Make_Things

This is fantastic...you've made my day! Thank you so much for sharing and I LOVE it!

Thank you for your comment! Do me a huge favor and hit the "I made it!" as well as sending me a picture. I absolutely LOVE seeing what others come up with when they do these projects!

“ I am fully aware that with the information we provide in this video, you can certainly build one yourself without plans. ”Yeah, but this isn’t youtube. Is this a new policy here? I thought the idea of instructables was that someone could come to this website and build something without hitting a paywall. It’s very strange to see someone send people away for money to come back to build something here.

Great job man! I like the vinegar bath idea...gives it a nice wear look to it!Congrats for hitting the newsletter too!

What is the kerf of your blade? If you’re using a 3/8-16 rod, every turn will be a 1/16”. Most blades are thin kerf in the stores (at least around me) and are 3/32” wide. 3/32” wide is almost 2 spins with a 3/8-16 rod. If you use the full 2 spins, you’ll have an extra 1/32” of space for each side of a tooth. Some people like a loose joint...and that is most certainly a loose joint. I like to do a half crank on the end of my last cut which eliminates the 1/32” and gives you a nice tight joint. So say I want a 5 turn tooth. On the last twist I do a half. In essence it’s 4 1/2” cut turns and 2 non cut turns. If you’re using a 1/4-20 rod...you’re in untamed waters. I’ve used a 5/16-18 rod...which was doable but difficult.

Ugh! I know the feeling. Because I’ve never used a 1/4-20, I can only guess. Have you tried doing 1/2 rotations? But wait, is it too big or too little (the non cuts)?

Thanks. I take it you’re /not/ in the United States then? Or are you a hopeless rebel?I’ve thought about converting my woodworking shop to the metric system (as it would be far easier) but it would be impossible now as my core audience is in the US. Thanks for the discussion. I’ve learned something today!

Okay, I’m an 1diot. That totally makes sense and is indeed much simpler.

I'm all in favor of using MM, so long as it's a standard in my country and in local box stores. I'm not really worried so much about the diameter, but the threads per cm (is that correct?), like TPI. Since the imperial system uses 1/16", and a 3/8-16 threaded rod has 16 TPI, each crank I make is a 1/16 of an inch.What I'm wondering is if there's a 1/10 threads per cm. That would make it incredibly easy to work with. Each crank would then equal a millimeter.

That’s very interesting...anything that equals 10mm though? Say a 6mm/10mm rod with a 1mm pitch? That would work the best to keep things aligned with the (10’s) metric system.

I really tried to do that at the beginning when I came to instructables, but the amount of research I did was absurd and often times I felt like items were so different to localities that I really didn’t feel like I was doing much good. For example: I used a 3/8-16 threaded rod in this project. In America, that’s very common. I could probably hit any local store and pick one up. But how does that translate to a metric rod in Australia? What’s the TPI (I don’t know what you call that in the metric system). If you want to translate I would be more than happy to add it...but it’s a lot of work.

Thank you! They’re incredible beautiful and some of the strongest joints! Let me know if you make it!

It makes it twice as fast if you clamp them in two’s, although I’d wager you could probably do 4 with the advanced clamping plate. Thank you so much for watching...it means a lot!

Yeah, but everything is a little bit more out there unfortunately. 😬

Same here. The scale boxes won’t allow me to make a change. Fit to page is unchecked, use model extents is checked. Printer is set right. Very strange.

Thanks!

Hey!I live pretty far out in the country (about 30 minutes from town) and have carried sheet(s) of plywood before, but would probably destroy the plywood on its own or my rack on top. I mean, really, I could have brought or bought lumber to stack with it...but it still makes me extremely paranoid when I’m going 45 (that’s 10 below the speed limit here) and a semi from the opposite lane brings a massive gust of air against me. 😂

Sharp blades are infinitely better than dull chipped ones, trust me, I have a bunch of those around here. I made this one with a battery powered saw only for the purpose of breaking down panels at the store...but it could very easily be made with a corded one.I haven't run into the problem you're talking about (yet!) with this jig, but I'll definitely give an update and a fix if I do. Thank you for taking the time to leave your thoughts, very much appreciate it Travis.

I haven’t noticed any marks...but it doesn’t move as it’s locked in the track. The problem with it hanging off the side of the jig is that chip out is bad on half of it. This holds both edges under and keeps that from happening. The other problem with it being off the edge is that you have a much larger footprint as you can’t connect them together. Of course, unless you find another way to link them.Thank you for looking it over and commenting.

Can I borrow it?!

Haha, I'm not great a catching them myself but am not too proud to fix things, so don't be afraid to elbow me and let me know. These 'ibles are like my children and I don't mind advice to raise them to be better.

Yes thank you! I’ll make the change. I appreciate it!

If you do, please post a picture here in the 'I made it' area. I can't begin to tell you how good it feels seeing someone throw my ideas together. If you make improvements to this simple system I am even willing to update and give you credit for it.

Thank you so much for posting this! This made my week...no month! I’m so happy to see someone made a project I wrote instructions for...awesome!

