MusaW

i have fix the issue, please download it and flash it the wemos again (update 31/3/2019)

i have fix the issue, please download it and flash it the wemos again (update 31/3/2019)

i have fix the issue, please download it and flash it the wemos again (update 31/3/2019)

maybe u can read the data sheet first, look for the move command... if there is a different with my command u can adjust it...

i have fix the issue, please download it again here

silahkan cari di tokopedia om, untuk yg kaki 6 https://www.tokopedia.com/maluegha/simple-nodemcu-18-dof-hexapod-spider-frame-only atau kaki 4 https://www.tokopedia.com/maluegha/diy-frame-kit-wifi-quadruped-robot-12dof-frame-only tapi part electronik nya cari sendiri...

i have fix the code, update 31-3-2019... please download it again

first, what error did u have now?

did u mean that the code is not runing exacly every 30 min or what?one thing that u must understand that this servo driver have to wait for every servo finish move acknoledge...sometime that acnoledge take more time and sometimes is not... maybe that's the reason that u looking for...

yes u can, but remember better to split the power source between controller and servo. because if the power drop your robot still working fine...

this project is basicaly still on progress, i'll be happy if u want to remix some of it and fix it... because maybe i still don't have time to finish it soon enought...

sure, u re welcome

u re welcome

but can u open that address ? http://192.168.4.2

try to do initial pose again... until all the movement is OK

in hexapod u have to connect RX and TX pin corectly because there's some looping routine that's checking feed back from servo driver, that's feedback indicates that the all servos has reach the position.the respond that's wemos waiting is "OK" feedback, if the wemos not receiving "OK" feedback than the wemos will continue waiting...

check this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2k3CzT5qE0

all RX and TX from and to Wemos and Servo Drivers have to firmly connected, because looping routine always check "OK respond" from the 32 servo drivers. If servo driver not found and there is no "OK" respond, than program will be loop in "void the wait_serial_return_ok()"This mistake will cause : - Cannot connect to the AP - Blank web page - Page loading progress not finish

all RX and TX from and to Wemos and Servo Drivers have to firmly connected, because looping routine always check "OK respond" from the 32 servo drivers. If servo driver not found and there is no "OK" respond, than program will be loop in "void the wait_serial_return_ok()"This mistake will cause : - Cannot connect to the AP - Blank web page - Page loading progress not finish

i think your wemos is broke... because i have same experience like that too with wemos, and i have to replace the wemos with a new one...

just simple arduino code... include in my instructables

yes i use heat shrink tube, but as u know almost all quadruped design has this issue... that's why i create hexapod :) https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-NodeMCU-18-DOF-Hexapod/

so, do u have he we page or not?u can try to flash it with eeprom clear first...load this arduino code from file>Examples>eeprom>eeprom_clear and flash it to the webmosafter that re upload the quadruped code...if this not working for u, maybe u got the fail one of the wemos production... 3 of 10 of my wemos has the same issue like this...but usually the issue related to the AP...

also be careful working with wemos, because it seem a litle bit fragile... and in my experience 3 of 10 clone wemos d1 have some issue from production line when it become AP

you are welcome...

basicaly it just combine ESP6288 as an AP and add web server on it...https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/esp8266-thing-hookup-guide/example-sketch-ap-web-server

yes it is move like your video, i just speed up the video to match to the soundtrack... :)if u want to have spider robot that's can move faster, u can check my hexapod project https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-NodeMCU-18-DOF-Hexapod/

u can using standard 200mm x 200mm print bed

try using raft for your model...is 60 deg not a little bit to low for PLA?

usually it's causing by bad on first layer, it's not stick enough to the bed... try to using Headbed sticker like https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?initiative_id...it really helping me... plus using BLtouch for auto level the bed...

it's seems to be temperature failure on the hot end... some times same material have different temp range... depend on the quality of the material... u better do some temperature test for your material to know which temp suitable for your printer and material...

U can see on https://youtu.be/bHbfp6JCPTM

this camera gimbal for runcam split or runcam 2 striphttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563498

hmm... i will check it... or if u don't mind maybe u could fix it...

nice built...

still on progress for that

yes u can... there is a lot of fold able blade in the market, or some people modified original mavic propeller for it...

i still remake the gimbal for better result, i put smaller motor and dumper rubber for reduce jello effect...gimbal version 2 is on going...

i put the electronic generally, because it's depend with what u need... personally i use naze 32 because it's small and good enough for me...

all model using 3dmax...

try this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2144285

sorry, for the late respond... but the extension arm i have is not modified with the last modified arm. maybe after i update that... i will post the extended arm...

hey thanks for the question... there is some reason why i design it like that...1. i found that really difficult to make a prefect circle horizontally, so every time i print the "body_bottom" include "spacer" in it, the arm not really fit in it...2. i think i need more dense for the "spacer" part to make it stronger (100% infill) but i don't need the whole "body_bottom" same with it (i just need 50% infill).3. in some case (like your drone crash very bad) usually this lock part is broke because it hold the rear arm when it crash. with make it separate part like this i can replace it partially, no need to print the whole "body_bottom" again.That's is some reason that make my design like right now... i hope it help u understand the reason ...

hey thanks for the question... there is some reason why i design it like that...1. i found that really difficult to make a prefect circle horizontally, so every time i print the "body_bottom" include "spacer" in it, the arm not really fit in it...2. i think i need more dense for the "spacer" part to make it stronger (100% infill) but i don't need the whole "body_bottom" same with it (i just need 50% infill).3. in some case (like your drone crash very bad) usually this lock part is broke because it hold the rear arm when it crash. with make it separate part like this i can replace it partially, no need to print the whole "body_bottom" again.That's is some reason that make my design like right now... i hope it help u understand the reason behind it...

thanks... nothing is prefect so it's still on going improvement...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037525

but it's still test some improvement...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2037525

soon i will post another instructable... i still built another prototype for it, soon when it's done i will post it...

no, as long as the weight is in the center.... when u put your gyro it's must in the center of gravity of the drone.... and don't forget to do auto tune if your FC have it...PS: mavic have a lower motor too for the rear motor...

i recommended u to use FC like naze32, because it's pretty small and easy to use and install... there's a lot of tutorial u can follow such as this video

Just finish First version Mini Gimbal... still tweaking the BGC configuration...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CRgjGHmq7cInstructables for this will follow soon...

basically i just use 3 type of 3mm screw and u can easily find it in any hardware store: 34mm long, 19mm long and 12 long... my suggestion try to replace 34mm long screw with longer than that for the arm "bone" (if u can find one)i think like this one...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-6g-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-WOOD-SCREWS-POZI-CSK-10mm-THROUGH-TO-50mm-/190718538596

Mavic clone gimbal project .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMBokzGbGWc

upgrade the motor, ARdrone have a nice platform... i think that's look nice to upgrade it...

any of that who has 1.0mm coil, 9mm Outer Diameter and 7mm inner diameter with height 22mm

i use 2212 motor... i think u can find detail of the dimension on the internet... i think like this one http://robotic-controls.com/sites/default/files/images/motor_draw.png

i use curaengine in repetierhost...