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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    I'm afraid I can't help you with that. That's quite outside of my experience.

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    That's good enough for me. Image shamelessly copied and Instructable updated. :-)

    You just bridged the three together like on other three-pad drivers?Do you mind if I use your pic in the Instructable?

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    When in Hybrid mode, the extruder had a tendency to shift between stealthChop and spreadCycle modes in ways that made it noisy during retractions. Since stealthChop mode can lose steps on fast moves, I figured the safest solution was to just lock it into spreadCycle mode. Besides, it's still respectably quiet in that mode.

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    That controller board does not have a standard MS1-3 jumper block, and I see no DIP switches or any other such things, so you may indeed have to cut or de-solder the PDN/UART pin from the bottom of the driver module.

    For BTT TMC 2208, I have a resistor soldered between 2 of the 3 pads so I assume is in UART mode. is this assumption correct?For that specific kind of driver module and the SKR v1.3, it should just work as-is, yeah.Here on page 6 they mention a pull resistor to be connected between TX and RX. Is this mandatory?No. That's only for older setups. We don't use that on the SKR boards. The v1.1 uses single-wire UART mode, no resistors, while the v1.3 uses two-wire mode and already has the resistors onboard.Will this module work out-of-the box in UART, meaning just connect the TX pin to the board and load the customized firmware? Do I need to de-solder/remove the 3 bottom pin heads (red ones) and let the top 3 ones only?It should work out of the box with the SKR v1.3 with *nothing* connect...

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    For BTT TMC 2208, I have a resistor soldered between 2 of the 3 pads so I assume is in UART mode. is this assumption correct?For that specific kind of driver module and the SKR v1.3, it should just work as-is, yeah.Here on page 6 they mention a pull resistor to be connected between TX and RX. Is this mandatory?No. That's only for older setups. We don't use that on the SKR boards. The v1.1 uses single-wire UART mode, no resistors, while the v1.3 uses two-wire mode and already has the resistors onboard.Will this module work out-of-the box in UART, meaning just connect the TX pin to the board and load the customized firmware? Do I need to de-solder/remove the 3 bottom pin heads (red ones) and let the top 3 ones only?It should work out of the box with the SKR v1.3 with *nothing* connected to the driver. You do not need to do any de-soldering. Just ignore the pins sticking up. (incidentally, on the SKR v1.1, you could connect you UART patch wire to the middle pin).

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    Did you remember to solder the jumpers on the drivers? Did you set the shunts on your SKR properly? If you're getting a connection error, you skipped a step.

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    Actually you're supposed to comment-out "SERIAL_PORT_2" entirely. I'll update the Instructable regarding those v3 2208's. Thanks :-)

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    There's no way that soldering those three pads together will break the driver, unless you got solder somewhere it should not go. Can you show me a close-up, well-focused photo of one of the non-functional drivers?

    If you had SOFTWARE_DRIVER_ENABLE turned on, then I guess you didn't follow the guide as exactly as you thought. ;-) It happens.As for the connection error with the 2208's, my first guesses are that you connected the UART patch wires wrong (I did more than once), or you didn't put the pins definitions into pins_BIQU_SKR_V1.1.h (I botched this as well at first), or that your LPC1768 framework library is too old.

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    You've done it right, then. :-)The whole idea is that when using a SKR v1.1 (and things like RAMPS), you just need to get the TMC2208 chip's PDN_UART line routed to that unused pin on the module PCB, so that you can pick that signal up with a jumper wire connected to MS3 pin 5 on the SKR, under the driver module. With modules that only have a two-pad jumper, like the Eryone ones I use, that's accomplished by shorting the jumper, and then bridging the UART pin to the unused pin next to it on the module.With modules like yours, simply shorting all three jumper pads together has the same effect, which you discovered. :-)With SKR v1.3, you only need to bridge the jumper such that the chip's PDN_UART signal does to the PDN/UART pin on the module -- the unused pin remains unconnected. The t...

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    You've done it right, then. :-)The whole idea is that when using a SKR v1.1 (and things like RAMPS), you just need to get the TMC2208 chip's PDN_UART line routed to that unused pin on the module PCB, so that you can pick that signal up with a jumper wire connected to MS3 pin 5 on the SKR, under the driver module. With modules that only have a two-pad jumper, like the Eryone ones I use, that's accomplished by shorting the jumper, and then bridging the UART pin to the unused pin next to it on the module.With modules like yours, simply shorting all three jumper pads together has the same effect, which you discovered. :-)With SKR v1.3, you only need to bridge the jumper such that the chip's PDN_UART signal does to the PDN/UART pin on the module -- the unused pin remains unconnected. The two-pin red jumper headers sitting outside the module headers take care of the rest.

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    I can't tell from the photos -- they're kinda heavily biased toward the 2130, and none of them show the 2208's bottom side. I use Eryone modules: https://www.ebay.com/itm/392227321415

    Just the pads on the bottom.

    I did mean those pads yeah. Since you don't have the, there's a good chance that your modules can only run in "TMC2208_STANDALONE" mode, without UART support. That is, unless you want to use a microscope to help you run a very thin jumper wire from the 2208 chip's PDN pin to the PCB's UART pin. :)

    "but i have always "TMC Connection Error" message on the screen"Did you solder the jumper on each driver to enable its UART line also (I don't mean the top-side two middle pins)? Pretty much all 2208's require that, regardless of what controller you put 'em on. The red jumper shunts on the SKR v1.3 board just route those signals to appropriate GPIO lines, but they're still dead until you close the jumpers on the driver modules"when #define SOFTWARE_DRIVER_ENABLE" is active"Turn that setting off. It's nor related to the UART stuff, and SKR (and RAMPS and most other controllers) use hardware enable lines for the driver modules. That one got me, too. :-)

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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    With SKR v1.3, you only need to close the two pads on that tiny jumper on the bottom of the module (well it's usually on the bottom anyway :-P ). This connects the driver chip's UART signal to one of the two middle pins on the driver module, depending on which side of the jumper you close.You don't have to solder the two pins together on top of the module, as the SKR v1.3 already has the internal wiring. That's only to route the driver module's UART signal to the MS3 pin, for convenience, which is what those custom patch wires are for. If I understand it correctly, you just put shunts on the red two-pin UART headers next to the driver modules. If they're soldered together, it won't hurt anything.

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    • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers
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  • TMC2208 UART on BigTreeTech/BIQU SKR V1.1 and V1.3 Controllers

    You're quite welcome. I hope it helps a few people get up and running. :-)

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  • [insert random "me too!" meme here :-P ]Not working for me, either. I managed to get started on a new project (I've sent an email to Instructables Support detailing how), but I can't save my work. Same "Oops!" error as above.Oh, and just to be sure, I've cleared my cookies to try to get around this (took a few tries, some kept getting recreated), and even my cached images.(also, while trying to add this reply, I got repeated "Oops, something went wrong!" errors, it took dozens of tries to get through).

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