You’re the second person to say that they ‘squeeze’ in a t-nut. I’m going to have to try that approach.

Awesome! Be sure you upload an image of what you make...I’d love to see it!

Thank you!

This is beautiful! Please let me know how it performs for you...I'm really happy to see one of my projects made by someone else! Thank you for sharing this with me!

I’ve never seen that before, very interesting. Bit expensive though. 🤔

Lot of hostility here. That’s okay. I’ve made a number of things that people automatically shoot down, using their own logic to dictate why something won’t work. That’s okay. I assume that you don't know there are metal tubing panel clamps sold right now for hundreds of dollars. You can paint targets on those scammers, I'm not trying to make money on these plans.Rockler sells panel clamps for $64.99..."on sale" for $47.99. That's for ONE. One panel clamp won't get you anything more than a ton of anger.https://www.rockler.com/damstom-38-in-panel-clamp-...The reviews for these are quite bad. They're thin metal and flimsy.Then I found some called "Panel Max Glue Press" for $249 for 3 of them. That's $83 a piece.https://www.amazon.com/s?k=panel+max+glue+press&…

Lot of hostility here. That’s okay. I’ve made a number of things that people automatically shoot down, using their own logic to dictate why something won’t work. That’s okay. I assume that you don't know there are metal tubing panel clamps sold right now for hundreds of dollars. You can paint targets on those scammers, I'm not trying to make money on these plans.Rockler sells panel clamps for $64.99..."on sale" for $47.99. That's for ONE. One panel clamp won't get you anything more than a ton of anger.https://www.rockler.com/damstom-38-in-panel-clamp-...The reviews for these are quite bad. They're thin metal and flimsy.Then I found some called "Panel Max Glue Press" for $249 for 3 of them. That's $83 a piece.https://www.amazon.com/s?k=panel+max+glue+press&i=...Mine cost about $20, which will get you 2 panel clamp sets. I'm not making any money here, I thought it would be a good project that someone would enjoy making. If anything, I wasted about $100 of my own money buying a heap of tubing trying to find the best way to make this project work.I really don't appreciate you storming in here and accusing me of making someone use their hard earned money instead of using garbage throw away scrap wood to make something that you have no idea works or not. I would never, ever, try to scam any other user into spending money on something that I knew didn't work, which is why I spent a considerable amount of my time and resources making sure people have an easy method of making these so that it works for them.I guess this all looks easy. Maybe a couple hours filming, 30 minutes of editing, a half hour to write an instructable, right? Wrong. This project took me 3 weeks to complete. 60-70 hours to gather materials, waste materials to completion. I spent a few of those nights and days starring at the ceiling trying to figure out the best method to make something work.I spent 6 hours in editing of the video alone, including voiceover work which came to 3 pages of dialoguel (which I wrote out before recording). Another two hours of recording the audio. The instructable took me off and on about a week to write up, after I had submitted the video to youtube. That's a week of writing and cutting the project up where I didn't do anything else in my workshop. One day alone was the equivalent of a full work day, 8 hours.Am I asking that you love this? No. I'm not asking for anything from you or anyone else. This is a labor of love only. I enjoy helping others make things. So why would I spend so much time trying to make this work if I knew that my own results were phony and that somebody else wouldn't be able to do what I did?Thank you!

Thank you, those are much appreciated words! As far as square tubing goes, it is a lot more expensive (nearly 50% more). If money is less of an issue, skip round and square and go with unistrut. It’s far more rigid and the holes are drilled out already. Of course, I wouldn’t use this instructable at that point as this instructable was a means of making an expensive tools for far less expense. For what it does at 26”, I’m proud to say that it performs very well and I’ve used this on a few projects to say that I’ve never had any problems with it. Besides that, using the technique I stumbled upon uses the round tubing to a greater advantage, allowing you to spring the rod into your project. I’m not entirely sure how well that would work with square tubing. I personally wouldn’t recomme…

Thank you, those are much appreciated words! As far as square tubing goes, it is a lot more expensive (nearly 50% more). If money is less of an issue, skip round and square and go with unistrut. It’s far more rigid and the holes are drilled out already. Of course, I wouldn’t use this instructable at that point as this instructable was a means of making an expensive tools for far less expense. For what it does at 26”, I’m proud to say that it performs very well and I’ve used this on a few projects to say that I’ve never had any problems with it. Besides that, using the technique I stumbled upon uses the round tubing to a greater advantage, allowing you to spring the rod into your project. I’m not entirely sure how well that would work with square tubing. I personally wouldn’t recommend using aluminum as that will be an even more expensive method and I would expect aluminum to be far weaker. I am totally appreciative to all those that find ways to make this an even better instructable, but since I’ve never used the methods that you have recommended, I can’t recommend them myself. If you or someone else has used those other materials...please!, don’t hesitate to give me a heads up!Thank you yrralguthrie!

Thank you!Yeah, I’ve seen them. These cost $20-30 to make, at least for these 26” sections. I don’t know, I have more fun making the tools I use. Thanks for the heads up!

