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SuperRistopaha.

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I am into a lot of things but mostly metal casting, parametric 3d cad, 3d printing, rc airplanes and so on.
  • Bronze Bell From 3D Printing

    I made a Vaporeon and a large vase using exactly this process. The Vaporeon weighs about 7.5 kg, it is mostly hollow. The vase weighs about 16.5kg and it was first 3d printed and then wrapped with 10mm hemp rope to create the surface texture.

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  • SuperRistopaha. commented on randofo's instructable Secret Drawer Lock

    When trying to find the correct position of the striking plate ... use modeling wax or blue tack.... form a thin sheet of it and stick to the presumed position. Then slide in the drawer and activate the locks bolt. In this case you would have to temporarily apply power when sliding in the drawer and then release the bolt to leave a mark in the modeling wax / blue tack etc. Works well in all kinds of window / door lock / latch / bolt installation jobs.

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  • WOW! The amount of effort you put into the project and the instructable is amazing! You must have spent a ton of time! Really nice!

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  • Some people put tar paper between the lower beam and the foundation wall to prevent possible moisture from rising into the wall structure.Even if they have the pressure treated lower beam. Another cool "quick and dirty" way to attach the lower beam to the foundation is put some pieces of rebar rod vertically into the concrete, then drill the hole into the lower beam and after threading it through bending the rebar with a sledge hammer... its a very common way to do it in the country I live. But on my own house I also used bolts ....

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  • Hello Dr. Dave, thanks for your feedback. I supposed that "shelf life" always refers to the product being stored within the parameters (temp., light, moisture etc...) given by the manufacturer. Any product can of course be destroyed in a short time by poor storage. That is basically what this instructable is about, the storage aspect. From the instructable though I got the impression that even with optimal storage there is this shelf life issue. And some people are probably mixing the two together in all different combinations and the discussion leads nowhere. So what really interests me is this shelf life issue when you have the condition of optimal storage given. After reading this I googled some other forums about this and the discussions basically follow this patterns: First…

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    Hello Dr. Dave, thanks for your feedback. I supposed that "shelf life" always refers to the product being stored within the parameters (temp., light, moisture etc...) given by the manufacturer. Any product can of course be destroyed in a short time by poor storage. That is basically what this instructable is about, the storage aspect. From the instructable though I got the impression that even with optimal storage there is this shelf life issue. And some people are probably mixing the two together in all different combinations and the discussion leads nowhere. So what really interests me is this shelf life issue when you have the condition of optimal storage given. After reading this I googled some other forums about this and the discussions basically follow this patterns: First person: Oh no my manufacturer said that my filaments have a shelf life. And it is really short too! Second Person: Store your filaments like this..... and you wont have any of those problems. Third Person: Plastics do degrade over time even in optimal storage and it depends on your material etc... ;-)So I actually just wondered where the 12 month statement in the instructable came from. Experience?

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  • I would like to hear more about the expected "lifespan" of filaments. This is the first place ever that I hear about it and it kind of shocked me. What happens to the filaments when they exceed the expected best before date? Why isn't that marked on the spools and communicated by the manufactures if that's a serious issue? I at least have never noticed that information anywhere yet. I guess it might be in some manufactures datasheets then....not the ones I have used though.

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  • Nice, I wonder more about the dimensions and hydrodynamics, what would be the best shape and size to make standing up on it easier. Also in Finland we have a very good budget solution for this. We have XPS foam sheets called "Finnfoam". They are available in different sizes but the 100x600x2500 sheet costs about € 15 piece and you can just throw it in the water and start paddeling. My kids do that all summer. Works pretty well for an adult also but the sheet bends a bit, maybe for adult use two wooden spars should be added for stiffness. The foam remains in good shape for a long time and could even be re-used afterwards. Also it could easily be shaped with a hot wire cutter, rasp, saw, cutter, etc.

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  • Thanks for investing all that time to do those tests so others may be much quicker to find their optimal settings for their material!

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  • SuperRistopaha. commented on MakeHaven's instructable Casting Coasters

    You could always model up a 3d design in e.g. Fusion360 and 3d print your positives / negatives for casting. I do metal casting like that... ok so a 3d printer is technically a CNC machine but usually people have a larger chance of getting one than a cnc router. Also libraries often offer 3d printers to be used or friends have one... or use 3d hubs to find someone in your area to help with the print.

