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  • Custom Bass Guitar With Recycled Neck

    Very nicely done! Thanks for writing this, you are by far a braver man than I! I have wanted to make my own bass for a long time, but lack the proper tools, space, time, money, motivation, brainpower and beer. Maybe if I gain a couple of these I will follow your lead.

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  • Etch a Circuit Board With Kitchen Supplies

    I've done this for several years. Here's a couple of tips:-- I use thin glossy magazine paper for the transfer. Works well, and is cheaper and easier to find. It may take a try or two to get the subtle differences down, but works pretty much the same way.-- I use 2:1 hydrogen peroxide to 9% white vinegar. I add the board, then sprinkle the salt in. It will immediately start fizzing. When the fizzing slows, I add more salt. The salt adds ions to allow a better reaction (etching). I also add an aquarium bubbler to the mix (put hose in so it bubbles in the solution) to keep it moving around. This keeps the solution mixed (no "dead spots" of used reactant directly above the board) and keeps the gunk from building up on the board itself (to be scraped off).-- I have starte...

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    I've done this for several years. Here's a couple of tips:-- I use thin glossy magazine paper for the transfer. Works well, and is cheaper and easier to find. It may take a try or two to get the subtle differences down, but works pretty much the same way.-- I use 2:1 hydrogen peroxide to 9% white vinegar. I add the board, then sprinkle the salt in. It will immediately start fizzing. When the fizzing slows, I add more salt. The salt adds ions to allow a better reaction (etching). I also add an aquarium bubbler to the mix (put hose in so it bubbles in the solution) to keep it moving around. This keeps the solution mixed (no "dead spots" of used reactant directly above the board) and keeps the gunk from building up on the board itself (to be scraped off).-- I have started using HCl instead of vinegar. This is hydrochloric acid, and is also know as muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is a common product available at home improvement stores for swimming pool maintenance. Comes in a big box or a gallon jug for a few dollars, and is more than you will ever need.----- 2 parts H2O2, 1 part HCl - Using this has some advantages. It etches faster and can be "renewed" (you don't have to throw it away). By bubbling air through it, you cause some other reactions to happen the converts the used-up solution to drop its copper and become useful again. Just store it (safely) and you got it ready for next time. (any chemist want to explain it?).----- First time you use this, it will be very fast, so be careful (fast and mean, might want to just dissolve some copper into it instead of etching a board right off). As the copper dissolves into it, it becomes cupric chloride (and turns green). This is what will do the etching later instead of the raw HCl, and it will slow down a bit. The cupric chloride is really what you want, you want it green. That is what is "renewable". You can bump the acid levels back up by adding oxygen (bubble air through the mixture).

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  • ShannonW49 commented on Ajaxjones's instructable WW2 Radio Broadcast Time Machine6 months ago
    WW2 Radio Broadcast Time Machine

    Very cool. No other words for it.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on Nikus's instructable 5 Simple Ways to Determine LED Polarity6 months ago
    5 Simple Ways to Determine LED Polarity

    lol, beat me to it :) yeah 12v/1000 ohm=0.012 amp -- safe for LED.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on ynze's instructable Loudspeaker Design by Trial and Error7 months ago
    Loudspeaker Design by Trial and Error

    Thank you for taking the time to write this instructable. VERY well done. I've attempted (with blind ambition and little knowledge) to build speaker cabs, always using what I currently have (drivers from old/donated speakers, etc). Always with so-so results. I know about the maths, formulas, concepts, and so on, but it always seemed like an overwhelming amount of information. So I tended to ignore it out of fear :) Thanks for 1) providing good sources of information and calculators, 2) encouraging me with the knowledge that even the calculators disagree and that experimentation is required, and 3) boosting my "speaker morale" so that I'm excited to try again. Lots of very good information that you have discovered in here. Thanks again.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on appideas's instructable Custom PCBs on a CNC Router7 months ago
    Custom PCBs on a CNC Router

    Strange, I've tried that and it didn't seem to work. Lemme try againThree line breaks

    No problems. Its often hard to judge inflection through text :) Very nice instructable, by the way. I do understand what you are saying and I agree. Please keep up the quality work!

    - Hmm, personally (like I mentioned in previous) that is how I would do it. That is how I learned to do it. For a beginner or advanced, if you have a good gap between traces (not tiny "is that touching") then you don't have to worry about shorts. Especially if you test with a multimeter in cleanup. I am not trying to say you are wrong, I am saying that is how I do it. For those who learn from this and continue on, leaving the ground plane will save time and achieve better electronic results. For those just beginning, keep it as simple as possible and just make it work (remove the ground plane so you can see better what is going on). - And sorry, I don't believe its "horrible" advice. You do as you learn. I was just trying to help with additional information....

