aaahotdog

Man, if only I could weld. You see the treadmills heading to the garbage every day. Thanks for sharing. (Maybe someday I will finally weld)

I too like the simple design. In the US we have a plasticoat spray paint that would save the scratching on the bikes, rather than using old bike tubes. Thanks for sharing

Next time a see a crapper on the curb, I think I might grab the top and try it. Interesting. Thanks for sharing, my knife will never be dull (like me) again.

"Btw.: If you remove more strings from a piano simultaneous, it is possible that the cast iron harp frame will break or even explode !"This is true, however, if you slowly detention all of the strings in unison, you can remove the strings together on a piano. I believe same to be true of a guitar. Detention and retention the strings in unison. Not remove/restring all 6- one totally at a time.Even in bicycles, when relacing rims, you get all of the spokes in place, then slowly start tensioning the spokes in unison. If you don't, you get wheel hop.

A couple of things. You really should "lock" the strings during restringing. Hard to explain, youtube videos on it though. To lock, the first wind goes above the excess wire, additional winds go below the excess wire. The excess wire is then pinched (locked) between the first two windings. On the bass strings you need about 3 windings (2-2.5 winds on heavier guage) The upper strings (gbe) you should shoot for 4 to 6 windings. Also a good idea to string all 6 before doing the final tuning and then evenly start tightening across all 6. As you are tuning stretch the strings to check for slippage and seating. The rest is just practice.

As a tech for over 30 years, you are correct that toner particles can slip right through ordinary filters and can in rare cases explode in the vacuum. Although your filter is a step in the right direction, I will say our vacuums are especially made for toner. They have filters that trap more than hepa filters. Interesting thing about these vacuums are the way they are grounded. Yes grounded. Believe me I have sucked up toner and developer with my vacuum thinking the customers outlet is properly grounded only to come up with a big shock. If you suck up toner/developer it creates static electricity. If strong enough it might damage sensitive circuits inside the printer. Blowing out toner with compressed air isn't the best either as most of the time toner will travel into areas whe…

As a tech for over 30 years, you are correct that toner particles can slip right through ordinary filters and can in rare cases explode in the vacuum. Although your filter is a step in the right direction, I will say our vacuums are especially made for toner. They have filters that trap more than hepa filters. Interesting thing about these vacuums are the way they are grounded. Yes grounded. Believe me I have sucked up toner and developer with my vacuum thinking the customers outlet is properly grounded only to come up with a big shock. If you suck up toner/developer it creates static electricity. If strong enough it might damage sensitive circuits inside the printer. Blowing out toner with compressed air isn't the best either as most of the time toner will travel into areas where it shouldn't be. For simple toner pickups, an average person could use the yellow stretch and wipes. We use these all of the time for simple cleanups, it does a much better job than any vacuum. Sometimes it is best to leave things to trained technicians. But if you got an old printer that's not worth a repair go ahead, you have nothing to lose.

That's great. I'm impressed. Good job

very clever

I like it. Gonna try it. I think I will add one small piece at the bottom of the neck to base part for just a little more rigid neck.

Very nice. I see so many of these chairs on the curb that could use your touch.

No. Bought them.

Very interesting for sure. As a tech that used to fix tv's, the old picture tubes are somewhat dangerous if not handled carefully. They literally are a nearly perfect capacitor and can hold a shocking charge for quite a long time. Also they are under a nearly perfect vacuum. The front of the screen is a very thick glass, from there back is a thinner glass. Picture tubes don't explode, they implode with such great force that the glass gets sucked in, bounces, and jumps back out. Plus they are quite heavy, they will cause damage if tipped. Before doing your instructable, the tubes should be guaranteed discharged, and no longer vacuumized. Not trying to be mean, just don't want anyone hurt. Lots of videos out there on doing it properly.

Personally I've found soldering the batteries to be difficult without flux paste. Thank you for sharing

wish I could do woodwork like that. Very nice.

Good idea, thanks for sharing

Great video.

made mine. Thanks for the pdf.

clever

Depending on the stud finder, some work automatically, others have a dial for calibration(pulse strength). A good analogy is a stud finder is an ear. It sends out ultra sonic tones and then determines the strength of the reflected tones. The hollow areas the reflected sound is dispersed therefore weaker bounced back. When over a stud the sound is reflected immediately, stronger. Generally the detectors have a green light/ redlight system. On mine anyway the green light indicates a stud. You move the finder to the left and mark the point where the green turns to red, that is the left of the stud. You then move the finder to the right until the green turns to red. That is the right of the stud where you make a second pencil mark. You measure the distance with a ruler between the …

Depending on the stud finder, some work automatically, others have a dial for calibration(pulse strength). A good analogy is a stud finder is an ear. It sends out ultra sonic tones and then determines the strength of the reflected tones. The hollow areas the reflected sound is dispersed therefore weaker bounced back. When over a stud the sound is reflected immediately, stronger. Generally the detectors have a green light/ redlight system. On mine anyway the green light indicates a stud. You move the finder to the left and mark the point where the green turns to red, that is the left of the stud. You then move the finder to the right until the green turns to red. That is the right of the stud where you make a second pencil mark. You measure the distance with a ruler between the marks. It should be about 1.5 inches (a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 inches). If not, 1.5 inches, you might be looking at a pipe, brick or something else behind the wall.Halfways between the two marks (.75 inches) is the center of the stud. This is where you want to put your nail or screw for mounting. You can drill a small hole with a small bit to test that you have a stud. These small holes can be easily filled with spackling or filler if you made a mistake.

