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  • Wi-Fi Smart Scale (with ESP8266, Arduino IDE, Adafruit.io and IFTTT)

    "so you can see how the weight changes with time"Oh, come on now, we all know how our weight has changed over time ;)

    1. Were those the smallest sensors you could find? 2. If you moved the display or eliminated it entirely, how small could you make the transmitting circuitry? (not looking for the theoretical limit, rather what you could do with the parts available - off the shelf - as was done here)

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  • Movable Dock, Lego Style Brick Legs,  Under $300 Part I

    "Oh, use nails when possible"Funny, I would think SS Deck Screws would be preferable - esp if dismantling the project was a consideration.

    Nice project. Curious to understand why you went with the fence pickets and then with two-by material for the rest. Given you tightened up the spacing, wouldn't deck boards have served as well as the two-by-six's? Use 2 bys on the perimeter and deck boards on the 'inside.' A fellow had a pool float project made of Pool Noodles that were 5' long. He joined them into 10' lengths with a (short) piece of rubber hose or PVC pipe. In this case, the long 'channels' formed by the spacing between your support beams/boards would serve to contain eight or ten of the pool noodles with a resulting increase in buoyancy - a floating dock? Or is the water level a constant in your pond?

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  • Floating Wet Lounger Water Pad/raft for 6, Under $100

    It might prove worth your while to determine what your pool noodles are made of. With that information, you might find a suitable adhesive. "A pool noodle is a cylindrical piece of buoyantpolyethylene foam" Wikipedia Pick The Right Glue For The Job: How to Select Adhesives For Bonding Foam https://www.thefoamfactory.com

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  • How to CORRECTLY Braze (SILVER SOLDER) a Copper Pipe

    "This from Wikipedia" A source worth checking, of course. However no certainty that the information there is perfect. Best find an authoritative source or two to cite as primary sources when you can. In this case, the wiki worked.Then again, he could use PEX ;)

    Interestingly enough, TOH would suggest the MAPP Gas Kit might be a bit too hot for 1/2" and smaller copper fittings (soldering): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQMHwthAlrM

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  • How to CORRECTLY Braze (SILVER SOLDER) a Copper Pipe

    "Something else you might wanna consider is" English perhaps?It is also polite to link to or reference your sources. (Saves comments like the fellow who thought "... you started off incorrectly.") I like the following from https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techc..."The most common method of joining copper tube is with the use of a socket-type, copper or copper alloy fitting into which the tube sections are inserted and fastened by means of a filler metal, using either a soldering or brazing process. This type of joint is known as a capillary or lap joint because the socket of the fitting overlaps the tube end and a space is formed between the tube and the fitting. This space is called the capillary space. The surfaces of fitting and tube that overlap ...

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    "Something else you might wanna consider is" English perhaps?It is also polite to link to or reference your sources. (Saves comments like the fellow who thought "... you started off incorrectly.") I like the following from https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techc..."The most common method of joining copper tube is with the use of a socket-type, copper or copper alloy fitting into which the tube sections are inserted and fastened by means of a filler metal, using either a soldering or brazing process. This type of joint is known as a capillary or lap joint because the socket of the fitting overlaps the tube end and a space is formed between the tube and the fitting. This space is called the capillary space. The surfaces of fitting and tube that overlap to form the joint are known as the faying surfaces. Tube and fitting are then solidly joined using a filler metal that is melted into the capillary space and adheres to these surfaces."The filler metal is a metal alloy that has a melting temperature below that of either the tube or fitting. The melting point of copper (Cu) alloy UNS C12200 is 1,981°F/1082°C. As such, the filler metals for soldering and brazing copper and copper alloy tube and fittings must have melting temperatures below this temperature."The basic difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature necessary to melt the filler metal. That temperature is defined to be 842ºF/450ºC by the American Welding Society (AWS) but is often rounded to 840ºF. If the filler metal melts below 840ºF the process being performed is soldering. Above that temperature, the process is brazing."Brazed joints are generally used to achieve higher joint strength or fatigue resistance. To accomplish this, filler metals stronger than those composed primarily of tin must be used. However, this increased strength generally comes from filler metals made of materials that melt at higher temperatures. The brazing temperatures for most of the brazing alloys used to joint copper piping systems (BCuP and BAg alloys see below) are roughly between 1,150°F/621°C and 1,550°F/843°C."The most commonly used brazing filler metal types, used to join copper tube and fittings fall into two distinct categories:BCuP Alloy (pronounced b-cup) - where the B stands for Brazing, Cu is the chemical symbol for Copper, and P is the chemical symbol for Phosphorous. Therefore, a BCuP brazing alloy is primarily a copper-phosphorous brazing alloy that may contain from 0%-30% Silver (Ag).BAg Alloy (pronounced bag) - where the B stands for Brazing and Ag is the chemical symbol for Silver. While there are other elements found in BAg alloys besides silver, the majority of BAg alloys may contain silver content of anywhere between 24% and 93%.

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  • The Wrong Way to Make a River Table

    There's a song titled "Muddy River," no? And a Musician "Muddy Rivers?" And a Mississippi (Big Muddy) River. And at least on Song lyric 'muddy river.'Now we have a Muddy Rivers Table

    I wonder, too, if keeping the form "WARM" with a heat source (NOT AN OPEN FLAME) below the work, would have had the effect of raising any bubbles to the surface / eliminating bubbles?I built a darkroom sink in 1971 using fiberglass resin to 'FLOAT' the bottom of the sink. As I recall, there were no bubbles. Nor can I recall ever doing anything to prevent them. I did embed a coin in the resin. I think the resulting color was a bit green. BTW, if you build such a sink, elevate the end with the drain before flooding the form with resin. Then, when you're done and the sink is leveled during the install, fluids will flow toward the drain.

    Never fail! It's not a failed attempt at a River Table, rather a successful attempt at a burnt resin finish resulting in a Muddy Rivers Casual Table - Or a Smithfield Bacon Breakfast Table.As often as not, the art we celebrate may be nothing like the intention that gave it birth - and almost certainly not exactly what was planned.

    Well, in this case, I think the "One learns more from one's mistakes than success' " might prove more apt.And, isn;t it all to often the fact that the lesson learned from one's enemies is the last learned?

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  • How to Build a Simple and Strong Miter Saw Station

    "Place your miter saw in the center of the middle shelf with the handle sticking out the front for easy movement and then attach using long screws or lag bolts depending on the size of your mounting holes."One concern would be the plane of the saw bas relative to those of the tables at either side. When cutting long stock, so much of the material is supported by one or both table surfaces that it is difficult to position the material flush to the saw base and back supports.It may be wise to elevate the saw table relative to the extension(s) so that LONG STOCK is not influenced by 'distortions' in the side extensions/tables.I tried building mine precisely in the same plain - then the weather changed and the wood followed suite!Man proposes, God disposes.

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  • Bent Laminated Bench From a Sheet of Plywood

    With Plywood, the grain alternates roughly 90 degrees with each layer, thus about half of the thickness of any strip, has the grain running perpendicular to the length of the piece thus amenable to such a bending.The Design is an unfaithful copy of one done using solid wood (Oak?) strips which is a very old approach to 'curving' wood forms that offers the benefit of greater strength than might be had using strips of plywood in such a configuration. See the inspiration/original at https://youtu.be/1frUIQcIg8U

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  • DIY Camper Van Conversion Bed Build, Bed Converts to a Couch! #VANLIFE

    Well, if it is practical you find impressive, how about my other invention "Lowpost Bubble Wrap?" By filling the bubble wrap with helium (they would not approve the Hydrogen-filled prototypes) we were able to reduce the postage costs to nil.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Kink Jarfold's instructable I MADE a DADO JIG4 weeks ago
    I MADE a DADO JIG

    With a 1/4" od 5/16" straight bit, you could use this jig to create the slots used to adjust a jig like this! Then, you wouldn't need Fender Washers!Nice instructable. Using the click-lock flooring - brilliant! I knew there was a reason I saved that extra flooring.By the way, I used the excess kitchen flooring to finish the toe-kicks in our last kitchen - worked very well.