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    - Hmm, personally (like I mentioned in previous) that is how I would do it. That is how I learned to do it. For a beginner or advanced, if you have a good gap between traces (not tiny "is that touching") then you don't have to worry about shorts. Especially if you test with a multimeter in cleanup. I am not trying to say you are wrong, I am saying that is how I do it. For those who learn from this and continue on, leaving the ground plane will save time and achieve better electronic results. For those just beginning, keep it as simple as possible and just make it work (remove the ground plane so you can see better what is going on). - And sorry, I don't believe its "horrible" advice. You do as you learn. I was just trying to help with additional information. I am a BEGINNER to CNC routing of boards, but not at electronics, so this instructable is not for me? I'm slightly offended.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on appideas's instructable Custom PCBs on a CNC Router7 months ago
    Custom PCBs on a CNC Router

    Personally, I would make sure you have good isolation on your traces, and leave the copper "field" (or plane) there. Then connect your ground to the plane. Just verify there are no shorts between non-ground traces and the ground plane. You can also connect all ground points to the plane (without traces if possible) and have as much of your "unused" copper be ground.This helps with RFI, saves time, and gives a ground with slightly less impedance for the circuit. I etch PCBs instead of routing them, but I use this ground plane on every board I etch. The benefits and savings are just too good to pass up.If you look at professionally done boards (take anything apart) and you will see there is no bare areas. Any non-populated areas are ground planes (or power planes...

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    Personally, I would make sure you have good isolation on your traces, and leave the copper "field" (or plane) there. Then connect your ground to the plane. Just verify there are no shorts between non-ground traces and the ground plane. You can also connect all ground points to the plane (without traces if possible) and have as much of your "unused" copper be ground.This helps with RFI, saves time, and gives a ground with slightly less impedance for the circuit. I etch PCBs instead of routing them, but I use this ground plane on every board I etch. The benefits and savings are just too good to pass up.If you look at professionally done boards (take anything apart) and you will see there is no bare areas. Any non-populated areas are ground planes (or power planes on some double+ sided boards). There is a reason for this. Cheaper, faster, and electronically better.My two cents...

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  • ShannonW49 commented on OurRuggedWorkshop's instructable Easy Way to Age Metal7 months ago
    Easy Way to Age Metal

    Pretty cool. I've used these same ingredients (vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and salt) as an etchant for making circuit boards. Much easier, cheaper and environmentally friendly than the stinky black ferris chloride normally used.The salt (as someone mentioned already) does speed the process up. Ions and all that. When etching PCBs, I would add more salt when the bubbling slowed. That would "refresh" it and it would start bubbling again. To speed it up more, I added a bubble hose (aquarium air pump and basic clear air hose) to keep the solution moving around.I wonder if you could "age" the metal faster by combining your two steps and using a mixture like I use for etching. I'm thinking maybe 30 minutes to an hour. Its been a bit ago but I think I used two parts ...

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    Pretty cool. I've used these same ingredients (vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and salt) as an etchant for making circuit boards. Much easier, cheaper and environmentally friendly than the stinky black ferris chloride normally used.The salt (as someone mentioned already) does speed the process up. Ions and all that. When etching PCBs, I would add more salt when the bubbling slowed. That would "refresh" it and it would start bubbling again. To speed it up more, I added a bubble hose (aquarium air pump and basic clear air hose) to keep the solution moving around.I wonder if you could "age" the metal faster by combining your two steps and using a mixture like I use for etching. I'm thinking maybe 30 minutes to an hour. Its been a bit ago but I think I used two parts white vinegar (like 9% I think) and 1 part hydrogen peroxide. The salt - I just sprinkled it in afterwards until it bubbled pretty good. I know it will corrode other metals (I was etching copper), because I accidentally dropped my wedding ring in once and it cleaned it very well (a little too well, the non-gold part was starting to turn dark). It was only in the solution about 30 seconds - long enough for me to find a stinkin' pair of long needle nose to get it out.Anyway, something to consider if you are in a hurry ;)BTW, I have gotten the solution on me with no ill effects. I wouldn't bathe in it, but I'm not going to wear a hazmat suit to use it either. Maybe dried my fingertips out a little after etching several boards and drying them in between dunkings. I'm sure someone can tell me how it will turn me into a raging four-armed mutant zombie, but luckily I've already had all the children I'm going to.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on JasonF205's instructable Faux Brick Walls8 months ago
    Faux Brick Walls

    Wow. Very nice. I too like how you made it look like the brick was "exposed", as if plaster had fallen off. Now I'm going to have to close in my garage just so I have a wall I can do this to, heh heh. Yeah, that's it. "Honey, I have to close the garage in now. Gotta make a fake brick wall. Its not a man cave. We can park in the street, it will be OK. NOT a man cave. We don't need that couch anymore, do we?"

