LenkaDesign

haha, you are right

The code is there and those files is everything you need. You will need to install Arduino IDE and then it will compile. Please refer to many guides on the internet on how to setup the Arduino IDE and compile the code. YouTube also has many great tutorials on this topic.

Looking good!I don't remember but I assmume in the range of 1000mah per cell. Old cells from old laptop battery.

Glad it all worked out!

Hi. The current limiting resistor is there to help save small batteries. The two 18650s have more capacity than what is assumed to be the default for the TP4056 so you don't need to limit the current. Can you post a pic of your project?

Hi. Great to see you even used the cover CAD drawing!It's difficult to judge where the issue might be and I really hope you will be able to identify it. If I was to look for an issue I'd try to isolate the issue - disconnect all the buttons except the one that does not work. For the one that does not work I'd exchange the button to remove the chance of a broken button. I did notice these buttons are not perfect and some of them are very very noisy!I'd also check the connections. And yes, 1k for one of them was intentional (I think the one that I decided to connect not directly to 5v).I'd also check if the script that I placed there for calibration indeed works - I am not ure if I uploaded the correct version.Good luck!

hi. Are you able to post a picture of both sides of the screen?

Hi. I thought you had a 5110 screen. The code of this clock would need extensive modifications to be able to work with your screen. By no means it would be a beginner task, especially that the code takes up all the space so you'd run into other problems too. I'd recommend to buy a cheap 5110 screen from Aliexpress. It only costs $1.80 including shipping. Totally not worth it to spend time modifying the code.Here are the links: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32614385091.htmlhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32352832146.htmlIt might be possible to connect your 5110 screen without PCB however, I'd need to see the back side.

Regarding your 5110 screen - as I said earlier it will cost less time and effort to buy the screens with PCBs. In case we're talking about 100 pieces that you already purchased for the class of students it is worth ordering 100 PCBs to stick them to. Here's the solution:https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=149181.0Wire gauges don't really matter. Don't buy the wires, just take any unwanted LAN network cable and strip it. You will get a nice set of colored wires. Soldering them takes some skill - need to be quick before the wire skin melts but I got used to them and only use wires from LAN cables now.Wires from the motor are attached to the connecting board directly to the transistor.

Thank you for your kind words!

Hi,Thanks. Depending on where you live, high chances are that these things are available in your hardware store. I get my material from there.

Hi,Your clock looks great. Would be cool to see the whole object :-)As to the garbage - this might be due to the program being so large that some overflow happens.What is the purpose of the additional text and icon that you introduced?

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks Mark!

Very nice! Did you make the case yourself too?

Thank you!

Great build! Good luck with the contest!

Thank you!We will be posting guide on making another object for our kitchen later.

Thank you!

Thank you!I did reference the work of Reyboz in the write-up which allows to play such good quality:http://blog.reyboz.it/2013/04/02/arduino-best-of-super-mario-bros-2-voci-arduino/After finishing the build I found two more interesting libraries:https://github.com/nathanRamaNoodles/MusicWithoutDelay-LIbraryhttps://sensorium.github.io/Mozzi/If I started from scratch again I would still use the work of Reyboz (first link) as it ideally suites the game.

Thank you!

thank you for sharing. great build!

thank you!

Thank you for your feedback. This model is not rare in the country where it was made. I did have an empty shell but unfortunately I did have to buy another one around 5 USD that I gutted - it was shown on TV.

Thanks. Parts are low cost:+ lego baseplate - $3+ 4 arcade buttons - $8+ 2 start/stop buttons - $0.86+ rocker switch - $0.41+ Arduino Nano clone - $1.94+ 1602 LCD + I2C module - $1.92+ batteries are free+ double battery holder - $0.47+ 2 speakers - $2.52 (or free from old tv)+ TP4056 controller - $0.28+ 5v booster - $0.40+ Micro USB breakout - $0.94 for 10pcs (it's cheaper to buy like this)+ 830 point breadboard - $1.42+ top face plate should cost no more than $3 in local CNC shopTotal: $25.18 including shipping to any part of the world (I took today's prices from Aliexpress)

Thank you!

Thanks. Cheap Wacom tablet is all it takes :-)

thank you!

Thank you for your kind comments!

Great rebuild! Well done!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Sorry to see you were not shortlisted. I voted for you!

Thank you!

Thank you and really happy that it worked for you too!

Forecasting algorithm is the following:Arduino Nano gets new data from BME280 sensor every 12 minutes.The measurement cycle is 3 hours. After 3 hours the range of pressure monitoring (max and min value during 3 hours) shifts relative to average values during the current range and current pressure value. Every hour the direction of pressure change with current pressure value are saved. kPa units are used for forecast calculation.Due to memory limitations of Nano the forecasting algorithm had to be simplified. But despite simplifications, it is able to forecast precipitation in next 12-24 hours even though the forecasting is now more pessimistic - the default value is "Cloudy Weather"."Sunny Weather" - current value of pressure is higher than norm by 7 points, pressure i…

Forecasting algorithm is the following:Arduino Nano gets new data from BME280 sensor every 12 minutes.The measurement cycle is 3 hours. After 3 hours the range of pressure monitoring (max and min value during 3 hours) shifts relative to average values during the current range and current pressure value. Every hour the direction of pressure change with current pressure value are saved. kPa units are used for forecast calculation.Due to memory limitations of Nano the forecasting algorithm had to be simplified. But despite simplifications, it is able to forecast precipitation in next 12-24 hours even though the forecasting is now more pessimistic - the default value is "Cloudy Weather"."Sunny Weather" - current value of pressure is higher than norm by 7 points, pressure is not falling and difference between min and max values during the last 3 hours is not more than 2 points.Possible precipitation "Rainy Weather" - current pressure is 15 points lower than norm and difference between min & max values is more than 2 points OR Pressure is falling and difference between current value and norm is 3 - 30 points.To improve the quality of forecasting it is recommended to change your "altitude" in the main code file. You can get your altitude for example here: https://www.daftlogic.com/sandbox-google-maps-find-altitude.htm

Thanks!

thank you!

Wow! Thank you for sharing! It looks great!Thank you for such valuable feedback. You are right on all points. Here are some responses:+ Clock date and time were set using the standard example script from the 1307 library (added a note on this into GitHub Readme). As you might have noticed, the current code uses up all memory so we were not able to add the initial date/time setting. In the future we will create a small "initialise" program that will erase alarm clock memory (to prevent garbage data like you got when you set alarm first time) and set the right time.+ Thanks for pointing out on the right lib. We re-uploaded the correct lib and fixed the links on GitHub.+ Yes, BME280 is probably the best you can get at the moment.+ Your LDR is a more expensive type. We used the most…

Wow! Thank you for sharing! It looks great!Thank you for such valuable feedback. You are right on all points. Here are some responses:+ Clock date and time were set using the standard example script from the 1307 library (added a note on this into GitHub Readme). As you might have noticed, the current code uses up all memory so we were not able to add the initial date/time setting. In the future we will create a small "initialise" program that will erase alarm clock memory (to prevent garbage data like you got when you set alarm first time) and set the right time.+ Thanks for pointing out on the right lib. We re-uploaded the correct lib and fixed the links on GitHub.+ Yes, BME280 is probably the best you can get at the moment.+ Your LDR is a more expensive type. We used the most basic ones from Aliexpress.

Yes. The clock runs while charging. USB power can be applied permanently.

Thanks. The forecast is based on well known calculation process, just like people used to do using barometers.

I have not measured it but it is of course days.

The circular PCB is a decoration. Electronics inside are very simple even for a novice. thanks for the warm comment!