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  • ShannonW49 commented on JasonF205's instructable Faux Brick Walls21 days ago
    Faux Brick Walls

    Wow. Very nice. I too like how you made it look like the brick was "exposed", as if plaster had fallen off. Now I'm going to have to close in my garage just so I have a wall I can do this to, heh heh. Yeah, that's it. "Honey, I have to close the garage in now. Gotta make a fake brick wall. Its not a man cave. We can park in the street, it will be OK. NOT a man cave. We don't need that couch anymore, do we?"

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  • ShannonW49 commented on JulioC150's instructable The 10 GREATEST Plumbing Tricks EVER!6 weeks ago
    The 10 GREATEST Plumbing Tricks EVER!

    Good collection of tips. I don't know how many times I've busted my knuckles trying to cut something (not just plumbing) in a confined place (#1) or been about ready to take a hammer to project with a bolt in a narrow gap (#10).

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  • ShannonW49 commented on DarinBeard's instructable Make a DIY Custom Guitar Pickguard7 weeks ago
    Make a DIY Custom Guitar Pickguard

    Nice job. I hadn't considered making my own pickguards, but now I may just try it out. I don't have access to the tools you have, so... Hey, Dremel, get your new hat, here we go! :)

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  • ShannonW49 commented on lonesoulsurfer's instructable Fizzle Loop Synth - 555 Timer5 months ago
    Fizzle Loop Synth - 555 Timer

    For the first circuit, you mention that your original schematic had only the 100k pot, and then talk about adding the 1M pot to get more options. However, your new schematic shows two 100k potentiometers. I am guessing it is a typo, and one of those should be 1M, but which one?

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  • ShannonW49 commented on BrittLiv's instructable How to Smooth PLA 3D Prints5 months ago
    How to Smooth PLA 3D Prints

    This is a very high quality instructable with good information. Well done.I was thinking about looking for PLA smoothing info, and lo and behold, your instructable came up. I tried sanding (not wanting to paint), and it discolored my piece, you know, white scratch marks type of effect. I have used acetone on ABS (a lot), and now my speling is not to good (lol). I prefer the smooth, shiny plastic look, so your information about the various chemicals is exactly what I needed.Thanks for your hard work and sharing.

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  • Robotic Helmet That Stops You From Crying

    I think you have a future in AIMER (Auto-magically Integrated Machine Emotion Response), a new and upcoming field (that I just made up). Great work, I voted for you.Just one suggestion... You should have a reservoir to collect your tears. I hear they bring top dollar on the black market, you know, Chinese aphrodisiacs and all. Also, a cowbell and mood lightening lights (check out neoPixels). BTW, I have no reason to suggest a cowbell.

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  • 3D Printing Guide - Surface Finishes and Print Accuracy

    Yes, I agree with the other commenters - Nice job on explaining the difference between the various 3d printing technologies. I've been using an FDM printer for a while, and knew some basics on other methods, but your instructable outlined them in a nice, easy to understand way. Thanks for posting!

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  • ShannonW49 followed netzener7 months ago
      • 8 Transistor Stereo Amplifier
      • Portable Variable Power Supply
      • One Tube AM Radio
  • ShannonW49 commented on fixthisbuildthat's instructable 5 Ways to Print on Wood8 months ago
    5 Ways to Print on Wood

    You must use image editing software of some sort. Most will have a "flip" or "mirror" option you can use on the image to reverse it.Basically, you have to have a reversed version of the image (a modified second image file or a "flipped" image in an editor), and then print that. I don't think Windows has the ability to mirror an image as it prints it. Maybe version 8+ does, but I stick with 7.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on abzza's instructable Tales From the Chip: LM1875 Audio Amplifier9 months ago
    Tales From the Chip: LM1875 Audio Amplifier

    Love that site (http://sound.whsites.net) Elliott Sound Productions. Lots of good information there about stuff like this. Very helpful. Got me through quite a few projects and problems ;)

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  • ShannonW49 commented on abzza's instructable Tales From the Chip: LM1875 Audio Amplifier9 months ago
    Tales From the Chip: LM1875 Audio Amplifier

    Yeah, check out the schematic at http://electronics-diy.com/lm4780-gainclone-amplif... - it uses bridged parallel amps (4 X LM3886, but would apply to this) to pump out 225 watts into 8 ohms.Hmm, I may need to try this... ;)

    These two components form what is called a Zobel network. It is use to prevent the chipamp from oscillating due to the inductive load of the speaker. It also prevents radio frequencies picked up by the speaker wires from getting back into the inverting input of the chipamp through the feedback loop (R1).According to http://www.circuitbasics.com/design-hi-fi-audio-am... (which is about the LM3886 - it uses Rsn and Csn to refer to those two components):"At high frequencies, the impedance of Csn is very low, so high frequency current is shorted to ground. Rsn limits the high frequency current so there isn’t a direct short to ground, which could exceed the current limit of the LM3886. Therefore, smaller values of Rsn make the Zobel network more efficient at filtering radio freq...

