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It looks almost like an XY oscilloscope (neat!), are both coils connected to audio signals?As for the size, my CRT scope only used a fraction of the screen - the output was tiny. This instructable might be of use though https://www.instructables.com/id/Fully-Functional-...Best of luck!
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That looks great! I really like the color, and if I run across another old TV I think I'll have to look into what you've suggested; it sounds like there's a lot more freedom for experimentation than I thought.
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Good point! It's been a while since I looked at this, but I was probably looking for voltage doubler circuits and got annoyed when I realized what this was.Thank you for the correction!
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Ooh, now that's a good idea! I recently got a circle punch, so I'll have to see if it can cut an aluminum can.Do you know if normal glue will bond to aluminum?
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"True Random" has a special meaning. Arduino's random() function generates what's called a pseudorandom number - it looks random to us, and it can usually work if you need a random number, but it isn't actually random. The numbers are generated by a set algorithm, so if you use the same seed, you'll actually get the same 'random' number sequence! Similarly, in theory you could figure out the pattern of numbers if you watched them long enough, and then you could predict the next one (this happened with some electronic slot machines recently - a group of people figured out the pattern and found out how to always win).True Random Number Generators (TRNG, or HRNG - H for hardware) use some kind of noise source for their number generation. Typically the noise source will be an elec...
"True Random" has a special meaning. Arduino's random() function generates what's called a pseudorandom number - it looks random to us, and it can usually work if you need a random number, but it isn't actually random. The numbers are generated by a set algorithm, so if you use the same seed, you'll actually get the same 'random' number sequence! Similarly, in theory you could figure out the pattern of numbers if you watched them long enough, and then you could predict the next one (this happened with some electronic slot machines recently - a group of people figured out the pattern and found out how to always win).True Random Number Generators (TRNG, or HRNG - H for hardware) use some kind of noise source for their number generation. Typically the noise source will be an electrical component like a diode, and the noise comes from random flow of electrons whose stems from quantum mechanical processes.That being said, pseudorandom is good enough for plenty of things.On another note, I really like the rolling animation! Nice touch.
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That's a great idea! I'll have to look for one next time I'm at a craft store.
I see. Admittedly, I started sanding from a pretty uneven cut, so I used a sheet of 60 grit sandpaper (by hand) before the disks, but for what I was doing (the mouth of a glass), the disks - 5 grits - held up fine. The 60 grit disk took a beating though.For sanding something large, doing it by hand is probably the winning route.
Well, not the way I do it I suppose. Any thoughts or tips?
Well, not the way I do it I suppose.
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Glad you got it, and with the full height of the screen too! Looks great.
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I see a headphone jack and I can see some of the coil connections, but I can't quite make out where everything is going. Would you be able to sketch a diagram showing connections? In particular, any connections that you've changed, moved around, soldered/desoldered, etc.
I like the idea! If you find the speaker(s), it should lead you right to the TV's amplifier, and if it's an integrated circuit (a chip) you might be able to look it up online for more info. There's always danger working inside the TV because of the high voltages. As for this specific modification, the amplifier is not designed to drive the deflection coils. This could potentially lead to excessive heating which, in the worst, case means fire! I don't think that's particularly likely, but if you try it, be safe!
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That's interesting! With my computer I am able to plug a cord directly from the headphone jack to the microphone jack and record audio - I think my laptop has an internal adjustment so instead of expecting a microphone it reads as a "Line In."It took me a bit to understand, but this is a very creative solution. I also happen to have a number of condenser mics sitting in a drawer somewhere, so this might be a good first project with them.
The final device looks very nice, and I like the multiple layers of insulation, but why not use the auxiliary cable by itself?
Does this record sound from the speaker, using the microphone?
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From the things people have posted over the past few years I've learned that not all TVs are the same (unfortunately, I haven't quite learned in what ways they're different), so things seem to vary with the instructions here.So, for yours, have you tried swapping around the horizontal coil (tried it on both the horizontal and vertical sweep-drives)? Mine only went fully across the screen for one of the 2 configurations; the other one performed better.Let me know how it goes; from the looks of it you're really close!
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Headphone Wall HookView Instructable »
I imagine if you spin the disc fast enough, the files would fly out of the sides because of centrifugal force!On a more serious note though. I imagine it's possible to write something uniform across the whole disc. Imagine you write a 1 to every memory location on the disc. Not only would it render the information on the disc unreadable; it would also give the disc a uniform color - (I know for many CD's and DVD's the written area is darker than the unwritten area). There's a program called DBAN (Disc Boot and Nuke) that does something like this for hard drives, it might work for disc media.Going from your picture, your works look very nice. Good luck!
I've definitely experienced this flaw! Especially with a pair of nice low impedance headphones being plugged in at the same time as a pair of cheap ear buds. Luckily, my non-audiophile ears weren't sensitive to any introduced distortion, but the volume difference is huge. For high impedance loads (auxiliary ports and the like) I haven't had any issues.The resistor thing is interesting. I'll admit that I don't entirely understand passive audio circuits that work that way; I suppose the 33 Ohm resistor effectively swamps whatever impedance your headphones are, so the differences become negligible?
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