nope - it's not redundant. I am using the pi's audio output but the signal is not amplified. it's enough for headphones but not for speakers.
use your google skills. there are 100s of other sites like e.p. (and no - I won't mention any).
like you said - a different board. check the comments - some people used a dc-dc booster to power the display.
thanks. would be awesome to see your finished version.
there you go:https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/RetroArch-Configuration#default-joypad-hotkeys
yes, yes and yes.
Found in the interwebs:I use button combinations to control the system volume. If I hold Select+Up the volume increases, Select+Down it decreases, and Select+Left will mute. I have my physical speakers set at around 75% inside my arcade and I never actually change that. The hotkey combinations are defined in retroarch.cfg and mine looks something like this:input_enable_hotkey_btn = 8 #Selectinput_volume_up_axis = +1 #Up on Joystickinput_volume_down_axis = -1 #Down on Joystickinput_audio_mute_axis = +0 #Left on Joystick
the glue will insulate the pins just fine.
did you check the controls with a PC as mentioned in step 20 "Testing the controls (optional)"?
speakers: the same as used in the GamePi Zeroamp: the same as used in the GamePi 2
no idea - never had the chance to see if all electronics would fit.
you can additionally adjust the volume within the retropie configuration. setting it to 80% should be fine.
what part do you need pictures of? technically it's the same build as the gampepi 2
try adding the line disable_audio_dither=1 to /boot/config.txt
they are pushed in from the outside. you can use a file to clean and widen the hole
thanks a lot.
take one which has the same specs. size, resolution, etc.
RetroPie page says DS games are supported:https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Supported-Systems
there are other instructables describing how to fit a RasPi Zero into a gameboy case.
if you mean the pictures of the systems: no. they appear if roms for the systems are found
Check if the display is operating properly with a 5V power source:- power the display with a different powersource than the rest of the system, e.g. a second powerbank or a 5V smartphone charger.- connect the signal and ground wires to the pi- power on the display- power on the gamepi- check if there are still problems
no labels needed. these switches are pretty easy to connect.this picture should help to understand how they work. when the button is pressed the ground and the signal line are shorted and that's basically the signal to the pi to do something.
I never said cutting off power with the switch is a proper way to turn off the device. I also power it off just like you said - shutdown the raspi from the retropie menu and then use the switch to cut the power from all other components. If you want to implement a better solution you can add a tactile switch to a unused gpio pin of the pi. when it's pressed the pi shutsdown. after the shutdown a transistor cuts off the power from the rest of the system.
- buttons L1 and R1 on the shoulders of the case- better button ducts - universal LiPo PCB/battery combo- stereo speakers- speakers in the front- minor improvements for better 3D printing
the display features a build in voltage regulator. it works fine with 5V or 12V.
holy cow. at least the hot glue fits the filament color :D Check out the updated version of this GamePi. It should cover some of your improvements. what's wrong with the keymapping btw.?
Check out the updated version of this GamePi. it's designed for separate powerbank-electronics and batteries (link in thingiverse description)
It's described in step 7.https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-LeonardoMicroATMega32u4-As-GamepadGame-Con/
1) Nope. The Arduion Pro Mini does a good job.2) As much as the size of your micro SD card. (thousands of games on a 64 GB card )3) Nope. All walls have are 4mm thick. 4) It fits in the butt-pocket of some jeans. Size is: 20cm x 8cm x 3cm5) As ergonomic as a thicker SNES controller (or a PSP). It's OK I guess.
finished the updated version:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911881
Had no problems with my controller. Try swapping the controller data wires (withe and green).
well, no one's gonna stop you from re-configuring the setup - go for it.
it's not overclocked. it's getting warm but nothing near dangerous.
I've no experience with video via bluetooth. You should try it.
This article describes how it can be done.
the size of case is 20cm x 9cm
I did not measure the battery life time yet. My other device runs 4.5 hours on one charge - but it has a Raspberry Pi 3 build it. This one here runs a Raspberry Pi Zero which draws less current - so I think it should run around 6 hours on one charge.
1. The battery life is described in the third sentence. 2. You won't. But you can calculate it: - the capacity of the battery is 1350 mAh. - the charger delivers a charge current of 1000 mA. So technically it takes around 1.5 hours to charge it. But the charger won't constantly charge the battery with 1000mA. Just let it charge for 2 hours and it should be fine.