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  • Hello,one question: Is you model solid bronze all the way through or did you make an inner core at some point? I would think that you need it on larger sculptures otherwise they will be very heavy and costly?

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  • Wow! This is a real "Swiss Quality" Instructable! Nowadays many people find it hard to focus on one subject for a prologed period of time and dig deep into one subject as sensational distractions are just one touch screen swipe away... very nice. Thank you for your effort.

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  • I have been looking for something like this a long time! Great!

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  • Hello Marikachan,could you explain how you make the models hollow, I mean I am guessing the final cat head sculpture is not solid bronze (as you said it would be heavy and expensive...) so how do you make it hollow? Unfortunately I can't understand that even though I read your instructable twice to make sure I don't ask a question already answered in your text. Otherwise nice and I like cats!

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  • Hi,would it be OK to give some comments on the aluminum cast? I am also just starting out on this hobby but I have some info that might make your casts come out in more detail next time. First of all the gypsum mold is one of your issues, it is not a good material for metal casting unless you go through some additional steps before the cast / and or mix in some other ingredients. Gypsum contains chemically bound / crystalline water, about 20% by weight. I work in the fire protection industry and we use this to our advantage when protecting metal structures from fires. When heated the gypsum gives off this water starting at a bit under 100 celsius. This whater turns to steam (which is again much bigger by volume than water itself (think steam engines e.g.) Because of all the steam trying t…

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    Hi,would it be OK to give some comments on the aluminum cast? I am also just starting out on this hobby but I have some info that might make your casts come out in more detail next time. First of all the gypsum mold is one of your issues, it is not a good material for metal casting unless you go through some additional steps before the cast / and or mix in some other ingredients. Gypsum contains chemically bound / crystalline water, about 20% by weight. I work in the fire protection industry and we use this to our advantage when protecting metal structures from fires. When heated the gypsum gives off this water starting at a bit under 100 celsius. This whater turns to steam (which is again much bigger by volume than water itself (think steam engines e.g.) Because of all the steam trying to escape from under the aluminum you have all the bubbles in your cast and as the aluminum cools (also a side effect of the steam) the pockets remain in the cast. Depending on your taste of style this may be desirable but for most it is not. Secondly you have an open mold and sections of different thickness in your cast. Different areas cool down and shrink at different speeds. Normally in sand casting one tries to offset this effect by including a large sprue into the multi part mold into which the aluminum is then cast. It should be thicker than the thickest part of your cast and ideally be able to feed more molten aluminum into the cooling cast and such prevent shrinkage. Thirdly for any casting in which you want the cast surface to remain decoratively visible I suggest using OBB (Europe) or Petrobond (USA ....and others?) sand which is a very fine casting sand bonded by oil and making a two part mold. The surface finish can be very impressively detailed and the cooling will be more uniform. The sand does not contain water (also not chemically bound / crystalline water) so you don't have issues with the steam. The two part mold helps with the uniform cooling. Also you should "design for casting" taking into account the thin and thick section issues etc. as much as possible.Of course I understand if you don't want to order any special casting sand for one piece of casting.... sometimes one wants to experiment with the materials at hand.

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  • Thank you RA Shah and oppie for your answers! They are going to help me a lot!

    Hi,I am wondering if anybody knows of some way to control an ESC without an RC receiver and remote control. I would like to use these motors in some simple projects around the house but rather than to control them like in an RC plane or car I would like to change their speed with a potentiometer for example. Is there any easy way to achieve this? Some circuit to give the correct type of input pulses to the ESC?

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  • This is the first thing I have ever made off of instructables. I was very encouraged by this easy to understand instructable and made this with my son who has flown it intensively already. (As you can see by the many tape re-enforncements.) We damaged one motor by crashing to many times but then we moved it more inside the plane as can be seen on the photos. This helps a lot to save the motor during crashes. Our Hobbyking experience was a bit nerve wrecking though, very long delivery times, stuff going out of stock while waiting for other parts to come back into stock and being forced to split the order into many packages even though they are very light and small. Hobbyking wants to profit from shipping I have the feeling. Anyway without them we would not have made this.

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