RobertC2

Case is nice!

Heatsinks are often made of aluminium and are very easy to cut with a hacksaw or a rotary cutting wheel device like a Dremel. But, like the man said, the dimensions are not all that critical. Use what you have and make it close if you can. It should work fine. ;-)

There are two wires coming out of Pelletier device -- One is red, that is the positive voltage. Run wires directly to fan motor. Red wire goes to +.Congrats, you are done!Now do you really need a video for that?! ;-)

I like how you went kinda nuts with the springs! ;-)

LOL, that was brilliant!

Try getting motors from old printers... they are often very powerful for their size and they may already be attached to gears, and other mechanisms that you can use.

Very cool design!

Wow! ...Just, wow!With absolutely no intention of building one, I nevertheless read most of this instructable. I have to say it was fascinating to see your creativity at work. Not only was it well written, it was quite amusing. The "instant dreadlocks" was my favorite, I do hope you were kidding! I particularly appreciated the fact that you had no fancy tools, Arduino, laser cutter, or 3D printer! -- You worked with what was available, without following any instructions. You made a functional piece of art from junk. Impressive, indeed!Thank you very much for the time it took to share your journey with us!

Sand in the frying pan! -- I'm definitely trying that! Thanks!

Done. :-)

What are you talking about? You are misinterpreting the comment as negative and going off for no reason at all. Who's a troll?! Or a schmuck?! Name calling, really? What happened to "if you haven't anything good to say, don't say anything at all"?Anders644PI is a big boy, he can defend himself. If he was offended, I trust he would have said so. As for your evaluation of the work, I totally agree... However, you are way off if you think you have a case against my intentions. It was a suggestion that he make his title fit the project. There was no disrespect intended in our comments. In fact, I only chimed in because the author's response to the initial advice from another user was not really addressing the problem; as if he was too close to the project to see why the title ...

What are you talking about? You are misinterpreting the comment as negative and going off for no reason at all. Who's a troll?! Or a schmuck?! Name calling, really? What happened to "if you haven't anything good to say, don't say anything at all"?Anders644PI is a big boy, he can defend himself. If he was offended, I trust he would have said so. As for your evaluation of the work, I totally agree... However, you are way off if you think you have a case against my intentions. It was a suggestion that he make his title fit the project. There was no disrespect intended in our comments. In fact, I only chimed in because the author's response to the initial advice from another user was not really addressing the problem; as if he was too close to the project to see why the title was actually wrong. So I wanted him to take another look. By being specific about the error, I figured he'd get it. We simply want other users to be able to FIND the instructable without getting upset when they realize that the title mislead them to something that is NOT a TV. Fine, let it get lost in the shuffle... But, seriously, this guide is way too well done to be lost!As for making my own instructables, how is that a necessary step to posting comments? Some of us are here to get ideas, but are not necessarily ready to post anything. I have taken ideas from many sources and made my own projects better because of it. I checked your page: ONE instructable... And a winner no less! Bravo! So, should you be restricted to commenting only on making bread? Of course not. Anyway, I will thank you to concern yourself with my comments when they are inaccurate. Otherwise, kindly refrain from inventing your own motivations for what others say or do. I am neither jealous nor am I a troll, or a schmuck. Just evaluating as honestly and clearly as I can. Sure I could have been a little more delicate with my opinion on the aesthetics of his "TV" design, but a little sarcasm never hurt anyone... But, as the author will receive this comment too, I will take this opportunity to apologize for any perceived insult. [ Anders644PI, I'm sorry if you were offended by my comment. ]But still, I stand by its content. The title is (still) badly worded, and the 'TV-look', although a good idea, is lacking enough detail to make it a total success. Everything else looks brilliant! ...Now go make some bread or something! ;-)

Makes me wanna get drunk just so I can justify having one tomorrow!

Sorry, dude, but fly_boy is right. Your title says "...retro looking TV..." which, in English, means that it is a TV that is retro-looking. As awkward as it sounds, you want to say it's a portable (dunno 'bout pocket-sized) touchscreen game pad that happens to look like a retro TV (except for the no knobs thing and the big ugly wire coming out the top).Just change the title. :-)

There is only ONE connector that is used for Input when charging, and Output when powering something. No need for 2 connections since the pack is not meant to be used and charged at the same time.

Wires were not used for those connections... The ends from the longer nickel strips that protrude past the edge of the battery pack are soldered directly to the board. That is why mounting the board where it is was such a genius idea!

Nice!One question: What is the 4th 18650 cell used for? Parts list says 4, text says 4, pics show 3...

Brilliant video! Thank you!

No, you cannot. Microwave ovens work by exciting water molecules within the thing being 'heated'... there is practically no moisture inside HDPE and therefore it will not melt from any heat produced within it.