Unfortunately, Chinese markers are the only accepted form of marking device, all others are counterfeit.😜

You’re awesome!Unfortunately, Chinese markers are the only accepted form of marking device, all others are counterfeit.Love you buddy!😜

Unfortunately, Ch nese markers are the only accepted form of marking device, all others are count rfeit.Love you buddy!😜

Unfortunately, Ch nese markers are the only accepted form of marking device, all others are counterfeit.Love you buddy!😜

I'm so glad you guys made an instructable out of this! I've been following you both on instagram and youtube for a long time now and can't believe how creative and skilled you both are! Beautiful work Ben, very impressive!

Indeed!!

If you’ve just been using a hand drill, the drill press gives you the feeling that 10 chimpanzees are helping you push down!

Absolutely incredible. This is fine living. Wow!

Hey, thanks for commenting! I’m sure there’s probably a million ways to do this, this just happened to be the one I came up with. I moved the knobs off to the side because I didn’t want them to interfere with what’s being drilled in the center as well as the force needed to push the base together as well as turning the knobs at the same time. As for a different base...with the drill press clamp I made I can easily screw in different bases, which I guess has made me a bit lazy when it comes to an all in one base. But it surely could be done!

Honestly, I just used sketchup and downloaded (from the 3d warehouse) an octagon and drew circles on each of the faces, cutting out those circles which left me the shape. Because I’m either too lazy or...yeah, it’s just lazy, I just resized for my printer until I got the size I was looking for. I have a lot of those images I use on my knob instructable I’d youd just like to download and resize yourself: https://www.instructables.com/Stupid-Easy-Project-Knobs/Thanks for your interest!

Thank you! Yeah, I’ve seen a lot of other types of jigs, but I wanted something that didn’t need a bar clamp to tighten the jaws. Let me know if you use this, I never get follow ups and would love to hear back if it worked for you.

Thank you Jessy, it's been kind of my secret to growing large gardens now for a while. I hope others can find it as useful as I have!

Thank you, first, for the compliments.I would agree with you on the basis of hot glue not getting you close enough to the wood, unless the glue is fully heated up. Hot glue, at it's maximum temperature, can be set in a thin layer. Still, though, this probably won't get you as close as wood and glue alone would get.I do remember Mathias Wandel one time testing glues and finding that even filling a joint up with glue would make little difference or be even better.Found it!So hogoo'ing doesn't seem like it has a problem in terms of strength (and from Mathias's results having more glue between a joint might be better).Thank you for commenting!

Wow...that almost knocked me over! Patents are great...fantastic...and cost more money than I have. Since I've already publicized this, I'm not sure I could do a patent, but there's been a few of my instructables where I thought, "I really think this could be a money maker!" This one, definitely. Picture frames, mitered tabletops and any sort of box that has begun to drift could easily be repaired without having to use a table saw (for regular splines). Oh well! Thank you SO much for this feedback!

Like a finger ring, or a larger ring?

Thank you so much! This was a fun project to make...let me know if you ever make it!

Just did and glad you mentioned it...I didn’t realize it was part of a contest.

Hello!Yes, you could cut several odd shapes triangles, but, assuming you’re talking about using a hand drill (at least from the setup you’ve provided) you would lose the straight depth cut that a drill press provides. If you were going to do it on a drill press, you’d also have to have the exact shaped triangles on the opposite side, all of which would have to be in the same plane with each other. For a quick, dirty jig, I could see your method working, but you’d sacrifice accuracy and repeatability.

I’ve been there! Hand made jigs are like an extension to what a tool can do.

Woooooow!!!!! My all time favorite game...in the arcade look that got a couple grand in quarters from me (yeah, I’m a dinosaur)!And all the parts easily listed for me to grab on eBay!Get over here instructable!(VERY nice build!!!)

Very cool!

Big thank you! I"d also really love to see what it looks like...and I think there's a feature here that allows you to upload pictures...I think...

Thank you, that means a lot! Sometimes I wonder if I include too many pictures, but sometimes there’s a lot of steps.

It’s in one of my pictures with a big cross through it. I talk about how worthless I think they are in my video and give reasons why. I think they’re a good idea but really need to be reworked, and wish that they’d be easily removable instead of having to unscrew the nut from the long stud. As for using it with a jig, I thinks it’s overly large and gets in the way. I have a jig for cutting angled holes on the drill press (which should be an instructable in the next few days) that wouldn’t work with that. Thank you for the mention though, I love finding easy solutions and had hoped, when I bought one of those a few months ago, that that would be it.

Haha, no problem. I was hoping I wasn’t coming across as being rude, as it is sometimes hard to understand inflection in comments. Thanks for commenting. ;)

Wow!! Thank you, you made my night!

Thank you!!

Oh I’ve definitely done that, and it does work very well...my wife is getting tired of losing the salt shaker to my workshop. Need to get—make my own!

Thank you! The really cool thing about this jig is unlike so many others, you don’t have to set the blade or bit to a certain height. The miter saw, in its locked position sets it up perfectly!

If you do, please post pictures or tell me if I’m missing anything! I want to make sure everyone can make this.

That is so cool of you to say! I’m blessed to have the opportunities to be able to put my ideas to use.