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  • 12V Relay with Timer Switch

    Did you connect the battery BOTH WAYS? If you only used one polarity, and that happened to be the same polarity the actuator was "maxed" for, the actuator would "not work" even if it was fine.

    I made this project, and it does work: the components and wiring diagrams produce a useful 12V actuator timer. The writing is pretty much useless, and many details are not thought out. I ended up making my own diagram showing ALL components (battery, timer, relay, actuator) as separate graphic blocks and revising to have wire junctions only at the terminals, with no more than two wires per terminal. Then I did it my way. I recommend 18# wire for most of the diagram. Why solder wires to the timer when it has 1/4" male spade terminals? I used 1/4" female spade lugs for mine and they worked great-- and they're disconnectable. The relay terminals are tiny screw-down clamps with square pads under rigid little square washers. For these connections I do recommend solder: after stripp...

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    I made this project, and it does work: the components and wiring diagrams produce a useful 12V actuator timer. The writing is pretty much useless, and many details are not thought out. I ended up making my own diagram showing ALL components (battery, timer, relay, actuator) as separate graphic blocks and revising to have wire junctions only at the terminals, with no more than two wires per terminal. Then I did it my way. I recommend 18# wire for most of the diagram. Why solder wires to the timer when it has 1/4" male spade terminals? I used 1/4" female spade lugs for mine and they worked great-- and they're disconnectable. The relay terminals are tiny screw-down clamps with square pads under rigid little square washers. For these connections I do recommend solder: after stripping 3/8" from the wire ends, twist the ends tightly and saturate with solder before placing them in the terminals and clamping-- makes for a cleaner, stronger, no-fuss connection.

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