Samartist

Today is your lucky day MatthewO95... how are you?First thing is that i dont exactly remember how i calibrated the circuit, i had to read the article once again to have good idea about it... Actually it will help me if you upload a working video of your circuit instead of the image... anyways, see what i have got to say to you...1. "when I clap, LED 1 does a short flicker, which I can assume isn't supposed to happen.", its good that you have a flicker at LED1, this means that your circuit works fine till LED1. Now next thing is caliberating LED2, which is very easy, you just tune it till the point where is stops glowing.... It should be off in ideal situation, but it should be at the peak to glow... For example, if the LED2 glows in 0' - 90' degree of the potentiometer (one qu...

Today is your lucky day MatthewO95... how are you?First thing is that i dont exactly remember how i calibrated the circuit, i had to read the article once again to have good idea about it... Actually it will help me if you upload a working video of your circuit instead of the image... anyways, see what i have got to say to you...1. "when I clap, LED 1 does a short flicker, which I can assume isn't supposed to happen.", its good that you have a flicker at LED1, this means that your circuit works fine till LED1. Now next thing is caliberating LED2, which is very easy, you just tune it till the point where is stops glowing.... It should be off in ideal situation, but it should be at the peak to glow... For example, if the LED2 glows in 0' - 90' degree of the potentiometer (one quarter of a circle), and its off in 91' - 180' degree(next quarter), then you should tune it to 91' degree... i.e. closest point when the LED is off...2. i think you should remove the relay, it doesnt help if the clap detection anyway, you can use it later when you want to on or off any appliance..3. its better to make this circuit IC by IC from left to right, i.e. first make the transistor part on the board, then caliberate it, then add the LM358, then caliberate it and so on...

you can easily convert this circuit into two clapper design by changing the output and resets of the last IC 4017

here is the solution, you can add an AND gate and an extra water level sensor module to implement that functionality....

ok, para hacer un diseño como el mío, necesitas ver tutoriales sobre la interfaz del shift register 74595 con launchpad. el launchpad msp430 envía datos al registro de desplazamiento en serie utilizando 3 pins. Esa información se entrega paralelamente al cubo conducido ... Primero búscala tú mismo, si no encuentras nada, entonces te ayudaré ...ok, to make a design like mine, you need to watch tutorials about interfacing shift register 74595 with launchpad. the msp430 launchpad sends data to the shift register serially using 3 pins. That data is parallelly given out to the led cube... first search it of your own, if you dont find anything, then i will help you...

No es necesario el pdf, el diagrama del circuito está en las imágenes. No le he dado el diagrama completo del circuito, usted tendrá que entenderlo a partir de sus propios diagramas y hacer el circuito según su experiencia. Si eres un principiante, entonces puedes ver videos básicos en youtube sobre los cubos de led y luego comenzar a construir el circuito.

ok, what are you trying to do? How did you get to know that 555 is not generating the signal? Show me pics of your circuit...

sorry for not replying, actually you must have the Photodiode and the LED parallel to each other, see any normal line follower design, plus your leds and photodiode will be attached on the other side of the board

sorry, i cant give it to you...haha its already in the instructable :D

sorry about that,Q0,Q1,Q2 are the outputs of the decade counters. if you see the datasheet of 4017. First time clock is given to 4017, it gives output on Q0, on next clock, output shifts to Q1, and so on.