Vidmo

I don't really understand that... Could you please tell me how can I replicate that errors?

No, it isn't able to debug. But it is working with AS7. It's just AVRISP MK2 clone. You should check out my other project which is a debugger compatible with mEDBG. https://hackaday.io/project/162372-xplained-yourselfYou can use Arduino Micro instead my board (or any other with 32U4 and accessible necessary pins).

I must say, that you gave me inspiration.here's imgcode in python: https://github.com/vidmo91/imgcode

I lost it with HDD malfunction. I was dumb enough to not upload it to cloud or email. Anyway algorithm was like that:Resize image so 1px is minimal CNC step.Set colours to desired levels eg. 16 colors for 16 laser power steps, or binary for BW only.Now zig zag through picture when it's white than M5 G0 to first next black When it's back than M3 G1 to first next white or line ending. And x,y pos in pixels have to be multiplied by CNC minimal step size to get real position. Eg. Minimal step is 0.01mm that picture 10x10mm have to be 1000x1000px and (100,100) position on picture is in reality (1,1)mm which is X1 Y1 in gcode.

I forgot you have to set laser power with code Sxxx for every colour value and you should scale maximum value to something like 255 or 1000 or user input preferably (it is machine dependent).

Hi, I use similar method, but I use cheap black matte spray paint and acetone for removal. It's quick: paint dries in about 15minutes. I remove residue paint by covering PCB with toilet paper soaked with acetone for few seconds and then I wipe it off. This technique is great for SMT :)

LIR batteries are rechargable, CR aren't. They look the same and provide similar voltage. Keep that in mind and do not throw away good batteries.And my second thought is, that there should be some battery protection and optionally charging circuit. You shouldn't over discharge lithium batteries, because this decrease their lifetime a lot.

TI's TLV61220 has Iq=5uA, Vi can be as low as 0,7V, it costs less than $1. I think that is worth considering it.

Awesome watch. I made Atmega328 LED watch myself some time ago. I found disappointing, that even though battery has some juce left, LEDs are dim. So we both were right and wrong about converters. They waste some power, but good ones allow to take more power from batteries. Eg. Atmega328 won't work below 1.5V (I might be wrong, but it's not far from that) red LEDs are barely visible then. With simple modern converter you can supply 3.3V from 0.7V battery with 90% efficiency. For me that's much better than seeing LEDs fade out with battery juce and having bunch of half empty cells...

I'm sorry to inform you that your antenna design is totally wrong. Take a look at this instructable https://www.instructables.com/Enhanced-NRF24L01/ NRF24L01 uses the same freq, so antenna should be similar. You can connect yours antenna's shielding to GND and core to HF signal. You have to cut tracks on PCB to do so. ESP has only one antenna transmitter/reciever, thus using two antennas will only make signal transmission worse.

I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what do you mean. If this is question, than ATmega8 is uC and 16pu means 16MHz max clock and DIP package. Thus it's basically good ol' ATmega8 same as I used. Read other comments for more tips.

You are right about supply cap. I should add ~100nF. Logic level MOSFET should be used with 5V circuit, or another BJT as amplifier should be added. I used this circuit with PC fan, so output was connected directly to fan PWM input and I didn't think about that. Pot will draw 5V/100k=50uA, and washer position has nothing to do with that. RC filter is not necessary, it's stable. Zener diode LDO works different than you think. Here's tutorial http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_7.html . Max current will be 12V/110r=110mA. So 100mA should be safe to draw, because Z-diode needs some current passing through, and 100mA is more than enough for ATtiny driving one PWM and ADC.

I meant that Peltier cooling is not effective enough when achieved device temp. is higher that ambient temp. In that case radiator-fan setup is better. But in your case device temp. is lower than ambient temp. so this chiller is not only dissipating heat but also truly cooling.

Very nice project, I appreciate clean build especially, but I think that peltier is producing more heat energy than is absorbed by it's cool side (it's not ideal device), so it's less effective than fan with radiator only...

Hi, I assume that you want to use analog temperature sensor.I see few mistakes:1. Small ATtinys don't have hardware seria,l so you can use software serial library instead. 2. You define with macro and integer variables with same names. Delete #define ones, because they are constant. Google #define to understand how it works. And never again try to define few variables/constants with same name!I'm not shure why do you map sensor value to 100-255 and then set that to zero when sensor is lower than 450. That might be logical mistake, but I don't know what do you want to do..Try that chip with potentiometer instead sensor. It's simpler and faster.

Rf is reference resistance. Formula is for other connection: sensor (Rs) is connected to GND and Rf, which is connected to 5V.I'm mapping voltages to 10000mV, because I used voltage divider for sensing higher voltages. This simple converter can supply voltages from 0 to Vcc-2.2V, so when 12V is applied It can go up to 9.8V and ATmega won't tolerate that.Both issues are shown on schematic. I tested voltage on sensor and resistance (device powered down just after heating cycle) with multimetr, and they are very close to that Arduino reads. Sensor shows something like 10000-30000ppm in jar where all air was burned out with a lighter. Alarm goes on when ALARM value has been reached and stays on at least for one heating cycle.

how long does it take to discharge that battery?

Didn't see that, sorry for question.

Thanks fot your comment. I assume, that I'll have to find somebody with CO meter for calibration :)As for formula - I assumed that anything higher than 4000ppm is lethal... I just found "manual" for it which gives ppm relation to clean air resistance https://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/Biometric/MQ-7%20Ver1.3%20-%20Manual.pdfAnd I'm getting more unsure about this sensor...You might be right about voltages, but I thing I'll check that with scope, just to be sure.Also I'm thinking about cutting traces (I have module similar to yours) and making separate circuits for sensor and heater. I desoldered opamp, so DO pin is free to use as separate supply for heater, this should improve output voltage stability.

try modern approach to this problem: http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ArduinoOnOtherA...MiniCore includes m8

I forgot about fuses (they keep info aboat bootloader max size, which is reserved for bootloader only), here's updated code:## Arduino Nano w/ ATmega328 w/Optiboot## -------------------------nano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti=ATmega328 optibootnano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.upload.maximum_size=32256nano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.upload.maximum_data_size=2048nano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.upload.speed=115200nano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.bootloader.low_fuses=0xFFnano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDEnano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.bootloader.extended_fuses=0xFDnano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.bootloader.file=optiboot/optiboot_atmega328.hexnano.menu.cpu.atmega328opti.build.mcu=atmega328p

What version of IDE are you using?Also paste here what IDE says whan you enable verbose output (file > preferences > show verbose output during: check both compilation and upload).Or you may try simple way: http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ArduinoOnOtherAt...MiniCore has ATmega8 with optiboot implemented.