austin.hall.129794

Using 2x resealable bags would be pretty certain of keeping out the moisture. As far as the whole "looking under cars in the heat... blah blah" beleive me that would not deter a determined car thief if he thought he was going to score, and seeing something hanging down underneath a car in an easily accessible spot that quite obviously isn't normally there, can be seen from several cars away no problem - that is a professional opinion.While coments are normally for constructive criticism, I made my post with the obvious intent of pointing out some extremely serious flaws with this design - there are better ways and better designed "key safes" than this idea which can be used to temporarily store you car keys while you go surf if you resolutely intend to leave the key...

Using 2x resealable bags would be pretty certain of keeping out the moisture. As far as the whole "looking under cars in the heat... blah blah" beleive me that would not deter a determined car thief if he thought he was going to score, and seeing something hanging down underneath a car in an easily accessible spot that quite obviously isn't normally there, can be seen from several cars away no problem - that is a professional opinion.While coments are normally for constructive criticism, I made my post with the obvious intent of pointing out some extremely serious flaws with this design - there are better ways and better designed "key safes" than this idea which can be used to temporarily store you car keys while you go surf if you resolutely intend to leave the key near the vehicle.Get a fanny pack (bum bag), or some kind of small backpack thing and put your keys inside a sealable box - ANYTHING but make one of these. Seriously.

It would be easy to make an adjustable strap - with holes in at the end to clip onto a nail or something - like a belt. Table wouldn't Work for one person though... hVae a think about why.... :)

Wwell the table moves right? so just co-ordinate that, might get harder the more beers you have though :)(had to laugh as the woman comment as well, just don't tell my wife)

cost of machines $4300 + need I say more?and no, it can't be made with cheaper tools, because the level of skill required to make this by hand especially squaring off the sections to meet seamlessly is next to impossible in any "normal" timeframe, and I've got many years in handplane usage.clearly an excuse to use instructables as free advertising to increase the visibility of your company.

Good table, only thing I would point out that this design is no good for using it as a metal / woodworking bench as the cantelevered top is not fully supported, those diagonal braces are not enough if you were to use this design for that kind of use. There is a reason why a workbench has a leg on each corner and braces in between.

If you are at all unsure, give it a couple of coats of clear spray car varnish, nowadays it's mostly acrylic varnish so won't harm you from longterm exposure and will seal the mobo and any solder remaining.

Please for the love of wood, take this 'ible down.these things are good for nothing, not just this one... all of them.They don't drill accurate holes, perpendicular straight holes, or even holes the SAME SIZE as the drillbit you are using.Please trust me when I say "been there, done that, pulled my hair out trying to make it do what I want, then going out and buying a proper drillpress"These things are an abomination, sent to test the patience of Job (the man).If you are at the stage where "more advanced" woodworking is your norm, I must assume that equals "more accurate", and every. single. one. of this style of "drillpress with a handheld drill attached" either homemade or store bought are...utter utter utter trash.they have waaay too much slop ...

Please for the love of wood, take this 'ible down.these things are good for nothing, not just this one... all of them.They don't drill accurate holes, perpendicular straight holes, or even holes the SAME SIZE as the drillbit you are using.Please trust me when I say "been there, done that, pulled my hair out trying to make it do what I want, then going out and buying a proper drillpress"These things are an abomination, sent to test the patience of Job (the man).If you are at the stage where "more advanced" woodworking is your norm, I must assume that equals "more accurate", and every. single. one. of this style of "drillpress with a handheld drill attached" either homemade or store bought are...utter utter utter trash.they have waaay too much slop in them, from the cheap bearings in the drill that move off axis as you apply pressure, to how the stands are made,and how the mechanism works; every hole you drill will be different. A drillpress is designed to give you the SAME hole, over and over and over again, awake, half asleep, with your eyes closed; the SAME HOLE, same as the last and the next.Do yourself a favor, spend the money on a bench sized drillpress, they don't have to be $$$$$, but don't buy the cheapest one either, the first time you use it, it's a revelation.lol with all the bible references and I'm not even religeous!

