SteveRoy

I have added the Z End Stop stl's to the step

No, the UNO doesn't have enough pins to control the RAMPs board

perfecto

Neither. It's based on the "rework" of the mk1 model that eMotion did.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616I visited the Prusa factory in 2018. If you can afford one of their kits I would say "buy it", if you want to scratch build your own on a budget like I did this will be a good place to start :-)

You should be able to find a 200x300 heated bed and make the Y axis longer with longer threaded and smooth rod. You would also need to change the bed dimensions in the firmware.To get great print quality you need a solid frame, straight X and Y axis smooth rods, a quality hot-end and a flat heat bed - you can't get quality prints if the heat bed is warped by even 1/2 mm as your layers are 1/5 of a mm.

The link didn't post correctly, but from a search on amazon it looks like you are using a mk8 design for the extruder and hot-end? You need a fan blowing over the throat (the cold to hot transition part) all the time. This needs to be powered directly from 12v and not via the D9 cooling fan for the piece being printed.Can you post a picture of the extruder and hot-end setup?You need 2 fans, 1 for the hot-end, the other for cooling the layers as the piece prints. The AMZ3D filament is OK, I have used it in the past.

A couple of questions...1) are you using a genuine Hexagon hot-end or a clone from China?2) Do you have a fan blowing all the time over the fins of the hot-end? If you don't then you can get "heat creep" up the throat of the hot-end tube which causes PLA to swell up and clog3) I assume it's PLA, what brand? Is it a quality brand like filaments.ca or MG Chemicals? Also what temp are you printing at?

For my webcam script (on my planet brand of IP camera) I use "convert" to also stamp the date/time, air temp and lake temp onto the image. My weather station software writes the air temp to a file and the script reads this and stamps it onto the image. I also have a temp sensor in the lake powered by an Arduino with ethernet and get data from that via a "wget" which is also stamped onto the image before it's uploaded to the website.My other project is a year long time lapse - an image every 5 minutes. About 40 minute video for the whole year with most of night time removed.

Hi, I will add the DXF for the plywood frame with braces.

Does the A8 you have come with Z axis auto-level like a probe? Or is it using a regular micro-switch like I use in this build? Are you flashing the Arduino with your own firmware or using it from A8? My first thought is that the firmware could be looking for a probe vs a switch or vice-versa. I don't run classes, but have helped a few people who have brought their kits/builds down to the Vancouver Hackspace.

I've used both. On a 3-wire you can cut off the 3rd wire which is probably for speed control. For my more recent builds I have been buying from a local electronics store and getting "quiet" fans with decent cfm flow

If you remove any filament you could try a "cold extrude" See this page for the M302 gcode http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.htmlIs the correct RAMPs board selected in marlin configuration.h?I haven't fooled around with the pins.h file myself but you could try it on the E1 pins. Though with you trying other RAMPs and Arduino's it suggests something in your Marlin configuration file.Hope this helps. You could also post a question in the reprap forums:https://reprap.org/forum/Steve

approx 295mm

The frame is approx 375mm wide, 370mm high and 6mm thick

The config file is basically a sip login & password for the phone number so you can use it on a device like the Obihai or Linksys ATA adapter. I have successfully used my sip login/password on Obihai, a Linksys ATA and also using FreePBX.It should work with a FritZBox since it is a sip client - but I couldn't guarantee it.Also note that since I first published this Instructable that the cost of a "config file" has gone up to $79.95 and is now called a "VoIP Unlock Key"

Updated on Nov 26th 2017

voip.ms is worth a look. Not free, but I think affordable. When I first started playing around with FreePBX I bought a number from them. It's 85c a month for the number and then pay per minute for calls. Perfect for testing the setup of SIP devices. https://voip.ms

So you have followed these steps exactly?Download the library from Adafruit, the link takes you to the "GitHub" page. Look for the zip file download button.https://github.com/adafruit/DHT-sensor-library Unzip the files into your libraries folder. The best place to unzip to is under your "My Documents\Arduino\Libraries" folder - later if you upgrade the Arduino IDE the library will still be there. If you browse to your libraries folder you should see a new folder named DHT-sensor-library-master Rename it to DHT Connect up your Arduino and start the IDE Look under File -> Examples -> DHT and open DHTtester. You will need to comment the line startng with #define DHTTYPE DHT22 by putting a // in front of it and then uncomment the line starting with //#d…

So you have followed these steps exactly?Download the library from Adafruit, the link takes you to the "GitHub" page. Look for the zip file download button.https://github.com/adafruit/DHT-sensor-library Unzip the files into your libraries folder. The best place to unzip to is under your "My Documents\Arduino\Libraries" folder - later if you upgrade the Arduino IDE the library will still be there. If you browse to your libraries folder you should see a new folder named DHT-sensor-library-master Rename it to DHT Connect up your Arduino and start the IDE Look under File -> Examples -> DHT and open DHTtester. You will need to comment the line startng with #define DHTTYPE DHT22 by putting a // in front of it and then uncomment the line starting with //#define DHTTYPE DHT11by removing the two leading//'s. Upload the sketch then open the serial window. You should see the temperature and humidity level scrolling. If you breathe onto the sensor you should see the temperature and humidity rise. It will take a few seconds as the sensor is slow. You may want to remove all the folders with the libraries that you created and start over, as from the error there is still a DHT-sensor-library-master folder that should have been renamed to DHTSteve

did you rename the unzipped folder from DHT-sensor-library-master to DHT

Great looking build!