Yes! That's exactly what I thought too! That 1974 film was was so weird and wonderful... think Sean Connery in red and black S&M gear falling for the beautiful Charlotte Rampling in hippies and crystals future distopia. Good fun! Lol

Sorry, I disagree. I know it would seem to be an obvious assumption, but it would be a huge exaggeration. It's a matter of scale...The screw's residual magnetic field is too weak to have any effect on a computer. Away from the magnet, it's barely strong enough for the screws to cling to each other! You could safely rest half a dozen of those screws on top of your hard drive and it would do absolutely nothing measurable. Been using a magnetic container for laptop screws for years with zero havoc. In fact, there are electronics repair mats that have built-in magnets for exactly that purpose. So, unless you're rubbing a hard drive with a huge magnet, like what you'd find in a microwave, then you're fine.

Compared to what's going on inside the motor, a little magnet on the outside is irrelevant.

Good one! Did the same for the long window in my metal door.

You will need to mount the sensor on the mic stand under the mic, aiming toward the person talking, and use a 5V relay to interrupt the mic's wiring. You will need to cut an extra mic cable to do this, preferably a short one. If your mic uses XLR (3 pin) connectors, look up how they work to be sure you wire it right.

I must admit, I have little interest in building this. But I just had to see how a Metal Detector could be referred to as being "Eco Friendly"! Now I know.Very well structured instructable! Cheers!

A slightly alarmist statement... There is zero heavy-metal poisoning. The metals in solder cannot become gaseous at that temperature. All the fumes from soldering are from the flux. Not healthy, but certainly NOT heavy-metal poison. A well placed fan is sufficient if working outside.

Thanks, I'll be trying some of these.Small correction:At the end of step 1, a "Viola!" is a stringed musical instrument larger than a violin, but smaller than a cello. I believe you meant to say: Voilà!Which is French for "See There" or, more appropriately, "There ya go!" (or, "Ta-Da!") ;-)

"Epoxy generally survives high temperatures well, and it bonds strong."I fixed a cracked car radiator with epoxy, years ago. It lasted an extra 6 months!

Looks like an antique tool from the 40's... it might have come from my grandfather's jewelry shop! Beautiful work!

Flange... Home Depot ($13.98) ?????14 bucks for a little metal flange? That's insane! Yeah, no! I woulda used a piece of 2 by 4. Not as nice, but for fourteen bucks you can buy a few more Helping Hands sets and build one with multiple bases. 14 bucks for a flange... Ha!

Very nice! Love the case!Small corrections needed in Step 2, In this paragraph, there are errors. Not in the math, but in the Volt and Amp symbols used in the equations."We need to load the 5V rail with 10W total, so we need to find the correct resistance. for that we need to find the amperage of the resistor. that we can do by rearrange the P=U*I so well get I=P/U which gives us I=10/5A=2AThen we can find R with rearranging the U=I*R formula, so we get R=U/I=5/2Ohm=2.5Ohm."--> Should be: I = 10W / 5V = 2A, and R = 5V / 2A = 2.5 OhmsCheers!

You mean 58.5(65W x 0.90 = 58.5, not 68.5)

Brilliant upgrade! *(adds corner clamp to shopping list)

"...I then impressed the wooden panel with small holes by pressing the post against it." So simple, and so brilliant! I've already built more helping hands than I need... but I still like reading these because of this low-tech, common-sense kind of stuff. Thanbks for sharing!

Try springs from Clothes Pins, Mouse Traps, or even small Chip Bag Clamps.

Try springs from Clothes Pins, Mouse Traps, or even small Chip Bag Clamps.

Nice looking project! I believe you quoted this from a dubious source.: "Lead is used in the soldering process in the form of lead/silver filler metals. When heated, lead oxide fumes are formed. Excessive exposure to lead oxide fumes can result in lead poisoning. Symptoms include loss of appetite, indigestion, nausea, vomiting, constipation, headache, abdominal cramps, nervousness, and insomnia. Lead is absorbed through the mucous membranes of the lung, stomach, or intestines and then enters the bloodstream"--> The temperatures used in soldering are not sufficient to vaporize lead. There is ZERO lead in soldering fumes. Still harmful, but no lead.

You are being overly alarmist.Lead does NOT vaporize at those temperatures. Therefore there is ZERO lead in the fumes. They are ALL from the flux. Still harmful but no lead. As long as the fumes are forcefully directed away from the face, his setup is perfectly fine for hobbyists in reasonably ventilated rooms.

Yeah, but they often have something more useful, a second 12V rail!

Good question, chargerR!It depends on your PSU. Everything you need to know is on that label...Important: You cannot have all rails at max current. The label has the wattage, too. That and the voltages you will be using at any given time will let you calculate what you can expect from the unit you have.

Hi Gelfling6,All good, just a little friendly nitpicking... You already know this stuff but others may not be so experienced. #2. The black wires are not really GND. Ground is the chassis, through the thicker green wire on the MAINS connector. In the interest of clarity, I recommend using 0V or Black Wire when referring to it. #2A. I have read many instructables that say the load need only be on the rail with the highest current limit. No harm in using it on both, but if the maker has only one, he doesn't need to put off building this to wait for snail-mail from China. ;-)Cheers!

