# dragonator

http://ytec3d.com/
936
Engineer from the Netherlands. Projects in 3D printing, electronics, prop making, sewing and whatever interests me. (If you have a pressing question go to my site and ask it there. I am way more likely to answer it there.)

## Achievements

100+ Comments Earned a bronze medal
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Contest Winner Second Prize in the 3D Printing Contest
Contest Winner Runner Up in the Mind for Design
Contest Winner First Prize in the Time Contest
Contest Winner Second Prize in the Tech Contest
Contest Winner Grand Prize in the UP! Contest
Contest Winner Runner Up in the Robotics Contest
Contest Winner First Prize in the Epilog Contest VII
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Contest Winner First Prize in the Sew Cool Contest
Contest Winner First Prize in the Backyard Contest
Contest Winner Runner Up in the Epilog Challenge V
Contest Winner Runner Up in the Lazy Life Challenge
Contest Winner First Prize in the Space Contest 2016
Contest Winner First Prize in the Lamps & Lighting Contest
Contest Winner Second Prize in the Battery Powered Contest
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• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)4 weeks ago

The file was not really designed to be an easy to use spreadsheet. It was only there to do the math once during the design. It is a bit of a challenge to explain, but here goes:The first sheet is there to calculate the orbital periods of each planets. At the very top are the orbital periods of the planets as they are. I fill in the gears I want to use, and it calculates the speed that comes out of that. Here, z1 and z2 are the numbers that are modified. It gives the total gear ration from the sun (stacked) and the offset compared to what is desired (which is at the top). Green is the one I used.The second sheet is the gear finder. The only 2 values you should modify is A2 and A3. A2 is the desired gear ratio for a double pair of gears. The second number is the offset percentage. The she...

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The file was not really designed to be an easy to use spreadsheet. It was only there to do the math once during the design. It is a bit of a challenge to explain, but here goes:The first sheet is there to calculate the orbital periods of each planets. At the very top are the orbital periods of the planets as they are. I fill in the gears I want to use, and it calculates the speed that comes out of that. Here, z1 and z2 are the numbers that are modified. It gives the total gear ration from the sun (stacked) and the offset compared to what is desired (which is at the top). Green is the one I used.The second sheet is the gear finder. The only 2 values you should modify is A2 and A3. A2 is the desired gear ratio for a double pair of gears. The second number is the offset percentage. The sheet will highlight any combination of 2 gear sets that fits the requirement. This was used to find the combination of gears between each planet. Due to how gears work, each planet needs 2 pairs of gears that have the same sum of teeth. The second sheet only has 3 numbers of teeth, the 4th is calculated from the other numbers. (1+2)-3=4

• dragonator's instructable Pressure Sensitive Floor Mat Sensor's weekly stats: 2 months ago
• 407 views
3 favorites
• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Capacitive Fluid Level Sensor5 months ago

In this type of sensor the fluid is not allowed to touch any conductor. The conductors should be pretty close together, but it is not the goal to have as little fluid as possible in there. It is allowed to have a gap of a centimeter or over. Temperature should influence the reading a lot and needs to be compensated, but I have not used the sensor much since the project I was going to use this one ended up not happening.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)6 months ago

Sadly, I do not. Selling 3D prints takes a lot of time I would rather spend on other things.

Uniform scaling. The arms sometimes need a bit more length to allow the gears to run smoothly.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Fallout AER9 Laser Rifle (3D Printed)6 months ago

Lightly sanding the rods is easiest. Or get different rods. Bearings are 4mm, exactly (withing 0.01mm) and cannot really be sanded.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)7 months ago

If you want something that keeps time over a longer time you would need something like a stepper motor anyway. If you take a stepper and maybe add some extra gears you'd have the clock you wanted. If you are already making a clock you could also take the hour gear and use it as an input for the orrery (with the right gearing to make the orrery move to the hours).I do like the idea of a combined orrery and clock. I might try that one if I have more time.

