LongJ

I built one of these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253222 and used the exact same DPDT switch setup so I could still use the stick for my PC emulator setup (Launchbox) While the Raspi is great for 8 and 16 bit emulators it's starts to fall down with the N64 or PS1/PS2 and a couple of other emulators so I run those emulators on a PC

I'm with you, these 5110 displays are complete junk .... out of 3 of them from 2 different sources I only got one to show a display and it was so dodgy that I eventually broke it pressing on it all the time ..... All of them on Amazon have a pathetic 2 of 5 star ratings and nothing but complaints ... This project definitely needs to be reworked for a better display than these hunks of junk ....

You can test it by using the serial terminal in the Arduino IDE. It should how a bunch of information and also you can test the indoor/outdoor buttons and it should show which you pressed ... however the Celsius/Fahrenheit function doesn't seem to provide any feedback to the terminalIf you see ome feedback in the terminal then the module is working and the display is likely the problem

This code isn't very well documented .... for instance which servo is which? What does Vservo even mean?

Actually you can use the Bluetooth to upload new firmware, I do it all the time on an Uno. You just need to use a laptop or tablet with Bluetooth and the Arduino IDE will see it as a serial port just like the USB ......

Nothing worse for smooth rods and linear bearings than getting hairspray on them and it's going to get into everythingBest to use removable glass and spray well away from your printer, especially an expensive Lulzbot

Thanks I'll give that a try some time. I have a Pi 3 with a 5" touchscreen running octoprint but a lightweight interface like this can be handy for tweaking and setups after upgrades ..... And there is always another upgrade. it's mounted on a small worktable with locking wheelsI'm looking to make something that I can download from thingieverse, slice it and print making the printer standalone needing only a power outlet and a WiFi network This coming summer a buddy and I are going to load it in my modified jon boat run it off the boat's wifi network/AP and run the unit from my deep cycle storage cells and making a video of it printing "out in the wild" something I want for my boat or a 3D printed lure and then catch a fish with it. Just because I can ...... and I have...

Thanks I'll give that a try some time. I have a Pi 3 with a 5" touchscreen running octoprint but a lightweight interface like this can be handy for tweaking and setups after upgrades ..... And there is always another upgrade. it's mounted on a small worktable with locking wheelsI'm looking to make something that I can download from thingieverse, slice it and print making the printer standalone needing only a power outlet and a WiFi network This coming summer a buddy and I are going to load it in my modified jon boat run it off the boat's wifi network/AP and run the unit from my deep cycle storage cells and making a video of it printing "out in the wild" something I want for my boat or a 3D printed lure and then catch a fish with it. Just because I can ...... and I haven't seen anyone else do ithttp://netbook2chartplotter.blogspot.com/

Ok what do you call the text file for the desktop icon and where do you put itSeems like that might be kind of important

It's a $21 dollar o-scope that can measure and display volts, frequency, time period, etc.... Get real for cripes sakes ..... 20 years ago this would have cost several hundred bucks..... Sure there are some that are faster for under $100 but they are only 8 bit and thus have horrible vertical resolution at any frequency .... Below 200 khz this thing will eat their lunch since you are talking about a vertical resolution of 256 levels vs the 4096 levels this device gives you .... I have a 50 Mhz storage scope and a classic 20 Mhz Hitachi V-212 (dollar for dollar one of the best analog o-scopes ever made) but I'm getting one of these, printing a nice case with battery compartment and use it as a portable ..... It also looks pretty hackable to me and if you bork it you aren't out much and ...

It's a $21 dollar o-scope that can measure and display volts, frequency, time period, etc.... Get real for cripes sakes ..... 20 years ago this would have cost several hundred bucks..... Sure there are some that are faster for under $100 but they are only 8 bit and thus have horrible vertical resolution at any frequency .... Below 200 khz this thing will eat their lunch since you are talking about a vertical resolution of 256 levels vs the 4096 levels this device gives you .... I have a 50 Mhz storage scope and a classic 20 Mhz Hitachi V-212 (dollar for dollar one of the best analog o-scopes ever made) but I'm getting one of these, printing a nice case with battery compartment and use it as a portable ..... It also looks pretty hackable to me and if you bork it you aren't out much and still have a STM32F103C For instance like most digital based o-scopes you should be able to make it work as a 200 khz spectrum analyzer ..... You should also be able to send the data to a computer via the USB port or one of the USARTs hooked to a RS-232 to USB converter ...... the main limitation is the amount of program memory available

The reason they need 9V is because they have an switching voltage inverter so they can feed the input op amps a bipolar DC voltage so they can be DC coupled. You can't do that with a single supply. Since the are using classic 78/79Lxx linear regulators they need at least 7 volts and since they use a series diode as reverse polarity protection you need at least 7.7 v and in practical use 8 v ..... In other words only 6 NiMH rechargeables (7.2 v) or 2 Li-on batteries (7.4 v) in series isn't going to cut it. It's either one more battery or disposable alkalines Dig out the schematic and then use the scope to explore the waveforms around that switching voltage inverter circuit. Since everything on the board is already grounded to the same ground as the input you only need to use red lead o...

The reason they need 9V is because they have an switching voltage inverter so they can feed the input op amps a bipolar DC voltage so they can be DC coupled. You can't do that with a single supply. Since the are using classic 78/79Lxx linear regulators they need at least 7 volts and since they use a series diode as reverse polarity protection you need at least 7.7 v and in practical use 8 v ..... In other words only 6 NiMH rechargeables (7.2 v) or 2 Li-on batteries (7.4 v) in series isn't going to cut it. It's either one more battery or disposable alkalines Dig out the schematic and then use the scope to explore the waveforms around that switching voltage inverter circuit. Since everything on the board is already grounded to the same ground as the input you only need to use red lead or just the probe tip if you are using real o-scope probe which I would recommend. It would likely get rid of some of the noise on the display especially above a few 10's of khz plus you can use the probe's x10 switch to increase the scope's range to 400V. Inversely to increase the sensitivity you can put a quality x10 or x100 (or both switchable) AC coupled battery powered preamp with a quality op-amp in front of the scope and have a rig to look at noise on DC power lines and see just how "DC" they really are ...... If the scope measures 1 V spikes then you are seeing a 100 mV or a 10 mV of noise on your DC lines. The reason you use a battery powered preamp is so you aren't introducing extra noise from the opamp's power supply. You can't get cleaner DC than directly from a battery.

Most likely it's defective. If you twist or try to remove the yellow cap you'll break off the little wire coming off the coil that goes to the potted electronics inside the metal shell. When that happens it causes it to be stuck on (triggered) all the time since it cannot sense the coil. I bet a lot of these get broken and then returned and the supplier just ships them back out again and when they return a second time they throw it away as defective, if it doesn't come back then the original customer didn't use it right Instead of testing the returns themselves they just ship it out and let some sucker do the retest.DO NOT TWIST OR TRY TO REMOVE THE YELLOW OR BLUE CAP .... You'll break it every time