Pernickety Jon

This is a beautiful combination of form and functionality. Well done!Do you know if standard hard drives (not the SSD type) need to be horizontal? My lazy interpretation of your idea is to mount my PC tower on its side under the desk. Would that work? (I'm assuming that the DVD drive needs to be horizontal but that could be sorted by using an external DVD drive.)

Me too; computers are made back-to-front as far as I'm concerned. I'm starting to think some sort of rack on drawer runners hung underneath the desk might be feasible. Sadly, I don't have room for the drawer idea (which is excellent!)

I know nothing about 3D printing...Is the printed material heavy for it's size? For example, like clay or like expanded polystyrene foam?Could the tower be printed as a hollow cylinder? (To save on the printing material.)Would it be possible to make the printing 'cuts' across structural lines like the top of the brick foundation, or the line at the top of the arched buttresses (or both)? You've given yourself a really hard task to recreate the stonework across the glue-line where the model has been separated.Like I said, I know nothing about 3D printing.

"If I should die, think only this of me: That there's some corner of a foreign fieldThat is for ever England."('The Soldier'by Rupert Brooke, 1887 - 1915)You could have called this article, 'How to Turn a Model of a Metal Box Into a Compelling Drama'!

I've seen the technique used by jewelers to create flat faces so rings can be soldered but never imagined that it could be done with a cutting wheel on such large surfaces. He must have nerves of steel!

The wood finish looks really good. I use oil (Tung) on my home floors as we're not keen on the polished look. I'm going to try out some candle wax on old furniture. I'm glad you mentioned the dark wood returning to its lighter tone; maybe the wax allows the sun to bleach the wood while the wax continues to protect it from water?

Great looking product - you have my vote.You were brave painting the black paint onto the page edges; I would have thought the paint would 'glue' all the pages together like the spine! The painted edges give it an extra 'style'. Good idea.

I've never seen a rotary sharpening stone or the angle-measuring gadget before. This was an "oh, so that's how they do it moment!". It seems a very different beast from the standard 'angle grinder'. The leather 'strop' was another revelation - so the paste in the yellow tube was some kind of polish or grinding substance? Just to confirm; the blade edge is pulled along the leather - opposite from the direction on a sharpening stone? Do you think a strop would work for kitchen knives?

Wow - awesome work.I don't 'get' some of your steps either but thanks for sharing. (Very good photography as well.)

The bracelets look great - organic-metallic!When you make the 'pillow' in step two, are you trying to make an airtight seal?You mentioned a, "salt, vinegar and ammonia patina". What are the proportions for those ingredients? Is the bracelet soaked in the solution? Does it need to be hot etc?Does the patina need to be sealed in order to last? I'm thinking of incorporating the effect into wooden sculptures so I'd want the metal to retain the appearance.Thanks for the information - and some of the best photos I've seen on the site.

Ha ha - that's good. (Just in case you really want to know... "Tung oil or China wood oil is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii)." )From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I've heard of that idea. Have you noticed any undesirable interaction of the paints or 'mediums' with the baby oil residue left in the bristles? (It certainly smells better than turpentine.)

Good instructions and visuals. I'm guessing that a S.A.S.E. is a self addressed stamped envelope? What is a ''hero card''?

Interesting. The 'block board' developed from people trying to make their weatherboard houses a bit fancier by imitating stone work. Now you are imitating the imitation - or 'retro retro'!

Great image - like a flock of cute little Santa's Elves! I wish I had done this when my kids were little.

Where's the tutorial? The teeth look really awful. Great job!

Did you paint the badges afterwards? The rough, er... 'metallic' effect looks good. I don't know much about 3D printing; is it expensive? I was wondering why you didn't just print each badge in black plastic.

Looks like someone escaped from Ramsay Bolton! Very clever.

I can't even spell atlat...l?

Am I the only person who can't use an atal? How does one get the arrow/dart/spear to go anywhere near where it is intended? If I was a caveman I'd starve! (Though the rest of the tribe would get a few laughs out of me trying.)

Fantastic idea (and ideas)! Having a community that adds ideas and suggestions is gold. I'm going to try this out.

Your product is a work of art! I'm already thinking of ideas - the exposed electrical conduit for a start. Even the PVC bows in other Instructables. Your use of the wire is genius.

Great idea.

Great 'ibil' thanks. Just in case anyone is still following these comments, I saw a YT video a while back where a guy attached a 'C' shaped length of PVC pipe to the front of his PVC bow - said it worked well. (I'll try adding a picture of the concept to this comment.)I have zero experience in archery but other readers might have experience for this idea. Either way, I'm motivated to try making my own PVC 'Legolas' bow.

Nice work. I've been thinking about doing this for a while. When twisting the grass together, do you overlap the individual blades? That step has always eluded me.

All the above praise and fantastic photos as well.

Wow, really attractive product - the shapes remind me of fractal images. Nice contrast between angular stones and curvy wire shapes. Good instructions as well. Does your wire oxidise after a while? I tried silver plated wire years ago and it quickly turned black. How would you polish your pieces without getting the polish on the stones? Maybe my wire was just poor quality.

Really nice result. The gauze adds another dimension (no pun intended) to the paper mache. A little tip if you don't mind... if you tear the newspaper, instead of cutting it, the layers will be much smoother. (Though it doesn't matter here because you add the paper 'paste' over the top.)

This is one of the best representations of bone/skull that I've seen on Instructibles - maybe even the Internet. Bravo!

Shrink wrap cord? I'm gonna have to try this one.

This is a remarkable 'ible'. I want to try this just to get 'a feel'for how things were done in earlier times. (How did people work out these methods hundreds or thousands of years ago?)

Very good, especially the ageing; the rust especially so.How did you heat the foam early in the project - the heat gun again?The 'neck thingy' is a 'Gorget'; originally a piece of armour to protect the throat and neck. It's use later diminished to ornamentation. Has lately returned to increasing use on police/military armour and Fallout LAPD riot vests.

Stylish!

Very nice!