Texas_Mike

This is a wonderful process. I have a very rusty but structurally strong late 1960s early 1970s Sears Mini Bike that I've started to restore. Now, all of the metal parts are completely rust free. Instead of a 5 gallon bucket I had to use a 60 Gallon plastic trash can to submerge the frame. I simply added a proportionately larger amount of Super Soda. Totally excellent Instructable. Thank you for posting it.

Thank you for the clarification. The pot would be used like those in a Joystick to translate human position into an analog signal, then to an ADC for digital processing.

If you don't have an electrical schematic of what's inside the fixture (Light / Sensor). Post the name and model number of the fixture and maybe we can look it up. Basically you can probably do it, but how to properly do it requires more info. Be aware that if all the circuitry is on a printed circuit board, it is probably to advanced for a novice to attempt. Pictures are helpful too if you can remove the housing and expose the interior wiring / components. Another suggestion is to email the manufacturer and ask them, of course anything you do to the fixture will probably void any warranty.

Hi, You left out some important info that needs to be considered for a proper answer. Approximately how far away is the gate from your guest house? If it's only maybe 200 feet or less you could run / bury a CAT5 Cable from the gate to the guest house. CAT 5 has 8 wires inside it. These 8 wires can be used to connect a second intercom and a SPST MOM (single pole single throw momentary contact) switch to activate the gate motor. Extra wires can be wired to increase the Current limit of individual wires and lower the resistance of a single conductor. How many wires will be needed depends on the intercom and gate control system. I would start by getting all of the Gate Motor and Gate Intercom Info (especially the schematic) and also research with the supplier if a piggyback system is availa...

Hi, You left out some important info that needs to be considered for a proper answer. Approximately how far away is the gate from your guest house? If it's only maybe 200 feet or less you could run / bury a CAT5 Cable from the gate to the guest house. CAT 5 has 8 wires inside it. These 8 wires can be used to connect a second intercom and a SPST MOM (single pole single throw momentary contact) switch to activate the gate motor. Extra wires can be wired to increase the Current limit of individual wires and lower the resistance of a single conductor. How many wires will be needed depends on the intercom and gate control system. I would start by getting all of the Gate Motor and Gate Intercom Info (especially the schematic) and also research with the supplier if a piggyback system is available for your situation. I hope this helps. If not shoot me a message.Have a great dayTexas Mike

Wheels, Clever Mechanisms, Steam / Diesel Punk, MMO Gaming and VR HIDs, Electric Vehicles, Leather / Fabric, Gadgetry, Mars Colonization :) and Indiegogo / Kickstarter Collaborations. I prefer open ended to specific.

Hi, I just checked it out, Looks Good. I did a brief search and it didn't come up when I was doing my planning. I probably used the wrong tag ques. I especially like the camera mounting arc. You and I have similar thoughts on the subject. Instead of creating a travel arc I was thinking about a "Y" shaped camera mount arm with the two Upper Y arms attached on opposing sides of the model mount out of the cameras field of view. The fixed arc guide has less spatially intrusion but limits the size of models, as the arc curvature must change as you pull back from the model. I also like your use of plywood. 10 years ago, I created a single seat, enclosed aircraft cockpit simulator that moved 60 degrees in both pitch (Y) and roll (X) made of plywood resting on wheels. It worked great....

Hi, I just checked it out, Looks Good. I did a brief search and it didn't come up when I was doing my planning. I probably used the wrong tag ques. I especially like the camera mounting arc. You and I have similar thoughts on the subject. Instead of creating a travel arc I was thinking about a "Y" shaped camera mount arm with the two Upper Y arms attached on opposing sides of the model mount out of the cameras field of view. The fixed arc guide has less spatially intrusion but limits the size of models, as the arc curvature must change as you pull back from the model. I also like your use of plywood. 10 years ago, I created a single seat, enclosed aircraft cockpit simulator that moved 60 degrees in both pitch (Y) and roll (X) made of plywood resting on wheels. It worked great. Plywood, when applied with proper planning, can produce extremely strong and rigid curved structures that are relatively lite weight. Before you ask, I didn't take any photos, but I still have the CAD drawings.My use of Photogrammetry (besides being novel and fun) was to easily create meshes for a throttle, joystick and chair to include in the 3D model of a home MMO gaming flight simulator I'm building. I can get a little anal too, when it comes to exactness and so I had to build a turntable. I need to find a 12 step recovery program for that anal condition :)Have a Great Weekend - Happy Making

Thank You very much for the comments. You are right about the measurements. Other than my Ego, I literally have a big head :) So I have to enlarge the pattern to fit me. I studied lots of side profile pictures when deciding where to place the ear cups and I discovered that ears not only come in different sizes and shapes but they are not exactly aligned with other features. I've been doing a little research to determine percentages of scale to make multiple cutout lines on one pattern so the material cuts can be adjusted to size. Styro's head is 21" or fitted hat size 6.75 and my head is 23.5" fit size 7 1/2. When I'm ready to cut material, I'll make plenty of seam allowance and pin the material for size 7 1/2. Then I can compare the two sizes of surface panels and extrapolate...

Thank You very much for the comments. You are right about the measurements. Other than my Ego, I literally have a big head :) So I have to enlarge the pattern to fit me. I studied lots of side profile pictures when deciding where to place the ear cups and I discovered that ears not only come in different sizes and shapes but they are not exactly aligned with other features. I've been doing a little research to determine percentages of scale to make multiple cutout lines on one pattern so the material cuts can be adjusted to size. Styro's head is 21" or fitted hat size 6.75 and my head is 23.5" fit size 7 1/2. When I'm ready to cut material, I'll make plenty of seam allowance and pin the material for size 7 1/2. Then I can compare the two sizes of surface panels and extrapolate multiple size stitch lines on one pattern. If you have any other suggestions please post them.Thanks again for the comments, they are always appreciated.

Excellent on many Levels - Hey, next weekend can you knock out a version of the Animusic - Pipe Dream Machine :) Seriously Though..Great Job ...Thanks for Sharinghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xu-A0jqMPd8

Good Job...Love the Intro :)

Thank You Very Much. Your critique and compliment is much appreciated. Especially so, when it comes from one, experienced in the art.

How about another Wheels Contest?

Very Cool - Thanks for going into detail. Seeing how it's done is inspiring to fellow creators. Look forward to seeing more. Good luck in the finals.

Great presentation - photos are fantastic - subject matter appetizing - Good Job

Guilty - Native :)

Awesome Dude - Now I know what I'm going to do with my 55 gal. drum. Thanks for the concept and inspiration.

Thank you for checking out my efforts and commenting. Comments, critiques and suggestions are always welcome.