    Mine said "Watch the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves." Had a thought. One of the rails that guide the router can move to allow adjusting the dado width. The support that lines the jig up with the board to be 'dadoed' is fixed and square on one end/side. The other/opposite support 'hangs out there' unless the board being cut is wide enough.However, if you cut slots on the one side of the rails, you could slide the 'other/opposite' support flush to the board being 'dadoed.' IMHO, this would make the jig more stable.BTW - the bit I see in your router appears to be a half-inch roundover. Ar you using a top-bearing bit to cut the dados? Since your router base has a 'flat' spot, guiding it using the base might prove problematic. With a tpo bearing bit, the edg...

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    Mine said "Watch the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves." Had a thought. One of the rails that guide the router can move to allow adjusting the dado width. The support that lines the jig up with the board to be 'dadoed' is fixed and square on one end/side. The other/opposite support 'hangs out there' unless the board being cut is wide enough.However, if you cut slots on the one side of the rails, you could slide the 'other/opposite' support flush to the board being 'dadoed.' IMHO, this would make the jig more stable.BTW - the bit I see in your router appears to be a half-inch roundover. Ar you using a top-bearing bit to cut the dados? Since your router base has a 'flat' spot, guiding it using the base might prove problematic. With a tpo bearing bit, the edge of the bearing is 'at' the edge of the bit (same plane) so setting the guides to the width of the board meant to fit into the dado, gives you a dado the width of the board used to set teh jig.

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  • USB FOAM CUTTER - USB STYROFOAM CUTTER

    Of course, there is no need for threads at all as all the fittings shown are available as SLIP fittings. The Elbows (as we call them in Texas) can be glued in place and the other two fittings would not need to be secured at all (given the design shown).I would look into the idea of installing a PUSH TO CLOSE switch on the 'handle' part of the foam cutter positioned so that it could be operated by a thumb. With such a switch, one could never forget to turn it off when not in use!

    "The threads can be made by . . ." buying risers instead of pipe. Orbit Brand (example) http://cdn6.bigcommerce.com/s-jmii6ithyk/products/310/images/553/38083_2__76815.1489797262.500.659.jpg?c=2 a "1" x 12" PVC Sprinkler Head Riser Pipe Irrigation System Nipple - 38232" They come in various lengths from about 3" to 24"

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  • DIY Camper Van Conversion Bed Build, Bed Converts to a Couch! #VANLIFE

    Two 4x8 sheets of 3/32" "doors skin" plywood will weigh less than half that of a 1/2" sheet of plywood. If you've never built one (torsion box), it may be hard to imagine the difference in weight - you can get an idea by checking out the hollow-core doors at Lowes or Home Depot or search Torsion Box Designs on the web.Yes, the labor is a bit more intensive - creating an interlocking lattice work of interior 'ribs' is different but simple and straight forwards - and the results are worth the extra planning and effort.Everything you build into that van increases the load and thus increases the cost of operation. You could achieve something similar by gluing the plywood to foam boards instead of the interior lattice work - possibly not as strong, but enough for the inte...

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    Two 4x8 sheets of 3/32" "doors skin" plywood will weigh less than half that of a 1/2" sheet of plywood. If you've never built one (torsion box), it may be hard to imagine the difference in weight - you can get an idea by checking out the hollow-core doors at Lowes or Home Depot or search Torsion Box Designs on the web.Yes, the labor is a bit more intensive - creating an interlocking lattice work of interior 'ribs' is different but simple and straight forwards - and the results are worth the extra planning and effort.Everything you build into that van increases the load and thus increases the cost of operation. You could achieve something similar by gluing the plywood to foam boards instead of the interior lattice work - possibly not as strong, but enough for the intended application.

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  • DIY Camper Van Conversion Bed Build, Bed Converts to a Couch! #VANLIFE

    "The bed platform"Needn't use 1/2" plywood - way too heavy! Try that 5/32?? "Door Skin" stuff at Lowes or HD and glue up a torsion box - assuming you wanted it that thick, use the 2x2's but cut them down to 2x1" for the perimeter and 2 x 1/4" for the interior supports and use more of them. Actually, you could use corrugated cardboard for the interior. The weight reduction will prove significant and the strength will be equal or better. Then, if you use an air mattress and fill it with helium, just think of the gas you'll save!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on randofo's instructable IPhone Camera Spinner7 weeks ago
    IPhone Camera Spinner

    Yes, I understand that. Lord knows how many times I've balanced the tires on a vehicle. There is also an issue of the plane of the spinning disc - think of balancing tires and weights on the inside and outside of the wheel. Since we can assume all Iphones are the same dimensions printing a 'disc' with two, three or four Iphone pockets seemed a very simple approach.I suspect that balancing with any other counter-weight could require considerable trial and error, no? Then there's the issue of how to fasten the counter weight where it needs to be as well.Hey, what happened to all those folks who couldn't understand the value of building this contraption?It is not always the result - often it is the process!

    Ah, yes, a counterweight. Now, where might you get something that weighed in at exactly as many grams as an Iphone? Hmmm, It is a puzzlement, Yes?If I had Autodesk, I wonder if I could design a case that would hold an Iphone and provide a hole to allow the camera to 'see' while the Iphone was in its holder. Maybe a case that could hold three Iphones arrayed about a central point on some sort of circular disk with the openings of the three holders oriented toward the center of the disk so that, as the disk spun, centrifugal forces pressed the Iphones securely into their respective pockets. Three, three, three simultaneous silly spinning videos at once! By its nature the disk could be printed such that the central point was thicker - thick enough to support an armature that would 'lock' i...

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    Ah, yes, a counterweight. Now, where might you get something that weighed in at exactly as many grams as an Iphone? Hmmm, It is a puzzlement, Yes?If I had Autodesk, I wonder if I could design a case that would hold an Iphone and provide a hole to allow the camera to 'see' while the Iphone was in its holder. Maybe a case that could hold three Iphones arrayed about a central point on some sort of circular disk with the openings of the three holders oriented toward the center of the disk so that, as the disk spun, centrifugal forces pressed the Iphones securely into their respective pockets. Three, three, three simultaneous silly spinning videos at once! By its nature the disk could be printed such that the central point was thicker - thick enough to support an armature that would 'lock' into the printed disk as it fit the depressions printed into the 'front' of the disk and was held tightly by a reversed threaded nut on the rear. Similarly, ridges radiating outward from the center (both faces) printed into the disk (maybe a Carbon Fiber Printer?) would add rigidity w/o adding weight.Now, the best way to project these images . . . Well, first, let's see how your kickstarter works out before I design the projector.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Fishers Shop's instructable Waving American Flag7 weeks ago
    Waving American Flag

    Wow! Worth the effort to make one! Patent the design before we see them with a Made With Cheap Labor Label!Given the thickness of the project, maybe a French Cleat to hang it? Just rout out a DADO(?) along the back and finish off the top with the dovetail bit used to create the hanger/cleat.By the way, that little green Planer Accessory Material Catcher is cool. I didn't see that option when I bought my DeWalt 735!A couple of edits: "Do your best to stay on the line when cutting," Stay on the Waste Side of the line, No? "(there's 6 of them)" or (there're 6 of them) or, better yet (there are 6)Really good job and video. Arbortech owes you! Next time, when to give the model number of a product Add "SF" or "FS" to the model number/description &q...

