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Sweet!! I just my Starret 436-1" from a pawn shop's dollar box. It was sticking. So after reading, I removed the thimble and used a stainless steel pad and a little adhesive remover (didn't) know where my 3n1 oil was. Works now like a charm. Need to adjust it though. I think its only .001" out; as when the faces just touch the line is on the 1. The lock ring doesn't work.
I work with flight simulators, I like your, over the top, fix. The only thing I would do a little different is to use a separate resistor for each led. I would use a 330ohm resistor per led in that way you are guaranteed to have only 15ma through the led. With your 100ohm resistor, you will have a max draw of 50ma/2 = 25ma per led, which is too much current.
ok, I might have been a little hard on you. But I can not envision the importance of proper strain relief. The purpose of the clamp is two-fold: 1 is to protect the wire abrading the wood. 2 is to hold the wire in place. hope I'm preaching to the choir. I have retired now aside I held a master electrical license, ex-AF Crew Chief, and BSEE/Aerospace/Computer Science Engineer.I'm glad you never got shocked I took a summer class in electronics before my freshmen HS year and Got Nailed by an Oscilloscope' HV that jumped to a control knob. (held in with Allen Screw and metal shaft) That SOB put me on the ground. I have been shocked many times since 1963/4. and will always go the extra mile for safety. FYI 120vac makes you release. 220vac and it grabs you and does not let go!
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