Yes. The X-motor and X-idler on thingiverse.com use 5mm threaded rod, the version on their website uses "lead screw". If I was doing another build I would try the lead screw over the 5mm threaded rod.The idler bearing may be different sizes than what I used, but overall the build should be pretty much the same. I would change the Z-axis endstop to be the same as I used in this Instructble.Hope this helps

Thanks, those look like great options

Doh! Thanks, updated

6mm

You will need 3 of the 624 bearings, 2 for the Y-Axis and 1 for the X-AxisI'll update the Instructable

It's not an stl format, it's a dxf for laser cutting or cnc. It's in the list on the intro page "Y Axis Bed.dxf" this is the 4 bearing modified version of the original. The original can be found in "alu-frame.dxf". If you want the nut holders they are on the list as an stl file.

Hi, First you need to check the travel direction to see if it's the motor or end-stop configuration.In pronterface an X plus movement should move ther carriage from left to right, a Y plus movement should move the bed from the back toward the front. If either of these are incorrect then you need to power off the printer from USB and 12v, then flip the x and y connectors that are wrong where they plug into the RAMPs board.In your Marlin configutation.h file you define the endstops as either MIN or MAX.If the X end-stop is on the left side of the frame it's a MIN and definded as -1, if on the right it's a MAX and definded as 1.If the Y end-stop is at the back it's a MIN end-stop and defined as -1, if at the front it's a MAX and defined as 1For the Z motor - did you change the DEFAULT_MAX_F…

Hi, First you need to check the travel direction to see if it's the motor or end-stop configuration.In pronterface an X plus movement should move ther carriage from left to right, a Y plus movement should move the bed from the back toward the front. If either of these are incorrect then you need to power off the printer from USB and 12v, then flip the x and y connectors that are wrong where they plug into the RAMPs board.In your Marlin configutation.h file you define the endstops as either MIN or MAX.If the X end-stop is on the left side of the frame it's a MIN and definded as -1, if on the right it's a MAX and definded as 1.If the Y end-stop is at the back it's a MIN end-stop and defined as -1, if at the front it's a MAX and defined as 1For the Z motor - did you change the DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE value for the Z axis? If it's set to the default 5 the motors will just buzz and not move.You also need to check the driver/stepper voltages.Check step 17 in my revised Instructable on building an i3 printer:https://www.instructables.com/Building-a-Prusa-I...Steve

Wouldn't be better to fix the issue that is causing the printer to be out of alignment? My Prusa i3's have a simple z-axis adjustment that only needs a tweak after many prints. Having z-axis movement during the x & y movement can't be a good thing, the CPU has to work harder, the printing will be slower and really it's compensating for something that isn't right in either the design or build of the printer. Yes I know Jozef Pruda has added leveling to his new MKII i3.

I got mine off a local hackspace member - try your local hack/maker space or check ebay.

HiThe cost was around $500 to $550 CDN $$It's approx 18" x 18" in footprint, though with this one I didn't mount the power supply and RAMPs to the frame like I did with the plywood frame one.As for weight, not sure, I guess a kg or two?

Hi, thanks for the feedback - I have recently finished a new Instructable on the i3 rework with more details on parts of the build and also a better z-endstop design.I haven't tried the protoboard as a bed for ABS, though reading up on it you would print a "raft" that your piece sits on. This would be done when slicing the model and creating the cgode. The benefit to ABD is that it is less brittle than PLA, so if you were printing parts that snap together then PLA may break. Like the pins used in this design - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:243278I found ABS was better in this case.However I find ABS harder to print with in that changes in the ambient temperature in the room cause pieces to lift or curl off the print bed. For ABS I use buildtak for the print surface and hea…

Hi, thanks for the feedback - I have recently finished a new Instructable on the i3 rework with more details on parts of the build and also a better z-endstop design.I haven't tried the protoboard as a bed for ABS, though reading up on it you would print a "raft" that your piece sits on. This would be done when slicing the model and creating the cgode. The benefit to ABD is that it is less brittle than PLA, so if you were printing parts that snap together then PLA may break. Like the pins used in this design - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:243278I found ABS was better in this case.However I find ABS harder to print with in that changes in the ambient temperature in the room cause pieces to lift or curl off the print bed. For ABS I use buildtak for the print surface and heat the bed to 65c. I also use a box around the printer to keep the heat constant. At the hackspace we use an Ikea table (the "lack") upside down with acrylic panels around it. If you use a heat chamber like that it's suggested the printer parts themselves be made from ABS rather that PLA.All that being said I almost always use PLA - It's just easier to print with.