Nice warning labels! One silly question: Why waste paint on the whole cover when doing just the top would be sufficient to apply those stencils?

pfred2, that's quite a magnifier you've got there! You must be doing surface-mount repairs by hand! Nice!I like the suspended platform, looks pretty versatile. Nice tool!

Ah, man! Now I wanna paint mine blue! Loved how simple it was!.I've used one of those lamp arms for a fume extractor fan, but never thought of using it for a third hand. That was inspired!Gotta get some of that plastic, looks like fun.

oops... lets try that again...

Many voltage combinations are possible. This was the face plate design for the one I made 2 yrs ago. At the top right of the photo you will find a list, and a very important notice about current rating. The current limit for combined voltages is the lowest of the two rails used.

SiDawg, I believe part of your question was left unanswered.The last part about TWO (2) pairs of +/- red/black 12v wires... I think you were asking about 2 separate rails of 12v wires... the colors you mentioned were confusing given that in this device the 12v rails are yellow. One is Yellow and the other is Yellow w/a Black stripe (2nd 12v rail only on modern PSUs).The answer is no, you cannot use those two 12v rails together to make 24v because they share the same black wire. So, if you try what you said, it would simply short out one of the rails, in which case the rail is shut down and you will never get your 24v by using these rails in series. Sadly, using +12v(yellow) and -12v(blue), typically, will give you only about one amp... Theoretically, there is another way to get 24v at a...

SiDawg, I believe part of your question was left unanswered.The last part about TWO (2) pairs of +/- red/black 12v wires... I think you were asking about 2 separate rails of 12v wires... the colors you mentioned were confusing given that in this device the 12v rails are yellow. One is Yellow and the other is Yellow w/a Black stripe (2nd 12v rail only on modern PSUs).The answer is no, you cannot use those two 12v rails together to make 24v because they share the same black wire. So, if you try what you said, it would simply short out one of the rails, in which case the rail is shut down and you will never get your 24v by using these rails in series. Sadly, using +12v(yellow) and -12v(blue), typically, will give you only about one amp... Theoretically, there is another way to get 24v at a reasonable current by combining those two 12v rails in parallel and feeding them into a boost converter. Because they are in parallel, they combine their current rating, and although some of that is lost in the step-up process of the boost converter, you are still getting reasonable current if the boost converter is rated for high amperage. Of course those are expensive...Alternatively, a cheaper solution is to just buy a 24v supply and get on with your life. ;-)

Look at it this way: Your instinct took over and wanted to prevent a law suit... Nobody can sue you for a Tic TaK! ;-)

Method 5: Wire-nuts + a little tape. If it's good enough for all the lamps and lighting fixtures in your house, it's probably good enough for most projects.Besides, who the hell is gonna be pulling on my wires?!

Laptop Power Bank using extra power-tool batteries, without modifying the batteries so they can still power your tools. I love it when things are re-purposed smartly. Particularly when the thing can still be used for its original purpose if needed. Bravo! Note: If your laptop's charger uses the very common 5.5mm (OD) x 2.1mm (ID) DC plug, as mine does, you can avoid destroying that extra charger. Just use the wire from a same-sized generic wall charger. Test carefully for polarity.

I had no idea why I was saving all those old, dull razors... now I know!

All it needs now it a sound module... ;-)Hears sound of TARDIS materializing in another room... Runs in slightly after the sound has stopped. Sees micro TARDIS, still blinking... Mind blown! ;-)

LOL, when I saw the pic of your thumbs up in front of the 2x4, which had part of the Canadian Maple Leaf symbol on it, I was sure you were making a political statement to Trump bitching about our Soft Wood Lumber! Then I saw the date this was posted... Still, I got a good laugh. ;-)Excellent work!

Love those little single cell power banks! Very useful for parts!I made a powered speaker for my sister that uses those as swap-able drop-in power modules with no modification! One bank is powering the speaker, while the other bank is charging elsewhere from a smartphone charger. Or, you can take several pre-charged power banks with you for outdoor parties...

Very nice! Looks great!--> The DC to DC converter is a BOOST or STEP-UP converter. Not a buck or step-down converter.

Wow! Great instructable!You write these for a living, right? No? ...well, you should! ;-)

One of the most enjoyable posts I've read! The many photos of different setups and the detailed explanation of how and why to use them was brilliantly done! I'm glad I happened upon this one... You might consider posting this in the electronics section as well. I'm sure some of your methods would be well received by that crowd as well. Thank you!

Very nice!

Yes, there are at least three (3.5V, 5V, 12V) in most ATX power supplies.

Well done!

Brilliant solution - Redneck execution. LOL

Brilliant!

Perhaps you could ask the person at the store to give you the exact part number for that LCD... Or maybe that person could do an instructable. After all, it seems to be his/her design anyway!

Huh?_Oh, my doubts about outdated numbers was aimed at Sarah86, not your 2% statistic about the towers. I agree with you. ?

Those are Analog numbers... Way more now since digital. You read an old article about cell towers maybe?

Enclosure it VERY nice!

LOL! .