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    These two components form what is called a Zobel network. It is use to prevent the chipamp from oscillating due to the inductive load of the speaker. It also prevents radio frequencies picked up by the speaker wires from getting back into the inverting input of the chipamp through the feedback loop (R1).According to http://www.circuitbasics.com/design-hi-fi-audio-am... (which is about the LM3886 - it uses Rsn and Csn to refer to those two components):"At high frequencies, the impedance of Csn is very low, so high frequency current is shorted to ground. Rsn limits the high frequency current so there isn’t a direct short to ground, which could exceed the current limit of the LM3886. Therefore, smaller values of Rsn make the Zobel network more efficient at filtering radio frequencies, but it also increases the cutoff frequency, which in turn reduces it’s effectiveness." I've seen these on a lot of chipamp circuits with varying values of the two components, but usually very close to what is here (4.7 ohm + 220nf, 2.2 ohm + 100nf, etc). So I suspect there is a bit of a dance around a narrow line of efficiency and effectiveness.BTW, nice article!

    No, they are not the same. Speakers are inductive, while resistors are not. This means that the speaker will have different resistance at different frequencies. The resistor will have the same resistance at all frequencies.So, for testing, the resistor is better because you get the same resistance across the spectrum. Plus, if you screw something up, a resistor is a lot cheaper than a speaker ;)

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  • ShannonW49 commented on D-Cantrell's instructable 3D Printer Thermal Enclosure9 months ago
    3D Printer Thermal Enclosure

    Nicely done. I'm looking to create an enclosure, but hadn't thought about see-through materials.I'm about to print out parts to mount the printer to the 2 foot square board its sitting on (stability) and move the power supply and control board and panel off the printer to the front of the board for a clean and accessible work area. Containing the heat in my drafty garage is a must. Having the control board and power supply outside of the heated area would be a good idea. Gotta keep that stuff cool.This, or something very similar, is perfect for me. Thanks for the ideas!

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  • How to Make a Touch Switch Using One Mosfet

    Sorry that people are "upset" that this is not a capacitive touch switch or the diagram is not uber professional. With such a simple design, a simple schematic is all that is needed. Everybody understood it, so what is the problem?It could be a dual touch (one for on, one for off) if the contacts were close enough together so that a "touch" bridged the gap between two points - On touch = left MOSFET pin and +, Off touch = left pin and -. I might just do that for fun :) I just built a 3d printer, so I could make a face place with two finger-sized indentations that have two small wire-sized holes in each.Thanks to your notes I learned the functional difference between enhancement and depletion mode MOSFETs. I had read the technical jargon and educational materials...

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    Sorry that people are "upset" that this is not a capacitive touch switch or the diagram is not uber professional. With such a simple design, a simple schematic is all that is needed. Everybody understood it, so what is the problem?It could be a dual touch (one for on, one for off) if the contacts were close enough together so that a "touch" bridged the gap between two points - On touch = left MOSFET pin and +, Off touch = left pin and -. I might just do that for fun :) I just built a 3d printer, so I could make a face place with two finger-sized indentations that have two small wire-sized holes in each.Thanks to your notes I learned the functional difference between enhancement and depletion mode MOSFETs. I had read the technical jargon and educational materials, but your notes simplified it so that it clicked in my head. Makes so much sense now.Oh, and yes, there is a lot of very technical information that could be inserted about all sorts of stuff here, but that is not the point of this instructable. KISS is. (Keep It Simple Stupid - something I try, but often fail, to live by)Keep it up!One criticism, easily fixed - Maybe you copy/pasted your text, but the line breaks (which broke it up into paragraphs here) in the introduction section confused me when I started reading.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on seamster's instructable Spray Paint Secret Safe11 months ago
    Spray Paint Secret Safe

    Nice instructable. You could use a PVC piece that is threaded, and have a top on the compartment to store your valuables. Then the rattling marble won't be hitting your valuables when you shake it.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on davebodnar's instructable Fidget Spinner to Brushless Motor1 year ago
    Fidget Spinner to Brushless Motor