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  • ShannonW49 commented on JulioC150's instructable The 10 GREATEST Plumbing Tricks EVER!9 months ago
    The 10 GREATEST Plumbing Tricks EVER!

    Good collection of tips. I don't know how many times I've busted my knuckles trying to cut something (not just plumbing) in a confined place (#1) or been about ready to take a hammer to project with a bolt in a narrow gap (#10).

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  • ShannonW49 commented on DarinBeard's instructable Make a DIY Custom Guitar Pickguard9 months ago
    Make a DIY Custom Guitar Pickguard

    Nice job. I hadn't considered making my own pickguards, but now I may just try it out. I don't have access to the tools you have, so... Hey, Dremel, get your new hat, here we go! :)

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  • ShannonW49 commented on lonesoulsurfer's instructable Fizzle Loop Synth - 555 Timer1 year ago
    Fizzle Loop Synth - 555 Timer

    For the first circuit, you mention that your original schematic had only the 100k pot, and then talk about adding the 1M pot to get more options. However, your new schematic shows two 100k potentiometers. I am guessing it is a typo, and one of those should be 1M, but which one?

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  • ShannonW49 commented on BrittLiv's instructable How to Smooth PLA 3D Prints1 year ago
    How to Smooth PLA 3D Prints

    This is a very high quality instructable with good information. Well done.I was thinking about looking for PLA smoothing info, and lo and behold, your instructable came up. I tried sanding (not wanting to paint), and it discolored my piece, you know, white scratch marks type of effect. I have used acetone on ABS (a lot), and now my speling is not to good (lol). I prefer the smooth, shiny plastic look, so your information about the various chemicals is exactly what I needed.Thanks for your hard work and sharing.

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  • Robotic Helmet That Stops You From Crying

    I think you have a future in AIMER (Auto-magically Integrated Machine Emotion Response), a new and upcoming field (that I just made up). Great work, I voted for you.Just one suggestion... You should have a reservoir to collect your tears. I hear they bring top dollar on the black market, you know, Chinese aphrodisiacs and all. Also, a cowbell and mood lightening lights (check out neoPixels). BTW, I have no reason to suggest a cowbell.

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  • 3D Printing Guide - Surface Finishes and Print Accuracy

    Yes, I agree with the other commenters - Nice job on explaining the difference between the various 3d printing technologies. I've been using an FDM printer for a while, and knew some basics on other methods, but your instructable outlined them in a nice, easy to understand way. Thanks for posting!

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  • ShannonW49 followed netzener1 year ago
      • 8 Transistor Stereo Amplifier
      • Portable Variable Power Supply
      • One Tube AM Radio
  • ShannonW49 commented on fixthisbuildthat's instructable 5 Ways to Print on Wood1 year ago
    5 Ways to Print on Wood

    You must use image editing software of some sort. Most will have a "flip" or "mirror" option you can use on the image to reverse it.Basically, you have to have a reversed version of the image (a modified second image file or a "flipped" image in an editor), and then print that. I don't think Windows has the ability to mirror an image as it prints it. Maybe version 8+ does, but I stick with 7.

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  • Tales From the Chip: LM1875 Audio Amplifier

    Love that site (http://sound.whsites.net) Elliott Sound Productions. Lots of good information there about stuff like this. Very helpful. Got me through quite a few projects and problems ;)

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  • Tales From the Chip: LM1875 Audio Amplifier

    Yeah, check out the schematic at http://electronics-diy.com/lm4780-gainclone-amplif... - it uses bridged parallel amps (4 X LM3886, but would apply to this) to pump out 225 watts into 8 ohms.Hmm, I may need to try this... ;)

    These two components form what is called a Zobel network. It is use to prevent the chipamp from oscillating due to the inductive load of the speaker. It also prevents radio frequencies picked up by the speaker wires from getting back into the inverting input of the chipamp through the feedback loop (R1).According to http://www.circuitbasics.com/design-hi-fi-audio-am... (which is about the LM3886 - it uses Rsn and Csn to refer to those two components):"At high frequencies, the impedance of Csn is very low, so high frequency current is shorted to ground. Rsn limits the high frequency current so there isn’t a direct short to ground, which could exceed the current limit of the LM3886. Therefore, smaller values of Rsn make the Zobel network more efficient at filtering radio freq...

