MikeTheMaker

Let's try something else--maybe the signature needs to be set in your Pixy. After the blocks = pixy.getBlocks(); statement, make sure it looks like the code below (also make sure that Pixy is trained to the first color signature for the color you want to track. The "signature" is set for 1 to 7 to determine which trained color is being searched for). if (blocks) { i++; if (i%5==0){ if(pixy.blocks[0].signature==1) {if(pixy.blocks[0].x>170)

Let's ignore the motors for a moment and make sure that the information coming from the Pixy arduino is correct. Do both leds illuminate when the target is straight ahead? Does only one led come on when the target is to the right, then the other to the left? Once we know that is correct, we can diagnose the situation further.

It sounds like the Pixy camera is working, but the Arduino is not interpreting the data. Did you use the "hello_lightdetect0518.ino" file at the end of step #9 for the Arduino connected to the camera--that's the best way to avoid any typing errors.

If you follow the schematic diagram in step #6, everything should be just fine. The yellow wire next to the motor shield connects Vin on the screw terminals to Vin on the power header--this is only necessary if the "Vin connect" trace on the back side of the motor shield has been cut (mine was cut for use in another project).When testing, watch the red and white leds on pins 3 and 8 of the "sensor Arduino." If they are both on, the left and right motors should be active. If one led is on, the motors on one side should be active. If no leds are illuminated, the motors will not turn.Most problems relate to the image that the camera "sees." If a window or lamp is in the camera's image area, the camera will probably be "blinded' by the light and fail to se...

If you follow the schematic diagram in step #6, everything should be just fine. The yellow wire next to the motor shield connects Vin on the screw terminals to Vin on the power header--this is only necessary if the "Vin connect" trace on the back side of the motor shield has been cut (mine was cut for use in another project).When testing, watch the red and white leds on pins 3 and 8 of the "sensor Arduino." If they are both on, the left and right motors should be active. If one led is on, the motors on one side should be active. If no leds are illuminated, the motors will not turn.Most problems relate to the image that the camera "sees." If a window or lamp is in the camera's image area, the camera will probably be "blinded' by the light and fail to see the target. If the target color (green in my example) can be found on objects other than the target, the Pixy camera will "see" and "identify" those and the system will act confused due to multiple target identification.

Thanks for your encouragement! The display now has five operating trains. I can't imagine having more, but never say never :)

The power supply is set to 5 amps (maximum) and it reduces the voltage applied to achieve that current level. When the voltage on the capacitor approaches 5.4 volts, the current level drops--these levels have to be "dialed in" to the power supply.

The slinky is attached with tape--I think it will work on a "seesaw type board" as long as the slinky is attached. Good luck with your version!

Thanks!

Bob,We're looking at ways to make it distinctive. I've found a way to coat the 3d print so that it will accept her paint without "bleeding" down the print layers--that should give her much more control over the paint process. The tree will have 30-50 individually blinking lights. How we decorate the engine as well as what happens on the second car (and half the third car) are still under consideration--we like movement, lights, interesting things. This instructable is just a "proof that we can build something that will ride the rail and pick up power," so we're happy with the current result.

I think you can get 10 meters out of this, but you might want to make the body a little longer and the rear wheels larger in diameter. The distance is mainly determined by how many times the rear wheel turns before the rubber band is unwound, so a larger wheel (as long as the rubber band can turn it) will take you farther.

In step number 17, "vision_soft.ino" is the code for the Pixy camera.

Thank you! I enjoyed the challenge of putting it all together.

Thanks, always good to hear from you! I created a bigger version of this as a Halloween 3d printed table . . https://community.makezine.com/share/mike-rigsby/g...

Great detective work!

Here's another image of the bar:

Thank you--it's always great to hear words of encouragement from you! A video of the entire project can be seen here I have kept up with most of the steps at this location: https://hackaday.io/project/11397-santas-shopIt looks like we'll get the thing into a display window in a local business in December--keeping our fingers crossed.We have enjoyed this, seeing what we could put together just for fun (no commercial benefit at all).

If the power for the Arduino comes from a low quality wall wart, then there is interference. I'm speculating that "noise" from the wall wart travels along the wire and is so close to the antenna and Arduino that it creates problems. I have not seen any problems caused by wall warts in the room where the sensor is operating. Mainly, I just wanted to point out that powering the Arduino from a wall wart may result in failure to detect.