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    Wow! Worth the effort to make one! Patent the design before we see them with a Made With Cheap Labor Label!Given the thickness of the project, maybe a French Cleat to hang it? Just rout out a DADO(?) along the back and finish off the top with the dovetail bit used to create the hanger/cleat.By the way, that little green Planer Accessory Material Catcher is cool. I didn't see that option when I bought my DeWalt 735!A couple of edits: "Do your best to stay on the line when cutting," Stay on the Waste Side of the line, No? "(there's 6 of them)" or (there're 6 of them) or, better yet (there are 6)Really good job and video. Arbortech owes you! Next time, when to give the model number of a product Add "SF" or "FS" to the model number/description "TurboPlane Model FS-9 from ArborTech." That way, when the customers call, chat or write because they "can't find it on the web site," the vendor will know whence the orders are coming from.

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  • How to Make a SOFA That Turns Into a BED

    - Detailed Plans: https://gumroad.com/diycreators- (6) 2 by 12 Southern yellow pine - (5) 2 by 3 lumber - (6) 1 by 4 lumber - 1/2in dowels - lots Screws - Wood GlueSo, yes there is a B.O.M. and No, there isn't either as the writer offers but two of the three dimensions expected!

    If you look at the approach again and, then imagine what you are suggesting, the answer should be obvious. The 4x1" slats, would need to be almost as long as the couch is wide and, thus offer precious little support to a mattress - not raise the question "Where would one find a mattress that long! Short answer "No!"

    Very well done video and build.Heavy, however!As to the screws at the back, simply fasten and clamp the pieces together then, instead of drilling for the screws, drill for half-inch dowels. Then glue it up and pound 1/2" dowels to line it up and hold it together. Cut the dowels a bit long, then sand them flat after the glue dries. No screws showing, no screw holes to cover/fill. One small addition to the 'pull-out' slats might be a piece of 1" stock fit to the underneath of each P-O Slat such that it would catch on the front support rail when the front was pulled out to 'The Max.' If you wanted to remove the P-O section completely, you would simply tilt it up to clear the 'stops.'

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on dedehai's instructable Batteryless Bicycle Safety Light 2 months ago
    Batteryless Bicycle Safety Light

    First thing I thought of was adding a capacitor - before I read the Instructable through! Then I saw, in the comments where someone else had the same thought and it was hashed out. It appeared that it could be done, though it was argued, not to any great effect. Admittedly, I was under the impression that such an addition might 'extend the blinks.' Not provide 'continuous illumination," but extend the 'on' time created with each pass of the magnet.I did not realize that the magnet would generate pulses of opposing polarity with each pass. I suspect the addition of a diode would eliminate the second (reverse) pulse as one suggested would be required to add a capacitor.I love the idea of recycling the relay - brilliant! I missed the discussion on the differences between a 12VDC and 5...

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    First thing I thought of was adding a capacitor - before I read the Instructable through! Then I saw, in the comments where someone else had the same thought and it was hashed out. It appeared that it could be done, though it was argued, not to any great effect. Admittedly, I was under the impression that such an addition might 'extend the blinks.' Not provide 'continuous illumination," but extend the 'on' time created with each pass of the magnet.I did not realize that the magnet would generate pulses of opposing polarity with each pass. I suspect the addition of a diode would eliminate the second (reverse) pulse as one suggested would be required to add a capacitor.I love the idea of recycling the relay - brilliant! I missed the discussion on the differences between a 12VDC and 5VDC version as to which might be the most effective. Good job.

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  • How to Fix a Hole in a Hollow Core Door

    I went to the HD website and priced the materials at $73 before tax. Then I priced a new door slab: Masonite 30 in. x 80 in. Textured 6-Panel Hollow Core Primed Composite Interior Door Slab Model# 16474 $31.98. (The smooth door was about four bucks less). *None the less, your craftsmanship is to be envied. One note about the foam filler/sealant, however. I would think the Window and Door variety the first choice for such an application as the Standard stuff has been known to move window and door jabs as it expands (making it difficult (impossible?) to open the window or close the door.) It also does well in moist environments (adhesion-wise) I've been told - so, spritzing a little water into the cavity to be filled should make for an even firmer fix.* replacing the door would require ...

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    I went to the HD website and priced the materials at $73 before tax. Then I priced a new door slab: Masonite 30 in. x 80 in. Textured 6-Panel Hollow Core Primed Composite Interior Door Slab Model# 16474 $31.98. (The smooth door was about four bucks less). *None the less, your craftsmanship is to be envied. One note about the foam filler/sealant, however. I would think the Window and Door variety the first choice for such an application as the Standard stuff has been known to move window and door jabs as it expands (making it difficult (impossible?) to open the window or close the door.) It also does well in moist environments (adhesion-wise) I've been told - so, spritzing a little water into the cavity to be filled should make for an even firmer fix.* replacing the door would require matching and mortising hinge locations.

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  • Build a Hover Craft in Less Than an Hour!

    "Aidan said will always remember this."Poor grammar - "Kaleb, Camden and I will always remember this."Because one would not say "me will always remember this."Neat project.Not sure you needed to cut that 'ring out of another 34" square sheet of plywood, however. Why not use simple strips?Also, why no sealant between the tarp and the top of the plywood it was folded onto?I've got an old leaf blower and some plywood . . . hmmm

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  • Reclaimed Lumber Scalable-size Wood Kiln

    "...I dumbly assumed they were empty."Maybe there were eggs laid and the little mothers had left?

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  • Wi-Fi Smart Scale (with ESP8266, Arduino IDE, Adafruit.io and IFTTT)

    "RFID card, fingerprint"First is PassiveSecond is Active, Opt-inApplication requires differentiating as between two members of the same household using the same scale.

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  • Wi-Fi Smart Scale (with ESP8266, Arduino IDE, Adafruit.io and IFTTT)

    "logic, base on the expected weight of each user,"Yes, that was the best solution I came up with as well.If you place the screen up high enough, a user could select his (or her) colored button or digit I suppose.Difficult to implant a chip in a customer via Amazon, so I had to scrap that idea right off the bat.

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  • Wi-Fi Smart Scale (with ESP8266, Arduino IDE, Adafruit.io and IFTTT)

    Wood working Contest! Or, did I read that wrong?The WiFi aspect of this project piqued my interest. I have long labored under the impression that data from a device such as this one you've created (and the two commercial versions linked to - thanks) could be sent to a Google Apps Database on the net so that daily readings, for instance, might be stored over time and analyzed at will.Is this essentially what you've programmed?I read the specs provided by the Xiaomi and Lenovo units you provided links to. They seemed to depend upon a proprietary app as opposed to the sort of generic solution using freely available software tools I was hoping might be done.Have you thought of how to program the device such that two or three uses might use the same scale? Husband and wife, perhaps. How to f...

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    Wood working Contest! Or, did I read that wrong?The WiFi aspect of this project piqued my interest. I have long labored under the impression that data from a device such as this one you've created (and the two commercial versions linked to - thanks) could be sent to a Google Apps Database on the net so that daily readings, for instance, might be stored over time and analyzed at will.Is this essentially what you've programmed?I read the specs provided by the Xiaomi and Lenovo units you provided links to. They seemed to depend upon a proprietary app as opposed to the sort of generic solution using freely available software tools I was hoping might be done.Have you thought of how to program the device such that two or three uses might use the same scale? Husband and wife, perhaps. How to fix it so the device distinguished between the two and uploaded the data to the respective web app.

