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Definitely! Works inside the table saw for the single nut spanner and a magnetic knife strip works wonders for ring spanners.
Only thing about between inside and outside - on the inside, the magnet needs to be a lot stronger.
Thank you Will. I'll ensure my next instructable is 100%. I also have another instructable stating a 1000% increase in WiFi bandwidth - just in the interest of transparency, that increase was in my situation only and may not represent what everyone else may get.
Too easy mate. Thats the intent of this stream of instructables - workshop hacks that make life easier.
Outstanding. Magical, magical magnets to the rescue again.
One big advantage of this is when the outside is covered in metal shavings/filings, you just take the magnet off and the filings fall away. You don't get filings stuck to the magnet itself. Very handy.
Glad to help. I had these magnets sitting around collecting dust on the front of my workbench then when I got my third drill press (table top version for $20) I dropped the chuck key and it hit and stuck to the magnet. It was my lightbulb moment.
Looks interesting. Similar to something a friend of mime who was studying computer sciences made to help find WiFi networks about 15 years ago. In particular, he wanted to piggy back off the local McDonald's WiFi but it was just out of range. Its overkill for my scenario as I didn't need range. My problem was the steel cladding and I just needed an antenna on the outside of my steel shed.
Top shelf mate. Really nice finish. Watching the video, I was very impressed that you showed your mistakes and the corrective work - this is something that so many videos miss making everything seem a lot more straight forward than it really is.Again, very good. +1 vote from me.
You speak of heresy!
It uses Stray Resonating Neutral Current from a Zero Point Energy harvesting apparatus.
I know that mate, it just didn't sound quite as... 'magical' when I said it. You are right though. Cheers.
I just read back through the instructable and now you pointed it out, I have left out the word 'key' I quite a lot. Hmmm... Oh well.
Yes it does. Very much so! All good. Vote +1 given.
Magic Drill ChuckView Instructable »
I've made similar to this with a magnetic knife bar (Ikea purchase) for my drill bits. Only caveat I'd have - DO NOT put your drill bits, burrs etc on there that you use on metal. They end up magnetised and when drilling (or grinding) metal, the waste can end up sticking to the bit. Gets very, very bloody annoying! Again, great for wood bits, spade bits etc. Also, I like to use some hot glue and stick a piece of metal to the end of my pencils (or any non-magnetic tool) then these stick on too.
Gday lonesolesurfer. Good instructable. Simple. Concise and easy to follow. Nice.Just about your dimmer and its rating. The dimmer can only handle 400VA...VA is Volt Amperes (Volt Amps). Basically this is the amount of load the dimmer can handle IF the load was purely resistive. Like a kettle element or a hot glue gun.Inductive loads like motors (loads that have coils of wire) are a bit more tricky... Only way I know how to explain this is maths... Sorry!VA = Volts × Amps; transposed is,Amps = VA ÷ Volts.For your dimmer:Amps = 400VA ÷ 240Volts = 1.67Amps max load.Remember, that is a purely resistive load. If the load is a motor, the dimmer will only be good for between 80% to maybe 90% of that meaning it could be as low as 1.33Amps (effect called power factor). On the …
Gday lonesolesurfer. Good instructable. Simple. Concise and easy to follow. Nice.Just about your dimmer and its rating. The dimmer can only handle 400VA...VA is Volt Amperes (Volt Amps). Basically this is the amount of load the dimmer can handle IF the load was purely resistive. Like a kettle element or a hot glue gun.Inductive loads like motors (loads that have coils of wire) are a bit more tricky... Only way I know how to explain this is maths... Sorry!VA = Volts × Amps; transposed is,Amps = VA ÷ Volts.For your dimmer:Amps = 400VA ÷ 240Volts = 1.67Amps max load.Remember, that is a purely resistive load. If the load is a motor, the dimmer will only be good for between 80% to maybe 90% of that meaning it could be as low as 1.33Amps (effect called power factor). On the flip side, this is basically how ceiling fan speed controllers work however their motors are usually only rated to 150VA making a 400VA device perfect. This percentage can get worse too depending on motor type and the decreased voltage. Working current could be as low as 50 or 60%.Its also important to know that motors can commonly draw 2 to 3 times (even up to 7 times) their running current at startup. My jointer is rated at 9 Amps and will draw about 45amps when I start it causing my shed lights to dim. One other point, the extension lead is 10 rated meaning someone could run a 2400watt (10 amp) kettle through the dimmer or worse some fool could use it to try and control the output current of their cheap stick welder. All I'm saying is this instructable is great however anyone doing this needs to be aware of the dimmers limit and only use it for application of very low power and it is dependent on the dimmer used. It would work wonders on a soldering iron to drop temp for marking plastics, speed control of a little on/off desktop fan or on a small blower for a DIY coal furnace. Just don't use it on a router, or a table saw or anything like that.I've had an old apprentice of mine try this to give him temperature control on a plug in 25L hot water urn to make an alcohol still. Blew the dimmer up very quickly.Again, the instructable is great - I've just had some experience with mains power and have seen the adverse effects it can have on property and people.
