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TimGTech

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  • HackerBox 0066: Radio Star

    Trivia... Who noticed the silkscreen typo? :)

    Thanks. I thought it would work better this way. Had to take the little piece off and bend it, then solder it on. I didn't have it space out enough at first. It would hit the display so had to move it out a tad.

    Correct! :)

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0066: Radio Star
    HackerBox 0066: Radio Star

    Great Box as usual! I arranged my antenna a bit differently.

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  • HackerBox 0065: Realtime

    If you have discovered that your time is off and you recompile the code and upload it and it does not update the time, add the following to the void setup().rtc.begin(); rtc.adjust(DateTime(F(__DATE__), F(__TIME__)));I have found these RTC chips to not hold their time very well even when supplied with a good battery. After having it off for a day and a half the time is lagging by over 40 min. That's no problem. We can have it connect to WiFI once a day and sync the time from a time server. As long as power is supplied, it does keep very accurate time.

    If you are positive you are missing that component I would send an email to support@hackerboxes.com. You will need it in order to plug the board directly to to the matrix panel.

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0065: Realtime
    HackerBox 0065: Realtime

    Great Box. You can never have enough of these displays. Pay close attention to the warning about powering it solely from the Micro-USB port!

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0064: Scope
    HackerBox 0064: Scope

    Great box to provide a DIY tool that you almost need to have doing electronics. Got the o-scope done... Now on to the function generator!

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0060: Playground
    HackerBox 0060: Playground

    Cool box this month. These CPX boards are great!

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  • HackerBox 0060: Playground

    These kinds of nuts are commonly used on PCB assemblies. Use the nuts on the CPX side. Screw heads go on the back side of the ghost board. Then all is right with the world. :)

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  • HackerBox 0059: Tessellate

    Sure no problem. It is a demo actually in the FastLED library. In Arduino IDE go to -> Examples -> FastLED -> DemoReel100Also make sure to set the correct NUM_LEDS and DATA_PIN = 25:)

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0059: Tessellate
    HackerBox 0059: Tessellate

    Here's a video of mine. :) I'll put it on the Christmas tree.

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  • HackerBox 0059: Tessellate

    If you have spare header pins they work fantastic! You can cut and bend them to any angle you need.

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  • HackerBox 0057: Safe Mode

    No its optional but ideal if you want to wear it. Otherwise you would need a USB power bank of some sorts to power over USB.

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  • HackerBox 0053: Chromalux

    This is a great place especially if has to do with a hackerbox. There a lot of Facebook Arduino groups as well. :)

    On Facebook Specifically, look for a group called "Arduino Projects" It seems like a pretty good group. Unfortunately they are all going to have some not-so-nice folks on there. There is also the Hackerboxes Facebook group too. You can always take short videos of what you have and post here or there.

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  • HackerBox 0051: MCU Lab

    Here's an easy demo code using the potentiometer and the OLED Display with the ESP32 Wemos Lolin32 board:Using Library: https://github.com/ThingPulse/esp8266-oled-ssd130... (install from Library manager)Demo video: https://youtu.be/46lIM4dYPDcCode:#include "SSD1306Wire.h" #include <Wire.h>// Initialize the OLED displaySSD1306Wire display(0x3c, 5, 4); // On ESP32 Lolin: SDA=5 SCL=4void setup() { // Initializing the display display.init(); display.flipScreenVertically(); }void loop() { display.clear(); int potval = analogRead(2); String val = String(potval); display.setFont(ArialMT_Plain_24); display.drawString(0, 10, "Value: " + val); display.display(); delay(10);}

    OLED Demo on the Lolin32

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0051: MCU Lab
    HackerBox 0051: MCU Lab

    This is a fantastic tool! Great box!

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      • HackerBox 0050
      • HackerBox 0049: Debug
      • HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT
  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0050
    HackerBox 0050

    This was a great #50 box. I remember from box #20 the difficulties and mess ups I had soldering the LEDs on the board (which some day I will get around to fixing). The SF video was a good tip and learning from my previous mistakes I almost pulled this one off without a hitch. Apparently I did not solder the EN well enough and was not making contact with the pad. After mush connection tracing I finally discovered that. I re-soldered it and was good to go! Everything is working as it should. :)

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  • TimGTech commented on HackerBoxes's instructable HackerBox 0049: Debug
    HackerBox 0049: Debug

    Assuming everyone received the exact same matrix board, it is also compatible with Adafruit's NeoPixel library. You can load it and use the StrandTest example. Set Data_Pin to A14 and Num_Pixels = 64 and should work just fine. For that matter, any of the examples should work.

