aaahotdog

wow. very thorough and much thought went into this.

Very nice. I'm sure several people would appreciate this.

As a copier tech. Have fun. Just a word of caution though. DO NOT USE a vacuum to suck out toner. Copier/printer vacuums use specialized filters, grounded hoses, etc. One spark is all it takes to ignite toner in a standard vacuum. Better for the average person to take things outdoors and blow clean with compressed air. BTW. Put some toner into a baggie (1/4 cup) throw baggie so it busts open in front of a bonfire. Toner will become airbourne and a nice fireball should occur. Just be careful.

Well written. Good stuff for all bikes. Most people don't realize that a worn chain/ gears can also be dangerous. Should the chain break, or freewheel/freehub slip while doing a downshift during a climb, you can injure yourself badly.

A suggestion to do it better. Upon removing the broken windshield, leave the old urethane in place and "dry fit" the new glass. You can use strips of painters tape from the new glass to the car body. Then you cut the tape between the glass and the body. Then go about cleaning and priming the pinch welds. When putting the new glass in it's final position, all you need to do is align the tapes and press down. Doing this you need not worry that you have it aligned properly.

I'm envious. Wish I could get a spool to try it myself. Good work

Made mine. Thanks for the idea. To those of you with an energy save monitor. It works like this. You can throw the video board eventually. The power supply is on all of the time cord is plugged into outlet. The power supply feeds the video board constantly. The video board feeds a signal back to the power supply to turn on the inverters and light the lamps. The trick is to find where the signal is on the power supply. Mine was clearly marked as on/off on the power supply. I found that the video board sent 5vdc to this pin to turn on inverters. So I put a jumper from 5vdc on the power supply to the pin. At this point I could toss the video card, the power supply was working independent of the video card for the inverters and lamps. I then put a switch inline between the jumper…

Made mine. Thanks for the idea. To those of you with an energy save monitor. It works like this. You can throw the video board eventually. The power supply is on all of the time cord is plugged into outlet. The power supply feeds the video board constantly. The video board feeds a signal back to the power supply to turn on the inverters and light the lamps. The trick is to find where the signal is on the power supply. Mine was clearly marked as on/off on the power supply. I found that the video board sent 5vdc to this pin to turn on inverters. So I put a jumper from 5vdc on the power supply to the pin. At this point I could toss the video card, the power supply was working independent of the video card for the inverters and lamps. I then put a switch inline between the jumper. Your mileage may vary, but it was simple to override the energy save mode.

very nice work

That is super cool. Thanks for the pics. Sorry it took so long to reply, need to change my email address for Instructables.

Have you made updates for 2022?

Man, if only I could weld. You see the treadmills heading to the garbage every day. Thanks for sharing. (Maybe someday I will finally weld)

I too like the simple design. In the US we have a plasticoat spray paint that would save the scratching on the bikes, rather than using old bike tubes. Thanks for sharing

Next time a see a crapper on the curb, I think I might grab the top and try it. Interesting. Thanks for sharing, my knife will never be dull (like me) again.

"Btw.: If you remove more strings from a piano simultaneous, it is possible that the cast iron harp frame will break or even explode !"This is true, however, if you slowly detention all of the strings in unison, you can remove the strings together on a piano. I believe same to be true of a guitar. Detention and retention the strings in unison. Not remove/restring all 6- one totally at a time.Even in bicycles, when relacing rims, you get all of the spokes in place, then slowly start tensioning the spokes in unison. If you don't, you get wheel hop.

A couple of things. You really should "lock" the strings during restringing. Hard to explain, youtube videos on it though. To lock, the first wind goes above the excess wire, additional winds go below the excess wire. The excess wire is then pinched (locked) between the first two windings. On the bass strings you need about 3 windings (2-2.5 winds on heavier guage) The upper strings (gbe) you should shoot for 4 to 6 windings. Also a good idea to string all 6 before doing the final tuning and then evenly start tightening across all 6. As you are tuning stretch the strings to check for slippage and seating. The rest is just practice.

As a tech for over 30 years, you are correct that toner particles can slip right through ordinary filters and can in rare cases explode in the vacuum. Although your filter is a step in the right direction, I will say our vacuums are especially made for toner. They have filters that trap more than hepa filters. Interesting thing about these vacuums are the way they are grounded. Yes grounded. Believe me I have sucked up toner and developer with my vacuum thinking the customers outlet is properly grounded only to come up with a big shock. If you suck up toner/developer it creates static electricity. If strong enough it might damage sensitive circuits inside the printer. Blowing out toner with compressed air isn't the best either as most of the time toner will travel into areas whe…

As a tech for over 30 years, you are correct that toner particles can slip right through ordinary filters and can in rare cases explode in the vacuum. Although your filter is a step in the right direction, I will say our vacuums are especially made for toner. They have filters that trap more than hepa filters. Interesting thing about these vacuums are the way they are grounded. Yes grounded. Believe me I have sucked up toner and developer with my vacuum thinking the customers outlet is properly grounded only to come up with a big shock. If you suck up toner/developer it creates static electricity. If strong enough it might damage sensitive circuits inside the printer. Blowing out toner with compressed air isn't the best either as most of the time toner will travel into areas where it shouldn't be. For simple toner pickups, an average person could use the yellow stretch and wipes. We use these all of the time for simple cleanups, it does a much better job than any vacuum. Sometimes it is best to leave things to trained technicians. But if you got an old printer that's not worth a repair go ahead, you have nothing to lose.

