Saral Tayal

Thank, glad you liked it :)

Hi. Glad you liked the project. The project actually doesn't draw much power. Since all the components are powered by the raspberry pi, they're well within the max USB 500ma spec. I was noticing a Max usage of 2A (at 5V) by the raspberry pi and all its peripherals (when the Roboclaws and motors weren't running). The power draw does go up when the motors are running and the robot is moving. Overall my battery lasted around 45 minutes with everything running including the motor but I had a particularly small battery in this setup. As for the step up converter, again, any step down converter that can handle a minimum of 2A is good enough. Try to pick an efficient step down converter though since it can waste a lot of battery energy

Hi Marek. Sorry for my late reply. I really like the rack'n'pinion style modular rails. That would probably add a fair bit of weight but would be really cool!I also really like your circular track idea. I think that's totally doable and would have the advantage of having the same radius between the camera and the object so you wouldn't need to rely on autofocus either. I chose not to go with that route since the kinds of shots you get from such a setup aren't as 'visually pleasing' due to a different perspective shift created by a circular motion. Here is what I asume you are talking about- https://blogs.solidworks.com/tech/2018/08/diy-3d-printed-camera-dolly.html

Sounds good. Good luck with your project!

Yes, that's correct. It is tracking the positional ordinate of an object. To track a moving/ dynamic object in real time would require image recognition which is far beyond the scope of this project. I know that DJI drones are pretty good at doing this!

Thanks for your kind words. To answer your question, yes, you measure both the cathetis of the triangle between the start point of the camera and to your object. Then the code can do the rest to triangulate the position. The y height of the triangle never changes since the object will always be the same distance from the rails but the x side of the triangle is constantly changing since the camera moves in the x direction.It could be possible to make a different version that has you framing in the start and framing it again at the end and doing everything in between using simple geometric equations but I found this implementation a bit more practical for my needs. Lastly, most definitely a time-lapse mode can be added to this slider. You could either slow down the speed of the slider from …

Thanks for your kind words. To answer your question, yes, you measure both the cathetis of the triangle between the start point of the camera and to your object. Then the code can do the rest to triangulate the position. The y height of the triangle never changes since the object will always be the same distance from the rails but the x side of the triangle is constantly changing since the camera moves in the x direction.It could be possible to make a different version that has you framing in the start and framing it again at the end and doing everything in between using simple geometric equations but I found this implementation a bit more practical for my needs. Lastly, most definitely a time-lapse mode can be added to this slider. You could either slow down the speed of the slider from the menu or you could have the slider start-stop like you mentioned

Thanks for your comment. Will take more photos and upload. The whole project cost around 100$ but I had some of the parts lying around from older projects

Thanks!I am not using an ultra wide screen, I am using a traditional 16:9 screen.The project took me a few weeks to build.

Yes, a surface is more than powerfull enough!

Any windows version will work as long as it supported by rainmeter. (Windows 7 is, XP isn't) :)

Very sorry for the late reply,I wish you the best of luck with your build. Yes, a touch panel can be added as you mentioned. Do note that there are 2 types of pannels, capacitive and ressistive. Ressistive is very easy to implement, but leaves a small air gap with a plasticky finish. The capacitive is glass based and doens't have an air bubble but is much more finicky and expensive to implement.

That's totally understandable. This is just a fun guide to inspire people. If you really want to try it but are too afraid, you can go to a local repair shop and ask them to professionally help you remove the back panel!

Looks really cool. Maybe you could find some way to use a magnet to move the nuts and bolts inside the bottle to setup the puzzle

Really cool build. Would love to try making it!

Is that the case? I haven't looked deeply into touch monitor options, but I have seen how screens in touchscreen laptops and smartphones that don't have bezels could be a straight drop in upgrade. Looking online, these desktop monitors seem to have touch without a bezel. Can you see if these would fit your use case?https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9...https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N...https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N...https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9...

Thanks for the clarification. I will updated my Instructable to reflect this. :)

Glad you like the project. Medicine schedule sounds like a fantastic addition. Keep me posted on your build!

Thanks for your kind words and I'm glad that my instructable helped you. To answer your questions, 1. I'm not touching the screen. If you look at the bottom of the mirror in my picture, you can see a trackpad used for the actual navigation. What I'm using is a Leap Motion controller which tracks your hand movements and converts it to cursor movements. This makes it a hand gesture based mouse. More info in the instructable2. track pads and touchscreens can work through thin layers of glass actually. Think of tempered glass screen protectors on mobile phones that don't hinder the phone's touch function. You just need to get glass that isn't too thick and test a small sample on your touch screen before using it.3. I think question 1 answers this question :)

It's a one way mirror. about 80-90% of the light that hits the surface from the mirror side is reflected rather than absorbed. And about 80-90% of light from the other side of the mirror surface passes through the film. This works because the light sources are from different sides of the mirror film. Additionally, the less light that comes from behind the film, the more reflective the mirror side becomes because the light coming from it is mostly reflected light. This is why the background of the display is black in color. Hope that answers your question!

The touchpad isn't beneath the glass. I mounted it to a plate that is below the mirror. I simply popped the touchpad out of the laptop and placed it under the mirror. I extended the original ribbon cables that connected the touchpad to the motherboard. Does that answer your question?

Amazing build. Knocked it outta the park on this one!

Rain meter is actually quite easy to run even on old and cheap hardware. An old surface would be more than powerful enough and comes with the added benefit that you might not need to disassemble it because of it's small footprint. You could also directly add a one way film to the screen and call it a day because of how the surface has a really good touchscreen built in! Let me know how the project goes!

Glad you liked the project! The cost for me was solely purchasing a second hand monitor (20$), getting the glass in my dimensions (20$) and the one way mirror film(5$). All in all it was under 50$ for me. But again depending on what you have at home, it'll cost you more or less than it cost me.

Haha, thanks. Glad you loved it that much!

Glad to help. Share your project with me when you're done!

I doubt that would be possible. You would need at least a two motor setup and a less flexible longboard for that to work well. Thanks!