Your rules link is not working

nicely done.

Brilliant, I'm getting to it right now. Thanks.

enjoyed the video. Very clever.

Totally agree. I guess this is a classic example of planned obsolesence. A few extra mm and you could reuse, however then the manufacturer would not sell as many. Fill up the landfills I guess.

well done. In the past I've used jeweler's flat blades, but I'll have to make one to try it. Thank you for sharing.

Nicely done

cool

thank you

Great idea. Now I don't have to open/close the vents using the spatula anymore. Thanks.

awesome. very nice. very simple yet classic style.

Electrical conduit can probably take the UV better, however, it is twice the price of plumbing pvc pipes. Good luck with the caterpillars. I feel your pain.

Thanks for sharing. As an IT person, I get frustrated with people who have no plan for recovering what is on a computer. So what should be stored on a computer? Two things, operating and programs only. Data, photos, music etc should not be stored on a computer. It should be put on external drive and the external drive should be backed up with another drive or the cloud preferably both in some cases. But then, this is a perfect scenario.Data you "back up",everything else on a computer you "image". Hard drive crashes or virus, you re-image from latest image file. Not that tough, you lose nothing, your data was not on the computer anyway. As you mentioned windows makes it extremely easy to "backup" data. This is great because your data is everythi…

Thanks for sharing. As an IT person, I get frustrated with people who have no plan for recovering what is on a computer. So what should be stored on a computer? Two things, operating and programs only. Data, photos, music etc should not be stored on a computer. It should be put on external drive and the external drive should be backed up with another drive or the cloud preferably both in some cases. But then, this is a perfect scenario.Data you "back up",everything else on a computer you "image". Hard drive crashes or virus, you re-image from latest image file. Not that tough, you lose nothing, your data was not on the computer anyway. As you mentioned windows makes it extremely easy to "backup" data. This is great because your data is everything that you use a computer for. The only drawback to backups is the OS and programs themselves, you can lose all of that. This is why you image the hard drive. You are up and running in a fraction of the time of a factory restore and reloading programs. Imaging (programs and OS), and backups (data) are the two things that can be your best friends in a catastrophe. Not much is ever said about imaging, it goes hand in hand with backups. Both are important habits to learn and utilize to maintain and protect your computer system and data. Thanks for showing people how windows provides for backing up data. I just wanted to expand on what you posted.

Love your idea. Thanks for sharing. This summer, I'll have to do that. What I am currently doing is taking hard drive magnets, laying it on a key stuck to duct tape, then covering with a second piece of tape and sticking behind the license plate. A magnet that strong will never fall off. However, I like the camouflage of the undercoating idea much better.

If you are talking about the tools, there are no special tools, only common ones were used. That is a picture of all of the tools used for this project.

Love your idea. I remember a Scotty Kilmer video about using smoke for vacuum leaks, etc. He suggested a tube and a cigar to blow smoke. Your idea is much, much better. Especially considering price of commercial ones. Way to go.

Don't think I've seen this before with sheetrock compound. Thanks for sharing neat idea.

Very nice.

Been there, done that with WindBlows. Love your fix. Thanks for sharing.

Groooovy!!! Love it. Thanks for sharing

Very good instructable. If I can add my two cents. I have an old woodburning iron with a nice flat circle to press with. Get that baby nice and hot and it works similar to your process. Rather than using the grill mat, I take a strip of heavy duty aluminum foil to cover the ends and melt the plastic together over a piece of scrap wood. Like you said, just a little practice and you get a feel for the right amount of time needed in the melting.

Very nice. I would try to tidy your wiring connections a little better. Watching you strip wires with a box cutter made me worry. Safety first. Thanks for sharing.

Love the finished product. Kudos on the video. Let me guess, you spouse is the camera person? Very good film scripting.

Very nice. Good restoration

Very nice. One additional thing I would do. Fill the cut edges with elmers glue. Then when dry, you can easily paint over it with a nice matching paint from the recycling center or maybe a couple bucks from a big box or wallyworld. It makes a very smooth surface and would finish it nicely. I once picked up a desk that had the front trim damaged and after I peeled off the front laminate, it looked better than ever doing this.

Very nice. I was thinking about doing a wooden raised bed, might have to rethink it now.

Back 30 years ago we had a small apartment sized washer/dryer set. These fit in a closet and we would wheel them into the kitchen. The washer drained down the kitchen sink and the dryer had something commercially similar to what you made. During the summer, it was a non issue, we just vented it to an open window. During the winter though, it made the apartment way too damp. However things like cotton sheets and things that dry quickly, it worked. Things like bath towels, etc we ended up drying in the public dryers. Too much moisture in a home is never a good thing. Thanks for sharing, just monitor what you are drying

I find that a steel wool "Brillo" pad used for pots and pans works well to remove small rust pits and works well to clean the rims. You can also use common vinegar after the rims are cleaned to neutralize the metal pinholes before waxing. Vinegar is a great rust neutralizer. You can take an old rusty motor cycle or lawn mower gas tank, put in some vinegar, some bb's (like from a bb gun). Close the openings and shake the everloving xxxx out of it. The bb's will chip out the rust flakes and the vinegar will help to seal it.

Yup, that is what I am talking about. You put a dap of valve grinding compound on the phillips bit on your impact screwdriver. It will bite like crazy

wow!!! Very nicely done

Thanks for sharing. Love your idea.