author

PaulB329

2
Inbox View Profile
9Comments

Tell us about yourself!

  • Card Woven Ukelele Strap

    I think a good compromise is to make the holes on a square format (equal distance) but keep the outside shape a rectangle so you can track where you are.maybe also some signaling nicks in the edges so you can know which side is up without having to see the faces.

    I think the border could look cool with the chevrons going up for 4 and down for 4 (that the two sides have different samples of the middle is nice) Very cool design on your part there.I wonder sometimes (in a "I should test this some day"): 1) would a fishing swivel at the end of each card's warp threads remove the need to roll back?2) how does all of this interact with the twist of the yarns (or the weave of cords?)I know there is some fairly high level theory around this. I just have not dug into it.

    View Instructable »
  • Card Woven Ukelele Strap

    readers should click on the pattern (to see just that image) because the left side of the grid shows the ABCD assignments... not visible when scrolling through the 'structable.(nicely done.) I wonder if making the holes a Square rather than a rectangle would make working easier? my (long ago) attempts used a stout square tablet set and that allowed for good, consistent tension. I was wrestling with rough yarn so maybe needed the help more than you do with this material.

    Regarding the outside sets of cards that keep rolling forward: I thought we had to conserve the twist to not get bound up and that they'd have to unwind on some schedule to keep from having the growing twist (on the far side of the warp) back us up...

    View Instructable »
  • if you are talking about this: F8ZL7YGJCAUONLZ.MEDIUM.jpgit is the "gate latch" which is a very regular bit of gate hardware you can get at most hardware stores here is an image of it without the rest of the project around it: https://www.locks4gates.com/heavy-duty-universal-...(it does not support weight) As you can better see in the store picture, the rod bit swings into the mouth of the bent part and a pawl grabs it as it goes in. Note: The pivot of the rod with the ball is important. It needs to be free to ride up the ramp of the catch. That screw can come loose so pay attention to it.

    View Instructable »
  • PaulB329 commented on nickd561's instructable All in One Work Bench

    maybe three wheels with simple mounts and a fourth one with some up and down adjustability. That way you have support under all the corners.

    View Instructable »
  • Neat.I have some suggestions, for those attempting this, to consider: rivets for the hinge attachmentsmoving hinges up and down alternately for a flatter stack (would need experimentation - cardboard is your friend)alternately integrating the hinges into the walls (some fancy work required, i know but if you weld, then replacing part of the wall with the hinge plate would accomplish this)giving the removable hinge pin(s) leashes (hate to have extra fiddly bits to track)adding a "binding" trim around that grill so it does not snag other gear.If the penny stove is part of the plan then consider bending the walls such that, when they are stacked/packed, they can contain/protect the stove(s) in transit. Less flat but the penny stoves have to go somewhere and having the sides create …

    see more »

    Neat.I have some suggestions, for those attempting this, to consider: rivets for the hinge attachmentsmoving hinges up and down alternately for a flatter stack (would need experimentation - cardboard is your friend)alternately integrating the hinges into the walls (some fancy work required, i know but if you weld, then replacing part of the wall with the hinge plate would accomplish this)giving the removable hinge pin(s) leashes (hate to have extra fiddly bits to track)adding a "binding" trim around that grill so it does not snag other gear.If the penny stove is part of the plan then consider bending the walls such that, when they are stacked/packed, they can contain/protect the stove(s) in transit. Less flat but the penny stoves have to go somewhere and having the sides create a box for them would give them that place. The other advantage of a bend in the walls is the contact points on a pot would be farther apart. The stability of three feet below, but the security of more, wider contacts up toward the circle of the pot

    I had not thought about the vapors from an alcohol stove and their food safeness. Interesting. I'll look into that (I'll see, but it seems _likely_ to be safe to use everclear - the pure drinkable alcohol.)

    View Instructable »