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  • Easy Outdoor Cinder Block Benches

    The Geometry/Symmetry is outstanding - eye-catching. Color scheme does not hurt either!Your wrote a line that caught my eye as well: "Again, if you only overlap the posts by the max depth of the circular saw, you can avoid this step."Frankly, if the saw's depth of cut is less than one-half the thickness of the lumber, you cannot create a half-lap joint at all.Check to see if your saw will take a 7.5" blade some may take an eight-inch blade. Put the post up an sawhorses with the 'mating end to your RIGHT. Set the depth, then make the 'left-most" cut, then and other a quarter to 3/8" toward the end of the post and repeat until the next cut would be off the post.Take a hammer and hit the pieces left standing and they will fall away. Then take a chisel and 'clean u...

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    The Geometry/Symmetry is outstanding - eye-catching. Color scheme does not hurt either!Your wrote a line that caught my eye as well: "Again, if you only overlap the posts by the max depth of the circular saw, you can avoid this step."Frankly, if the saw's depth of cut is less than one-half the thickness of the lumber, you cannot create a half-lap joint at all.Check to see if your saw will take a 7.5" blade some may take an eight-inch blade. Put the post up an sawhorses with the 'mating end to your RIGHT. Set the depth, then make the 'left-most" cut, then and other a quarter to 3/8" toward the end of the post and repeat until the next cut would be off the post.Take a hammer and hit the pieces left standing and they will fall away. Then take a chisel and 'clean up' the lap by removing what remains. Search Cutting Half-Lap Joints on YouTube several examples there.

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  • How to Flatten Boards With Just a Planer

    Well, I don't have the Engineering answer either. But the torsion box is (pound for pound) more rigid than a solid piece of the same material as a Steel Tube is more rigid than a Steel Rod.

    "The key is getting that box beam rigid enough." Look at Torsion Box Construction. I've built large (door sized) platforms using light weight 'Door Skins' over a torsion box interior with great results. The interior pieces I used were 1/4" x 1" x Length and I used 1" x 1" x Length for the 'outside' edges.

    Don't get that MDF near a humid environment or store it wrong! Better to use OSB Flooring than MDF if you must ignore the Torsion Box idea. His torsion box was a really simple version. He could have made one as wide as his DeWalt planer bed - 12" or so. Then he might have used six thin strips of birch plywood evenly spaced within: Look at: http://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/05/15/build-a-... for one large T-box and, the way I built mine here: For something that is just 12" wide, all the materials can be scaled down accordingly.

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  • Glass Roof Pergola for Less Than £300!

    Always a good idea to do some research before making such a sweeping statement. Similar structures may go by different names in different nations, city states, counties or even towns. In the instant case, it may be worth noting that, in Scotland They call Haggis 'food!.'So I went to get a definition because structures for the 'express purpose' of growing trailing vines or (trailing) flowers are called trellis' where I grew up. Here's what I found: A pergola is an outdoor structure consisting of columns that support a roofing grid of beams and rafters. This roofing grid may be left open or covered so as to create an area sheltered from the elements. Pergolas may be freestanding or attached to a house.In order to gain a better grasp of the definition for "pergola," it is helpful...

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    Always a good idea to do some research before making such a sweeping statement. Similar structures may go by different names in different nations, city states, counties or even towns. In the instant case, it may be worth noting that, in Scotland They call Haggis 'food!.'So I went to get a definition because structures for the 'express purpose' of growing trailing vines or (trailing) flowers are called trellis' where I grew up. Here's what I found: A pergola is an outdoor structure consisting of columns that support a roofing grid of beams and rafters. This roofing grid may be left open or covered so as to create an area sheltered from the elements. Pergolas may be freestanding or attached to a house.In order to gain a better grasp of the definition for "pergola," it is helpful to compare and contrast it with other outdoor structures with which it is sometimes associated, including: Arbors, Gazebos, Trellises, Lattice (or "latticework"), Carports. https://www.thespruce.com/what-is-a-pergola-2131097

    The builder here did NOT USE GLASS, he used clear plastic. In Florida, Home Depot and LOWES have plastic especially designed and intended for such exterior canopys.Check your Building Codes as you will want to consider WIND as well as drizzle when construction such improvements to your residence (lest, when you go to sell, the buyer's lender will demand it be rebuilt to code or removed as a condition of lending!If you do decide to ignore the last bit of advice, at least consider that, with the pitch to the thing intended to carry the rain away from the house (good idea), it will create a sheet of rain water at the end away from the house unless you include a gutter and downspout.As to the vines, be careful what you wish for and grown against your home's exterior walls. Some vines can ...

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    The builder here did NOT USE GLASS, he used clear plastic. In Florida, Home Depot and LOWES have plastic especially designed and intended for such exterior canopys.Check your Building Codes as you will want to consider WIND as well as drizzle when construction such improvements to your residence (lest, when you go to sell, the buyer's lender will demand it be rebuilt to code or removed as a condition of lending!If you do decide to ignore the last bit of advice, at least consider that, with the pitch to the thing intended to carry the rain away from the house (good idea), it will create a sheet of rain water at the end away from the house unless you include a gutter and downspout.As to the vines, be careful what you wish for and grown against your home's exterior walls. Some vines can be most destructive, getting between siding and structure - even getting into and damaging mortar joints.

    Ah, so it's a crook you are? You do realize eBay can read your confession, right.

    Home Depot: Palruf 26 in. x 12 ft. Clear PVC Roofing PanelModel# 100427(39)$22.47Suntuf 26 in. x 6 ft. Polycarbonate Roof Panel in ClearModel# 155030(172)$15.35Suntuf 24 in. Horizontal Plastic Closure Strips (6-Pack)Model# 92770(122)$5.47 /bagSuntuf 24 in. Universal Plastic Closure Strips (6-Pack)Model# 92772(47)$5.47 /baghttps://www.instructables.com/id/Glass-Roof-Pergola-for-Less-Than-300/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on aglepetsos01's instructable Homemade Pontoon Boat4 months ago
    Homemade Pontoon Boat

    What about sail craft in TN?

    In the descriptions, it appears that you are using the term 'particle board' to refer to Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Absolutely NO WAY is Particle Board suitable for damp (much less wet) areas or use out of doors (much less in a lake!).OSB, on the other hand, can stand exposure to water provided it has an opportunity to dry. However, if it suffers constant exposure to the elements, it will not survive as long as the two-by Pressure Treated lumber used (you did use pt, right?) for the framing.I noticed you pulled the barrels to the center of the platform, leaving the platform over-hanging the barrel ends at each side/end. This is not the most stable configuration. If you want to keep the 10 x 7 dimensions, move the barrels flush to the ends and leave the 'gap' in the center of the craf...

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    In the descriptions, it appears that you are using the term 'particle board' to refer to Oriented Strand Board (OSB). Absolutely NO WAY is Particle Board suitable for damp (much less wet) areas or use out of doors (much less in a lake!).OSB, on the other hand, can stand exposure to water provided it has an opportunity to dry. However, if it suffers constant exposure to the elements, it will not survive as long as the two-by Pressure Treated lumber used (you did use pt, right?) for the framing.I noticed you pulled the barrels to the center of the platform, leaving the platform over-hanging the barrel ends at each side/end. This is not the most stable configuration. If you want to keep the 10 x 7 dimensions, move the barrels flush to the ends and leave the 'gap' in the center of the craft. Or cut the craft down to fit the barrels tightly all around.As to the metal straps, the first tip was correct as the the best way to fasten the strapping. However, I would look for PLASTIC strapping - given the submerged application. The straps are not holding much - the framing keeps the barrels from moving laterally and the water keeps them from falling off the frame (and, when on the lake, the lake holds them up tight!).. I would think that the bow and stern should parallel the sides of the barrels as opposed to the ends as (I suspect) the FLAT ends create more drag then would the ROUNDED barrel sides.If I can get hold of enough small barrels, I'll copy your basic design to use as a floating platform on my pond.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on MadeByBarb's instructable Crumpled Concrete Vases5 months ago
    Crumpled Concrete Vases

    Neat trick. Do you know he GENERIC term for the type of concrete you are using? Or the mix?That you can pour it to create a vessel is unique. Years (48) ago, doing ceramics, we would carve a it of Styrofoam (I think) to serve as the shape of the void, cover the Styrofoam with the clay, then (once the clay had begun to set up - but before it could dry and SHRINK) we poured acetone over the Styrofoam and it melted away. This allows for a variety of options to shape the void. With a mix that sets up as quickly as yours (and does not appear to shrink as it cures) I suspect you might find this approach worth trying.