Thanks, it takes a lot to write an Instructable this long as I try be as detailed as I can and also explain why I do things the way I do.Cheers

Thanks for the great feedback. I hear good things about the Mendal90 design and a member of our hackspace has a couple of them.My dislike of acrylic frames and clone hotends comes from helping people with the cheap, cheap kits. I know there are plenty of people who have acrylic i3 frames and $10.00 hotends who are doing decent prints. I hear (and read on the forums) how people want to buy the cheapest kits, build them, then upgrade the components. I like to build things one, not twice.I have helped people with replikeo kits and they were pretty decent, metal frame etcCheers

Sorry that should read - "a heat bed ISN'T 100% necessary for PLA"

Check in order...In pronterface:An X + should move the x-axis to the right, if it doesn't, reverse the motor connector on the RAMPs board.A Y + should move the bed toward the front, if it doesn't, reverse the motor connector on the RAMPs boardA Z - should move the carriage down, if it doesn't reverse the motor connector on the RAMPs board.The Z end-stop is at the bottom and therefore a MIN. If the X end-stop is on the left it's a MIN, if it's on the right it's a MAX. If the Y end-stop is at the back it's a MIN, if it's at the front it's a MAX. Make sure it's correct in your Marlin firmware and also on the correct MIN or MAX pins on the RAMPs.Test with a M119 in pronterface, that will show the end-stop status.Disconnect the 12V power supply and plus in via USB. With your multi-meter set…

Check in order...In pronterface:An X + should move the x-axis to the right, if it doesn't, reverse the motor connector on the RAMPs board.A Y + should move the bed toward the front, if it doesn't, reverse the motor connector on the RAMPs boardA Z - should move the carriage down, if it doesn't reverse the motor connector on the RAMPs board.The Z end-stop is at the bottom and therefore a MIN. If the X end-stop is on the left it's a MIN, if it's on the right it's a MAX. If the Y end-stop is at the back it's a MIN, if it's at the front it's a MAX. Make sure it's correct in your Marlin firmware and also on the correct MIN or MAX pins on the RAMPs.Test with a M119 in pronterface, that will show the end-stop status.Disconnect the 12V power supply and plus in via USB. With your multi-meter set to 2v DC scale check the voltage between ground and the pot on each driver in turn. They should read around .7vIf the Z-axis still buzzes check this line in your Marlin configuration.h#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25}Steve

Yes you can salvage steppers from old printers or scanners. I would look for any NEMA 17 sized and try them.http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motorA heated bed is 100% necessary for PLA but I think it helps. A local Vancouver 3D printer manufacturer makes a PLA only printer without a heated bed. We have one at our hackspace and it gets plenty of use and works well with blue painters tape on the glass. You could also add a brim to your print when slicing to add more surface area on the bed.

Thanks, I am working on an updated version of the Instructable using the "rework" design and a Hexagon 1.75 nozzle.Cost was approx $600 Canadian. More than the cheap China kits, but the quality way better.

Put the Z endstop at the bottom, use this design:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:394903Make it a MIN endstop in your Marlin configuration and makesure it's on the MIN pins on the RAMPs board

You should be fine, just use the Instructable as a guide. email me with any questionsSteve

No difference really - my new build is using 350mm and they should be just fine

Normal. The 6-32 nuts are "chunky" or have a large face, so there is plenty of contact with the t-slot. I am doing a new Instructable on my latest build which has improvements on the z-axis end stop (and adjustment), nut holders for the bed leveling and a 1.75mm filament extruder and hot-end

pretty sure it's something to do with the thermistor, check your Marlin for the correct thermistor type and also check the thermistor connection to the RAMPs board. Measure the resistance of the thermistor to make sure it's not shorted.

Do you get it working up to Step 3? Wiring up the sensor and reading the temp on the Arduino serial port?

The bridging between a POTS line and VoIP line is what make the ObiHai 110 and above different from the usual ATA adapters.

with the suggested 1.8 degree stepper motor you need 200 steps to do a rotation. With 3.75 degree stepper motors you need 96 steps to do a rotation, so while technically it could work you would have less than 1/2 the resolution of a 1.8 degree stepper. Why not use what is suggested in the Instructable?

Hi, I never did a complete BOM for the nuts and bolts - mainly because there isn't enough time in the day to look at every bolt on the printer and figure out if it's an 18, 20 or 22 etc. Rather we bought an assorted size of M3 bolts in 50 packs, so I would say M3x22 will be fine and if you find you need something longer then try a mom & pop store. For example locally in Vancouver, Canada we have Pacific Fasteners, Canadian Stainless Fasteners etc all smaller fastener specialty stores that stock metric fasteners. Hope this helps

Setup port forwarding from your router.

I usually change the MOSFET with a IRLB8743PBFI also bought myself one of these RAMPS https://www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps-14-sb-premium/https://www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps...

Are you doing a Y "home" in pronterface first and tripping the ends stop switch? Are your end stops working. The printer needs to know the start point (home) before it will move the full 200mm in the opposite direction.