    Just as a side note - you can also select the ESP32 Wrover board. It is almost the same board.

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0049: Debug
    HackerBox 0049: Debug

    These LED matrix displays are great! I always refer to them as NeoPixels. The FastLED library examples seem to work fine. The display seems to be fully compatible with Adafruit's NeoPixel library. Just set the correct Data_Pin. You can never have enough of these things and ESP32 boards either. I attached a pic and short video.

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  • HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT

    Thanks jdquaff! I'm gonna play with it more this weekend. I'll post back here with my results.

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  • HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT

    Did you use the includd .ino sketch with the library and if so, did you have to make any modificaions to it? Thanks :)

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  • HackerBox 0048: SIMSAT

    No problem, glad that worked. :) It can take a little bit for the receiver to get a lock on the satellites. When I hooked it up for the first time it was in a hotel room and I had to move the GPS antenna near a window to finally get it.

    I ran into a similar problem in the past and what I did was go into the C:\Users\You\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages and delete the esp8266 directory completely. The reinstall the board using the board URL in he bard manager.

    Just to be sure, Did you install the Sim808 Library in the Arduino IDE?

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  • HackerBox 0047: Old School

    The VGA connector was a bit of a bugger but I got it all soldered up. I followed the TinyBasic instructable and I am running BASIC programs on an Arduino. Eat your heart out MicroPython! ;)Tip: If you are having problems uploading sketches after the boards are soldered on the PCB. While a sketch is uploading to one of them, hold down the Reset on the other. That worked for me.

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  • HackerBox 0046: Persistence

    Awesome! Glad you got it! :)

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  • HackerBox 0046: Persistence

    To no surprise there are some counterfeit 18650 batteries out there. The way to tell is either by dissecting one or be their weight. search on Youtube and you will find tons of videos on it. Here is one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4RfYufeFhc

    I have the same issue with the red being very faint. I think that's just the way it is unfortunately, I have tried all sorts of stuff and still no better.

    Hmm... I just downloaded the .ino that I posted just to make sure it was ok. It uploaded just fine. It till does take up a fair amount of room and its possible you might get a low memory warning, but it should not be too big.This i my result after uploading:Sketch uses 27940 bytes (86%) of program storage space. Maximum is 32256 bytes.Global variables use 1510 bytes (73%) of dynamic memory, leaving 538 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.Do you have the Arduino/Genuino selected as your board?Also, try commenting out this line:// display.drawBitmap(BitmapExample1, sizeof(BitmapExample1));If you did not follow the other steps regarding the skull image that could be the cause.This code is dependent on having done that but commenting out this line should work around it.

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  • HackerBox 0046: Persistence

    These displays are awesome!

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  • HackerBox 0046: Persistence

    I've been playing around with this myself and found in some code somewhere the mentioning of this. I'm thinking I'll solder the header on and use those instead of the connector. That vcc doesn't have any level shifting going on there.

    Good to go....

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  • HackerBox 0045: Spark Net

    Try the link here for the Digistump drivers for Windowshttps://digistump.com/wiki/digispark/tutorials/con...

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  • Getting a bit closer..... Now I get this - at the end a "programmer is not responding"C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin>avrdude -F -c arduino -p attiny85 -P COM16 -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:mavrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% -0.00savrdude: Device signature = 0x1e950f (probably m328p)avrdude: Expected signature for ATtiny85 is 1E 93 0Bavrdude: reading input file "0xe2"avrdude: writing lfuse (1 bytes):Writing | | 0% 0.00s ***failed;Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.11savrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse writtenavrdude: verifying lfuse memory against 0xe2:avrdude: load data lfuse data from input fil…

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    Getting a bit closer..... Now I get this - at the end a "programmer is not responding"C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin>avrdude -F -c arduino -p attiny85 -P COM16 -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:mavrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% -0.00savrdude: Device signature = 0x1e950f (probably m328p)avrdude: Expected signature for ATtiny85 is 1E 93 0Bavrdude: reading input file "0xe2"avrdude: writing lfuse (1 bytes):Writing | | 0% 0.00s ***failed;Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.11savrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse writtenavrdude: verifying lfuse memory against 0xe2:avrdude: load data lfuse data from input file 0xe2:avrdude: input file 0xe2 contains 1 bytesavrdude: reading on-chip lfuse data:Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02savrdude: verifying ...avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000 0x00 != 0xe2avrdude: verification error; content mismatchavrdude: safemode: lfuse changed! Was e2, and is now 0Would you like this fuse to be changed back? [y/n] navrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (E:00, H:00, L:E2)avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not respondingavrdude done. Thank you.

