allwinedesigns

Looks great! That’s the shallowest one I’ve seen built. How stable does it feel?

It helped that we lived a few hours apart at the time. But even then, I wasn’t able to hide the fact that I was making the ring for long. She didn’t see the actual ring, though, until I proposed.

Nice work! I’m glad it was helpful :)

Oo, I like the galvanized peg board. Nice work!

Nice work! Glad the tutorial was helpful!

Looks great, we’ll done!

Looks great, well done! A shelf underneath helps. Another thing I've been meaning to do is add an underside to the upper shelf (so there would be 3 1/2 inch tall compartments). It would be handy for smaller storage items.

Thanks, I’m glad you like it! 1. I remember it being around $100 in material costs.2. That should be fine. If I were to do the bench over again, I’d probably not cut the boards supporting the shelf at 45 degrees, but rather leave them as a regular 90 degree cut. If you went that route, you’d only have 4 boards with 45 degree cuts (8 cuts total).

I’m really excited to see what you make for your 4 year old! I have an almost 4 year old and I’m sure he’d love to help me make him a workbench :)

Unfortunately, I’ve never used braided rope. It may hold up a little better than twisted rope once a strand is broken, but you’ll have to experiment.

The mandrel is used to tie the knot, it doesn’t stay in the knot, so your dog still wouldn’t get the crinkly sound when completed. You could potentially replace the lacrosse balls with small water bottles (the 8 ounce kind).

The widget uses 4 feet x 8 feet sheets of plywood when calculating how many you will need. I used a single sheet and used 3 feet by 8 feet for the table top and just under 1 foot x 8 feet for the shelf.

That's the exact knot that we're tying here. In the steps above, I recommend 10 feet of cord using the mandrel that I describe. Standard paracord is a little thicker than what I used in the tutorial, so you may end up using less as you may not be able to get 3 full passes in.

Well done, thanks for sharing!

This is SO cool! Well done!

Nice work! I’m excited to hear how it goes. This is awesome!

Awesome, we’ll done! Let me know how the ball and rope toy goes :)

Nice, I like it. I just got my hands on a circuit playground express. The audio alert would work well for it, too.

Thanks so much! I really like your creeper sentry. Maybe you could adapt it to be an in game creeper detector, too! Maybe the ultrasonic sensor could keep track of the last object it saw and when it detects a creeper it turns back to it like it’s seen you. Good luck in the contest :)

Awesome, I love it! Definitely post pictures when you’ve got it all together!

Thanks for the tip, ffcabral! I also wanted to throw in that the SerialCraft mod is able to interact with Redstone so you can wire up real buttons, switches and other sensors to trigger Redstone signals, which allows you to open doors, launch fireworks, etc. using real world interactions.

Yeah, same here. I used the Raspberry Pi version once, but have steered away from the Pi for the most part because of all the setup required (monitors, keyboards, mice). It’s also much slower than the Desktop version on a decent laptop which is important when you only have an hour or two for a class.

Thanks so much, FreeR2!

That’s not at all the goal. The goal was the get them into the STEAMlab and expose them to the possibilities when learning about science, technology, engineering, arts and math (STEAM). If the kids want to be playing Minecraft, why not leverage that by showing them how to program or how to wire up a circuit at the same time?

I’m blown away by how amazing some of the mods are out there. All based on a decompiled and reverse engineered version of the game!

You’re welcome! It’s a great game. I highly recommend trying it out :)

I’ll be sure to show him ;)

Unfortunately not. You’ll need the PC version of the game with Minecraft Forge and the SerialCraft mod installed.

Hunting them is definitely more fun than avoiding them! It can be a little trickier, though, if you want to stay alive :)

Thanks Jessy! It can actually go even further. My first go at it was a 64 block max, but that seemed a fit far. But if you're hunting creepers rather than avoiding them, extending the range can be a good way to go!

Thanks Isaiah! Yeah, the offsets would define a vector (NX,NY,NZ) which is a unit vector that can be scaled by a multiplier (a strand thickness, or strand thickness+some gap size, it's really up to you) and added to the previously calculated points.

Nice work! I'd love to see how the drawers look when they're finished. That sounds like a great idea.

I think it was pine. Whatever Home Depot's standard framing 2x4s were at the time.

Nice work! I like the overhang over the sides. I should add that in to the widget. Thanks for sharing :)

Looks fantastic, Michael, well done!

Well done! I'm glad you came up with something other than the metal strips, those were the weakest part of the project in terms reliability.

Glad to hear it! I'm interested to hear how that goes. Does your keyboard have a USB port or the older MIDI ports? I've had limited success with MIDI devices over USB. To activate the standard MIDI port on the MUSE board you just use #define MUSE_USE_SERIAL1 at the top of your program.

Thanks! The bushings sound like a great idea. Would love to see pictures if you try it out :)

MIDIUSB is another library that allows Arduino with the 32U4 chip (like the A Star) to behave like a midi device over USB. You can download it from github: https://github.com/arduino-libraries/MIDIUSB

What's the error? Does this link work? https://github.com/AllwineDesigns/MUSE/archive/master.zip

Glad to hear it! The schematics are all here: https://github.com/AllwineDesigns/CircleOfFifths/t...I think the round sheet metal piece that you're talking about was the center piece that was left over after cutting out all the other rings and it isn't in the schematics. I used it to fashion one extra piece that goes around the center bolt, like a washer (it's the following image after the circular piece). A ground wire is soldered to it and then screwed to the board so the ground wire doesn't twist when the selector is turned.

Looks great, thanks for sharing!

Strange. Thanks for letting me know! I'll try to fix this soon. In the mean time you can grab the files from my blog post: https://www.allwinedesigns.com/blog/arduino-powered-circle-of-fifths

Awesome! You're very welcome. I'd love to see pictures of their project.

Nice, well done! What are you using each of them to control?

Nice, I provided some other examples for pressing keys on your keyboard and turning the volume up and down as well. You could do all three! If you bind turnin one direction to pressing up and the other to pressing down they can be used in applications such as Photoshop to scrub color values, brush sizes and more.

Thanks, Dee!

Thanks Erik, I'm glad you liked it!

Thanks, zposner! I hope so :)

Yeah, the libraries make it very straight forward. The encoder works great! Each detent gives a distinct click so it's easy to make fine adjustments, but you can also spin it quickly with the swivel handle.

Correct, you include the Mouse.h library and then in your setup function you call Mouse.begin() to imitate a USB mouse. The other examples, similarly, use an HID library that interfaces with the computer as an HID device.