TheWoodKnight

As StumpChunkman said, for storing and dispensing salt. In our kitchen, we have both kosher salt and bigger flakey sea salt for cooking and baking.

*Theoretically*, if you use woods that have particular allergic reactions, you could potentially have an issue. However, that has to be a wood that is toxic/causes reactions based on *contact* rather than only on dust inhalation, or micro particles from chopping on it (if it was a chopping board).Otherwise, no, no issue with raw wood contact. The salt will more or less preserve the inside of the cellar.

The key on the underside of the stop prevents it from rotating. With just a single knob and no key, you can get it pretty tight that deflection is minimal, but the key basically eliminates it.If you take a run up trying to deflect it, yes, it will cause issues but it's not that type of jig. As it is, its a huge upgrade from the alternative, which would be just eyeballing it, even if it has +/-0.5mm deflection. If you really wanted to make it never deflect, a second t-track on the backstop + second locking knob would be best. A slight step down from that would be two locking knobs on one track. Either way, a key would be recommended to help keep it square as its being moved.

That looks fantastic! The facetted draw pull is great too!

For extra adjustments of the clamp/stops. In my case, I didn't need them, but on differently shaped objects you might :)

Thanks Jessy. Writing up the actual documentation was almost as hard as the building!

Yes. Ideally you'd actually use a 1-3/8" (34.925mm) forstner bit for the recess, but 35mm is pretty common because of euro-hinges/System32 construction. As for the rest of the bits, I'm not sure what their equivalent is.

Sorry for the delay - the acrylic ended up being 110mm (width of the router) x 210mm (width of the A4 sized acrylic sheet). The 210 isn't overly critical, just depends on how much overhang you want to have

The clamp is built into that particular drill press, the Bosch PBD40

There is no universal 'best bit' for all circumstances - different fonts, even different letters, how much text there is, what look you're going for etc will determine what bit or bits are the best solution. A really chunky font might require a lot of material to be removed, so an 1/8" downcut bit *may* speed things up by a magnitude, though if its flowing cursive, a 60degree v-bit might be all you need.

The laser carving makes it look freaking cool - much more like a battle ready mallet now!

You really only do need a tiny pinch of table salt (and you dont' have to add to taste), you don't need to add it over the entire surface, just like if using CA as an intermediate bonding agent, a few dots will do.The problem with sliding around with this project is the mortise can become misaligned (so the solution then would be to either chisel out the mortise or readjust the tenon), and because of its relatively small nature can be difficult to get sufficient clamping force on without it sliding. Gluing two layers at a time (rather than all three) also helps make that a non-issue.Also if you let the salt sit too long in the glue before clamping, it'd dissolve.

Pretty sure that'd be how I'd end up shaving my beard (and maybe some skin) off :)

I didn't put "table saw" in the title, and it isn't showing up as having table saw in the title (I just titled it "Make Accurate Dowels"). If it was there, that'd be the Instructables editors. :/

In step 2, I start with the text "To make the dowels, we feed square stock through a block, over a router table. "So... good guess ;)

If it helps, my router table is built into the wing of my table saw ;)

Router bit does the cutting in a router table, which the block is clamped over. Table saw is just to dimension the dowel blanks.