Thanks Nspirit for your comment but a USB port 2.4 meters above the ground in a back yard of suburbia poses an extremely minimal security threat and is very subjective to your area. Also, I had a loot at my local electronics supplier and a WiFi antenna extension cable was a more expensive option.For me; three of my five neighbors don't own computers. WiFi and anything technical falls between sorcery and black art. I do respect your concerns but I just think that it's not something that most people would ever need to worry about.
1000% Wifi Boost in a Steel ShedView Instructable »
Only thing to note (unless I missed it) - Any extension lead should be completely unrolled before use. This is especially true for 'high' power gear like a welder or large compressor. There are several factors that effect the reason why but the easiest one to explain - cables get warm but if their rolled and bunched up the heat cant escape and they burn the insulation.Australian/New Zealand standards (ASNZS 3008.1) state that 4 cables bunched together means the capacity of the cable drops to 64%. This is the same as having 4 turns left on the roll meaning your 10amp lead is now only good for 6.4 amps.
The last owner of mine used a 100mm (4") stormwater downpipe fitting in the centre of the lower wheel cover - this is gloriously useless.I have since put a 90mm downpipe with elbow up the right side of the bottom cover. Works wonderfully but limits the ability to tilt the table. I do not tilt the table very often and have just set it up with wing nuts so for those few cuts I just have no dust extraction. I'll add something in another instructable over the next couple of weeks.
Yeah - I like the instruction manual with mine. That said, It had nothing on servicing the motor's centrifugal switch, what to look for buying second hand and how to get the blade plumb with the guides.It did however have something for the tension but realistically I don't look. You are right to check the manual - I just enjoyed doing this.
Thanks for the comment - Looking back at the image I see how it could be confusing. I'll try and clear it up.The positive probe is indeed touching the connector on the end of the wire - That is because the connector is still connected to one terminal the capacitor. In effect, the red probe is touching both the lug on the end of the wire *and the terminal on the capacitor.The other [black] probe is on the other terminal of the capacitor - granted it is out of sight in the photo. I assure you that I have both probes in contact with the capacitor terminals.One wire needs to be removed to ensure that I do not have a parallel circuit through the run and start windings of the motor.Hope that clears things up.
No worries mate. Have fun with it. I was blown away by how much dust was in the start/stop switch and frankly by the earthing wire not even being bolted on - looking back, I can't see that the earth wire had been on at any point in the last 20 years - bad, bad, not good....
Yeah - I get the 120Volt thing. A 2kW output motor running at around 80% efficiency draws something like 10 amps (off the top of my head). At half the voltage, a 120V rated motor would pull roughly twice the current... makes sense to me anyway.Problem lies with copper loss which is heat in the motor windings developed due to the current 'pushing' through the copper. The heat produced is 'proportional to the change in current squared' so - double the current, quadruple the heat produced.This is in a perfect world though where both motors have the same construction which they obviously won't due to the voltage rating. anyway, enough ranting.
Maintaining a 20 year old bandsawView Instructable »