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  • RolandC31 commented on MikeTheMaker's instructable Clogged MakerBot Nozzle1 year ago
    Clogged MakerBot Nozzle

    Did It! I was able to remove the nozzle when it was cool. I used a 7mm socket with a ratchet. There was a little plastic tube that guides the filament into the nozzle. This tube was gunked up inside, not the nozzle itself. Was easy to clean with the smallest hex wrench that came with my creator. I was quite surprised to find this plastic tube sticking inside the upper wide whole of the nozzle. Must be made from some very heat resistant material.Thanks for the instructions!

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  • RolandC31 followed electric-vehicles, reuse, home-improvement, apple and 13 others channel 2 years ago
  • RolandC31 made the instructable Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)2 years ago
    Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)

    Josehf,I didi it.The LCD works. I had looked over your instructable again, and swapped some wires again. And magically it showed "Hello World!". Here is the Pinout and how it is connected to the ARDUINO:1. Ground Arduino GND2. VCC (+5V) Arduino +5V3. Register Select (RS) Arduino Pin124. Read/Write (R/W). Arduino GND5. Clock (Enable). Arduino Pin116. Bit 0 Arduino Pin57. Bit 1 Arduino Pin48. Bit 2 Arduino Pin39. Bit 3 Arduino Pin210.Backlight Anode (+4V) Arduino GND via 100 Ohm ResistorHere is a picture of the working LCD. Josehf, thanks for your instructables and thanks for your...

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    Josehf,I didi it.The LCD works. I had looked over your instructable again, and swapped some wires again. And magically it showed "Hello World!". Here is the Pinout and how it is connected to the ARDUINO:1. Ground Arduino GND2. VCC (+5V) Arduino +5V3. Register Select (RS) Arduino Pin124. Read/Write (R/W). Arduino GND5. Clock (Enable). Arduino Pin116. Bit 0 Arduino Pin57. Bit 1 Arduino Pin48. Bit 2 Arduino Pin39. Bit 3 Arduino Pin210.Backlight Anode (+4V) Arduino GND via 100 Ohm ResistorHere is a picture of the working LCD. Josehf, thanks for your instructables and thanks for your replies.I am really happy about this and will salvage many more good working devices from going into the landfill.RegardsRoland

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  • Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)

    Josehf,Thanks for your response. What kind of "other LCD driver" do you have in mind? A different library for the Arduino?I am still not able to figure out the correct pin assignments.I believe now, that there is no (VO Contrast Adjustment)-Pin. The display turns on with a good contrast setting, when I just connect pin 1 (GND) and Pin 2 (+5V).In the previous wiring setup (as described above) the display changed its cursor and character behavior, when I changed the Pot-setting on PIN 3, not the display contrast. So, that PIN must have a different purpose. (RS maybe?)Right now I am using a kind of a "probe" setup, where I put power to the LCD pins 1 and 2 and then read the digital output of PINs 3-9 with the Arduino. I am hoping to be able to identify some PIN by their...

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    Josehf,Thanks for your response. What kind of "other LCD driver" do you have in mind? A different library for the Arduino?I am still not able to figure out the correct pin assignments.I believe now, that there is no (VO Contrast Adjustment)-Pin. The display turns on with a good contrast setting, when I just connect pin 1 (GND) and Pin 2 (+5V).In the previous wiring setup (as described above) the display changed its cursor and character behavior, when I changed the Pot-setting on PIN 3, not the display contrast. So, that PIN must have a different purpose. (RS maybe?)Right now I am using a kind of a "probe" setup, where I put power to the LCD pins 1 and 2 and then read the digital output of PINs 3-9 with the Arduino. I am hoping to be able to identify some PIN by their output behavior.I use a PULLUP on PIN 3-9 before I apply power to the LCD.All PINS indicate HIGH, except for PIN7, which indicates LOW, no matter what time delay after the Power-Up is set to. I have tried time delays for the readout from 100 to 700 milliseconds.Do you have any idea if that could hint towards a special purpose of that PIN. R/W maybe?Or is there a chance that this is a I2C display and I am heading into the completely wrong direction?Thanks for any help in advance,Roland

    Josehf,I read your instructable about reverse engineering and came up with a brilliant idea (at least I think it is :)I connected the LCD to the original logic board, where it originally was attached to. It works! It came out of a CriCut digital cutting machine. Kind of a little CNC machine. I just have to circumnavigate a bad 18V power relay which caused the pre-mature death of that CriCut machine and can power up the board.Would it be helpful to measure the output pins from that board GOING to the LCD in order to find out what function each pin might have?It starts up with a fixed display routine when it initializes that logic board.It comes up with a serial number or so, a software version number, the name of the machine, and so on.Could I read the values of those pins when I connect...