• Not monitored often, but monitored.5V/2A is USB power supply. That will not be enough for this. There is a beefy 5V power supply in there to make the servo's run. How much current I do not know anymore.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)1 year ago

Bearings should be within a few thousands of a millimeter accurate. The problem is most likely in the shafts. Depending on the type and brand, they might nog be 8mm at most, but just roughly 8mm. If your shafts are 8.05mm, you already will not be able to move the bearings on the shaft. I got accurate brass tubing for mine, and I have never had this problem, but it is possible.One way you could try to fix it is use sandpaper on the shaft to get a few hundreds of a millimeter of the tube. You you have calipers you can see how much the tubes are out of dimension.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)1 year ago

I had the idea to make one, but I think it will be a while before I start that project.

• dragonator's entry Tank Slippers is a winner in the Lazy Life Challenge contest 1 year ago
Winner!
• dragonator's entry Tank Slippers is a finalist in the Lazy Life Challenge contest 1 year ago
Finalist
• dragonator's entry Tank Slippers is a finalist in the Sew Cool Contest contest 1 year ago
Finalist
• dragonator's instructable Tank Slippers's weekly stats: 1 year ago
• 476 views
14 favorites
• dragonator followed 3D-Printing and clocks channel 1 year ago
• dragonator entered Tank Slippers in the Sew Cool Contest contest 1 year ago
• dragonator entered Tank Slippers in the Lazy Life Challenge contest 1 year ago
• dragonator posted an instructable Tank Slippers1 year ago
• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Heat Exchangers and 3D Printing2 years ago

I seem to remember that freezing temperatures are dangerous in a heat exchanger. It does indeed clog up with ice if you have it. From what I have heard in the case of frost is that people put big underground channels to preheat the air to just above freezing. Filtering is always a good idea on both sides. You'd be surprised how much dust is in the air for an exchanger to accumulate.

Hello Vlad,I have seen your progress, even though I have not really found much time to answer.Your tests looks amazing. I had hoped to test myself last winter but I sadly did not have the time. I wanted to make a proper massflow meter so I can do true efficiency testing. Your results seem almost too good to be true. I can understand that you are skeptical. The basic design does have a lot of surface area, so it is not out of the question. One important thing to look at is not just the temperature in, but also the humidity. If you want to make sure the numbers make sense, get all 4 temperatures and humidifies, 2 at each end. From these values you (or I) can derive the efficiency and unbalance of the exchanger.Good luck. I can't wait to see more.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Capacitive Fluid Level Sensor2 years ago

The distance between the outer and the inner tube is what matters. This needs to be as thin as possible. The relative diameters do not matter.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Heat exchangers and 3D printing2 years ago

90mm is the outside diameter. 89mm should fit.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)2 years ago

The moon ring is one of the more fragile parts but I have not ever felt like it would break. The main argument would be that it is a really complicated part to install.In principle the orrery should also work upside down but at this point I do not know if all axes will remain in place with the orrery upside down, but they can be secured in place.It would be an amazing lamp. Bear in mind that the feet will need to be glued in place or replaced is mounted upside down.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)2 years ago

Not exactly lying around, but I do have them yes. The module on most of the gears is 1. The big ring and the tiny gear on the moon have a module of 1.25 to make the scale work out. If you need anything more let me know.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Capacitive Fluid Level Sensor2 years ago

I do not really understand the question. The way I built my tube can be scaled indefinitely.

• I mostly print in PLA

• dragonator commented on emilyvanleemput's instructable Paper Timeturner necklace2 years ago

Congratulations on winning first prize. I think it is well deserved

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)2 years ago

Thanks, good luck in the wizarding contest.

• dragonator's entry Solar System Orrery (3D printed) is a winner in the Space Contest 2016 contest 3 years ago
Winner!
• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Capacitive Fluid Level Sensor3 years ago

The Uno has several pins that match with the schematic in step 10. These are the pins that you can connect to the Uno. These pins are A5, A4, D7 and D8. Also you will need to connect the 5V and the ground. The crystal and programming header are on a normal uno, so you won't need to add those.

