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OleU1

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  • Digital 3D Printer Filament Counter Use PS/2 Mouse

    Thanks for your great design.The actual marlin 2.0.x supports rotary encoders as filament motion sensors. You only have to uncomment "#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25" and "#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR" in configuration.hThe principle is as follows:In FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM you define the lengh of filament extraction reliable causing an impule from the encoder disc. Marlin counts the lengh of filament extruded. Every tongle from the Sensor output resets the counter. If the counter exceeds the Filament runout distance set, this means the filament is tangled, the hotend clogged or the filament has runout. The printer pause and you can change filament, untongle it or try to clean nozzle.So defining an output pin toggling on every impulse of the encoder wheel …

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    Thanks for your great design.The actual marlin 2.0.x supports rotary encoders as filament motion sensors. You only have to uncomment "#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25" and "#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR" in configuration.hThe principle is as follows:In FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM you define the lengh of filament extraction reliable causing an impule from the encoder disc. Marlin counts the lengh of filament extruded. Every tongle from the Sensor output resets the counter. If the counter exceeds the Filament runout distance set, this means the filament is tangled, the hotend clogged or the filament has runout. The printer pause and you can change filament, untongle it or try to clean nozzle.So defining an output pin toggling on every impulse of the encoder wheel might be a good idea, so the filament counter also acts as smart filament sensor - like the Bigtreetech Smart Filament sensor, only much cooler and even cheaper.

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  • Yes, your concern may be correct, as even different generations of hue bulbs may result in slightly different colours, so a lightstrip from a different company will differ more. Its mostly a problem mixing different solutions in the same room. If all lights in a room are madeyourself, who bothers its not the exactly same colour hue would do? Simply make the colour settings as you like.One possible solution to adjust different solutions in one room would be an arduino with PulseIn() to meassure the PWM, computing a colour adjustment and give a corrected PWM out. I have not tried this now, as I did not mix different solutions in a room.GU5.3 are available in different versions. Old cheap ones from china used a resistor (like lightstrips) and a not very bright. They would work on PWM, but th…

