Apologies for the delay, I didn't notice the question come in.The two red and two blacks are there as this was my second board for the 2 player game.You are correct, one red and one black goes to the 12v power supply via a female jack connector. This plugs directly into the 12v power supply.The second set goes to a male jack connector which plugs directly into the other board (via a female jack connector). This was done so I only needed a single 12v power adapter to power both players games LEDs. You do need a 9v Arduino power supply to power the Arduino (which controls both games).Hope this helps.
Have you downloaded the HCMAX7219 libraries detailed in Step 7? Once downloaded I believe I may have copied the files to the same directory as the sketch (hence the double quotes around the "HCMAX7219.h" rather than <HCMAX7219.h>).The error is stating that it cannot find the file HCMAX7219.h, so this is probably the problem.Hope that helps
Apologies, I didn't see this question come in. I will try and adapt the 1 player game for you and post it soon.As for the Neo Pixel LED ring, I believe this is possible. I am playing with Neo Pixels for my latest project (driven with an Arduino), and can change colours randomly for that. The biggest issue I suspect will be embedding the neo pixels in the switches, as (mine at least) don't give any room for threading the 3 wires through. However I have spotted a mod for the switches on Thingiverse that could be used:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1952690It does require a 3D printer though.
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I borrowed some ideas from pictures I saw on the internet, but if you read AlexF270's comment below you can buy his. I believe his is the inspiration I used!
I did look at several pictures on Google Image search for inspiration, and looking at your Etsy shop, I'm pretty sure yours was the main inspiration I used.I hope this Instructable will raise the profile of your shop for those who would like to buy rather than make.I apologise for any offence caused.
I'm not entirely sure what a pellet gun fires. I suspect these fire small metal pellets. The wood I have used is pine, so is very soft, and the targets are 3mm ply, so I suspect a pellet would shoot straight through those. If you added a backing on both of a thin steel plate It would work OK I believe.eBay has plywood ducks, so I was very close to using those instead of the targets, but the lead time of those was longer than my required end date!
That would work.If you added a small weight to the bottom of the target, you can position the pivot point of the target at about halfway and the target could (in theory) spin. When looking around for the project I saw someone had used a straw, glued horizontally to the back of the target. You could have the doweling running across at a similar height instead of the 'shelves' that has the targets on. it would cut down the work significantly.When shot, the target could spin, and the weight would leave it back in the 'start' position.Let me know if you build it like this. I would be interested in seeing it!
Thank you, that is very kind! :-)
I *may* have made a mistake. While investigating your question (always double check your working!) I realised there are only 6 analog pins on an Uno. I have been working a lot with Arduino Nano's (next Instructable!) that have 8 analog pins, so I was thinking you could use same digital pins (02 to 09), and then include the additional 8 analog pins.I say *may* be wrong as if you don't use the DEBUG with Serial.begin(9600), and turn off debug, I believe you can use the digital pins 01, and 12, along with the analog pins A0 to A5.https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/BoardApologies for this. I may remove the suggestion of the Uno as I use the DEBUG a LOT and wouldn't want to work with that turned off!
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I have added the code for the 2 player games (you need the second board). This code has been refactored significantly and removes a couple of the problems I had with the code.The original code would return to the main loop when it detected the first button press (it checks in order). That meant that it was possible to lock out the other buttons or the second player by holding down a button. Now it builds a bit pattern of the buttons, giving both players a better chance of scoring, and removes the possibility of player 1 locking out player two by 'spamming' the buttons.The 2 player code can be used with a single board, but I would comment out the 'menu options' for the 2 player games in the main loop.
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