    After posting that, I spent some time looking at your site. There I found several approaches to creating hollow forms as well as some very interesting ideas and projects.Adding 'white glue' to concrete has been 'round a long time. In the seventies, I cemented some faux stones to the walls of my kitchen (OMG, what was I thinking!) and they suggested adding some sort of 'white glue' to help hold the (somewhat heavy) stones to the vertical wall surface. Since, I've see similar products at Lowes, HD, etc. 'shelved' in the (pardon the pun) Concrete Aisle. Woodworking 'yellow' glues might work as well - Titebond III is supposedly weather proof once set.I liked the Ghoul on the Steps creation. Ripe for some of the new LED Lighting that allows a single bulb to produce a variety of colors, pa...

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    After posting that, I spent some time looking at your site. There I found several approaches to creating hollow forms as well as some very interesting ideas and projects.Adding 'white glue' to concrete has been 'round a long time. In the seventies, I cemented some faux stones to the walls of my kitchen (OMG, what was I thinking!) and they suggested adding some sort of 'white glue' to help hold the (somewhat heavy) stones to the vertical wall surface. Since, I've see similar products at Lowes, HD, etc. 'shelved' in the (pardon the pun) Concrete Aisle. Woodworking 'yellow' glues might work as well - Titebond III is supposedly weather proof once set.I liked the Ghoul on the Steps creation. Ripe for some of the new LED Lighting that allows a single bulb to produce a variety of colors, patterns and 'effects.' Next Christmas, look to the Displays for likely candidates - then wait ''till 12/25 or 1/3 to shop the Seventy-Five Percent Off Sales!As you pointed out, one could hide several bulbs and such inside that figure - even a MOTION SENSOR and/or an outdoor speaker.Great ideas you have, excellent execution.

    "Would love to see the stone wall!"I sold that hose fifty years ago!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on diymontreal's instructable Tapering Jig5 months ago
    Tapering Jig

    toilet bolts are fine, I suppose. However, they do sell T-bolts for this application - search for "POWERTEC QTB1002 Tee Bolt" (or T-bolt) on Amazon and elsewhere. They don't come with the break-away feature found on the brass Toilet bolts. They also come in 1/4" and 516" inch diameters and are rather 'standard' bits for jig building.As to Gorilla Glue to fasten the runner, any yellow wood glue will do better. The yellow glues do not EXPAND. For the application in question, the dimes are a good trick; then set the TS fence to form a stop and apply the glue to the top of the runner (in the slot) and lay the jig on it using the TS fence as a lateral guide. Then, lift the jig (the runner MAY come up with it) and move the runner back and forth (lengthwise) along the jig ...

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    toilet bolts are fine, I suppose. However, they do sell T-bolts for this application - search for "POWERTEC QTB1002 Tee Bolt" (or T-bolt) on Amazon and elsewhere. They don't come with the break-away feature found on the brass Toilet bolts. They also come in 1/4" and 516" inch diameters and are rather 'standard' bits for jig building.As to Gorilla Glue to fasten the runner, any yellow wood glue will do better. The yellow glues do not EXPAND. For the application in question, the dimes are a good trick; then set the TS fence to form a stop and apply the glue to the top of the runner (in the slot) and lay the jig on it using the TS fence as a lateral guide. Then, lift the jig (the runner MAY come up with it) and move the runner back and forth (lengthwise) along the jig to even out the glue and get it 'tacky.' Then, put the runner back in the mire slot and position the jig on top as before and apply weight.In this manner, the glue will set a bit quicker and more evenly - if there is any squeeze-out, wipe it off while you've the opportunity!Nice jig. Good job and good instructions and resource detail.

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  • Hacking TV Tuner to Read Earth Photos From Satellites

    You can get a male Coax connector - Mouser #530-142-0701-301 - intended to mount to a PCB. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cinch-Connec...Or, use an old Twin Lead to Coax adapter.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Alabaster_Shelf's instructable Charcoal Gray Winter Coat5 months ago
    Charcoal Gray Winter Coat

    My mother was one for sewing - never appreciated the work (and patience) involved. Your Instructable was impressive. Your result even more sew!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on hyunyoung_kim's instructable KnobSlider5 months ago
    KnobSlider

    While I have no idea what this is or what it is intended to do, I am amazed at the complexity of the project - it reminds me of hearing a symphony and imagining how anyone could sit down and write all those parts for the orchestra A mechanical Bach!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Thingking's instructable Water Saving Toilet-Mounted Basin6 months ago
    Water Saving Toilet-Mounted Basin

    My apologies, then, for not reading fully!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Thingking's instructable Water Saving Toilet-Mounted Basin6 months ago
    Water Saving Toilet-Mounted Basin

    Given the way a standard toilet is designed to flush and re-fill. this solution would not save/re-use any water - though it would add grey water to the water used to flush your toilet.If you look into the toilet tank, you will find float mechanism that controls the fill valve for the toilet so that the incoming water shuts off once the tank has been filled to the proper level.If you were to over ride this float (hold it down, for instance), the water would continue to flow into the tank. At some point the water level would rise above the elevated drain tube designed to prevent over-filling should the float valve fail.Thus, after you flush your toilet, the tank is automatically re-filled. If you were to use this basin, the water running down its drain would fill the tank a bit more than...

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    Given the way a standard toilet is designed to flush and re-fill. this solution would not save/re-use any water - though it would add grey water to the water used to flush your toilet.If you look into the toilet tank, you will find float mechanism that controls the fill valve for the toilet so that the incoming water shuts off once the tank has been filled to the proper level.If you were to over ride this float (hold it down, for instance), the water would continue to flow into the tank. At some point the water level would rise above the elevated drain tube designed to prevent over-filling should the float valve fail.Thus, after you flush your toilet, the tank is automatically re-filled. If you were to use this basin, the water running down its drain would fill the tank a bit more than the level set, then run down the overflow tube into the toilet and out the toilet drain.Another short-coming is the implicit requirement that one use this toilet-mounted sink to wash their hands and brush their teeth. While, I suppose, not necessarily unsanitary - definitely less than appealing.Although, as my wife reminds me, they use a similar combination fixture (usually out of stainless steel) in many prisons.

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  • Spiral Cut a Wooden Dowel Using a Table Saw

    SEARS sold a CRAFTSMAN ROUTER CRAFTER MODEL 720:25250 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ7NYL0HnsQ that you may find on Craigslist for less than fifty dollars.It is designed for using a router to cut the grooves - worth it if you're wanting to make more than one such piece oar need to make 'duplicates.'This, however was a good instructable. Might also try using a Dado Blade if the wider groove was intended.Also thought that, were the wood dowel's OD close to the ID of a PVC pipe (or fittings) the rest could be designed to allow the dowel to be held in place inside a section of PVC pipe.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Router Planer6 months ago
    Router Planer

    I thought that 'flooding' the work piece with an epoxy resin, letting it fully cure and then using this router approach might keep the pieces in place during planing and provide a filler in the process so that the finished project had no gaps between individual pieces of wood/branches, etc. After planing, another coating could be applied to 'finish' the surface nicely - perhaps a poly urethane.

