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Underarm fitting: My family has large shoulders and very musceled. Therefore there is always a problem with the fit of sleeves and underarms. To accommodate this, you draw a line down the length of the sleeve, that would follow the grain, cut the pattern, insert 2 inches of material that will wedge down and come together at the wrist. This allows for more material where you need it, allows for more arm movement and will accommodate the heavier sweaters easier. The 2 inches at the top will result in more of a gathered appearance at the arch of the shoulder and some of it may be eased down the sides.
I have worked with silicone on home repair projects. when I want it to stick to one surface and not an adjoining surface, I slightly, very slightly dampen the surface I don't want it to stick to and powder it with baby powder. This works when you are laying down a bead, but if you move the work too much, the silicone will absorb the baby powder. Otherwise it works great.
Baby Powder, about 1/8 inch layer will also keep it from sticking. Also, when using a silicone mold, baby powder works as a release agent.
I am going to use this to make decorative soap molds, it should work perfectly! Thanks ever so much, just what I have been looking for.
Thank you for this. I think you did an excellent job and covered all the necessities. Too bad with all the side tracks on the galvanized stuff. After all, what is the internet for? Look it up yourself. All I am saying is "8 years Later and still relevant!". Thanks again.
This was very informative. I have experience with making the models for making the molds and pouring to create the actual pins, earrings, etc. but the marketing I was a little short on. This filled in the gaps and it very much appreciated. This was 20 years ago and today with the laser printers and cutters it would seam much simpler. Good luck with your endeavors and I look forward to seeing more and hearing about your success.
Oh the possibilities! I can see getting proficient doing it this way and the from the other side. And then from both side to the center and from the center to both sides! Wow, a whole new world. Thanks for sharing this. I am so excited. Your pictures and descriptions made this seen very doable.
By removing a little of the leather in a V shape along the line that you want, you would be able to make a crisper fold. I hope this helps
For not working with leather before, this was an excellent project. one tip: when you want to make a clean crisp fold in leather, you do 2 things, first remove a slight amount of the material. I bend mine over a thin metal rod, about 1/4 inch in diameter and with a utility knife, take off about 1/8 - 3/16 inch wide piece. There are leather tools for this also. Second, wet the leather from the rough side, lay the rod down along the groove and hit the rod back and forth. Fold over the leather, weight it and let it dry. once it is dry and you fold it open, the edge will be crisp and the piece will not bow out. I can see that it would help with the top and bottom edges to do this also. The lazer cutting was very cool! I wish I had that toy! (Tool envy big time!)
The only thing it needs now are leather handles on each side for moving. I am definitely going to make one.
Leather Tools and Supplies
Mold Making & Casting Class
Simple One Part Mold
Flexible Block Molds
Tools & Supplies
Two Part Molds