OK now I've got that out of my system, how can this be improved?look at the design of all drillpresses, they all have a solid collar at the bottom of the tube, doing it in wood make it twice as thick and twice as high.One small bolt into the underside of the metal rod is nowhere near solid enough. if it's hollow fill it with concrete and use the threaded stud at least 100mm long to attach it to the base, 2 would be better, mounted in line with the drill.the wood base it's sitting on is too thin and will flex under tension, especially as it's on feet - if I were making it I'd use 2x 25mm thick plywood, when it comes to things like this overkill is the byword. I know you might not think it's flexing but it is because your motion of moving the drill will never be 100% vertical, making th...

OK now I've got that out of my system, how can this be improved?look at the design of all drillpresses, they all have a solid collar at the bottom of the tube, doing it in wood make it twice as thick and twice as high.One small bolt into the underside of the metal rod is nowhere near solid enough. if it's hollow fill it with concrete and use the threaded stud at least 100mm long to attach it to the base, 2 would be better, mounted in line with the drill.the wood base it's sitting on is too thin and will flex under tension, especially as it's on feet - if I were making it I'd use 2x 25mm thick plywood, when it comes to things like this overkill is the byword. I know you might not think it's flexing but it is because your motion of moving the drill will never be 100% vertical, making the base thicker and stronger means this linear (horizontal) application of force can be counteracted and thus not transpose it into your drill hole.Not much you can do to alter the characteristics of the handheld drill and it's bearings, but what you CAN do is make up a double chuck system, salvage 1 preferably metal chuck and mount it to a separate sliding system, and the back rod then goes into the chuck of the drill. The metal chuck will have no bearings inside and thus no off axis travel when under load, and the drill itself with it's bearings will not be able to off axis travel as it's attached to the fixed point chuck. That would also mean technically if you had one of those flexible drill extention snake things you could simply lie the drill on the bench, attach the snake to the mounted chuck on the pole and run that up and down, less weight / stress on the pole = less chance for off axis deflection.(and if you win, I want credit! :) )

PS - if you think your drillpress is accurate, I'll set you a challenge to replicate what I tried to do FOUR times before going out and buying a drillpress. If it can do it - it'll be something to prove how good your design is (and I'll retract my statement), but honestly? I have great doubts it can.

Ok you are quiet correct, I have never made one - and I'm not trying to belittle or othewise insult you, but you have made an 'ible for others to follow based on something not tried, tested and proven to be accurate.I realise my reaction may be a little OTT, but if you've had my experiences of one of these kinds of "drill press" you'd understand.The other thing is the tolerances of woodworking you may work to, and find acceptable, are different from anothers.The stark and unfortunate truth of woodworking, is that if you wish to work to any degree of accuracy = less headaches and problems, you must first start by using a tool that has THE BEST accuracy you can produce, and from then on any inaccuracies introduced from human interaction are thus smaller.Have you ever used a stra...

Ok you are quiet correct, I have never made one - and I'm not trying to belittle or othewise insult you, but you have made an 'ible for others to follow based on something not tried, tested and proven to be accurate.I realise my reaction may be a little OTT, but if you've had my experiences of one of these kinds of "drill press" you'd understand.The other thing is the tolerances of woodworking you may work to, and find acceptable, are different from anothers.The stark and unfortunate truth of woodworking, is that if you wish to work to any degree of accuracy = less headaches and problems, you must first start by using a tool that has THE BEST accuracy you can produce, and from then on any inaccuracies introduced from human interaction are thus smaller.Have you ever used a straightedge level that ISN'T LEVEL, or a setsquare (engineering square) that isn't square? I have and this is the same, if you start out "not straight / square" anything after that will compound the issue further and further, the more you use it on the one project. I have been on the wrong end of this so often I'm paranoid about it now, and you know what? Since I upgraded my tools, and not with anything costing $$$$$ either, when I make a box now it's square, the sides all meet with minimal gaps and there's no time / money wasted making alterations.Using a tool you KNOW isn't accurate is ensuring you'll have problems down the road.At the very least add some sort of disclaimer that this is only meant for the most mundane of drilling tasks where perfect accuracy isn't required.

