Tatterhood

Your costume sounds amazing! The addition of making markers available for people to add to the graffiti is genius (hm, I should have handed out waffles!)I felt a sort of kinship when I went to a party and saw someone dressed as 'Nakatomi Plaza' from Die Hard - we were both thrilled to see another person happily-wearing/trapped in a box costume!

You look amazing!!!

If you have just 'regular' liquid latex, you shouldn't need to thin it out - especially since thinning it can be a pain too! Only if it's specifically 'slush latex' or 'mask latex' or 'monster maker latex' or '407 latex' would you have to try to do that (but I'd just recommend getting 'liquid latex' in that case)Maybe also add a few more bandages to the outside to strengthen it a bit more too. I'm eager to see how it turns out!

It looks like you used Plaster of Paris bandages instead of Ultra Cal + cheesecloth. Based on that: there is a possibility it might have not cured all the way, which is why it pieces were falling apart. During the application process, joining pieces might not have been smoothed together/layered at too long an interval to blend well together. With a UC30 mold, you could spray and wash out the clay - but DON'T DO THAT if this is plaster of paris mold; you will just destroy your hard work. I'm afraid you're going to have to carefully scrap out the clay. I've heard some people have used the microwave to melt the clay, but I have never tried that so I cannot recommend it. With the sharp edges, you'll have to carefully trim them down with scissors/an exacto knife, sand, and add a bit of 'fill...

It looks like you used Plaster of Paris bandages instead of Ultra Cal + cheesecloth. Based on that: there is a possibility it might have not cured all the way, which is why it pieces were falling apart. During the application process, joining pieces might not have been smoothed together/layered at too long an interval to blend well together. With a UC30 mold, you could spray and wash out the clay - but DON'T DO THAT if this is plaster of paris mold; you will just destroy your hard work. I'm afraid you're going to have to carefully scrap out the clay. I've heard some people have used the microwave to melt the clay, but I have never tried that so I cannot recommend it. With the sharp edges, you'll have to carefully trim them down with scissors/an exacto knife, sand, and add a bit of 'filler' clay to help with the edges.In my tutorial, I say to use Ultra Cal 30; there's a few reasons behind this. Ultra Cal 30 captures a lot of detail, cures very hard, can hold up to water, and ye it is great at absorbing moisture. So when you pour slush latex into an ultra cal mold, the mold will suck all the moisture out of the latex, while staying solid.If you try to do the slush latex method on your plaster mold, there's a chance it will not be able to pull all the moisture out of the latex. The latex will either be uncured and/or your mold may fall apart. What you will have to do is brush thin layers of *liquid* latex (the thinner stuff) inside the mold. You may be able to slush around the liquid latex instead of brushing it on, but don't do too thick of a coat. You'll have to wait for it to dry before doing another layer - you will need *lots* of them to get a durable head.I hope that is of some assistance to you.

Sorry - I chose a lousy font! Bigger versions of the comics are available on my website or deviantart site.https://tatter-hood.deviantart.com/art/How-to-Make-an-Asari-Latex-Headpiece-296400670http://www.tatterhood.com/category/comics/bluegirl...

Sorry, this one is already sold! (And I don't make new ones and sell them.)

I made them with "Shrinky Dinks" - plastic that shrinks and thickens as it gets heated up. So following that vein, I would suggest making them out of Worbla (and craft foam)

(or just skip the plastic stuff all together - get thee to a dollar store and grab a sheet of thin craft foam and cut the teeth straight out of that! In the end what counts for the teeth is how they're painted!)

Craft foam helps strengthen (and bulk up) your Worbla - so you take a piece of thin foam and sandwich it between two pieces of Worbla. Now, since they are just teeth, you may be fine with just cutting them out of one piece of Worbla. Or you may find you have to fold and double-up your Worbla - or it may look best with the foam in the middle. Because Worbla is expensive stuff, I'd say just go for the one piece if it looks right!... actually, I'd probably end up cutting up like a yogurt lid or milk jug; save that precious pricey Worbla!

Walking was fine.Running? Nope. Raising my arms? Not happening. Sitting down? AHAHAHA.(A lot of the foam-covered-latex-pieces, including the backer-rod, were over joints so bending my waist, knees and elbows was tricky)

Oooh, that's a great idea (and vendor to get it from!) for safety/no-metal-prop-allowed-venues. I've recently discovered aluminum tape (to use for swords) - and there's gold tape too! Another good substitute if brass is hard to come by (or, er, is not allowed)

Don't let that discourage you - there's youtube, the library, even classes on Instructables, that will teach you how to sew! Just think of how cool it is to learn how to do something new.

With a sewing machine! :DI made a mockup of both the shirt and pants using Burda 7742 and McCall's M6173. You're supposed to use stretchy material for those patterns, but I used a non-stretch fabric for my mockups, and used less than 4 1/2 yards of fabric for that.For the shirt (as an example) I put together a basic top using the pattern pieces provided - so you're sewing two arms, a front half and a back half together. Then I tested that on my body to see how that fit - keeping in mind that a zipper would be going on the back, so the shirt can fit tightly. Once pleased with the fit, I drew a patch-work pattern on the shirt, and cut out those pattern pieces, labeling them as I went (so you knew what would be sewn to what). Then, adding a seam allowance to all the pattern pieces, I cut t...

With a sewing machine! :DI made a mockup of both the shirt and pants using Burda 7742 and McCall's M6173. You're supposed to use stretchy material for those patterns, but I used a non-stretch fabric for my mockups, and used less than 4 1/2 yards of fabric for that.For the shirt (as an example) I put together a basic top using the pattern pieces provided - so you're sewing two arms, a front half and a back half together. Then I tested that on my body to see how that fit - keeping in mind that a zipper would be going on the back, so the shirt can fit tightly. Once pleased with the fit, I drew a patch-work pattern on the shirt, and cut out those pattern pieces, labeling them as I went (so you knew what would be sewn to what). Then, adding a seam allowance to all the pattern pieces, I cut them out of leather and then stitched them together!If that all still has you going 'huh?' ... do a simple sewing project for practice (and there are lots of tutorials online/here that will get you started)

I ordered 200 (4 sets) of 6-8inch saddle rooster feathers (from here http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-50pcs-Saddle-Badger-Rooster-feathers-6-8-inch-Multicolor-colours-Optional-/200721003404?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160) plus 100 of 12-14inch saddle feathers (the store I got them from is no longer up, but you should be able to find them on ebay)

"Honey, can I do an alginate life cast of your face...for...no reason..." ;)

About 12ft; a mix of greys and some white.

The shoulder pads I made were soft - I'd actually recommend just buying some thick foam and shaping it! I think that'd be more comfortable and lighter than having rigid ones. For the fabric, you'll want something with a looser weave (or even visible tiny tiny holes) - something that you should be able to easily put the end of a feather through. Hope that helps!

Ok! Ask away :) (Feel free to send me a PM)