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    Yes, your concern may be correct, as even different generations of hue bulbs may result in slightly different colours, so a lightstrip from a different company will differ more. Its mostly a problem mixing different solutions in the same room. If all lights in a room are madeyourself, who bothers its not the exactly same colour hue would do? Simply make the colour settings as you like.One possible solution to adjust different solutions in one room would be an arduino with PulseIn() to meassure the PWM, computing a colour adjustment and give a corrected PWM out. I have not tried this now, as I did not mix different solutions in a room.GU5.3 are available in different versions. Old cheap ones from china used a resistor (like lightstrips) and a not very bright. They would work on PWM, but they are nearly nowhere available anymore.In most cases there is a constant current source in LED lights. There are four types of constant current sources:1. non dimmable2. phase-controlled dimmable (traditional dimming method)3. PWM dimmable4. 0-10V control inputIn case 3+4 mostly a seperate input is used for controlling. All case 2 and some case 3 using the power-input. A rectifier and a capacitor are at the power input, then the constant current module, then the led. The constant current module have a line to sense the signal directly at the input to detect the phase cuts (type 2, mostly simly marked as "dimmable" light) or the PWM (type 3).Phase control or PWM do not control the light directly, they are "dimming information transfer protocols" to the constant current modules. But as they also cut the power, the capacitor must be big enough to fill the power cuts. In GU5.3 space is rare, the size of the capacitor is limited. So the lowest dimming is about 30-40% brighness, lower brightness will result in flicker, as the capacitor will not be able to fill the power cut.GU 5.3 nearly always are 1. or 2. I only found one product explicit marked as PWM-dimmable. While type 1 is very cheap and type 2 is available at resonable prices (as its compatible to the traditional dimming system for glow-lamps or halogen), type 3 is a special solution nearly never asked by customers. I found only one product, at a "reduced price": 8€ + transport = 15€. For one(!) GU 5.3.Most customers do not know, what "PWM dimmable" means. Due to the high price, the seem to think "PWM" means something very good (it is, but not in the sense they think). So they complained, as they did not work in their phase controlled systems...Time is money, so some merchants want to get rid of these trouble-making PWM-bulbs, selling them for 15€/10pcs incl. VAT and transport as "not dimable bulbs", ignoring they are PWM-dimmable. So I got 30 GU 5.3 PWM dimable for a very low price.They work well, dimming range about 40-100% (maybe 30-100%, hard to say as the eye automaticly adjust to lower brigtness - I have no measuring system). No filcker. But a disturbing 1kHz tone.There is no PWM frequency printed at the product description of the bulbs. So maybe they are designed for lower or higher PWM frequencys. I may try an arduino to find the right frequency to be loudless; with PulseIn() it would be easy to measure the Pulse of a tradfri or hue and set the correct pulse with higher or lower frequency at the pwm-out at the arduino. As the PWM is only an "dimming information", adjusting the constant current module to an lower current, not controlling the led directly, the correct PWM could be everything - even a 30Hz would theoretical not result in flicker (O.K. at that rate the capicitor would do...)As the PWM-dimable GU5.3 are normaly rare and expensive, an other solution would be to use phase controlled dimable bulbs. You need an microcontroller, a 12V AC (or a 110V/230 AC when dimming primary), zero-cross detection, an opto-coupler (esp. if using 115/230V) and a triac. The microcontroller measures the pwm (to know the brighness) and via zerocross-detection and triac it makes the neacassary phase cuts at the correct moment - it simulates a normal wall-dimmer.A zigbee-dimmer using this principle is commercial available for 60€:https://www.isolicht.com/led-streifen/steuerungen/...Someone build something like that years ago, using RS232 and DMX512 instead of zigbee: www.pcdimmer.de. The schematics are a great source for own development.An arduino using PulseIn() to get the brightness would be interesting for many other projects:- dimming brightness with non dimmable lamps: 9 Lamps used, 0% detected: all off. 1-33% detected: 3 on. 34-66% brigtness: 6 on. More than 67%: all on. You simply need zigbee module, arduino nano pro and 3 relais-modules...- big level-indicator: disco app on smartphone/tablet, zigbee module, arduino nano pro controlling an neopixel lightstrip. "brightness" is used to controll how many led on the neopixel will grow (not how bright they are). Using more such level-indicators wil make a complete spectrum-analyser...- invert the colours: one side of the party-room normal, other side inverted colour. May be an interesting effect.I havent enough time to test that now, but maybe someone else get be inspired by this ideas.

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  • I did something similar with Ikea Tradfri bulbs to build lightstrip-controllers. I made an instruction with some pictures, but - sorry - german only. But maybe the pictures and google translate helps: http://www.urban.tk/zigbee_lightstrip-controller....Its very cheap, as a Tradfri GU10 warmwhite costs only 6,99€ incl. VAT and a simple stepdown-converter (1-2€ via ebay) and a mosfet-module (1€ via ebay) will do to control a single-colour lightstrip or 12V halogen. I even tried 12V GU5.3, dimming worked down to 50% but they gave a bad sound (the explicit PWM-dimable ones).As the hue-bridge blocks some functions to products from other manufacturers, like homekit or ambilight, I think about using the controller from defect hue lamps (mostly the power-part or LED are defect and…

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    I did something similar with Ikea Tradfri bulbs to build lightstrip-controllers. I made an instruction with some pictures, but - sorry - german only. But maybe the pictures and google translate helps: http://www.urban.tk/zigbee_lightstrip-controller....Its very cheap, as a Tradfri GU10 warmwhite costs only 6,99€ incl. VAT and a simple stepdown-converter (1-2€ via ebay) and a mosfet-module (1€ via ebay) will do to control a single-colour lightstrip or 12V halogen. I even tried 12V GU5.3, dimming worked down to 50% but they gave a bad sound (the explicit PWM-dimable ones).As the hue-bridge blocks some functions to products from other manufacturers, like homekit or ambilight, I think about using the controller from defect hue lamps (mostly the power-part or LED are defect and not the zigbee-part).Have anyone analysed a Hue E27 color ambiance 2. or 3. gen?