Lovely table - good choice of timber - well written 'ible, gets my vote :)Ok ppl - for everyone worried about wood movement here is the definitive answer... ready? Do what all proper wood table builders do: make the connection between the tabletop and the supporting structure "non static". In this case the wood is central, and the grain direction is top to bottom, wood only moves ACROSS the grain (side to side). As the concrete does not cover the ends of the wood slab the wood is free to expand across the grain and push the two concrete sections in and out.All you then have to do is elongate the holes that the screws or bolts go through in the support frame in the same direction, so instead of being holes they become oval shaped, only maybe 5mm or so, side to side instead o...

Lovely table - good choice of timber - well written 'ible, gets my vote :)Ok ppl - for everyone worried about wood movement here is the definitive answer... ready? Do what all proper wood table builders do: make the connection between the tabletop and the supporting structure "non static". In this case the wood is central, and the grain direction is top to bottom, wood only moves ACROSS the grain (side to side). As the concrete does not cover the ends of the wood slab the wood is free to expand across the grain and push the two concrete sections in and out.All you then have to do is elongate the holes that the screws or bolts go through in the support frame in the same direction, so instead of being holes they become oval shaped, only maybe 5mm or so, side to side instead of up and down.Do this both sides of the support frame and voila - the wood can move, no cracking, splitting or anything else.If you used a smaller log and wanted a concrete section on all four sides, then at both ends an expansion slot should be cut all the way to the wood, this will limit the choice of support configurations, but will again eliminate any cracking issue.

Nice 'ible, but too advanced for the average joe, you are clearly adept and well versed in many of the techniques required, quite apart from owning all the other tools and associated paraphenalia. I have worked with leather before and frankly you are far too casual about the hand stitching which will take a heavy toll on peoples hands not used to it, as well as the significant time it would take. This is a good weeks worth of work several hours a night.You also spectacularly fail to mention that finding a boot/shoe last (the techincal name for the base foot mould you build it around) similar to your foot is not a simple task; wide / narrow / high instep, all of these need to be taken into account to ensure they do not rub and that the shape does not compress or otherwise impede the &q...

Nice 'ible, but too advanced for the average joe, you are clearly adept and well versed in many of the techniques required, quite apart from owning all the other tools and associated paraphenalia. I have worked with leather before and frankly you are far too casual about the hand stitching which will take a heavy toll on peoples hands not used to it, as well as the significant time it would take. This is a good weeks worth of work several hours a night.You also spectacularly fail to mention that finding a boot/shoe last (the techincal name for the base foot mould you build it around) similar to your foot is not a simple task; wide / narrow / high instep, all of these need to be taken into account to ensure they do not rub and that the shape does not compress or otherwise impede the "normal" shape of your foot while walking long distances.No hostile intent made, they ARE nice boots, and if I ever need to I'll use this 'ible; I'm simply stating facts you have glaringly avoided that should have been mentioned for those who might think "hey that looks easy" and spend money on the required materials and end up with nothing worth wearing.

Arn't you a little short to be a Sauron?

Nice work - I might well try this... but try to look a bit happier about your creation eh?

Even though you are in the business of making props, this is still unbelieveable work. I'm a hobby maker of various things and can really appreciate the work and effort put into this. It's so good Blizzard should employ you to go to conventions. If I was ever in need of a prop - you'd be the first person I'd call!

I guess we can't blame Kimotori for his mentality - he's most likely Japanese and all they know is compliance and "rules" - not all bad to be fair to them, their manufacturing is world class, but any deviation from "the rules" is treated as an anathema (unless accompanied with Sake), that's why they have so little international cultural integration, to mean they have an EXTREMELY small amount of non Japanese living there as a life choice other than for work. They have a saying; "the nail that sticks out, gets the hammer".