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  • So i'm almost there. I have the sketch running on the Attiny85 just fine and working. I am dwn to disabling the Reset pin and soldering on the speaker. Running avrdude, ths is what I am getting.... expecting a different signature. Using -F to disable the signature check doesn't work.C:\Users\Tim>avrdude -c arduino -p attiny85 -P Com16 -U -F lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:mavrdude: please define PAGEL and BS2 signals in the configuration file for part ATtiny85avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructionsReading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02savrdude: Device signature = 0x1e950favrdude: Expected signature for ATtiny85 is 1E 93 0B Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.avrdude done. Thank you.

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  • I've gotten around to getting my ESP-32 CAM working just fine. Is there any rotate function 90 degrees? What seems like should be the right side up is apparently sideways. Not a big deal though. This thing is cool! ;)

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  • I have the pan/tilt servo mechanism together and connected it to a breadboard along with the Arduino Nano and a Joystick to control it. I posted a pic and a video of it. For some reason on here it does not show a video thumbnail. Now onto the camera....

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  • If you are getting an error like thiserror: espcomm_open failederror: espcomm_upload_mem failederror: espcomm_upload_mem failedCheck that you did not solder on the voltage regulator backwards. It is the component located between the two capacitors and looks like a transistor. It is very easy to get this on the bard backwards if you are not paying attention (I admit I did it). If you made this mistake like I did you may have cooked the regulator (but maybe not). You have to de-solder it from the board and turn it around an the flat side should face the resistors. If you have damaged it, you can simply supply 3.3V directly to VCC on the ESP board (upper most left side pin). And ground -> ground obviously. Connect power to VCC right after pushing the button to put it in boot-loader…

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    If you are getting an error like thiserror: espcomm_open failederror: espcomm_upload_mem failederror: espcomm_upload_mem failedCheck that you did not solder on the voltage regulator backwards. It is the component located between the two capacitors and looks like a transistor. It is very easy to get this on the bard backwards if you are not paying attention (I admit I did it). If you made this mistake like I did you may have cooked the regulator (but maybe not). You have to de-solder it from the board and turn it around an the flat side should face the resistors. If you have damaged it, you can simply supply 3.3V directly to VCC on the ESP board (upper most left side pin). And ground -> ground obviously. Connect power to VCC right after pushing the button to put it in boot-loader mode.If you need a replacement HT7333A you can find a comparable replacement for less than $5 on Amazon - just search for "3.3 Regulator TO-92"

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  • There was a note in the instructions mentioning that sound was not yet implemented in the code just yet. Hopefully soon in the future.

    If you go to that same link there should be two .jpg files with the wiring. One thing to make sure on any of the Adafruit boards running CircuityPython you want to make sure you have the Libraries copied onto the drive. There is single Lib folder that needs to be copied and pasted. More details on that are here. https://learn.adafruit.com/welcome-to-circuitpytho...

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  • I just wanted to mention if you have subscribed to earlier hackerboxes, Box #25 I know and one other one had these battery holders in them so if you had those boxes you might have left over parts possibly. :)

    One other thing to note on the Neopixel Ring, You can daisy chain them, so DO = Digital Out and DI - Digital In.

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  • Here is a video of the Neopixel ring on the ItsyBitsy M4 running CircuitPython.https://gardnertech-my.sharepoint.com/:v:/p/tim/EZsSncWV1FhDiHIh2gC4XYIBLGUDVctyVOC-eYjKacum3Q?e=nIugar

    That's a bummer you have a missing part. All you need to do is contact them at this email address - support@hackerboxes.com

    These little books are great! :)

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  • HackerBox 0041: CircuitPython

    Here is a video of the NeoPixel ring running on the ItsyBitsy M4 using CP.

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  • I have this little notebook!

    This is a great box. I love CircuitPython and all of the different Adafruit boards. You can even run it on the raspberry Pi thanks to their Blinka library.

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  • HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl

    I hooked up the fingerprint reader today. Super cool! Very easy to use and will work well in any access control project or anything where you need to track identity. I solder the pins on the up side of the nano board and 3d printed a holder. I need to tweak a bit.

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  • HackerBox 0038: TeknoDactyl

    I made the spinner. Now onto the fingerprint reader. Thank goodness for magnification and a benchtop power supply to double-check the polarity on the LEDs. Surface mount soldering wearing glasses and partially colorblind can be a bit tedious.

