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Zyb3r

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  • True, Denmark has only few car thefts, but I'm completely in love with this Arduino thing and this is a really good start-up project for learning a lot about relays, regulators, etc. etc. so that's the main reason for building this.

    True, Denmark has only few car thefts, but I'm completely in love with this Arduino thing and this is a really good start-up project for learning a lot about relays, regulators, etc. etc. so that's the main reason for building this.I don't want to use anything scrapped - I want to ensure that all projects i work on can potentially be scaled in case it turns out to be a good idea.

    Point taken regarding the 5V. I'm going to change it to 6-7V on the RAW input. Reason being that I have the siren running on 6-15V and I don't want to add another regulator so by having 6-7V I can power both the Arduino and the siren... Hmm, but on second thought, that may consume more power since the RAW input port uses the Arduino internal regulator which I suspect probably consumes more power than just connecting to VCC... thoughts?RF powered sensors for Arduino. As I understand it you mean a low power 12V RF receiver connected to the car battery that supplies the PIR sensor with power and once the PIR sensor registers motion, it starts the Arduino with the alarm circuit. Is that what you mean? Or, do you mean that I have the sensor running with its own battery and once it detects mo...

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    Point taken regarding the 5V. I'm going to change it to 6-7V on the RAW input. Reason being that I have the siren running on 6-15V and I don't want to add another regulator so by having 6-7V I can power both the Arduino and the siren... Hmm, but on second thought, that may consume more power since the RAW input port uses the Arduino internal regulator which I suspect probably consumes more power than just connecting to VCC... thoughts?RF powered sensors for Arduino. As I understand it you mean a low power 12V RF receiver connected to the car battery that supplies the PIR sensor with power and once the PIR sensor registers motion, it starts the Arduino with the alarm circuit. Is that what you mean? Or, do you mean that I have the sensor running with its own battery and once it detects motion it sends signal to Arduino to start up?I'll have to look in the the NO relay contact - that sounds like a good way of ensuring no power is consumed when the alarm is off, but ofcourse the most important thing is to ensure that the system uses as little power as possible while armed.Anyway - Just a few minutes ago I finished the first "complete" version with regulator, RF communication (two Arduinos), siren, PIR and LED to signal an alarm. Works quite well and the signal from RF seems to be fairly stable although sometimes it takes a little while for the receiver to register the message sent by the transmitter - probably because I've added a 100ms delay in the receiver causing it not always to listen for messages when the transmitter sends it.I need to optimize it as you say with regards to power consumption, but yes, probably the best way to go is to first finish off the overall design as much as possible and then think about power optimizations. I'm working on the few additions and then adding it on instructables.

    Ha ha... Good point - although that mode would be quite funny here in Copenhagen as well. Will think about that!

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  • Hi Downunder35m.THANKS for the reply - really great to get some input on this!1. I've now installed a regulator and set it for 5V (4.5V to be on the safe side and connected it to RAW). It's a good point that perhaps a fixed regulator will do the job better, so I'll look in to that once I have everything running in the test setup.2. Agree. Low power devices must be the way to go and maybe a 12V RF device in front powering the Arduino on/off would be silly since the device usually would be on when the car is turned off, thus drawing power... That means that I'm on the right track in bullet 1, when I installed the 5V regulator, except it should be fixed output voltage and not adjustable.I'm a bit confused when it comes to the modules that are powered by the RF energy of the active remote ...

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    Hi Downunder35m.THANKS for the reply - really great to get some input on this!1. I've now installed a regulator and set it for 5V (4.5V to be on the safe side and connected it to RAW). It's a good point that perhaps a fixed regulator will do the job better, so I'll look in to that once I have everything running in the test setup.2. Agree. Low power devices must be the way to go and maybe a 12V RF device in front powering the Arduino on/off would be silly since the device usually would be on when the car is turned off, thus drawing power... That means that I'm on the right track in bullet 1, when I installed the 5V regulator, except it should be fixed output voltage and not adjustable.I'm a bit confused when it comes to the modules that are powered by the RF energy of the active remote and that it (as I understand it) is a great way to optimize. Can you elaborate for me - that sounds really interesting?Also, you are probably right about the TIP122, it was all I had in my drawer. Do you have an advice on what I could use instead to further minimize power consumption?You also mention internal and external components. Do you mean that me having a regulator as a separate device is something I should avoid?3. Good point about only testing once or twice a second - I'll add that.4. Excellent - some good ideas - thanks!And... I'll definitely add an Instructable once I have most of the project complete - have already gathered some of the pictures needed. :-)

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  • Zyb3r followed arduino channel 3 years ago