How was my comment racist? The Japanese ARE like that, they DO live their entire lives based around complicated sets of rules both socially and in their working lives that most non Japanese wouldn't be able to grasp (for example in speech they use a different term for a Japanese person living and working in Japan and those who are currently or have lived and worked overseas - the connotation being they they have somehow become "tainted" by westerners, this happens everyday, everywhere). I've lived and worked there - I personally witnessed several of my "pupils" call me Gaijin (instead of Gaikokujin the more polite term for "foreign person"), behind my back even though I was trying to teach them something to enrich their lives and make it easier for them to ...

How was my comment racist? The Japanese ARE like that, they DO live their entire lives based around complicated sets of rules both socially and in their working lives that most non Japanese wouldn't be able to grasp (for example in speech they use a different term for a Japanese person living and working in Japan and those who are currently or have lived and worked overseas - the connotation being they they have somehow become "tainted" by westerners, this happens everyday, everywhere). I've lived and worked there - I personally witnessed several of my "pupils" call me Gaijin (instead of Gaikokujin the more polite term for "foreign person"), behind my back even though I was trying to teach them something to enrich their lives and make it easier for them to get international work (majority were over 16). The Japanese are extremely intolerant of other cultures and things that don't comply with how they live, it's just a FACT.

I guess we can't blame Kimotori for his mentality - he's most likely Japanese and I know from having worked there as an EaaFO teacher, all they know is compliance and "rules" (even the younger generation that seem to be "deviants" have strict social rules within their subcultures) - not all bad to be fair to them, their manufacturing is world class, but any deviation from "the rules" is treated as an anathema (unless accompanied with Sake), that's why they have so little international cultural integration, to mean they have an EXTREMELY small amount of non Japanese living there as a life choice other than for work. They have a saying; "the nail that sticks out, gets the hammer".

I hate to be a naysayer because on the whole it isn't a terrible idea, but using featherboards for holddowns is far safer. To use them all you'd need to do is make a taller sacrificial fence and clamp to that for vertical holddown. For the thin stock both horizontal and vertical why not make a push block that completely engulfs the blade while pushing stock through?https://www.instructables.com/id/Thin-Rip-Push-Block/?ALLSTEPS

Look - I wasn't offended, so don't try to claim kudos for "setting me straight". I was incensed; there IS a difference, a situation 99% of people under 25 seem to be wholly unable to grasp. I was stating that the person who wrote this 'ible is in the USA, ergo he used his native measurement system that happens to be different from others but is NO LESS VALID. There is an SI because there has to be for international manufacturing - such as when plane parts get made in 6 different countries - otherwise we get the FUBAR that NASA managed to pull off with their martian probe doing a spectacular faceplant into the ground because they had failed to convert the numbers.You are not a manufacturing person in league with the 'ible writer to mass produce this item and neither are any of...