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    These two components form what is called a Zobel network. It is use to prevent the chipamp from oscillating due to the inductive load of the speaker. It also prevents radio frequencies picked up by the speaker wires from getting back into the inverting input of the chipamp through the feedback loop (R1).According to http://www.circuitbasics.com/design-hi-fi-audio-am... (which is about the LM3886 - it uses Rsn and Csn to refer to those two components):"At high frequencies, the impedance of Csn is very low, so high frequency current is shorted to ground. Rsn limits the high frequency current so there isn’t a direct short to ground, which could exceed the current limit of the LM3886. Therefore, smaller values of Rsn make the Zobel network more efficient at filtering radio frequencies, but it also increases the cutoff frequency, which in turn reduces it’s effectiveness." I've seen these on a lot of chipamp circuits with varying values of the two components, but usually very close to what is here (4.7 ohm + 220nf, 2.2 ohm + 100nf, etc). So I suspect there is a bit of a dance around a narrow line of efficiency and effectiveness.BTW, nice article!

    No, they are not the same. Speakers are inductive, while resistors are not. This means that the speaker will have different resistance at different frequencies. The resistor will have the same resistance at all frequencies.So, for testing, the resistor is better because you get the same resistance across the spectrum. Plus, if you screw something up, a resistor is a lot cheaper than a speaker ;)

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  • ShannonW49 commented on D-Cantrell's instructable 3D Printer Thermal Enclosure1 year ago
    3D Printer Thermal Enclosure

    Nicely done. I'm looking to create an enclosure, but hadn't thought about see-through materials.I'm about to print out parts to mount the printer to the 2 foot square board its sitting on (stability) and move the power supply and control board and panel off the printer to the front of the board for a clean and accessible work area. Containing the heat in my drafty garage is a must. Having the control board and power supply outside of the heated area would be a good idea. Gotta keep that stuff cool.This, or something very similar, is perfect for me. Thanks for the ideas!

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  • How to Make a Touch Switch Using One Mosfet

    Sorry that people are "upset" that this is not a capacitive touch switch or the diagram is not uber professional. With such a simple design, a simple schematic is all that is needed. Everybody understood it, so what is the problem?It could be a dual touch (one for on, one for off) if the contacts were close enough together so that a "touch" bridged the gap between two points - On touch = left MOSFET pin and +, Off touch = left pin and -. I might just do that for fun :) I just built a 3d printer, so I could make a face place with two finger-sized indentations that have two small wire-sized holes in each.Thanks to your notes I learned the functional difference between enhancement and depletion mode MOSFETs. I had read the technical jargon and educational materials...

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    Sorry that people are "upset" that this is not a capacitive touch switch or the diagram is not uber professional. With such a simple design, a simple schematic is all that is needed. Everybody understood it, so what is the problem?It could be a dual touch (one for on, one for off) if the contacts were close enough together so that a "touch" bridged the gap between two points - On touch = left MOSFET pin and +, Off touch = left pin and -. I might just do that for fun :) I just built a 3d printer, so I could make a face place with two finger-sized indentations that have two small wire-sized holes in each.Thanks to your notes I learned the functional difference between enhancement and depletion mode MOSFETs. I had read the technical jargon and educational materials, but your notes simplified it so that it clicked in my head. Makes so much sense now.Oh, and yes, there is a lot of very technical information that could be inserted about all sorts of stuff here, but that is not the point of this instructable. KISS is. (Keep It Simple Stupid - something I try, but often fail, to live by)Keep it up!One criticism, easily fixed - Maybe you copy/pasted your text, but the line breaks (which broke it up into paragraphs here) in the introduction section confused me when I started reading.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on seamster's instructable Spray Paint Secret Safe1 year ago
    Spray Paint Secret Safe

    Nice instructable. You could use a PVC piece that is threaded, and have a top on the compartment to store your valuables. Then the rattling marble won't be hitting your valuables when you shake it.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on davebodnar's instructable Fidget Spinner to Brushless Motor1 year ago
    Fidget Spinner to Brushless Motor

