Tony--K

That is a very interesting idea. It could smoothen the travelling in the SPDT Switch method, as you suggested. But i'm not sure that the small tilt angles would turn the potentiometer enough. I should try doing it.Also, it could be a good way to get the DIY Tilt Switch method to work properly, if the tilt angles are large enough. I think this method would probably need 2 potentiometers (1 for each direction) and maybe a better method of connecting the motor than I had.

Those are excellent, detailed instructions for building the robot. And it is a great idea to use color to control it.I have some questions about how it works:1. There does not seem to be a gyroscope+accelerometer sensor. What method do you use to have the robot self-balance? 2. What is the purpose of the distance sensor?Thank you.

Yes, aaronbauch, I agree with you. It would be good to include that info in the beginning. It is in his Twitter thread (which he mentions near the beginning), and he could copy it from there.

Apple's App Store has many apps that will do it on an iPhone. I chose webcam+ because you can use another iPhone or an iPad or a Mac as the client. It is easy to use and has the basic features. No fancy features. It connected my iPhone cam and my iPad client without me having to type any port numbers.

This is an amazing, creative idea. And documented very well. Excellent project!

That's an "interesting" situation. I think a touch sensor could be used successfully, but I think (probably) it should be for the left side because the robot is using the left-hand wall-following method. I'm thinking the touch sensor would be used to follow the left wall by touching the left wall.It may be possible to use the touch sensor for the right side, but I think the complication is that the touch sensor would have to be touching the right wall so that it knows if there is a right wall or not. This may need a more complicated program.Another thought: the maze should probably be more sturdy, or taped to the floor, so that the touch sensor doesn't move the walls of the maze.In either method, some experimentation in the turns will probably be needed to make it all work prope…

That's an "interesting" situation. I think a touch sensor could be used successfully, but I think (probably) it should be for the left side because the robot is using the left-hand wall-following method. I'm thinking the touch sensor would be used to follow the left wall by touching the left wall.It may be possible to use the touch sensor for the right side, but I think the complication is that the touch sensor would have to be touching the right wall so that it knows if there is a right wall or not. This may need a more complicated program.Another thought: the maze should probably be more sturdy, or taped to the floor, so that the touch sensor doesn't move the walls of the maze.In either method, some experimentation in the turns will probably be needed to make it all work properly.Wishing you success in your project.

Okay. Great. If you run into any problems, please comment here and I will reply.

Thank you.

Thank you for your comments. Interesting idea about the line of lights. I will think about it.

Thank you.

Adding to my reply of yesterday evening: The frame rate of my camera is 30 fps, which is 1,800 frames per minute. The maximum speed of the power drill is 700 rpm. Half the frame rate would be 900, but this is more than the drill can do, and yet the word "HELLO" does appear in the video. So, it seems that the idea also works at less than half of the frame rate. Maybe at one quarter?

Wow! That's interesting. I haven't heard of that. I will research it and try it. Thank you for the idea.

Thank you for your comments.Regarding the first one, if an Arduino is set up to spin the low-tech example at the proper rate, would it still be considered low-tech? Maybe.You're absolutely right about spinning by half of the camera's frame rate. I think it would also look good at 1.5, 2.5, 3.5, etc. of the frame rate.It seems to me that the effect would also work reasonably well at 0.25 of the frame rate because one frame would be one side, the next would be an edge, the next would be the other side, and then the other edge. Probably would also work at 0.75? 1.25? 1.75? etc.

Sorry for the delay in replying. I received an email from instructables today about 5 pm stating that you submitted your comment, although you sent it 2 days ago.I'm surprised the AT+PSWD command didn't work. I can't imagine why not, unless maybe you entered it out of order. My understanding is that it should be entered right after the AT+ROLE command. I think that if the password is incorrect, then AT+LINK probably would not work.Another possibility is that since your HC-05’s firmware is version 3, my understanding is that the command AT+INIT is needed before the AT+INQ command. (I mentioned this near the end of my project.) And here's another thought: please see Point 10 in the instructions, about a difficulty I had with AT+LINK and what I did. Or, If you press Arduino’s Reset button,…

Sorry for the delay in replying. I received an email from instructables today about 5 pm stating that you submitted your comment, although you sent it 2 days ago.I'm surprised the AT+PSWD command didn't work. I can't imagine why not, unless maybe you entered it out of order. My understanding is that it should be entered right after the AT+ROLE command. I think that if the password is incorrect, then AT+LINK probably would not work.Another possibility is that since your HC-05’s firmware is version 3, my understanding is that the command AT+INIT is needed before the AT+INQ command. (I mentioned this near the end of my project.) And here's another thought: please see Point 10 in the instructions, about a difficulty I had with AT+LINK and what I did. Or, If you press Arduino’s Reset button, this restores the HC-05‘s settings to the factory defaults. All the pairing steps will have to be repeated. I am not an expert on using the HC-05. I researched Internet websites for info about con􏰄figuring and pairing an HC-05, and eventually 􏰄figured out how to do it. Maybe you will be able to find something? Google sometimes finds good stuff.I hope some of this info is useful. Good luck.

That's an interesting idea. I'm going to think about a good, simple way of triggering the switching. Maybe the Meditation level. Or maybe something like the method I mentioned near the beginning of this project, which is as follows: When the user blinks, the software begins cycling thru forward, reverse, left, right for 2 seconds each. If the user does a double blink, the vehicle goes in whatever direction the cycle was in, at that instant. This method provides a lot of flexibility, but could be slow.Thank you for the idea.

I'm glad the info was useful. All the best for your project.

That is a very cool project. I will build it.But why are there 8 servos in the code, when only 4 servos are in the project?

Hello. This is an amazing project!! I would like to make it using NeuroSky MindWave Mobile 2, but I am not finding the Mindwave Library in Github. I did several searches without finding something that looks relevant to the statements in your code. Would appreciate you specifying the link. Thank you.

The "final" flight is in the first half of the video. The YouTube link is included in the beginning paragraphs of this instructable. I was not able to get the drone to lift straight up, without it going to the side, despite many attempts to adjust the drone's trim settings.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Thank you

Thank you. I plan to experiment with using other signals such as Meditation and Eye-Blinking. But the Eye-Blinking signals seem to be much more complicated to extract from the headset's data than the Attention signals. I am thinking that one Blink could mean "go forward", two quick Blinks "go right", etc.

After doing some quick research, I think Mindflex could be used instead of NeuroSky MindWave Mobile 2. If you search instructables.com for "Mindflex" there are several that describe how to connect a Mindflex to an Arduino either by wires or by Bluetooth. That's the first challenge. Then, it would be necessary to obtain the Attention values. I didn't try to figure that out in the instructables I looked at. If you find a way to obtain those values, the first one-third or one-half of my Arduino sketch (my code) will need to be changed and the remainder of the sketch should work okay. Some of the instructables use other software such as "Processing." That's a different way of working with the headset's data than in my project.

Thank you for this info about Uri Geller. When I wrote the instructable, I just wanted to mention him without getting into any details.