• dragonator's entry Solar System Orrery (3D printed) is a finalist in the Space Contest 2016 contest 3 years ago
Finalist
• dragonator commented on emilyvanleemput's instructable Paper Timeturner Necklace3 years ago

When I saw the first pictures, I did not imagine this thing to be made of paper. It looks like it is made from something more like wood. I never thought of this way to make stuff by hand. It may take time, but the end result is amazing and can be made by without any special tools. There is a 3D printing technique like it called LOM, if you are ever interested to see.If you are worried at it's strength, there might be something you could try especially with paper. You could try and impregnate the paper with a watery super glue (CA). I used it myself to impregnate gypsum parts to make them stronger. The super glue should soak into any paper part and set within an hour. After that, the part should be an order of magnitude stronger. In the Netherlands there is "Bison seconde lijm"...

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When I saw the first pictures, I did not imagine this thing to be made of paper. It looks like it is made from something more like wood. I never thought of this way to make stuff by hand. It may take time, but the end result is amazing and can be made by without any special tools. There is a 3D printing technique like it called LOM, if you are ever interested to see.If you are worried at it's strength, there might be something you could try especially with paper. You could try and impregnate the paper with a watery super glue (CA). I used it myself to impregnate gypsum parts to make them stronger. The super glue should soak into any paper part and set within an hour. After that, the part should be an order of magnitude stronger. In the Netherlands there is "Bison seconde lijm" which is really strong and works well for gypsum. You can get it in any home improvement store there. But beware to do it in a ventilated area without breathing the fumes. CA fumes are quite nasty. I know this from experience.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

I have had little problem with this size tubing, but I will remember that when it is more critical or when I need to bend bigger tubes. Thanks.

• Well it is mostly 2 normal sized servo's and 2 micro sized servo's, a few led's and a laser diode. I also used a joystick module. All of those don't have to be expensive. You can get decent servo's for 5 euros each. All other parts mentioned are under 1-2 euros.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

I don't know how much use it will be, it is quite chaotic, but I added it as an attachment to Step 1.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

I don't do thingiverse anymore. Short version is that I lost all of my goodwill toward Stratasys and Makerbot, and stopped using it.

That is a problem I did not solve. The 'easiest' way of doing it would be assembling the planets as it is right now, but sadly you cannot slide the planets in their current position.

I don't think I myself could make this a kit for an interesting price. I charge somewhere between 5 and 10 euros per hour for 3D printing, and printing takes at least 10 hours. Other materials come to roughly 20-30 euros. Think around 100 euros, but that is from the top of my head.Classroom might be a bit challenging, but die-hard hobbyist should be fine.

I would like to have made it with the right scale and distance planets, but I am afraid that both my 3D printer AND my house are not big enough for that. Even with the examples I have seen I myself have a hard time grasping just what the scale really is.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

You can upscale any model before slicing, but there are bearing holes and shaft bores that need to be more or less what they are now. If you want to scale it up much (think more than 5%) you will need to modify the parts so that they themselves are bigger but the bores and bearing holes aren't.I still have the source files available and can share them if you have solidworks. I can share Step files if you have a program that can handle them. If you don't have this software and still need it up-scaled, I might be able to do it, but it might take a while.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

I made the paper template. It provides more accuracy than the orrery requires. I tried making a pipe bender but after I discovered 3mm pipe can still be bent by hand without collapsing I ditched the idea.

Making one out of legos is way more complicated than 3D printing one. Lego gives less options for the used gears. You have my respect. I too did the gears by hand first, but that took forever and at some point I was completely done with it. The excel sheet is not perfect but it only took me an hour, so it was totally worth it.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

I did consider painting the planets but getting them to look good would have been difficult with my tools. Instead I printed the planets in Bronzefill and polished them. This gives a different look, one that I am quite pleased with.I am curious to see what you will come up with. If you need any more information you can always ask.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Solar System Orrery (3D printed)3 years ago

I did. It is the easiest way to get bronzefill to shine so I designed and made a small motorized glass jar with screws. It is not the fastest but it does work.

• dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Hand in hand clock3 years ago

The cap goes from 5V to ground and cancels the noise of the stepper motor. Closer to the stepper motor driver is better.

• Hardware wise not much. Both are powder and inkjet printers, both use the HP C6602A and both are decent, but more there to prove a point an be useful as a stepping stone. Both are at this point no longer supported.If you want to start a 3D thing as a hobby, I advice against powder. It is difficult, messy and has very limited uses. Start with FDM or DLP.