    Nicely done. I now understand how brushless motors work, the various ways it can be implemented, and some pros and cons for each method. Thanks for your work. I really enjoy well done "concept instructables" because I always like to know why things work, not just how to do it. Also, I didn't realize reed switches could switch on/off that quickly. (or that mechanical switch, for that matter)

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  • LuxO's Open Joinery 32" Smart Mirror

    lol, and add in a rich, handsome husband doing the dishes behind her...Actually, that would be a cool mod - use the camera idea, detect the person's outline, and change the scenery behind them. It could be like a portal-mirror, with a tropical beach scene (and a rich, handsome husband bringing drinks).

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  • Harvesting your own clay, dirty but delightful!

    Nice one. voted.This is a wealth of info. I live in Texas, and the Brazos river is at the edge of my back yard. I have found large brick-red clumps of raw, clean clay, and made little smiley faces to dry on flat river rocks, but never knew what I could really do with it. This has inspired me to go collect some and "play" a little more seriously with it. Thanks for the info, and time you took to put it down into a nicely illustrated and easy to read format.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on vina1991's instructable DIY AUTOMATIC SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER2 years ago
    DIY AUTOMATIC SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER

    Daisy chain two of these circuits, or figure a way to load balance, to charge two batteries at once. Then you only dump when both are full. Or expand to three or more batteries.Or... Set up another relay and have it charge one until full, then switch over (via relay) to charge the next battery.Or... instead of a battery, run a heating element in a hot water heater. Then use heat exchange to get your energy back out ;)

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  • Laser Printed PCB's, Perfect and Easy.

    When I started doing this, I used a dremel tool with a very small drill bit. I forget the size, but I special ordered several that were specifically for this purpose. Later, I got a small jeweler's drill press which worked much better.Getting the passive component holes just right is not very crucial. Just as long as they are "connected" to the required traces and nothing else. For 8 pin DIPs, I always use sockets, and the pins on the sockets (and chips as well if you don't use sockets) are a little forgiving. They can move around a bit (bend, twist, "stretch", etc), and the holes don't have to be perfect. The stuff I do doesn't go much over an 8 pin or a pentawatt type package, but I've never had a problem drilling the holes.Occasionally, the bit will "wa...

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    When I started doing this, I used a dremel tool with a very small drill bit. I forget the size, but I special ordered several that were specifically for this purpose. Later, I got a small jeweler's drill press which worked much better.Getting the passive component holes just right is not very crucial. Just as long as they are "connected" to the required traces and nothing else. For 8 pin DIPs, I always use sockets, and the pins on the sockets (and chips as well if you don't use sockets) are a little forgiving. They can move around a bit (bend, twist, "stretch", etc), and the holes don't have to be perfect. The stuff I do doesn't go much over an 8 pin or a pentawatt type package, but I've never had a problem drilling the holes.Occasionally, the bit will "walk" a little, but that never really caused a problem. One thing to help that is to etch a tiny hole in the middle of the trace where you want the pin to come through. Include it in your mask. Then the lack of copper helps guide the drill bit and keep it from moving around until the hole is deep enough to keep it in place.The biggest problem I had was figuring out what size drill bit to get and use. I'm not at my project bench now, so I can't check them and tell you what I use. The second problem was slightly crooked holes when I used my dremel tool (not perfectly 90 degrees), but that really wasn't a problem.I have actually used a thumb drill (manual pencil shaped drill, similar to an exacto knife with a drill bit on the end) to do the holes in PCBs before, and it did a surprisingly decent job. Went faster than I expected as well. Just press down with one thumb while spinning with the other hand. Put a small piece of cloth over the end so you don't get a blister on your thumb after a while from the friction.I would recommend not worrying too much about the holes, as they are not as hard as you think, and do not have to be as precise as you think. In my opinion, its harder to keep the very thin traces from getting gaps from leaving it in too long. Long live solder bridges!

    Lye as an etchant? Did you mix it with anything or just use it "raw"?I have heard of using projector sheets, but never tried it. How well does that work and can you reuse the sheets? I've always used the magazine paper (shiniest and thinnest I can find, with econo-mode off and printer settings to dump maximum toner).

    A good recommendation. I do this as well using a Sharpie permanent marker. I do not know what a Dalo pen is, but may be similar. The Sharpie's ink is etch resistant, but can wear out if it is in the etchant too long. On some boards, when I've had weak etchant and it took a while, I had to remove the board and re-color some of the areas multiple times. Some still came out with tiny pin-holes speckled around.