Look - I wasn't offended, so don't try to claim kudos for "setting me straight". I was incensed; there IS a difference, a situation 99% of people under 25 seem to be wholly unable to grasp. I was stating that the person who wrote this 'ible is in the USA, ergo he used his native measurement system that happens to be different from others but is NO LESS VALID. There is an SI because there has to be for international manufacturing - such as when plane parts get made in 6 different countries - otherwise we get the FUBAR that NASA managed to pull off with their martian probe doing a spectacular faceplant into the ground because they had failed to convert the numbers.You are not a manufacturing person in league with the 'ible writer to mass produce this item and neither are any of the other readers who have or EVER WILL HAVE read this 'ible, so demanding SI compliance, (in a quite haughty way I might add as though he was spokesperson for all current and future 'ible readers in perpituity) has no place here.You and everyone else are OWED NOTHING by the 'ible writer. He is not required to convert for you in the posting rules (just as tens of thousands of other 'ibles written by americans have not either), he has merely taken the time to show you his version of this 'ible that has been shown before; and for his trouble you and others have left negative comments as if he owes you something and should change his 'ible at your request - and I repeat; HE DOES NOT!!!He used Imperial because that's what he is familar with, and you and the others have absolutely no rights to request ... nay, DEMAND, anything else from him.If you wrote an 'ible in your native language I'd look at the pictures, and try to figure out what was going on, but under no circumstances would I request you change your standard method just to suit me or anyone else, because that is sheer arrogance of the kind that starts wars, and you sir are full of it.So ARDY - transpose 1 letter to the right!Oh and the only types of rulers or other measuring devices that have greater than millimeter or 64th splits are for precision work like engineering or cabinet making - you won't find them on a DIY standard tape measure - (I know because I've looked for one), which is all he used and all that was needed to proceed; thus in that scenario, inches and its sub divides are more accurate.Imperial is not "unnecessarily complicated" you and the rest just don't understand it - why do we still have yards / furlongs / stones and bunch of other units of measurements regularly used in the UK (a metric country) that are also not ruled by base 10? Yeah, can't answer that can you. (the answer is: "because they are still valid units")Why not just say "thanks for the i'ble" and move on with your life? I'm guessing because you and the person who commented about the SI "requirement", even though there's no such thing for posting an 'ible, like to feel important and that your word has more prominence and must be thus obeyed because there are more metric users than Imperial, when in reality, in this scenario, your word has as much clout as a fart in a hurricane.Yours and the other guys comment is exactly the same type of bigoted poppycock (look up the original dutch meaning as that's how I'm using it) "why don't you learn to speak / read english" whenever a none native speaker writes in very broken english in a multiplayer game, and just as arrogant.

Look - I wasn't offended, I was stating that the person who wrote this 'ible is in the USA, ergo he used his native measurement system that happens to be different from others but is NO LESS VALID. There is an SI because there has to be for international manufacturing - such as when plane parts get made in 6 different countries - otherwise we get the FUBAR that NASA managed to pull off with their martian probe doing a spectacular faceplant into the ground because they had failed to convert the numbers.You are not a manufacturing person in league with the 'ible writer to mass produce this item and neither are any of the other readers who have or EVER WILL HAVE read this 'ible, so demanding SI compliance has no place here.He used Imperial because that's what he is familar with, and you a...

Look - I wasn't offended, I was stating that the person who wrote this 'ible is in the USA, ergo he used his native measurement system that happens to be different from others but is NO LESS VALID. There is an SI because there has to be for international manufacturing - such as when plane parts get made in 6 different countries - otherwise we get the FUBAR that NASA managed to pull off with their martian probe doing a spectacular faceplant into the ground because they had failed to convert the numbers.You are not a manufacturing person in league with the 'ible writer to mass produce this item and neither are any of the other readers who have or EVER WILL HAVE read this 'ible, so demanding SI compliance has no place here.He used Imperial because that's what he is familar with, and you and the others have absolutely no rights to request ... nay, DEMAND, anything else from him.If you wrote an 'ible in your native language I'd look at the pictures, and try to figure out what was going on, but under no circumstances would I request you change your standard method just to suit me or anyone else, because that is sheer arrogance of the kind that starts wars.Oh and the only types of rulers or other measuring devices that have greater than millimeter or 64th splits are for precision work like engineering or cabinet making - you won't find them on a DIY standard tape measure - (I know because I've looked for one), which is all he used and all that was needed to proceed; thus in that scenario, inches and its sub divides are more accurate.Imperial is not "unnecessarily complicated" it's just different and it's obvious some people have difficulty grasping it - why do we still have yards / furlongs / stones and a bunch of other units of measurements regularly used in the UK (a metric country) that are also not ruled by base 10? (the answer is: "because they are still valid units")Why not just say "thanks for the i'ble" and move on with your life? I'm guessing because there are more metric users than Imperial, you feel compelled to make him comply; the arrogance.You'd stand a better chance of making him say aluminium correctly.