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0037: WaveRunner
    HackerBox 0037: WaveRunner

    i made the integrated unit. With some left over parts still and other stuff I have I think I will build the seperate ones asd well. Will have to solder up the signal generator in the next day or so. Great Box! :)

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  • Thats cool! Thanks for sharing it.

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  • You are right. There's anotherboard I was thinking of. It was a bit tricky.

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  • Do you have the PxMatrix Library library installed? That could be it and it is sometimes neccessary to restart the Arduino IDE after adding libraries even though it doesnt tell you too.

    I threw together a 3D stand/bracket for mounting the LED matrix. It's not perfect but it works. Feel free to download it here and alter the design to suit your needs.https://1drv.ms/u/s!AlJEBzxLFQ7zmeohfQnjctBeNV9n7w

    So I upgraded my pool thermometer that I made using the Arduino Nano and OLED from box # 35. Works great and much easier to see!

    These board you sometimes have to press the BOOT button right when it begins the download after compiling. Sometimes it takes several tries to get the timing down. This puts the board in programming mode.

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  • This is a great box. The displau is awesome! It will actually pair well with last month's box (#35) using the LED Matrix in place of the OLED display.

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  • If you are playing around with the MQ-3 Sensor I would highly recommend reading about the characteristics. https://jenslabs.com/2013/03/18/measured-sensor-ch...I have found the times for it to reset/stabalize to be somewhat accurate. I am going to get a TGS822 and try the Ketone sensing project with it.

    Oddly enough I had the same problem on my desktop PC but not on my laptop. I upgraded both to the latest IDE but still had the same problem. Strange....

    Here are a few pics... One with the text color inverted. It's harder to read.

    Did you first install the SSD1306 Library and if so, how did you go about installing it? Sometimes you need to restart the IDE after installing libraries.

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  • I am using Windows 10. I followed the instruction in the guide here -> https://www.rtl-sdr.com/rtl-sdr-quick-start-guide/Pay very close attention to steps 7 thru 11 regarding the driver.Further down below those steps are some additional troubleshooting steps.

    Joe, after going back and reading it again myself, I see right at the beginning in bold lettering that XP and Vista are not compatible. :(

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  • I'm up and running with the RTL-SDR using AirSpy. The quick-start quide is spot on. I'm listening to an old familiar freind on NFM 162.390. If you are in HackerBoxes territory you know who that is! ;) Now on to GNURadio... Soldering tommorow...

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  • I haven't tried it with my eyes closed. I was able to open a different padlock with a similar lock mechanism I have on a toolbox and got it picked open.

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  • I'm not usually a picky person, but, the lock was easy to pick. LoL! Great box! ;)

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  • Great box this month! Ironically I was thinking I needed to put a little kit like this together. Working in IT I am often times wearing the network engineer hat and this is the perfect compliment to Wireshark. Got the OpenWRT loaded. I wonder if DD-WRT will work on it? I have loaded that on many routers and just explodes the features and capabilites of a cheap router. More like what you would pay hundreds of dollas for.

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  • So here's what I have which should satisfy my needs on most days. I also have a little Radio Shack mini multi-meter not shown in the pictures which will fit in as well. I have a few feet of solder wrapped in the spool of solder wick. Screwdrivers, small cutters and needle nose, pry tool, zip ties, USB cable and wall-wart as well as a USB power meter and 8GB flash drive. Somehow, someway, I am gonna fit a roll of duct tape in this thing!

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  • That's what I did too. Worked like a charm. :)

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  • The Enigma Machine is built. Now just have to work on the code.

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  • I'm half way through building the Enigma Machine. Just have to get the keypad on and tweak a few things.

    Which OS are you running? If you are using Windows you want to make sure that ST-LINK shows up in the Device Manager. It will be under Universal Serial Bus Devices. Also, try to avoid using a USB extension cable if possible. It's always a good idea to load the latest version of the Arduino IDE. In some cases I have had issues and simply restarting the IDE wasn't good enough. It required a reboot of the computer too.

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  • TimGTech made the instructable HackerBox 0026: BioSense
    HackerBox 0026: BioSense

    Got it done... Seems to work just fine. Great Box! :)

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  • Disregard .... I have them. Just missed them somehow. Too much clutter on the desk. ;)

    Just taking inventory of parts and due to colorblindness I have to ohm my resistors with a meter. Missing the 2.2M for R7

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  • Almost forgot... Here's a great free WiFi survey tool that use on a routine basis. Free for Windows. Works great. http://nutsaboutnets.com/netsurveyor-wifi-scanner/

    Here's the sketches I used if they can be of use to anyone else.https://github.com/TimGTech/Wemos_OLED_Display

    Now onto building the antenna.....

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