    Nicely done. I now understand how brushless motors work, the various ways it can be implemented, and some pros and cons for each method. Thanks for your work. I really enjoy well done "concept instructables" because I always like to know why things work, not just how to do it. Also, I didn't realize reed switches could switch on/off that quickly. (or that mechanical switch, for that matter)

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  • LuxO's Open Joinery 32" Smart Mirror

    lol, and add in a rich, handsome husband doing the dishes behind her...Actually, that would be a cool mod - use the camera idea, detect the person's outline, and change the scenery behind them. It could be like a portal-mirror, with a tropical beach scene (and a rich, handsome husband bringing drinks).

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  • Harvesting your own clay, dirty but delightful!

    Nice one. voted.This is a wealth of info. I live in Texas, and the Brazos river is at the edge of my back yard. I have found large brick-red clumps of raw, clean clay, and made little smiley faces to dry on flat river rocks, but never knew what I could really do with it. This has inspired me to go collect some and "play" a little more seriously with it. Thanks for the info, and time you took to put it down into a nicely illustrated and easy to read format.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on vina1991's instructable DIY AUTOMATIC SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER1 year ago
    DIY AUTOMATIC SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER

    Daisy chain two of these circuits, or figure a way to load balance, to charge two batteries at once. Then you only dump when both are full. Or expand to three or more batteries.Or... Set up another relay and have it charge one until full, then switch over (via relay) to charge the next battery.Or... instead of a battery, run a heating element in a hot water heater. Then use heat exchange to get your energy back out ;)

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  • Laser Printed PCB's, Perfect and Easy.

    When I started doing this, I used a dremel tool with a very small drill bit. I forget the size, but I special ordered several that were specifically for this purpose. Later, I got a small jeweler's drill press which worked much better.Getting the passive component holes just right is not very crucial. Just as long as they are "connected" to the required traces and nothing else. For 8 pin DIPs, I always use sockets, and the pins on the sockets (and chips as well if you don't use sockets) are a little forgiving. They can move around a bit (bend, twist, "stretch", etc), and the holes don't have to be perfect. The stuff I do doesn't go much over an 8 pin or a pentawatt type package, but I've never had a problem drilling the holes.Occasionally, the bit will "wa...

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    When I started doing this, I used a dremel tool with a very small drill bit. I forget the size, but I special ordered several that were specifically for this purpose. Later, I got a small jeweler's drill press which worked much better.Getting the passive component holes just right is not very crucial. Just as long as they are "connected" to the required traces and nothing else. For 8 pin DIPs, I always use sockets, and the pins on the sockets (and chips as well if you don't use sockets) are a little forgiving. They can move around a bit (bend, twist, "stretch", etc), and the holes don't have to be perfect. The stuff I do doesn't go much over an 8 pin or a pentawatt type package, but I've never had a problem drilling the holes.Occasionally, the bit will "walk" a little, but that never really caused a problem. One thing to help that is to etch a tiny hole in the middle of the trace where you want the pin to come through. Include it in your mask. Then the lack of copper helps guide the drill bit and keep it from moving around until the hole is deep enough to keep it in place.The biggest problem I had was figuring out what size drill bit to get and use. I'm not at my project bench now, so I can't check them and tell you what I use. The second problem was slightly crooked holes when I used my dremel tool (not perfectly 90 degrees), but that really wasn't a problem.I have actually used a thumb drill (manual pencil shaped drill, similar to an exacto knife with a drill bit on the end) to do the holes in PCBs before, and it did a surprisingly decent job. Went faster than I expected as well. Just press down with one thumb while spinning with the other hand. Put a small piece of cloth over the end so you don't get a blister on your thumb after a while from the friction.I would recommend not worrying too much about the holes, as they are not as hard as you think, and do not have to be as precise as you think. In my opinion, its harder to keep the very thin traces from getting gaps from leaving it in too long. Long live solder bridges!

    Lye as an etchant? Did you mix it with anything or just use it "raw"?I have heard of using projector sheets, but never tried it. How well does that work and can you reuse the sheets? I've always used the magazine paper (shiniest and thinnest I can find, with econo-mode off and printer settings to dump maximum toner).