Look - I wasn't offended, I was stating that the person who wrote this 'ible is in the USA, ergo he used his native measurement system that happens to be different from others but is NO LESS VALID. There is an SI because there has to be for international manufacturing - such as when plane parts get made in 6 different countries - otherwise we get the FUBAR that NASA managed to pull off with their martian probe doing a spectacular faceplant into the ground because they had failed to convert the numbers.You are not a manufacturing person in league with the 'ible writer to mass produce this item and neither are any of the other readers who have or EVER WILL HAVE read this 'ible, so demanding SI compliance has no place here.He used Imperial because that's what he is familar with, and you a...

Look - I wasn't offended, I was stating that the person who wrote this 'ible is in the USA, ergo he used his native measurement system that happens to be different from others but is NO LESS VALID. There is an SI because there has to be for international manufacturing - such as when plane parts get made in 6 different countries - otherwise we get the FUBAR that NASA managed to pull off with their martian probe doing a spectacular faceplant into the ground because they had failed to convert the numbers.You are not a manufacturing person in league with the 'ible writer to mass produce this item and neither are any of the other readers who have or EVER WILL HAVE read this 'ible, so demanding SI compliance has no place here.He used Imperial because that's what he is familar with, and you and the others have absolutely no rights to request ... nay, DEMAND, anything else from him.If you wrote an 'ible in your native language I'd look at the pictures, and try to figure out what was going on, but under no circumstances would I request you change your standard method just to suit me or anyone else, because that is sheer arrogance of the kind that starts wars.Oh and the only types of rulers or other measuring devices that have greater than millimeter or 64th splits are for precision work like engineering or cabinet making - you won't find them on a DIY standard tape measure - (I know because I've looked for one), which is all he used and all that was needed to proceed; thus in that scenario, inches and its sub divides are more accurate.Imperial is not "unnecessarily complicated" it's just different and it's obvious some people have difficulty grasping it - why do we still have yards / furlongs / stones and a bunch of other units of measurements regularly used in the UK (a metric country) that are also not ruled by base 10? (the answer is: "because they are still valid units")Why not just say "thanks for the i'ble" and move on with your life? I'm guessing because there are more metric users than Imperial, you feel compelled to make him comply; the arrogance.You'd stand a better chance of making him say aluminium correctly.

Inches is valid - and the usual sytem of measurement for the USA - and the USA is NOT the only country to use them, so get used to it or, y'know, learn how to convert.PLUS, inches is actually MORE ACCURATE for everyday woodworking (which I do), because 64th's are smaller than milllimeters. Metric was introduced to use base 10 same as normal numbers for SIMPLICITY (for simple people) NOT accuracy.

Inches is valid - and the usual sytem of measurement for the USA - and the USA is NOT the only country to use them, so get used to it, or y'know learn how to convert.

If I had a space like this I'd totally do this, geat work!

You have access to a professional grade lathe yet you hand sanded? Did you make the brass sections or did someone else?

Yes the legs could be filled with quick set concrete, but you would then either need to drill and use rawl plugs to set the legs to the base / top, (which actually have LESS strength when used vertically) set wooden dowels into the concrete to screw into or still use wood blocks both ends to screw into, which IMHO sounds like more work esp as the legs are little more than pressed hardboard and I've no idea how they would react to being soaked full of water.All in all considered, I'd avoid it.

Excellent work - very envious of the bike, learning to weld has been on my "to-do" list for years. Looks like it handles pretty well, but hills might be a bit of an issue - perfect beach bike though :)

If she were ever to do any heavy lifting, this would significantly help to protect her from injuring herself, but in reality it's a costume coplay thing - for looks, not everyone thinks "the latest nike air jordan trainers" or "jeans halfway down their arse" is cool.

Great work, but if I may also add that not only should you not wear gloves for a belt sander, but you should not wear gloves for any moving powertool; sanders, routers drills, angle grinders - basically anything that can snag and bring your fingers onto a flesh damaging surface, about the only safe thing would be welding because of spatter.I'm tempted to make one that would also function as a backbrace (I work in construction) and suspenders to hold my trousers up!