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    Josehf,I read your instructable about reverse engineering and came up with a brilliant idea (at least I think it is :)I connected the LCD to the original logic board, where it originally was attached to. It works! It came out of a CriCut digital cutting machine. Kind of a little CNC machine. I just have to circumnavigate a bad 18V power relay which caused the pre-mature death of that CriCut machine and can power up the board.Would it be helpful to measure the output pins from that board GOING to the LCD in order to find out what function each pin might have?It starts up with a fixed display routine when it initializes that logic board.It comes up with a serial number or so, a software version number, the name of the machine, and so on.Could I read the values of those pins when I connect the board GND to ARDUINO GND in order to have a common GND?Then read all pins either digital or analog.Either with or without the LCD connected I would get values, right?I would write a sketch, which runs in the loop and reads each PIN value every 10ms or so during the startup sequence.Would that be a way to go?I don´t want to fry any of those pieces, so I might need some guidance, that I don´t accidentally put 2x 5V in series and create an over voltage on any of those pins. I am dealing with 2 power supplies now. The CriCut board has a USD port. Could I use that to link the ARDUINO to that board in order to get the same electrical potential and still have a connection to my computer? Maybe via a USB hub?Any thoughts welcome.Thanks,Roland

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  • Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)

    Josehf, thanks a lot for your quick response,you are right, the board is a Mega. But I just received an UNO in the mail and switched the boards.Also I changed the code to pins 2-5 and 11,12.Now everything is exactly as on your instructable.The LCD is definitely a 16x1 10 Pin unit. I upload a closeup picture for you.I can tell it to set the cursor and to have it blinking.I can set the cursor to both sides on any spot, turn on blinking, clear the display, turn display on and off. So, the communication between the Arduino and the LCD obviously works.But I can not have any characters written with the "Print" or "Write" command.I use the Liquid Chrystal library 1.4Roland

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  • RolandC31 made the instructable Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)2 years ago
    Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)

    Hello Josehf,I just got an Arduino starter kit for Christmas and see old electronic parts with different eyes now. I have followed your intstructable - which is just awesome BTW - in order to recycle a 16x1 10pin LCD that I salvaged from a CRICUT electronic cutting machine. The display appears to be a generic unit with UM1601-A1 printed on the back side. The pins are just labeled 1-10. No success googling any Data sheet or other info.It took me a while to figure out the Pin assignments:1 GND2 VCC 5V3 Contrast VO4 RS Arduino Pin 125 E Arduino Pin 116-9 DATA Arduino Pins 10-710 Background lightNo R/W pin. That is what I conclude.About pins 4-9 I am not 100% confident, but that is my best guess.I used...

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    Hello Josehf,I just got an Arduino starter kit for Christmas and see old electronic parts with different eyes now. I have followed your intstructable - which is just awesome BTW - in order to recycle a 16x1 10pin LCD that I salvaged from a CRICUT electronic cutting machine. The display appears to be a generic unit with UM1601-A1 printed on the back side. The pins are just labeled 1-10. No success googling any Data sheet or other info.It took me a while to figure out the Pin assignments:1 GND2 VCC 5V3 Contrast VO4 RS Arduino Pin 125 E Arduino Pin 116-9 DATA Arduino Pins 10-710 Background lightNo R/W pin. That is what I conclude.About pins 4-9 I am not 100% confident, but that is my best guess.I used your Arduino code for the 10pin LCD but had to modify it a little bit in order to get something happening. (I use Pins 12 - 7 on my Arduino)But all I got so far is the cursor blinking.The lcd.print commands are not doing anything.No "Hello World" and no individual characters that I programmed into certain slots.I can set the cursor to a certain digit, have it blink there and move on to the next.The Clear command works too.Of interest might be, that during my exploration of the pins, I had all kinds of weird characters displayed. Question marks, Japanese signs, distorted letters, individual jumping bits and lines.Also worth noting is, that I have tried an older version of the liquidChrystal library after I read about 4bit and 8bit moving. But I was never really sure, which version was actually used by the Arduino, because all versions use the same name. This is all still new to me.When I pull out one of the 4 Data pins, the Cursor disappears. Blank display.The blinking cursor always has a solid line on the bottom.Any idea what I am doing wrong? Why "Hello World" is not displayed?I add a picture of my test setup.Thanks in advance.RegardsRoland

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