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I've seen others remove a letter/number from the plate to make a hole for the pickup. Like where my plate has the '0', that could be cut out and replaced by a pickup (if the size matches) and it wouldn't detract from the appearance.As far as the bridge goes, it would depend on if you're going electric only or want the acoustic option. For electric only, you could mount it at the end where I have the hinge tailpiece and it would be fine. If you want acoustic sound when unplugged, it would obviously need to be over the plate. You could add bracing underneath to support the roller bridge.Please post a photo when you're done. I'd love to see it.
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Nice work. Very clear. "I want this one" made me LOL...nice touch.
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Great job. Very clear instructions. I'll have to make one to go along with my homemade uke. I believe I like #1 the best because of the contrasting colors
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With a proper fit and a wood wedge, you really don't need the metal wedge. Mainly because it tends to crack the handle (like you saw). Check out the Forestry Service publication "An Axe to Grind."
They've worked well. They don't turn far to adjust pitch, so I haven't had any issues with them coming out accidently.
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What size was that blade originally? How thick is it?
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If you use the DGBE strings from an extra light guitar set, those should work.
It'll be some work, but you don't have to be an expert (or a prodigy) to end up with a playable uke.
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You could do it with a rasp and sandpaper. Slower, but it'll still work.
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I built mine at 25".
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Sketchup has a dimension tool that will tell you lengths. All the angles look to be 45 degrees.
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Actually, the scale length (nut to bridge) of a soprano uke is about 13". Baritone ukes are about 21". Very nice build. would you post a short video for a sound sample?
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