Thank you. To your questions:1.) The USB cable of the controller was cut and the single wires were directly soldered to the USB connector of the Pi (or to the test pads - for better handling). So it's like connecting the Controller to the Pi via USB -- but skipping the long cable and the USB jack. 2.) That was a typo. It should be "4. Remove the multimeter." I've corrected it. 3.) Yes, it's possible. This question was already asked and answered. Look into the commentens for the question of "Mr Joshua" 18 days ago. You could also connect further controllers via bluetooth.
- make sure all audio wires are kept as short as possible- make sure all points are soldered correctly- make sure you do not set audio to 100% within emulationstation (80% should be enough)- try setting disable_audio_dither=1 in the config.txt
Yes, you're right about the slid-in nuts. I used M3s squared nuts. It's up to you using washers - I didn't need them.
working on it
I've updated the link. M3x12 is too short. M3x16 should work.
Thank you for the vote.The performance depends on what emulators you want to use. I tried some games on N64 and PS1 - they didn't performed that well. Older system like NES, SNES, some Segas works just fine.
That's the battery I'm using.
I'm working on a revision of the GamePi 2 (ducts, shoulder buttons, new battery layout, etc.). it's quite low on my todo list - so no ETA yet.
there you go:
I skipped the volume control wheel because you can control it within emulation station and use button shortcuts (and there wasn't much space left). If you want to add one you should check Step 10 of my other instructable on the bigger GamePi 2.
@Millionaar: that's the way I did it too.
but the nintendo switch is way thinner then a raspberry pi hooked on a display ;)you do not need a splitter if you you use the official Pi 7" display. it's connect via DSI - so the HDMI port on the Pi ramains free for further use (e.g. a TV)
my very first handheld device was actually build around a 7" display. you can see it on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2785021There is no instructable for it since it was somewhat of a prototype (too big, too heavy).
thanks a lot.
sure. if you're interested PM me.
not as quick as it looks like :P these are all projects I started with a while ago but then lost interest or got frustrated with (e.g. the sound part on this build). Right now I just want to finish all of them and enjoy the upcoming summer weather. but yeah - glad that so many folks like the stuff. thanks again, btw :D
haha, talking about "favorable emulation station".thanks for the hint. I'll update the values.
thanks a lot and have fun building it.
Thanks for your vote.I've added the design featuring the external USB port: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2790453I can really say if all the fake SNES controller are 100% the same but I would think so.
GamePi Zero - the Favorable...View Instructable »
in you picture all letters should connected. It like all switches are connected to the same ground line.
Steampunk Wine-Boom-BoxView Instructable »
first of all thanks for the vote :)the charging is described in "Step 4: Wiring: the Power Circuit". On the first picture you can see a female micro USB jack. The wiring diagram says "female micro USB jack for charging the battery". You can shut down the Pi cleanly from the emulationstation main menu:press the Start button in the main menu, select QUIT, select SHUTDOWN SYSTEM
Thx. Don't forget to vote for it in the contests :P
you got mail.
The 3rd sentence of this instructable says:"It is powered by a smartphone Lithium Ion battery which lasts up to 3 hours (depending on the emulator running)."
thanks for the kind words. Actually this build presented here is my second iteration of this device. The fist one featured an internal USB hub and a external USB jack (see attached picture). I dropped the hub for this build since the Pi Zero W comes with bluetooth and it's super easy to bind it with some (for example) PlayStation bluetooth controllers for some multiplayer action. If you're interested I can send you the 3D model (stl file) with the external USB jack.
Thank you very much.
GamPi XS - the Plug'n'Play ...View Instructable »
you could just use the unused composite video output of the pi.https://www.adafruit.com/product/2881
IMHO this quite a simple build but I am maybe the wrong person to ask.
the signals at the audio jack of the Pi would be spitted. There would be sound coming from the amp and from the headphones.
I've added a new back case which now supports a Intenso S5000 powerbankhttps://www.thingiverse.com/download:4808813
If we want to be super precise:Type: ScrewModel: ISO7380Socket: Hex Socket Head: Button Head Thread: M3 (3mm)Length: 18mmYou'll need a length of at least 17mm so the screw takes the whole nut .
The question for the battery life was already raised below - and answered. It lasts for 4,5 hours.