I was thinking that there could be another free-hanging gear at the bottom to keep the chain from kinking up (or just to keep the whole thing in an oval shape), and maybe that gear could be set up to show the minutes like a regular clock hand or with numbers that rotated around? Might have to experiment with that once I get my workshop built and get a laser cutter :)One vote for you

apparently I have 2 accounts (this one and CODIY which appears to be synced with my phone). Anyway, here's some pics from various late stages...

can you advise as to where you bought your laser protection windows?

I like the idea of using these in a treehouse too, but I worry that the panels could be pushed out by active kids, or if someone fell against them. Is this unlikely? I was thinking perhaps cutting the panels so that there is a perimeter of metal mesh that can be locked into the dado with a few screws or a bead of gorilla glue

Finally, a concise and easily understood method of converting wired mice to bluetooth! Thank you for posting this. I look forward to implementing it inside of a logitech trackball that I have wanted to have as bluetooth for some time now.