    I noticed the router base was made of three-ply. If you added some one by support strips to the top of each edge they would stiffen the base without interfering with the process. I suspect pressure on the router would tend to lower the bit in the center of each pass if the base were to 'flex.' You might also look to Birch Plywood as it is built with many layers and is less likely to flex.Then, mount your Belt Sander on a similar sled to finish the job! (Hmmm, how to do that!!??)

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on tomatoskins's instructable 20 Unusual Uses for Shop Tools6 months ago
    20 Unusual Uses for Shop Tools

    Harbor Freight Tools has them.8 Pc Bolstered Screwdriver Set (hex at end of handle). Mayhew Select 66306 Cats Paw Screwdriver Set, 10-Piece (Amazon) More Money Hex on Shank. See GRIP http://gripontools.net/product/grip-grand-rapids-industrial-63072-go-thru-hex-bolster-screwdriver-set-8-piece/ However, adding a six-inch wrench for extra torque may simply help destroy a cheap Phillips Head screw quicker. It might serve for someone with a limp wrist to reach the torque required to set a screw in place, To release a 'frozen' Slotted or Phillips Head screw, the extra torque may prove more harmful than helpful. One of those hand-held Impact Drivers might be better as it keeps the bit into the screw head as the force is applied to the screw head. Usually, it just takes a little bit of turnin...

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    Harbor Freight Tools has them.8 Pc Bolstered Screwdriver Set (hex at end of handle). Mayhew Select 66306 Cats Paw Screwdriver Set, 10-Piece (Amazon) More Money Hex on Shank. See GRIP http://gripontools.net/product/grip-grand-rapids-industrial-63072-go-thru-hex-bolster-screwdriver-set-8-piece/ However, adding a six-inch wrench for extra torque may simply help destroy a cheap Phillips Head screw quicker. It might serve for someone with a limp wrist to reach the torque required to set a screw in place, To release a 'frozen' Slotted or Phillips Head screw, the extra torque may prove more harmful than helpful. One of those hand-held Impact Drivers might be better as it keeps the bit into the screw head as the force is applied to the screw head. Usually, it just takes a little bit of turning to 'break' the screw (or bolt) free. If in metal (Machine Screw), WD-40 and similar products should be applied before attempting to free a frozen screw. Heat helps as well. Brute force applied to a frozen screw is as likely to destroy the screw head as release the screw - then, you'll need another tool!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on yuriysklyar's instructable Bunk Bed With No Screws6 months ago
    Bunk Bed With No Screws

    Are you thinking of a wedged tenon approach?

    "Better Homes and Gardens Leighton Twin Over Twin Wood Bunk Bed, Mu ... Walmart $179 "I got our last one from Big Lots. Apparently, they no longer carry that model. I recall it was about $180 before tax and w/o mattresses. Apparently prices in CA are higher and inflation has hit the Bunk Bed market!

    If the tenons on the side pieces were split in the middle of the long dimension and the receiving 'mortise' through the end panels were cut (like a dove tail - narrow in the inside and wide on the outside) the sides could be fitted snugly and then secured by inserting the long wedge into the slot.In the image I found, two wedges were employed horizontally. If you imagine a single wedge inserted vertically you'll get a 'picture' of what I attempted to describe above.Easier written, I suppose, than programmed into a machine!I assume that, if I had access to a CNC machine, I could cut the through mortises precisely so the wedged side was so many sixteenths wider than the other side with the required angle such that, once the wedge was driven in, the side panel wold break before the tenon p...

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    If the tenons on the side pieces were split in the middle of the long dimension and the receiving 'mortise' through the end panels were cut (like a dove tail - narrow in the inside and wide on the outside) the sides could be fitted snugly and then secured by inserting the long wedge into the slot.In the image I found, two wedges were employed horizontally. If you imagine a single wedge inserted vertically you'll get a 'picture' of what I attempted to describe above.Easier written, I suppose, than programmed into a machine!I assume that, if I had access to a CNC machine, I could cut the through mortises precisely so the wedged side was so many sixteenths wider than the other side with the required angle such that, once the wedge was driven in, the side panel wold break before the tenon pulled loose

    OK, I see what you were suggesting.I was thinking that the CNC machine could cut tapered slots for the side rails - maybe 2-4 degrees) - and the tenons on the rail ends could be slotted to accept a wedge that would lock the tenon into the side piece.Disassembly would not be as easy or 'tool less,' of course. Getting the wedge out - well, that would require skill and patience. Then again, I've had a couple Bunk Beds in my time. I bought them, assembled them, sold them and watched the buyers take them apart and home!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on JON-A-TRON's instructable Flip-Top CNC Table7 months ago
    Flip-Top CNC Table

    That was my first thought. Admittedly, I've no access to a CNC Machine capable of handling a 4x8 sheet of plywood - thought eh Baltic Birch comes five foot wide (&sq) as I recall. I was thinking that, if the depth of the surface was equal or less than the height of the table structure, a simple panel could be used for the top (perhaps a torsion box panel to keep it light and strong) such that it stored in a track behind the table. And, if one were to insist upon something complex and creative, the CNC support might be designed to rise up when in use and lower itself when a simple bench top was needed.The problem with the machine/flat surface approach is the nature of a Flat Surface and their inevitable attraction to all things not otherwise fastened down in the shop.From my perspect...

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    That was my first thought. Admittedly, I've no access to a CNC Machine capable of handling a 4x8 sheet of plywood - thought eh Baltic Birch comes five foot wide (&sq) as I recall. I was thinking that, if the depth of the surface was equal or less than the height of the table structure, a simple panel could be used for the top (perhaps a torsion box panel to keep it light and strong) such that it stored in a track behind the table. And, if one were to insist upon something complex and creative, the CNC support might be designed to rise up when in use and lower itself when a simple bench top was needed.The problem with the machine/flat surface approach is the nature of a Flat Surface and their inevitable attraction to all things not otherwise fastened down in the shop.From my perspective, the investment in the CNC would demand it be protected as well as accessible (for tooling changes, adjustments, and such) at a comfortable level. In my case, it would likely prove to be the most expensive tool I ever bought for my shop and might warrant a room of it own ;)

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on GizmoGuy347's instructable Pellet Fed Rocket Stove7 months ago
    Pellet Fed Rocket Stove

    Impressive build. Thank you for sharing.I think you had better put a cover plate on that duplex outlet lest someone from the Canadian Fire Department sees this page and turns you in for maintaining an electrical fire hazard. ;)What is that can thing (w/?-mark)?Please show the 'chimney' - where does it go? (exit the room?)I did not find a video on this page. I, too, would like to see drawings and views of front, sides, back.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Born_to_build's instructable Adjustable Solar Panel Mount7 months ago
    Adjustable Solar Panel Mount

    I have a couple of old HFT Panels to install and appreciated hearing about the 'balance point' here. Essentially, reading your presentation and the comments got me off the dime!Lucky me - a neighbor has a 4" steel pole he dug up (concrete and all) which is mine for the taking - off to a great start!Thanks

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  • Tubing Roller-Bender From Scratch

    " It broke the first time I used it"I missed that bit - I suspect I was overly impressed by the half-inch stock chosen!I always save my receipts and have no hesitation to return any defective item - then, again, I've a HFT outlet close by. I returned some masking tape last week - exchange for a 'fresh roll' that came in different packaging. I suspect the stuff I bought was from another vendor and they'd had complaints about it - and, so, switched.I looked on You Tube and found several folks using the HFT device with varying levels of success - including two instances where they adapted a hand-held pipe threader to replace the 'ship's wheel' that comes with the tubing bender.and a hydraulic jack to eliminate the manual pressure screw!Given the device provides the basic geometry...

