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Hi, first I have to agree on the fussy fit of finger joints, after 30 years of woodwork I still think they are a bit of a pain. My main comment is regarding the back and cross grain movement. It would be better, and lighter(thin panel), if the back panel was set into a groove so it floated inside the frame. The frame is plenty strong to stay stable without the attached back. I have found that for hardwood (which usually moves more than softwood) somewhere around 5 inches in width is about the safe limit for fixing a boards width in a cross grain situation. There are wood movement calculators online, however its hard to predict your humidity changes where the piece will live. Coastal California has a lot less seasonal humidity swing than say a New England climate.
Hmm, never seen this version of picture frame clamping, doesnt the inside corner triangle push the joint apart?
its always electron flow, “electric flow” is just a tradional way of describing circuit flow, and is not scientific.
Hi, really like the look, very unique for a cutting board. Some advice though, watch those fingers pushing small wood on the jointer, handled push sticks are a good idea. The cross grain gluing, end to face grain may not hold up the wet environment of a cutting board, and the differential movement forces may open the joints along the ash strings. I have had good luck over the years limiting cross grain confined joints to about 4 or 5 inches, but you never really know what the limits are!, wood is like that.