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  • ShannonW49 commented on Natural Nerd's instructable Fancy Room Lighting Control Panel2 years ago
    Fancy Room Lighting Control Panel

    I think he does want to dim it, but the LED panel he has wasn't designed to dim. Using PWM should allow him to dim the panel.Current limiting sure wouldn't hurt, even if its just a current limiting resistor in series. Constant current supply and current limiting resistors are to prevent the LEDs from getting too much current and burning themselves out. I would recommend putting a resistor in there along with the PWM, just in case. I've burned enough LEDs that I always use resistors now.PWM (pulse width modulation) sends quick pulses of voltage instead of a steady DC voltage. This allows you to slow the pulses down and make the LEDs appear to be not-as-bright, when in reality they are simply going on and off at a slower rate. BTW, the on-off pulses are so quick that the human eye c...

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    I think he does want to dim it, but the LED panel he has wasn't designed to dim. Using PWM should allow him to dim the panel.Current limiting sure wouldn't hurt, even if its just a current limiting resistor in series. Constant current supply and current limiting resistors are to prevent the LEDs from getting too much current and burning themselves out. I would recommend putting a resistor in there along with the PWM, just in case. I've burned enough LEDs that I always use resistors now.PWM (pulse width modulation) sends quick pulses of voltage instead of a steady DC voltage. This allows you to slow the pulses down and make the LEDs appear to be not-as-bright, when in reality they are simply going on and off at a slower rate. BTW, the on-off pulses are so quick that the human eye can't see it. Also, the pulses allow the LEDs to cool slightly in the off cycle, which prevents them from getting so hot and burning out. However, it is still possible to burn them, so I recommend the resistor. Its cheap protection.LEDs by themselves will take all the current available to them, with no limiting control. Having a resistor in series with them allows you to specify how much current they can have. The value of the resistor depends on the voltage being supplied and the maximum amount of current your LED(s) can handle. For example, with 12 volts and an LED that can handle 30 miliAmps - R=Volt/current - 400=12/.030 - so, a 400 ohm resistor would limit it to .03 amps at 12 volts. I personally would bump that up just a tad, maybe 470 (higher ohms is less current) because LEDs look just about as bright when near (not at) their maximum, but live a lot longer. (FYI, you also have to deal with resistor values, good luck finding a 400 ohm resistor).

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  • How to use 2.4 inch TFT LCD SPFD5408 with Arduino Uno and Mega

    I found a solution to the X/Y axis being swapped, at least for me. Using an Uno with a 2.4 TFT LCD Shield. The controller on the shield is covered, so I don't know what it is. Cheapo from China.In SPFD5408_TouchScreen.cpp:Find the lines that say "int TouchScreen::readTouchX(void)" and "int TouchScreen::readTouchY(void)", and then swap the X and Ys. These are at the end of the file, with just one small section after them.That way every time it wants to read what the X coordinate of the touch is, it receives the Y coordinate instead, and vice versa.That fixed swapping the X and Y axis, but now X is backwards (reads high when it should be low). To fix that, find the line (in the same file, towards the middle) that says "return TSPoint(x, 1023 - y, z);" an...

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    I found a solution to the X/Y axis being swapped, at least for me. Using an Uno with a 2.4 TFT LCD Shield. The controller on the shield is covered, so I don't know what it is. Cheapo from China.In SPFD5408_TouchScreen.cpp:Find the lines that say "int TouchScreen::readTouchX(void)" and "int TouchScreen::readTouchY(void)", and then swap the X and Ys. These are at the end of the file, with just one small section after them.That way every time it wants to read what the X coordinate of the touch is, it receives the Y coordinate instead, and vice versa.That fixed swapping the X and Y axis, but now X is backwards (reads high when it should be low). To fix that, find the line (in the same file, towards the middle) that says "return TSPoint(x, 1023 - y, z);" and change it to "return TSPoint(1100 - x, 1023 - y, z);" This is the same fix that other people have suggested. What this does is take the X value of the touch, and subtract it from 1100, which effectively reverses the X coordinate. Example: If X is 25, it should be on the left, because 0,0 is upper left. However, it is registering at the far right instead because X is backwards. If we subtract it from 1100 (or some number close that works for you, experiment), then 1100-25 = 1075. 1075 should be at the far right, but because X is backwards, it registers at the far left. Ta-Da, fixed.

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