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  • Great project.As nowerdays Tradfri is available I think it would be an improvement to use the zigbee-module from a Tradfri warmwhite GU10 (6,99€) instead of an infrared remote. The Tradfri zigbee module has one PWM output. One pin from Arduino used with PulseIn() should be able to measure the pulselenght and therefore the "brigness" the lamp is set. Completly no pulse = dark -> fully close lamp, permanent on = brightest -> fully opened lamp. And all between.So instead of seperate remote control you can use Zigbee and Hue-Bridge and Szenes and so on.

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  • Hi Razanur,my examples are at http://www.ip-phone-forum.de/showthread.php?t=295676(in German, but as I read in your profile, you are from Hamburg, so that shouldnt be a problem)Fell free to use them as examples in your libraray.The doorbell project is only the first step to a bigger project: an FTZ123D12 interface to connect a speakerphone at the door. The FTZ123D12 consists of an powerless Audio (the normal a/b without AC ring-power or DC power for the telephone), the doorbell-input (or some more doorbell-inputs), a power relais-out for turning the power-amplifier in the doorspeaker on, and a relais for dooropener.The physical Interface is very simple: cut out the line-interface of an old analoge modem. There you get the powerless a/b, an ring-indicator (optocoupler) and a hook-input (el…

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    Hi Razanur,my examples are at http://www.ip-phone-forum.de/showthread.php?t=295676(in German, but as I read in your profile, you are from Hamburg, so that shouldnt be a problem)Fell free to use them as examples in your libraray.The doorbell project is only the first step to a bigger project: an FTZ123D12 interface to connect a speakerphone at the door. The FTZ123D12 consists of an powerless Audio (the normal a/b without AC ring-power or DC power for the telephone), the doorbell-input (or some more doorbell-inputs), a power relais-out for turning the power-amplifier in the doorspeaker on, and a relais for dooropener.The physical Interface is very simple: cut out the line-interface of an old analoge modem. There you get the powerless a/b, an ring-indicator (optocoupler) and a hook-input (electronic relais/optocoupler with relais).So you can connect the FTZ123D12 (for example: Auerswald Dialog 201) to the lineinterface for audio. The ESP-12F controls all relais necassary and also the hook after ringing. The only problem is call-end-detection. Therefore you have to use the callmonitor, which meens all doorcalls have to go externaly (fritzbox doesn´t watch internal calls). So you have to use external numbers to call yourself or a loopback-cable (second fon-Port of the box connected to analoge-in of the DSL/analog/ISDN connector of the box).Opening the door would also be realised by the callmonitor: R000123 - as mankind is seen as to primitive to get access to interstellar telephone networks, "000" always fails. But trying a call to E.T. it is detected by callmonitor, so you can use it for trigger actions (as I discovered 10 years ago with callmonitor-plugin on ds-mod, predecessor of freetz). So for about 8 bucks and some electronic trash you get an FTZ123D12-Fritzbox-Interface. If you have an Siedle 4+n (like TM511, very common in germany), the adapter for an FTZ is about 5-20€ (its only the "Gabelschaltung" with some level-adjustments), so this will work also. The old Telekom/Telegärtner CE-Zweidraht Doorline-Protocoll ist somehow more komplex. It seems to be a "multiplexed" FTZ123D12, where ring opens door and hook (with Impulse-Call for 1-4) meens Door-Ring. I got an old doorline for 6€, so maybe I try an interface at last step. Normaly I would say CE-2Draht is a very simple interface, which is the reason it is integrated in so many telekom-switchboards. Even the Gigaset SX353 has a build-in interface. Its only an other interpretation of normal a/b-signals, so AVM could easily implement it via Firmware. It is so old, no patents protect it. But building is for yourself meens to split a/b and multiplex it again, which is more complicated.Schematics will need a while, as I just ordered some parts from china (optocouplers 20 pcs 1€, 5V to 3,3V voltage converters 5 pcs 1€, ESP-12F for 1,89€/ pcs, all including pakage).As soon as photos and schematics are available, I will contact you. All I produce is under Creative Common Licence, so fell free to use it in any way.