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    " It broke the first time I used it"I missed that bit - I suspect I was overly impressed by the half-inch stock chosen!I always save my receipts and have no hesitation to return any defective item - then, again, I've a HFT outlet close by. I returned some masking tape last week - exchange for a 'fresh roll' that came in different packaging. I suspect the stuff I bought was from another vendor and they'd had complaints about it - and, so, switched.I looked on You Tube and found several folks using the HFT device with varying levels of success - including two instances where they adapted a hand-held pipe threader to replace the 'ship's wheel' that comes with the tubing bender.and a hydraulic jack to eliminate the manual pressure screw!Given the device provides the basic geometry and a template, it would seem worth the money as a 'starter.' The dies were said to be less than ideal and 'packing sand' in the material was suggested in one instance (or two). Some initial 'slop' was removed with a washer, etc.If one is intent upon completing a one-off or a first project, it would seem to be worth trying one out - if returns wee but a short drive, of course.If, on the other hand, one is intent upon manufacturing - well, then the investment in a more robust and dependable solution would be justified.I was not taking 'a shot,' just offering a perspective from one absent your skills and equipment with no need to bend anything at the moment ;)

    Then, again, for the (less than the) price if the 1/2" aluminum plate, there is HFT.https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736....With a 25% Off coupon $135 Plus Tax, Or, if in a hurry, use the 20% off coupon and get one for $144 Plus Tax.

    Ten, again, for the (less than the) price if the 1/2" aluminum plate, there is HFT.https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736....With a 25% Off coupon $135 Plus Tax, Or, if in a hurry, use the 20% off coupon and get one for $144 Plus Tax.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Born_to_build's instructable Adjustable Solar Panel Mount7 months ago
    Adjustable Solar Panel Mount

    BTW, if you do this again, look for a steel tube for a mount! A bit tougher to drill into and such, but stronger, longer lasting than wood and less susceptible to most termites ;)If you find a section with and ID = the OD of the main mast, you can fashion a sleeve that will allow mounting the tilt mechanism such that it can be rotated about the main mast and (with a set screw) fixed in one position, then another as the season demands.

    Fastest way too get the answer to such questions might be to 'Google' it! e.g. "Autodesk." in the instant case. As has been pointed out, had you 'Googled" the string "Autodesk Instructables," you might have found this six-year old post (as I just did)" Instructables Joins Autodeskhttps://www.instructables.com/community/Instructables-Joins-Autodesk/Aug 1, 2011 - Instructables Joins Autodesk. The Instructables community is incredible: you build, bake, and create amazing things, then share your projects and ideas with the world. I think it's great when someone builds a project using instructions from our site, but it's even more amazing when we inspire someone to ...

    If you were to cross a section of 4x4 (half lap jointed perhaps) with another 4x4 forming a cross with one arm longer than the other, you could shift the pivot point to the dead center of your panels.Note the bracing is over the arm on the left and under on the right (panel side).This would preserve access to the top of your pole for your next (wind) project as well as acheiving the position of the pivot point recomened here.

    Most of the Bar B Que rotisserie motors I have sen at run on household AC. Moreover, they are not able to reverse the direction of rotation.

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  • Password Manager, Typer, Macro, Payload ... All in ONE!

    "I ended up going with a trackball for my design -- Still need to figure out a case" Hey, why not build the device into a wireless trackball mouse?Then, when you tell people "We need to log into this application," and they respond with "What, have you a mouse in your pocket?" You can simply say, "Well, yes, as a matter of fact I do."There would be/should be extra space inside the mouse for something as small as those shown here - and possibly 'then some.'

    Why not store the Pordtypin password in the cloud? Then design the Pordtypin SW to wait for that input before unlocking itself?

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on bryans workshop's instructable Built-in Kitchen Shelves! 7 months ago
    Built-in Kitchen Shelves!

    One can essentially create a large cabinet in this manner - look for a suitable cabinet door at the thrift shop (Habitat ReStore?) or two if you can find a matching pair. The doors from tall cabinets may well come with the cup hinges installed - making fastening to a stud a snap. All you need find is one as wide as 16" or so. If you frame the opening with 3/4 material (a 'face frame') you will gain another ten percent of shelf space (depth) in the process.

    "for all of our books"This approach would not serve for shelving books as the "shelves" are bur 3.5 inches deep. If you have th room to add to the thickness of a wall such that the result is about ten inches deep . . .

    "That it's a load bearing wall will have no bearing" is clever and almost poetry. As long as the studs are left in place, of course is the necessary caveat. Should the homeowner desire a wider shelf and cut a stud to provide that width, jacks and header will be required.

    I've found that, a half-inch diameter disc magnet, son the 'catch' end of your tape measure can serve as an effective 'stud fastener finder.' The tape is extended a foot or so and the magnet is slid along the wall until it 'deflects' or 'grabs' a nail or screw. Once that fastener is located, repeat along that line about 14->16" to the right of that fastener as studs should be 16" O.C. After each stud is 'discovered' and marked, repeat vertically from each located fastener attempting to locate three fasteners (vertically) for each stud so you can draw a vertical line between the marks to 'get a visual' and plumb line for each stud you've found.If there is a switch or duplex electrical outlet, you begin your first 'search' to the left and right of the outlet as they are alm...

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    I've found that, a half-inch diameter disc magnet, son the 'catch' end of your tape measure can serve as an effective 'stud fastener finder.' The tape is extended a foot or so and the magnet is slid along the wall until it 'deflects' or 'grabs' a nail or screw. Once that fastener is located, repeat along that line about 14->16" to the right of that fastener as studs should be 16" O.C. After each stud is 'discovered' and marked, repeat vertically from each located fastener attempting to locate three fasteners (vertically) for each stud so you can draw a vertical line between the marks to 'get a visual' and plumb line for each stud you've found.If there is a switch or duplex electrical outlet, you begin your first 'search' to the left and right of the outlet as they are almost always fastened to a stud (new construction) making it easier to locate your first stud.

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  • Benches and Tables Built As Stressed Skin Panels

    Very impressive and creative use of the construction techniques. Kudos to the upholsterer as well! "I have also used strips of the same 1/4" plywood used for the skin, as ribs glued in place"I built a 30-inch x 78-inch x 1.25-inch shelf years ago using the ribs. However, I created a lattice with the ribs (notching appropriately at the intersections) after a design I saw called Torsion Box construction. It was extremely light weight - I used .125-inch philippine mahogany 'door skins' over ribs cut from ordinary two by fours and spaced (as I recall) about 4-inches on center in each direction with the edges of thicker ribs notched appropriately to fit (and glue) the ends of the internal ribs.I appreciate the flexible router guide - never heard of it before! If you have not l...

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    Very impressive and creative use of the construction techniques. Kudos to the upholsterer as well! "I have also used strips of the same 1/4" plywood used for the skin, as ribs glued in place"I built a 30-inch x 78-inch x 1.25-inch shelf years ago using the ribs. However, I created a lattice with the ribs (notching appropriately at the intersections) after a design I saw called Torsion Box construction. It was extremely light weight - I used .125-inch philippine mahogany 'door skins' over ribs cut from ordinary two by fours and spaced (as I recall) about 4-inches on center in each direction with the edges of thicker ribs notched appropriately to fit (and glue) the ends of the internal ribs.I appreciate the flexible router guide - never heard of it before! If you have not listed a source - please add it.

    "seems to work on just about anything is (in UK at least)"Well then, let's not bring those items to the US! ;)$55/tube! https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search...

    "I still have the cut out"Well, then, fill the edge and make an aluminum-skinned occasionaal table!

