Kieren-J

I knew there was a program that could do it! i just couldn't think of what it was called for the life of me, Thanks i definitely look in to that for the next one i make! would be a real time saver!

Theoretically i could make two skulls but as soon as i realised that there were too many layers i stopped cutting out the rest and only focused on making the one. But yes if i cut out the rest of the layers i could make another one.Hope that answers your question

Thanks for the nice comment and i added the layers under step 1 hope that helps.

its a Geeetech prusa i3 Pro B

You would be right.

Enjoy :P

Don't you worry, once it gets dark outside ill take some pictures and upload them :P

I disagree any system that is attached to a grid supply, is grid tied the difference is i am not exporting my power back to the grid (the whole Point of this) the victron multi plus is used to tie grid power into solar power and any excess it exports (which i don't want to do) it also charges battery bank with grid power when it is available (again i don't want to do this) As for the ATS it synchronises the two supplies for seamless cross over, There is no down time,an exactly similar product would be the switchover unit that victron makes.

HiSince the batteries are wired in parallel they all get the same treatment of a load and all get the same charge, in my case the batteries have all had the same treatment and are the same age, so the likelihood is that they would all die around the same time (in theory), tho this is a long time off since I don't fully empty my bank. I only wait for it to get to 50% then the inverter will shut off.When one or more do fail the normal sign that gives it away to me is that the banks overall voltage drops and if I isolate all the batteries the failed ones olwont be holding a charge, you'd also notice the failed one to have higher temperature that's my give away.

HiI totally agree UPS are much more readily available at the fraction of the cost, but then you are constrained by what you can power wattage wise off them. where as an inverter would allow much design control to your personal needs, not to mention like UPS large companies do replace them on a regular basis so second hand or even refurbished ones are just as easily available and cheapThanks,Kieren

Thanks, I agree it's not technically a grid tied system because it doesn't export, the concept is mainly to show that you can still have grid and solar power, in away that's more "do able" than having a large company come out and install a system since its not overly cost effective for most people. The solution I'm showing you gives people an option to have solar without spinning there meter backwards.In regards to circuits, I do have a couple of dedicated ones for things like the water pumps on the pond since there on 24/7, the scheduling I've set up is to control the inverter is because I mainly use most power in the evening since I work 7-8 most days so everything is normal off. By charging the batteries it's enough to tie me over. Thanks,Kieren

Hi, Id agree with PhilTilson, probably not best to use blocking diodes. This is why a was using the automatic transfer switch because like a UPS it doesn't allow voltage from the other sources to go back down another so wont allow export. In regards to 20amps , seems a bit high, then again in uk with have a higher voltage so would expect a lower current. The ATS i have says its max switching capacity is 16A at 230v (about 3500w) so is suitable for most things, things like fridges and freezers have high start up currents from when compressors start so that might cause issues with your inverter shutting down or false switch-overs on the ATS.Cut a long storey short, you could move a group of low power circuits over to this system permanently to make the most of your energy but you'd have t...

Hi, Id agree with PhilTilson, probably not best to use blocking diodes. This is why a was using the automatic transfer switch because like a UPS it doesn't allow voltage from the other sources to go back down another so wont allow export. In regards to 20amps , seems a bit high, then again in uk with have a higher voltage so would expect a lower current. The ATS i have says its max switching capacity is 16A at 230v (about 3500w) so is suitable for most things, things like fridges and freezers have high start up currents from when compressors start so that might cause issues with your inverter shutting down or false switch-overs on the ATS.Cut a long storey short, you could move a group of low power circuits over to this system permanently to make the most of your energy but you'd have to take into consideration what your plugging in and whether your set up can handle it, In my case i think my inverter would struggle with a freezer but i could power say all the lights in my house and a few low powered sockets (computer, water pumps ect.)Hope this helps,Thanks,kieren

I'm not sure on honeycombed panels, in theory it should be fine because your only sealing the damages. I used a crystal clear, uv resistant resin that I got from my local flooring company then used a sponge roller to apply it.

Hi,Firstly thanks,In answer to your question regarding a single main rcd, yes it would trip the entire house, but an rcd on detects an imbalance in currents, so for every other kind of fault your normal breaker should trip before . It's quite common for entire houses in the UK to have one maybe two main rcds depending on the type of consumer unit (split load or single).In my case Becuse this is only small scale system the rcd would knock of a lighting circuit and a couple of sockets. However if I were to upscale I'd consider rcbos (rcd and circuit breaker in one)

Hi,Not that i had noticed, tbh im using a different kind of system now. i will be doing an update post soon to show my changes :P

Yes the relay should be closed, as far as the ups it does require a little tinkering since it beeps when there is no power and beeps when there is no battery, the simple fix is to remove the buzzer for that, i did find that the relay switch on the 12v supply to the ups causes the ups to turn off, to fix that i put a blocking diode to across the relay, the ups then thinks its got a battery and it still cant charge the batteries, while the blocking diode fixs the problem the relay is still required due to the current it pulls :p hope this helps