KeithD2

You set your "Three" digital read to pin 13, which you previously defined as an output for the buzzer rather than an input

You set your "Three" digital read to pin 13, which you previously defined as an output for the buzzer rather than an input

This is a great idea!! Thanks for sharing it!

I really like the solution to hanging on bare studs that rickr172 came up with, but I had the same question. It seems like the angled cleat portion could be swapped out with just horizontal 1x3s (or 2x4s if the hung items are heavy). I have plans to replace a plastic shed with a stick frame one that I build myself, and this idea will come in handy. Another option might be to put the horizontal boards in between the studs so that they don't protrude into the space at all.

Putting the horizontals between the studs shouldn't make positioning any less versatile since you could just make sure that the back board has at least a 1.5" gap in the middle and back portions to allow spanning the stud. This would be the same as what would currently be required with the addition of adding the gap to the beveled portion as well as the back portion.In any case, than you for posting. It's a great instructable.

Amazon has crucibles, and is where I have bought mine. I found that the graphite clay ones worked well for aluminum whereas the metal stuck to the ceramic one I bought. I leave the tabs on, this likely contributes to the slag, but the effort is either spent on removing the tabs or removing the slag. I started with a home built charcoal fired foundry, but later switched to propane for ease of use. Using hardwood charcoal left little to no ash, but preventing sparks and burning bits from leaving the forge became a hassle, as did continuing to feed charcoal in to maintain the heat. Timewise, I found that the propane wasn't much faster at heating up the crucible and charge than the charcoal. Charcoal is definitely cheaper, though.

This is great! I am envisioning this on a larger scale of say 20 inches on a side to make a block to sit on, or as an outdoor end table. Maybe cast the designs into the walls of the pieces? Thanks for posting!

I really like this idea! And the steel balls in the workshop are especially cool. Can you advise as to the strength and size of the magnets and balls you used?

Awesome! Thanks. I should have looked closer at your parts list :/

Cool idea and nice execution. One question though, as drawn it appears that the circuit diagram would form a short circuit when the water closed the "switch". Perhaps some more discussion on the circuit would clarify?Thanks for sharing!

Sand blasting is another way to go if you don't have access to a laser engraver. The design can be cut from vinyl sheet, and then a sand blaster used to etch the design into the acrylic. Sand paper can also be used, but it is more difficult to create crisp lines.

This is awesome! Thanks for posting it and the software. Not sure when, but I'd really like to make one of these for my home shop.

Is the wake word being processed on the rPi or through the cloud? I am wondering if it is necessary to have the rPi constantly connected to wifi or if it can operate as a stand alone device.

This is a great Instructable! Thanks for posting it. I was just considering how to make some one off allen head furniture bolts and this would be perfect for putting the hexagonal hole in the end (using a hexagonal electrode). A few questions I have:Have you considered filtering the water to reduce the number of times you have to change it out?You said there is a lot of up and down movement, how far would you say you are turning your crank each time/how far away from the work piece do you move the electrode? How long did it take to cut through those pieces you made?Also, I think you have a typo in step 5 where you say: "The last diode is what does all the work. It stores the electricity." I think you meant the last capacitor rather than the last diode.Thanks again!