    A good recommendation. I do this as well using a Sharpie permanent marker. I do not know what a Dalo pen is, but may be similar. The Sharpie's ink is etch resistant, but can wear out if it is in the etchant too long. On some boards, when I've had weak etchant and it took a while, I had to remove the board and re-color some of the areas multiple times. Some still came out with tiny pin-holes speckled around.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on Natural Nerd's instructable Fancy Room Lighting Control Panel2 years ago
    Fancy Room Lighting Control Panel

    I think he does want to dim it, but the LED panel he has wasn't designed to dim. Using PWM should allow him to dim the panel.Current limiting sure wouldn't hurt, even if its just a current limiting resistor in series. Constant current supply and current limiting resistors are to prevent the LEDs from getting too much current and burning themselves out. I would recommend putting a resistor in there along with the PWM, just in case. I've burned enough LEDs that I always use resistors now.PWM (pulse width modulation) sends quick pulses of voltage instead of a steady DC voltage. This allows you to slow the pulses down and make the LEDs appear to be not-as-bright, when in reality they are simply going on and off at a slower rate. BTW, the on-off pulses are so quick that the human eye c...

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    I think he does want to dim it, but the LED panel he has wasn't designed to dim. Using PWM should allow him to dim the panel.Current limiting sure wouldn't hurt, even if its just a current limiting resistor in series. Constant current supply and current limiting resistors are to prevent the LEDs from getting too much current and burning themselves out. I would recommend putting a resistor in there along with the PWM, just in case. I've burned enough LEDs that I always use resistors now.PWM (pulse width modulation) sends quick pulses of voltage instead of a steady DC voltage. This allows you to slow the pulses down and make the LEDs appear to be not-as-bright, when in reality they are simply going on and off at a slower rate. BTW, the on-off pulses are so quick that the human eye can't see it. Also, the pulses allow the LEDs to cool slightly in the off cycle, which prevents them from getting so hot and burning out. However, it is still possible to burn them, so I recommend the resistor. Its cheap protection.LEDs by themselves will take all the current available to them, with no limiting control. Having a resistor in series with them allows you to specify how much current they can have. The value of the resistor depends on the voltage being supplied and the maximum amount of current your LED(s) can handle. For example, with 12 volts and an LED that can handle 30 miliAmps - R=Volt/current - 400=12/.030 - so, a 400 ohm resistor would limit it to .03 amps at 12 volts. I personally would bump that up just a tad, maybe 470 (higher ohms is less current) because LEDs look just about as bright when near (not at) their maximum, but live a lot longer. (FYI, you also have to deal with resistor values, good luck finding a 400 ohm resistor).

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  • How to use 2.4 inch TFT LCD SPFD5408 with Arduino Uno and Mega

    I found a solution to the X/Y axis being swapped, at least for me. Using an Uno with a 2.4 TFT LCD Shield. The controller on the shield is covered, so I don't know what it is. Cheapo from China.In SPFD5408_TouchScreen.cpp:Find the lines that say "int TouchScreen::readTouchX(void)" and "int TouchScreen::readTouchY(void)", and then swap the X and Ys. These are at the end of the file, with just one small section after them.That way every time it wants to read what the X coordinate of the touch is, it receives the Y coordinate instead, and vice versa.That fixed swapping the X and Y axis, but now X is backwards (reads high when it should be low). To fix that, find the line (in the same file, towards the middle) that says "return TSPoint(x, 1023 - y, z);" an...

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    I found a solution to the X/Y axis being swapped, at least for me. Using an Uno with a 2.4 TFT LCD Shield. The controller on the shield is covered, so I don't know what it is. Cheapo from China.In SPFD5408_TouchScreen.cpp:Find the lines that say "int TouchScreen::readTouchX(void)" and "int TouchScreen::readTouchY(void)", and then swap the X and Ys. These are at the end of the file, with just one small section after them.That way every time it wants to read what the X coordinate of the touch is, it receives the Y coordinate instead, and vice versa.That fixed swapping the X and Y axis, but now X is backwards (reads high when it should be low). To fix that, find the line (in the same file, towards the middle) that says "return TSPoint(x, 1023 - y, z);" and change it to "return TSPoint(1100 - x, 1023 - y, z);" This is the same fix that other people have suggested. What this does is take the X value of the touch, and subtract it from 1100, which effectively reverses the X coordinate. Example: If X is 25, it should be on the left, because 0,0 is upper left. However, it is registering at the far right instead because X is backwards. If we subtract it from 1100 (or some number close that works for you, experiment), then 1100-25 = 1075. 1075 should be at the far right, but because X is backwards, it registers at the far left. Ta-Da, fixed.

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