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  • Hello,it is a very nice and usefull project. Most usefull is the library.For example you can trigger the "Wählhilfe" to let a target number ring:String params[][2] = {{"NewX_AVM-DE_PhoneNumber", "**799"}}; String req[][2] = {{}};connection.action("urn:dslforum-org:service:X_VoIP:1", "X_AVM-DE_DialNumber", params, 1, req, 0);In the Phonebook of the Fritz!Box as ShortDial **799 you can define any target. "**9" as target will let all telephones ring, so if you connect the doorbell via optocoupler to the ESP, all your telephones ring. Very nice, if you dont need a voice connection to the door, but only the information, that sombody is at the door.While the Wählhilfe functions very nice, It do not on switching an DECT200. D…

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    Hello,it is a very nice and usefull project. Most usefull is the library.For example you can trigger the "Wählhilfe" to let a target number ring:String params[][2] = {{"NewX_AVM-DE_PhoneNumber", "**799"}}; String req[][2] = {{}};connection.action("urn:dslforum-org:service:X_VoIP:1", "X_AVM-DE_DialNumber", params, 1, req, 0);In the Phonebook of the Fritz!Box as ShortDial **799 you can define any target. "**9" as target will let all telephones ring, so if you connect the doorbell via optocoupler to the ESP, all your telephones ring. Very nice, if you dont need a voice connection to the door, but only the information, that sombody is at the door.While the Wählhilfe functions very nice, It do not on switching an DECT200. Due to documentation i tried following:String params[][2] = {{"NewAIN", "123456789"}, {"NewSwitchState", "TOGGLE"}}; connection.action("urn:dslforum-org:service:X_AVM-DE_Homeauto:1", "SetSwitch", params, 2);Where 123456789 is the AIN seen on Webinterface of the FritzBox. The xml says "NewAIM", the documentaion from AVM said "AIM" as parameter, so I tried both. Neither one worked.It would be so nice to have a simple remote switch für the DECT200.Have you any idea?

    Hello,now the DECT 200 woks fine with your library.The space in the NewAIM is needed.The documentation from AVM (x_homeauto.pdf) is a mess. "X_AVM_DE_Homeauto1" instead of "X_AVM-DE_Homeauto1", "AIM" instead of "NewAIM"... So anyone who ist interested in their own aplications: Allways check the xml´s, dont belive AVM docs.I am very happy about the library; now I can build my own remote controlls for the DECT 200. This is very very usefull: If it is dark, I do not wake up. So my sleepingroom has a DECT 200 for switching the light on by timer the same time, the alarmclock rings. Switching off must be done manually, when leaving the bedroom. And of course, switching on before going to bed and off again before sleeping. Now I can put a remote swit…

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    Hello,now the DECT 200 woks fine with your library.The space in the NewAIM is needed.The documentation from AVM (x_homeauto.pdf) is a mess. "X_AVM_DE_Homeauto1" instead of "X_AVM-DE_Homeauto1", "AIM" instead of "NewAIM"... So anyone who ist interested in their own aplications: Allways check the xml´s, dont belive AVM docs.I am very happy about the library; now I can build my own remote controlls for the DECT 200. This is very very usefull: If it is dark, I do not wake up. So my sleepingroom has a DECT 200 for switching the light on by timer the same time, the alarmclock rings. Switching off must be done manually, when leaving the bedroom. And of course, switching on before going to bed and off again before sleeping. Now I can put a remote switch at the door off my bedroom and a switch beside my bed. Perfect!

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