That's great. I'm impressed. Good job

very clever

I like it. Gonna try it. I think I will add one small piece at the bottom of the neck to base part for just a little more rigid neck.

Very nice. I see so many of these chairs on the curb that could use your touch.

No. Bought them.

Very interesting for sure. As a tech that used to fix tv's, the old picture tubes are somewhat dangerous if not handled carefully. They literally are a nearly perfect capacitor and can hold a shocking charge for quite a long time. Also they are under a nearly perfect vacuum. The front of the screen is a very thick glass, from there back is a thinner glass. Picture tubes don't explode, they implode with such great force that the glass gets sucked in, bounces, and jumps back out. Plus they are quite heavy, they will cause damage if tipped. Before doing your instructable, the tubes should be guaranteed discharged, and no longer vacuumized. Not trying to be mean, just don't want anyone hurt. Lots of videos out there on doing it properly.

Personally I've found soldering the batteries to be difficult without flux paste. Thank you for sharing

wish I could do woodwork like that. Very nice.

Good idea, thanks for sharing

Great video.

made mine. Thanks for the pdf.

clever

Depending on the stud finder, some work automatically, others have a dial for calibration(pulse strength). A good analogy is a stud finder is an ear. It sends out ultra sonic tones and then determines the strength of the reflected tones. The hollow areas the reflected sound is dispersed therefore weaker bounced back. When over a stud the sound is reflected immediately, stronger. Generally the detectors have a green light/ redlight system. On mine anyway the green light indicates a stud. You move the finder to the left and mark the point where the green turns to red, that is the left of the stud. You then move the finder to the right until the green turns to red. That is the right of the stud where you make a second pencil mark. You measure the distance with a ruler between the …

Depending on the stud finder, some work automatically, others have a dial for calibration(pulse strength). A good analogy is a stud finder is an ear. It sends out ultra sonic tones and then determines the strength of the reflected tones. The hollow areas the reflected sound is dispersed therefore weaker bounced back. When over a stud the sound is reflected immediately, stronger. Generally the detectors have a green light/ redlight system. On mine anyway the green light indicates a stud. You move the finder to the left and mark the point where the green turns to red, that is the left of the stud. You then move the finder to the right until the green turns to red. That is the right of the stud where you make a second pencil mark. You measure the distance with a ruler between the marks. It should be about 1.5 inches (a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5 inches). If not, 1.5 inches, you might be looking at a pipe, brick or something else behind the wall.Halfways between the two marks (.75 inches) is the center of the stud. This is where you want to put your nail or screw for mounting. You can drill a small hole with a small bit to test that you have a stud. These small holes can be easily filled with spackling or filler if you made a mistake.

Your rules link is not working

nicely done.

Brilliant, I'm getting to it right now. Thanks.

enjoyed the video. Very clever.

Totally agree. I guess this is a classic example of planned obsolesence. A few extra mm and you could reuse, however then the manufacturer would not sell as many. Fill up the landfills I guess.

well done. In the past I've used jeweler's flat blades, but I'll have to make one to try it. Thank you for sharing.

Nicely done

cool

thank you

Great idea. Now I don't have to open/close the vents using the spatula anymore. Thanks.

awesome. very nice. very simple yet classic style.

Electrical conduit can probably take the UV better, however, it is twice the price of plumbing pvc pipes. Good luck with the caterpillars. I feel your pain.

Thanks for sharing. As an IT person, I get frustrated with people who have no plan for recovering what is on a computer. So what should be stored on a computer? Two things, operating and programs only. Data, photos, music etc should not be stored on a computer. It should be put on external drive and the external drive should be backed up with another drive or the cloud preferably both in some cases. But then, this is a perfect scenario.Data you "back up",everything else on a computer you "image". Hard drive crashes or virus, you re-image from latest image file. Not that tough, you lose nothing, your data was not on the computer anyway. As you mentioned windows makes it extremely easy to "backup" data. This is great because your data is everythi…

Thanks for sharing. As an IT person, I get frustrated with people who have no plan for recovering what is on a computer. So what should be stored on a computer? Two things, operating and programs only. Data, photos, music etc should not be stored on a computer. It should be put on external drive and the external drive should be backed up with another drive or the cloud preferably both in some cases. But then, this is a perfect scenario.Data you "back up",everything else on a computer you "image". Hard drive crashes or virus, you re-image from latest image file. Not that tough, you lose nothing, your data was not on the computer anyway. As you mentioned windows makes it extremely easy to "backup" data. This is great because your data is everything that you use a computer for. The only drawback to backups is the OS and programs themselves, you can lose all of that. This is why you image the hard drive. You are up and running in a fraction of the time of a factory restore and reloading programs. Imaging (programs and OS), and backups (data) are the two things that can be your best friends in a catastrophe. Not much is ever said about imaging, it goes hand in hand with backups. Both are important habits to learn and utilize to maintain and protect your computer system and data. Thanks for showing people how windows provides for backing up data. I just wanted to expand on what you posted.