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  • charlessenf-gm made the instructable Three Clamps Racks From Scraps8 months ago
    Three Clamps Racks From Scraps

    Hey, I invented this years ago!All joking aside, I like the work you did. I primarily use HFT clamps (so I can have more clamps for the money) and built my first 'rack' as a shipping container when I moved from Florida - ten dismantled and reassembled it to serve as a wall rack. I used a router and indexing jig to cut the uniform slots for the bars and made the slots deeper do I could store the clamps 'face in' or 'face out.'I do not have design software, but wish I did as the ULTIMATE design would employ a single sheet of steel cut, bent/folded to accommodate the clamp bars and the general shape of the fixed jaws such that the protruding 'pads' have a depression to rest into. -------____| with the 'rear' of the metal folded down to serve as an attachment 'plate' used to fasten the ...

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    Hey, I invented this years ago!All joking aside, I like the work you did. I primarily use HFT clamps (so I can have more clamps for the money) and built my first 'rack' as a shipping container when I moved from Florida - ten dismantled and reassembled it to serve as a wall rack. I used a router and indexing jig to cut the uniform slots for the bars and made the slots deeper do I could store the clamps 'face in' or 'face out.'I do not have design software, but wish I did as the ULTIMATE design would employ a single sheet of steel cut, bent/folded to accommodate the clamp bars and the general shape of the fixed jaws such that the protruding 'pads' have a depression to rest into. -------____| with the 'rear' of the metal folded down to serve as an attachment 'plate' used to fasten the rack to your wall (or inside of your cabinet).Manufacturing this Bulletproof Bar Clamp Rack couldn't be simpler! Using rolls of steel stock, it can be cut and formed much as is done with aluminum 'seamless gutters' and 'cut to length' for sale as 6,12.15. or twenty "Bulletproof Bar Clamp Racks." Stainless steel versions? Powder-coated racks - got an oven?All I want is 1% of your sales!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on OrenLederman's instructable Busy Cube #1 - Simple Switch8 months ago
    Busy Cube #1 - Simple Switch

    Nice job!However, given the ample room in the box and that a DPDT (1/0/1) switch is the same size . . . hmmm maybe it could do more! Maybe add another RED LED such that he could make it glow red or white (or green, or yellow). Or add a buzzer and let there be light or sound? With four AA's in the bottom, you could tap off 1.5, 3.0, 4.5 or six volts to operate outputs (LED, Buzzer) that require different voltages - maybe a small motor with an offset weight in its shaft to make the little box vibrate when activated.It is as easy to cut plexiglass as wood, so maybe the next box could allow him to see the components and light them up as well.When I was fifteen, I bought my Dad a small transistor radio (long before the digital stuff) for Christmas. I wired a micro-switch into the wrappings ...

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    Nice job!However, given the ample room in the box and that a DPDT (1/0/1) switch is the same size . . . hmmm maybe it could do more! Maybe add another RED LED such that he could make it glow red or white (or green, or yellow). Or add a buzzer and let there be light or sound? With four AA's in the bottom, you could tap off 1.5, 3.0, 4.5 or six volts to operate outputs (LED, Buzzer) that require different voltages - maybe a small motor with an offset weight in its shaft to make the little box vibrate when activated.It is as easy to cut plexiglass as wood, so maybe the next box could allow him to see the components and light them up as well.When I was fifteen, I bought my Dad a small transistor radio (long before the digital stuff) for Christmas. I wired a micro-switch into the wrappings so that power was cut when the package was laid on a surface and on as soon as it was picked up, Setting it to a loud station and turning the volume up 'all the way' insured that, it would 'blair' as soon as hi went to pick up his present.You might add a 'tilt switch' to override the DPST setting such that, if he held it 'just so,' it would light - but only if titled to the right, say.

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on ablank's instructable Metal Rotating Tool Stand8 months ago
    Metal Rotating Tool Stand

    "...if my drill bit is dull and it needs sharpening..."Well, the solution would be to replace the drill press, of course ;)

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on sld7531's instructable Wood Burning Lichtenberg Figures8 months ago
    Wood Burning Lichtenberg Figures

    Am I missing something?It appears you show the equipment and finished art, write about the process generally, but neither show nor describe how the burning is actually accomplished. Also "Wood itself will not conduct electricity, so we have to make an insulating solution. Stir and dissolve 1 Tablespoon of baking soda to 1 Cup of warm water."I believe the wood is the insulator and the solution is to create a conducting solution - e.g. your water and Baking Soda solution."Acids and bases also break down to form ions when dissolved in water. Therefore, a solution of an acid or a base conducts electricity. ... Citric acid and acetic acid (in vinegar) are weak acids. Baking soda and ammonia are weak bases."

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  • Chainsaw Mill Build, Use & Tips N Tricks

    https://www.amazon.com/T-SLOT-ALUMINUM-EXTRUSION-S...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1405DO/ref=asc_df_B0...http://www.flexibleautomationsupply.com/T-Slotted-...http://www.mbkitsystems.com/about-us/t-slotted-alu...Or, Google "extruded aluminium with a t-slot profile"Worked for me!

    I would like to see more detail on the 't' connections you made. I wonder if a couple of these [T Slot L-Shape Interior Inside Corner Joint Bracket] would do the job. (Amazon)It seems there are a myriad of joining brackets designed for this extrusion stuff that would allow one to avoid milling the parts. I am thinking that the hardest/strongest of bolts are only as strong as the material they are threaded into.As one supplier notes, the construction of the extrusion and fittings designed for their extrusions maximize the holding strength: "These inclined groove flanks ensure that connections and fasteners take advantage of the controlled elastic deformation, maximizing the strength of each connection." http://www.mbkitsystems.com/about-us/t-slotted-alu...Impressive Instructab...

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    I would like to see more detail on the 't' connections you made. I wonder if a couple of these [T Slot L-Shape Interior Inside Corner Joint Bracket] would do the job. (Amazon)It seems there are a myriad of joining brackets designed for this extrusion stuff that would allow one to avoid milling the parts. I am thinking that the hardest/strongest of bolts are only as strong as the material they are threaded into.As one supplier notes, the construction of the extrusion and fittings designed for their extrusions maximize the holding strength: "These inclined groove flanks ensure that connections and fasteners take advantage of the controlled elastic deformation, maximizing the strength of each connection." http://www.mbkitsystems.com/about-us/t-slotted-alu...Impressive Instructable, even more impressive results.

    I suspect the splitter would add DRAG. On a TS, the weight of the wood is not pressing down on the splitter, just helping prevent the cut from closing up. In the milling operation here, the significant weight of the off-cut is attempting to close the cut and bind the saw chain. Wedges look to be the best solution and a helper to install them as you go - even better!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on diymontreal's instructable Make a Simple Spline Jig8 months ago
    Make a Simple Spline Jig

    Also look at the "Freud Box Joint Cutter Set, Cuts 1/4 In. and 3/8 In. Joints (SBOX8) set. They are marvelous and cut a fixed width (in this case) spline slot you can repeat with confidence allowing you to cut the splines before or after you cut the slots. They also work well for box joints ;) !"

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on diymontreal's instructable Simple Corner Clamp Jig 8 months ago
    Simple Corner Clamp Jig

    You must be sighkick! I saw tour PF w/S Video and took note of your corner clamps last week with an eye to building myself a set. Last night, I sketched them out from memory but did not go further given the lateness of the hour.Having made a set that required two clamps for another project, I thought this design elegant - possibly with the addition of some fine sandpaper along the gripping edges - or thin rubber for clamping finished work. Planning on experimenting with those ideas as my mitre saw's not the most accurate tool in my shop!Thanks for thinking of me!

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  • charlessenf-gm commented on Reimey's instructable Motion Activated Security Yard Sign9 months ago
    Motion Activated Security Yard Sign

    Thanks for the links to adafruit!

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